Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: dlancast on September 21, 2021, 11:38:11 pm
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Dear Folks,
Well, I finally got my winter project, a kit of the famous clipper ship "Cutty Sark". Kit manufacture is Artsentia Latina and I believe the scale is 1/86. She will be a static plank on bulkhead model. Approx 4ft long and 3-1/2ft tall. As with any kit, there will be some inaccuracies, but due to the enormous amount of information on this ship, plus, she is still alive today, I should be able to do a fair rendering of her in my model. Yes, I have built clippers before, its a huge task, but the kind of challenge that I love in this hobby. As soon as I get my shop in order for the build to start, I will send pictures. I predict this build will take me about one year to complete. Hope you folks don't get bored with me. Cheers to all and trust all is well. Dennis
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Dennis,Great and look forward to this build as with all your others.
Regards,
Rich
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Well, the fun begins. Laser cut bulkheads are very precise, so makes for a good base to start. As with every single planked hull, I find the spacing between the bulkheads are a bit too far apart. So, I will be filling in the spaces with balsa wood before fairing the hull true. This will make for a nice solid base to lay the planks. i was pleased to discover that the masts rake looks accurate at 86 and 87 degs. Dennis
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I picked up a used copy of this great book.... The Cutty Sark, The ship and a model, by C. Nepean Longridge. Two volumes in 1933, combined and published in 1975. Very good and very accurate. Lots of pics and plates, line drawings from Underhill, etc. It will be my main ref. Dennis
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His sister book on HMS Victory is definitely worth reading if ever contemplating a build O0
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Subdecks are now mounted and glued. Interesting way to do it. Bulkheads were slipped into slots on keelson without glue. The subdecks were then nailed on, which secured the bulkheads, while maintaining squareness and proper alignment. Then glue was added to all the seams which then locked in the entire unit. Very strong and true, as it should be prior to any planking. Of course, I will be deviating from procedure and filling in the spaces between bulkheads with 10x13mm strips of balsa wood, which will be faired and provide a good, solid foundation for planking. Cheers, Dennis
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Balsa filler strips now going in. Dennis
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My school (Training Ship HMS Worcester) owned Cutty Sark and she was moored close to us and we used her for training purposes. We manned her through WW2 with a skeleton crew. The rest of the school evacuated to “Footscray” place until the end of the war. Later she went from Worcester up to Greenwich.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/29/6B5576F2-EFE0-4735-B1A4-246CDEAD9433.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2TLl)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/29/E8C45189-1346-4704-B418-40EDB370B774.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2gCn)
Jerry C.
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Tks for sharing that Jerry. Is that HMS Victory moored next to the Cutty Sark? What an experience to remember. Dennis
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No, that’s HMS Worcester 11, moored off Greenhithe Kent, my training ship and home for three years from fourteen. An excellent preparation for my time at sea. I joined Worcester 111 in 64. Tough but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.
Jerry C.
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Longridge’s book is an excellent guide and the model is on display in the Glasgow museum of transport. The detail is excellent and fills in the gaps left by kits.
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Just so you dear folks can know that I'm not slacking here. Filler sticks take time. Too many projects, too little time. But am getting there. Take care, Dennis
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Finally, all the wood sticks are glued in. Gee, I now have a solid hull to fair. That will hopefully start tomorrow. There is a method to my madness, as I will have a nice base on which to lay my planks. Things will begin to move once that planking starts. Take care all, Dennis
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Deck planking will go down before hull planking, so I have started with the poop deck. My technique is to cut individual planks to length and then lay down in standard stagger formation. For caulking at this scale, I use lead pencil and scribe along the edge of each plank as I go. I decided to take the extra step and actually wood peg my planks with the tip of a toothpick which is inserted into a pre-drilled hole with some fast glue and then snip off the excess and sand smooth. Of note, the Cutty Sark deck planks only had one peg per plank confirmed. And so it goes. Dennis
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Dear Folks, I know this is off subject, but I just wanted to toot my horn a bit. Over a five year period, I built 5 U.S. WW2 Aircraft Carriers. Because I am running out of space in my home for all these models, a good friend suggested that I donate those models to the U.S. Navy and so I contacted the Commanding Officer of NAS Whidbey Island which is relatively close by. This base serves several Navy Carriers. I was contacted several months ago, one of the officers came to my home and saw the collection and said that the Navy is interested but that it would take maybe a year to get approval. Well, after many months, I was finally given the go ahead to bring the models to the base just the other day. I was totally blown away by the attention and graciousness of the officers I met. The skipper was most kind and now my models are displayed in prominent locations on the base. Its possible that they will go on tour throughout the U.S. by the Navy Historical Division. I will attempt to post a couple of pics of the event. Thanks for listening. Dennis Oh... yes, I served in the U.S. Navy from 65 to 69 and served aboard the USS Ranger CVA-61 and also served in country Vietnam just at the end of the major Tet offensive.
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Dennis,
A fitting recognition by US Service personnel with all your modelling skills, well done.
Next one?
Regards,
Rich
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The Forrest for the Trees.... I'll bet the toothpick manufacturers never thought their product would be used like this instead of olives. {-)
Wood pegs are in on the poop deck. Moving onto the waterways on the maindeck and deck planking. Dennis
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Main deck has now been planked and wood pegging process has started. Slow and steady. Drill hole, put glue on end of toothpick, stick in hole..... Dennis
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Deck planking is finished and treenailed. Waterways are painted grey, as they were concrete on the real ship. I have started the hull planking with the port side deck level. Dennis
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Hull planking continues. 2x5mm Sapelle planking is very thick and strong. I now understand why the kit manufactures felt that they could space the frames as wide as they did. I still like my method of filling the space between with balsa. gives a nice firm platform to lay and glue the planks, plus, gives a good foundation to pin the planks down with very little nailing and hole drilling. I am working on strake level four at the moment. Takes time, but I sure enjoy the process. Trust you folks are all well. Dennis
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Plank level five. Dennis
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Great progress Dennis, do you have any issue with the foaming of the Gorilla glue, or just wipe the excess away immediately? .... Derek
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Tks David, i have used Gorilla Wood Glue that has the non-foaming formula for some time now. Works as good as or better than normal construction white wood glue. Works for me and is very, very strong. Dennis
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Just installed plank number eight on both sides of hull. Been working on the two bulwark pieces that will be installed as soon as the hull is planked. Adding detail to the "freeing ports" by installing a hinge pin (32 ga) at the top of the port and then fashioning two hinges from some brass tape I have. When painted black it will look fine. Dennis
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Stern counter is "wooded in" and wood pegs inserted. Makes for a nice beard :} . Hull planks are at number 10 both sides. Dennis
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Just installed hull plank level sixteen on both sides. Have been working on the bulworks for both sides. I redid the freeing port covers as they actually rest on the outside of the hull with overlap, so had to build those to fit and re-hinge. The ports are designed to freely open to release water from the deck. They can be lashed and secured from inside if needed. Mine will all be in the closed position. Also added re-enforcement strips top and bottom of bulworks and added stations as well. Before I mount them, the hull will have to be finished planking and I still need to add protection bars on each port on the inside. That's it so far. Dennis
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Dear Folks, I have a question to all you naval historians who know the history of the clipper "Cutty Sark". It has been my goal to build her as accurately as I can, knowing that many kit manufacturers can in-accurate in some areas. I started with Longridges book "The Cutty Sark", that has plans drawn by Underhill. Longridge built a model of the Cutty Sark which is on display in the London Science Museum to this day, or so I have been told. He built the model in the 1930's and I just assumed that his model reflects Underhill's drawings. I also understand that the original drawings for the Cutty Sark were lost and so, have been redrawn at some date. Of course, right away, I noticed distinct differences in the kit drawings and Underhills. So, I contacted the Royal Museum in Greenwich and they provided me with a set of line drawings done my Campbell. I just received them today and they reflect almost exactly with the plans from the kit manufacturer. Now I am confused as to who is right. I know that the Cutty Sark went through some modifications over her lifetime. My desire is to build my model to reflect how she appeared in 1870. So, as it is now, I am leaning towards using Campbell's plans. I haven't checked the sail plan and rigging yet, but will do the same vetting when that time comes. Thank you for any help you can provide. Best regards, Dennis
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Hull is finally planked. Now comes the fairing process. Dennis
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Denis , Fantastic work
I will go through some of the material I have, but I am sure others here on Mayhem may also be able to help
Keep going with the great work
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Tks Phil, do appreciate you taking the time. Regards, Dennis
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Balsa filler paste has been applied to the hull, prep for final fairing. Dennis
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After sanding an fairing the hull, I have started installing the bulwarks support struts. Each angled strut is then supported with a thin wire that is inserted through the outside of the bulwark and fast glued to the strut. Struts will be painted grey when done. 27 in all. Its amazing how much support these struts give to the bulwarks on the model, similar to the real ship I suppose. Detail work and more to come. Cheers, Dennis
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Lower cap rails installed and pegged. Dennis
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Hull is faired, Stem, Keelson, and stern post installed. Copper plating the hull will begin soon. Dennis
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Foredeck planking installed and pegged. Trim added. Next is cap rail. Dennis
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Main cap rail is in. Started installing cap rail stancions, which will go all the way around cap rail. Then its the upper cap rail to finish rail. Very time consuming, but I sure enjoy it. :-) Cheers, Dennis
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Cap rail stanchions are all installed. I need to trim each in-situ, to narrow the tops as on the real ship (all 116). Next is the top cap rail install. Cheers. Dennis
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Upper cap rail is installed, as are all cap rail embellishments. Wishing all of you fine folks a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Be safe. Cheers.... Dennis
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mounted some details today. Stem supports and one scupper or mooring port (3 to go). Dennis
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Installed knee of head and head rails and lower rub rails. Happy New Year to all! %% Dennis
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Color is now going on the hull. Ships name and embellishments. The wonder of photo-etch. Dennis
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Looking great!
I'm really tempted to get her built myself at some point.
What scale is it?
Regards
Tom
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Tks Tom, I believe it is 1:84. Have really enjoyed the process. A model that i Have always wanted to build. I would encourage you to do it.
Dennis
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Oops... it is 1:86 scale.
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Hi great it will look nicely next to my HMS Victory which is 1:84 ;)
Better get saving started ;)
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Beautiful... could you post a pic of your Victory? That is one I've got on my list. Dennis
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No problem, in fa t I have separate build diary here https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67607.0.html
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Beautiful work Tom. You will do great building a Cutty Sark. Dennis
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name and scroll work installed on stern (photo-etch). Pintles and gudgeons mounted on stern post and rudder. Will start applying copper plates on bottom of hull tomorrow. I'll be doing this for about a month. Dennis
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Looking good Dennis!
What form does the copper plates come in the kit?
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Normal photo-etch, a bit thicker that I am used to seeing. Comes in a flat sheet.... snip out and bend to fit on application. I used fast glue in spots (ends and middle). Dennis
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Coppering begins. I prefer to start with the rudder and sternpost, then do the keel before starting the main hull garboard plates. Stem will be last. I am using plates that are 12x6mm. I'm starting with self adhesive tape that has rivets in place. The plates are too large, so I'm having to trim them to fit my dims. The tape lends itself nicely for rudder, sternpost, keel and stem. I will then move to fast gluing individual plates that I have in inventory that do not have rivets, so after application, I will need to depress rivets using a hypo needle that i cut the tip off straight, causing a convex depression in the copper and is the right size for rivet heads. Kinda "xxxxx", but that is how I prefer to do it. This entire process will take a very long time, so please bare with me as I slog through coppering, as all who have done it know...... :(( Dennis
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Slow and steady as she goes. Dennis
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Your making a lovely job of that Dennis :-)) I've never coppered a ship before but I've seen a few done and it takes a lot of patience!
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Thankyou Mark. Coppering is a very laborious job, but I find that I really enjoy getting lost in the process. My mind goes out to sea in tall ships and rests a while. You should give it a try someday. ;) Dennis
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Keel is 3/4 of the way coppered. Quarter inch by quarter inch... slow, plate by plate. This does drive some to drink, but not me %% . Dennis
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Garber plates almost in. Installed waterline strakes. Oh the joy! :-) Dennis
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Plating continues at very slow pace, but what else am I gonna do during this cold winter. I'm working up from the keel, stern to bow as I plate. Proper plating practice on ships involved "Goring Strakes"... I guess, an average of four or five depending on hull shape. I have usually not paid much attention to goring, rather, I would just follow my planking lines as I plated. So I decided to give it a go this time and will soon be starting the first gore strake about at the turn of the bilge. I struck a reference line on each side of the hull to help me begin the process. It will of course involve cutting each plate to fit. I will start with the next run of plates and will take some pics for you as I go.
Cheers... Dennis
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Working on the first goring line. Lots of trimming of plates, etc. Dennis
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more plates..... {:-{ Dennis
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Looking good! ..... how are the frustration tolerance levels holding up? ok2
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Tks Martin, the frustrations are swallowed up in determination. I can easily see an other month in this part and I long to flip the hull and begin deck details. I must not forget to drill my two mounting holes for base supports. Cheers! Dennis
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Dennis that really is looking great mate :-))
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Tku sir. i have been thinking. I want to try a technique on my copper to finish. I want to lightly brush black paint and wipe, to give a antique look. Then I want to brush on a clear, satin finish varnish (two coats) to seal. Has anyone ever tried something like this? Dennis
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I have not checked my victory and sovereign for a while, but, I painted the hull with Humbrol copper enamel to simulate this effect and then as they were going to be immersed in water, coated with a clear seal to prevent them going green, when I did sovereign she started going green not long after putting the first coat on so a coat of copper enamel again and did a couple of clear coats - last time I checked she was still copper coloured, though to be fair she hasn't been in water for a while.
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Rub strakes are installed. One at the waterline, the other, below the waterline. I couldn't find them on the Cutty Sark as she is today, but did find some old pictures showing them on the hull. There were years that her rub strake at the waterline was painted white and then was painted black. I chose to include both of them and paint them black. Campbells plans or Underhill's plans do not show them at all. As I go along on this build, it is understood that the Cutty Sark went through numerous changes through her life. I am trying to depict her as she may have looked in the same year she was launched. 1870. Campbells plans depict that. My choice to add rub strakes. Cheers, Dennis
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I had my first mate help me to take a couple of pictures of my technique for applying copper plates to hull. I first use fine needle nosed twezers to place the plate to the hull after applying CA, then with the twezers closed, I depress the plate against the hull to make contact and then press the point around the surface of the plate to help even things out and also to leave small depressions in the copper that mimic rivets. Then I use my special smoothing tool (a wood dowel with a slant cut into the end) to depress the plate firmly down onto the hull, works for me. A side note, the plates I am using are several years old, left over from another plating job. These plates are blank. I have yet to find blank plates available for sale, What I have found is the right size, but have rivets already depressed and they are much to big for this scale and cannot be rubbed out. I know that if I run out of these old ones, I can use copper self-adheasive tape cut to size.. Dennis
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Coppering is now completed. Took about a month and a half, eight hours a day, 1,650 plates, 6mmx12mm. I ran out of blank plates and finished with self adhesive copper tape, cutting each plate to size. But, after using that tape, I wish I had done the entire hull with it. No glue residue to mess with and holds the copper tight to the hull. Lesson learned. Attached False Keel to bottom. My research says that all the clippers used False Keels. Campbells plans also show same. So, I went ahead and did it. The keel is attached over the copper plated main keel and then varnished. False Keels were sacrificial and protected the main keel and copper when grounding. Replaced when worn out. Ok, on to deck fittings.. finally. Dennis
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Dennis....have you read or researched in how did they sealed the copper plates to the wooden planking...to keep the sea worm >>:-( out?
Could they have used a tar/bituminous type goop?..in addition to nailing?
Derek
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Hi Derek, Yes, tar for sure, but also I read where they used a mat like material that was impregnated with tar and something else that went down under the copper plates to help keep worms out. Here is an excerpt from China Tea Clippers by George Campbell, "The copper plates could be nailed directly to the planking over a tar or pitch coating, or in the best work, over tarred paper or felt about 1/4 in. thick." Great book on this subject and worth having in one's library of ship history. Cheers! Dennis
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superb work :-))
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Working on the Forehatch. Making covering boards, 10mm long with eyebolts. Great fun. :-) Dennis
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Fantastic work :-)) Its a pleasure seeing this ship come together!
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Making up the Deadeyes and wire lanyards to be mounted to the pinrails. Lanyards will be mounted to the backside of the piinrail before attaching to the bulwarks. Then the bottom end of the lanyard will be fixed to the bulwark and if I can do it at this scale, attach a copper plate at the bottom. Belaying pins will be painted and mounted to pinrail, also before mounting. Of note, the dead eyes and lanyards are painted black. The edges around the deadeye will be painted white to simulate the iron collars on the real ship. Scale too small for me to make up metal clamps and bolt to lanyards. This will look fine, I hope. Very tedious work under magnification. Oh the joy! :embarrassed: Dennis
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Main hatch installed.
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Foredeck pinrails about ready to mount to bulwarks. Dennis
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Darn, I better get my terminology correct, sorry about that {:-{ . Attached pic shows the stbd Pin Rail installed. Components starting from the Main Rail, Pin Rail with Dead Eye, stropped (painted white), with the Shank going down and attached at bottom to the Palm that is against the bulwark. The white supports are the Bulwark Support Stanchions. I think that about covers it for terminology, now I feel better %% . Next is to install the Port Pin Rail. Both of these support the Foremast. Also working on the Main Mast Pin Rails. Cheers, Dennis
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Oh forgot, Belaying Pins are in front of the Dead Eyes. D.
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Completed installing the Foremast and Mainmast Pin Rails. Moving on to the Forehatch cover. Dennis
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Been working on the foredeck details. Added the two Catheads and associated anchor release hardware. Added two bits and the windlass actuator assembly, plus ships bell. Also eight belaying pins on curved sections of the aft end of the foredeck. Next will be foredeck railings and stanchions and more bits and ladders, then two "heads". Tip of the berg as they say. :-) Dennis
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More foredeck details installed. Latrines, crews hatch, windless, bitts, belaying pins, capstan , ships bell, railing. Next will be anchor install with associated rigging and support equipment. This will be a long process for sure. Cheers, Dennis
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STBD Anchor is now installed, as are both anchor davits. Dennis
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Port anchor davit installed, as well as, anchor and rigging. Foredeck ladders, anchor chain from winch to chain pipes, plus deck winch. Foremast pinrail is next. Dennis
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Geeze, I thought the deck houses just about put me on my knees. Took over a week to get out, but I think turned out pretty good. Tons of moldings and cutting under magnification. Haven't been glued down yet. Got the foremast and mainmast base rings with eyebolts installed and the foremast pin rail as well. Assembled the bilge pump. Needs cleanup and painting. It will do. Next is the two main mast pin rails and more eyebolts to install on base ring of main. On and on it goes. I love it, tons of detail and so much to do. Keeping this old guy busy.
Cheers. Dennis
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Fantastic work Denis :-))
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Detail work on the Poop Deck is nearing completion with a few more details to complete, then its on to mast making. One shot of the skylight from underneath to get an inside shot.. sri, a bit blurry. Cheers, Dennis
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Helm detail. That is real gold on the wheel face ring. Ships name does appear on the side of the helm box. (font 4 in gold). Emergency steering is installed under box. Wheel is lashed both sides. Next is grating and poop deck hatch. Added poop break rail with buckets.
Dennis
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Stern rails are in. Dennis
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Very nice work. It's a shame about the real ship, they made a terrible mess of displaying it following renovation after the fire.
Colin
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Hi Colon, That is the first negative comment I have seen about the restoration. I view the museum pictures on-line if I have a specific question and have found that some details have changed. I am using Campbells plans as my go-to for some kind of accuracy and it does appear that the kit manufacturer has done the same. I know that the Cutty Sark has changed over the years with different owners. I am attempting to show her as she might have been shortly after her launch. I would love to visit the museum someday, but that is highly unlikely. Cheers, Dennis
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Hi dlancast,
There has been some controversy abuot the restoration.
A link here:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-19598868
Prior to the fire the ship was exhibited in dry dock at Greenwich in a way that you could appreciate her externally from ground level and admire her appearance. I visited her many times. This is no longe possible as she has been raised up so the view has been completely spoiled. Many people think this was a big mistake - including me!
Colin
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Boarding ladder is installed. I made a hinge so that I can place it in storage position or down. I think I like it in the down position myself..
Dennis
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Navigation lights are installed. Installed the figurehead. Casting is not the best in my opinion, but at this scale will suffice. I need to find some horse hair to place in "Nannie's" left hand. Next is ships boats. Dennis
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With regards to the horse hair, have a look for some Sisal as used by plumbers.
Fred
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Tks Fred, I know about sissel.... tks. hahah... oh, I do know Morse code... at least I used to back in my Navy days. O0 dit-dah-dit
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Mounted the navigation lights and the figurehead at last. Also rigged the ships boat davits. Will start planking the ships boats tomorrow. Cheers! Dennis
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oops, sri, I already did that.
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Dennis....
I understand the actual self adhesive copper tiles & plate/strips actual copper thickness is best measurable in uM [microns], however not sure if it is finished with an external Polyurathane or similar surface?
If not, I would expect just the oxygen from the atmosphere would commence oxidation/tarnish ?? :o
Derek
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Dennis....
I understand the actual self adhesive copper tiles & plate/strips actual copper thickness is best measurable in uM [microns], however not sure if it is finished with an external Polyurathane or similar surface?
If not, I would expect just the oxygen from the atmosphere would commence oxidation/tarnish ?? :o
Derek
This would make it more realistic, copper plates used for hull sheathing were never brightly polished but would have a natural tarnished surface. Since they would have been produced in batches at the copper foundries they would vary in colour so the hull would be a patchwork of different shades. The only time they would have a bright copper surface is after a voyage where the action of waves and the water flowing over the surface would wear off the tarnish, still not a polished surface though. Once sitting in harbour the plates would quickly retarnish, when you look at todays preserved ships in dock the visible plating is normally green through corrosion.
The photos show the Cutty Sark's bow in2002 and HMS Gannet at Chatham Historic Dockyard.
Jim
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Tks for the inputs and stunning pictures of the Sark's hull. I have typically left my copper hulls to naturally tarnish over time and after years, they turn just like a copper penny... a dirty brown. Uric acid works well for giving that green patina. This time I went ahead and painted on varnish for the first time to see what it would do. I prefer the shinny look in contrast and know its not realistic. cheers! Dennis
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I mentioned this earlier. Video came up this morning
https://www.facebook.com/groups/111556020262/permalink/10166048515440263/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/111556020262/permalink/10166048515440263/)
Jerry C.
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STBD Lifeboat finished and installed. Using a pot-metal plug, I covered 90% with wood, planked the hull, added seats, gunnels, safety ropes and latches and chocks. Very time consuming, have three more to do, including the capts. gig and a launch. Lots of detail, which is good for me. Dennis
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I have to say this is an incredible build, which I have been following from the beginning. You are to be congratulated, your attention to detail is amazing, sadly my sausage size fingers and a slight touch (well more than slight) of arthritis means my days of detail have passed. Carry on the brilliant work. :-))
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Well sir, thankyou for your kind words. I do have to say that my hands and joints are painful with arithritus and I do find that model making keeps me going. I'm very thankful that I can still do something I enjoy so much at age 77. I would encourage you to not give up the ship just yet. Build on! Cheers Dennis ;)
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Both Lifeboats are installed. When I was mounting the second Lifeboat, I realized that the boat was mounted too close to the edge of the mount supports which would cause the boat to get in the way of the lower main shrouds.. not good. So, I had to break the mounting blocks and reposition both boats to be further inboard on the mount supports. Luckly, i did not break anything and the fix went smoothly.... when does that ever happen? {:-{ Now working on planking the hull for the launch that will be mounted upside down between the Lifeboats. One more boat remains and that is the Capt.'s Gig. Different details. Cheers, Dennis
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All three ships boats installed now over the main cabin. Next is Capt. Gig. Dennis
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Capt. Gig completed and installed with mast and furled sails (silkspan). Foremast is started. Dennis
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That really is fantastic work :-))
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Foremast is coming along. Still have the top to make and install. Mast has not been glued in, but I am very happy that the step for the mast is nicely square and at the proper rake... nice. This is when a ship model starts to come to life, when the masts come in and then the rigging shortly after..... I get very excited at this point of the build. %% Dennis
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Foremast has been installed. Now working on main mast. Dennis
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Mizzen has been installed, all masts are stepped. Added safety chains to rudder in case it falls off at sea. :}2 Now working on the bowsprit and its hardware. I just received Cambells Rigging and Sail plans from the Maritime Museum Greenwich. UK. I believe they are the most accurate for the Cutty Sark. I like to reference when I can and make the necessary changes if possible. I am also using Underhills plans as reference as well. Will soon be into rigging and just can't believe how fast this model is coming together, I thought it would be a three year project, but I'm retired now and have more time. This will slow as our weather begins to warm and I fire up my woodshop and start outside projects. Cheers and have a Blessed Easter. Dennis
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Bowsprit has been mounted and just installed the Gammoning, using 40 links per inch chain. About right for scale.. I'm happy with it. Most of the hardware and blocks have been added to the sprit as well. She is a very long stick. At 68ft on the full size ship, must be something to see up close. Now have to be very careful working around the bow and moving the model, don't want to break that baby. Cheers! Dennis
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The bowsprit is finally what I call "standing rigging in"... running rigging to add much later as the jib sails go in. It will become a real birdsnest of chain and wire. So, the back Goblines of chain, chain (18 links/inch) Martingal Stays, outer/inner Jibbom Guys, Bob-Stays, and Martingale (Dolphin Striker) are all in now. Sri, my photos arn't the greatest. I can now move on to beginning the Lower Shroud rigging on the Foremast. It begins. %% Dennis
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Wow - you have made such difficult work look so easy and its not. That is amazing :-))
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Thankyou Mark. I am humbled by your kind words. Looking at your work, you are a true master of the craft. I have always wanted to build a live steam tug and you did it! It will be a long time before I can attempt a project like that, but you have inspired me. Yes, the hobby indeed has its challenges, but is so rewarding in the end. And so it goes, I am rigging deadeyes onto the foremast shrouds and wouldn't you know it, as I was sizing the shroud above the deadeye, the deadeye decides to pop out.... bummer, you think I could just pop it back in... noooo way, had to cut my sizing and redo... oh well. {:-{ Dennis
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Installation of the Foremast lower shroud begins. My method is to use a wire spacer that sets the proper distance between deadeyes, clip onto the lower deadeye and then clip in the upper deadeye, strop and then run the lanyards and tie off. Dennis
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Dennis I actually think that rigging a ship is far harder than building the hull. I can honestly say that I would not attempt rigging as the intricacy is mind boggling. I've read so many books on the subject but crikey it's tricky. Seizing is an art in itself and I take my hat off to you - looking forward to your updates mate :-)
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Tks Mark, you can do it, your skills show me that. Yes, its tedious and frustrating sometimes and you might turn the room blue at moments. But, I find it to be very comforting and rewarding and actually enjoy this part more than the hull, etc. Cheers sir. Dennis
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A craftsman is only as good as his/her tools. Now that rigging has begun, thought I'd share some of the rigging tools that I have made or acquired over the years. The wood handle tools I made and are of my design, the dental tools I took from my dentist while he was not looking... :embarrassed: .... hahah not seriously, but they did come from my dentist as a gift.. open wide!! {-) .... all in great fun, but one needs help getting into the birds nest of chain and line as a sailing ship of this caliber comes together. Great fun! Dennis
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You’re doing a grand job matey. A long time ago I restored a family heirloom model of Santa Maria. I too blagged a set of dentist’s tools and also bought a fly tying kit off eBay which was a great help. My shoulders have never been the same since! ‘Twas exhausting.
Jerry C.
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The Foremast lower Shrouds are in. Also added is the wood Shear-pole on both sides. I will move down the line, doing the other two masts.
Dennis
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Fore and main lower shrouds in. Next is Mizzen lower shrouds. Dennis
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Mizzen lower shrouds in. Port mizzen shroud pin rail made up and installed. Next is STBD mizzen shroud pin rail and then ratting will begin on all lower shrouds. These old hands are still steady enough to really enjoy the project. Cheers, Dennis ;)
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Ratlin work has begun. Starting with the lower shrouds, mizzen, STBD side. Always pull out my handy diagram for clove hitching as she goes. Never failed me yet. Pretty soon, one can do it without thinking. Try to keep the steps at 6mm for this scale. Side note, all the rigging line supplied by kit is junk. I'm using the good stuff I get now from Syrenshipmodel.company.com. All linen and beautifully made up... all sizes for the model ship builder. I do have a rope walk and used to make my own, but too old to mess with that now. I wax the line proper, though fuzz is minimal.. still do it, as it helps to hold my line in place as I work up the shrouds. And yes, the ends are normally looped and seazed, but I just use the clove hitch. Scale is too small for me to fiddle with the loops. I use fast glue to touch each knot as I go along and then snip the extra when done, taking care not to cut the .... Shroud..... :(( (yes, I have done it and its no fun to fix). I will progress along with all lower shrouds dong the ratting, then move on to installing fairleads. Cheers... Dennis
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Lovely work Dennis - Syren make such great ropes and kits. He must be one of the best in the world at this time O0
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Thankyou Sir.. and I am thankful for this hobby in my golden years. :-)) Be well. Dennis
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Work continues "Ratting Down". All lower shrouds on the STBD side have been completed and am now working down the Port side. I have been studying the issue of "Fairleads" on all lower shrouds. Obvious to provide the running rigging coming down each mast a fair run to each pin rail and subsequent belaying pin. My "go to" reference book is Underhill's "Masting & Rigging the clipper ship & ocean carrier". Plates are provided for all three masts of clippers during the Cutty Sark era. I did an initial mount on the STBD side of the lower shrouds, mounting the smallest deadeyes I had in inventory to the inner side of the lower main shrouds. Each deadeye is whipped and glued in place and should work just fine for its purpose. Same will be done on all lower shrouds. This is new territory for me, as I have not properly rigged a clipper ship with full sails mounted before. I like a challenge..... O0 Dennis
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All Fairleads on lower shrouds are installed. STBD Futtocks installed on mizzen top with deadeyes. Moving up the ladder now. I will probably use wire for ratlines at this point on up as my research indicates this was the practice, plus pictures of the Cutty Sark in her early years show this to be the case. Cheers! Dennis
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Upper Futtock and shrouds started on the Foremast STBD side. Its dizzy up here {:-{ Dennis
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Slow going as ratlins are installed on the Foremast Upper. I chose to make the ratlines from brass wire as I believe metal rods were used on the uppers and royals. This requires first fast gluing the wire to the shroud and then tying each rod to shroud intersect with thread and then paint. Would have been quicker with linen line for ratlines. But, I'm strange that way. O0 Dennis
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Just checked on photos I have of the Cutty Sark taken in 1981 and 2002. The upper ratlines are rope not metal rod. While this is a restoration of the rigging and not original it was as close to the original as they could get from the knowledge they had at the time. I would have doubts about the use of metal rods as hey would be liable to corrosion unless kept well greased which would make them dangerous for climbing also the extra weight woulod not be wanted above the deck requiring extra ballast reducing the commercial load.
Jim
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Thankyou Jim, good points that have convinced me to switch to linen line for all my ratlins. My reference is Nepean Longridge's book "The Cutty Sark" pub. 1975. Photo plates in that book clearly show rod ratlins. No dates on the plates, so I have no idea when the photos were taken. Its a connundrum for sure as the Cutty Sark went through many changes in her long life. I need to relax. O0 Cheers, Dennis
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The STBD side upper shrouds and ratlins are finally in. Switching back to linen line for the ratlins really moved things ahead. Now time to switch sides. Dennis
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Some close up shots of ratlin work. These old hands are still steady as a rock. %% Dennis
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In the past when I have had to tie ratlines I used to clamp the shrounds between 2 short lengths of stripwood the correct width between the ratlines. This kept the shrouds the right distance apart and stopped them pulling inwards when the ratlines are tied and keeps the spacing betweeen the ratlines constant.
Jim
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Oh yes, a proven method to keep things aligned. I just go by eye... pull and tug at the right moment and hope for the best. Some call it "winging it". Each of us has our method that works best. Have never added up or kept track of the number of clove hitches I have tied over the years. Just feels natural now. I love this hobby. Cheers, Dennis
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Just thought I'd share my method for getting the deadeyes spaced correctly. Tool is a sliver of brass with holes drilled on each end and short pins glued in that then insert into the holes of the deadeyes, then clip in place. Works for me. O0 Dennis
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Dennis you have the patience of a saint mate - I just take my hat off to you - this work is incredible :-))
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Thankyou sir, I sure don't know about the saint part, but I can sure turn this room "blue" sometimes %% Dennis
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Upper shrouds and ratins are in. Next is the royals. Gonna have to stand to rig those. :-) Cheers, Dennis
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Working on the STBD Royal Shrouds and Ratlins. Slow work, but getting there. Weather is improving, Spring has sprung and outside work is calling. Model work is now becoming evening work. Build on! :-) Dennis
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I'm still at it, but slower... weather has been so good that outside projects are taking priority. Now on the Port side Royal, standing and ratlin rigging, just finished the main Royal, moving on to the Mizzen to complete. Next will be the forestays. One step at a time. I'm still having fun. O0 Cheers, Dennis
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Have started installing the forestays, beginning with the Mizzen to Main Mast, lower Forestay. The stays were actually wire cable and doubled, then pulled and sized together. Dennis
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Lower and upper forestays going in. Fulcrum principle applies... very strong. Dennis
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Dear Folks, it has been a while since my last post. I have been diagnosed with blood cancer and have just started treatments, with a long stint in the hospital. Just got home two days ago and finally feel strong enough to resume my model making, which is a blessing of its own as its keeps my mind off the trials ahead. I hope to finish this project, but one never knows. Ok, just installed what I call a "Fish Pennet". The Cutty Sark had one and it was used to hoist the anchors to the deck, etc. Working towards the bowsprit forestays next. Dennis
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Wishing you the best and that the treatment is successful. Looking forward to seeing you complete the Cutty Sark and go on to build more in the future.
Jim
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Hi Dennis - good luck with your treatment mate. Our mum is just finished her treatment for exactly the same thing. Its gonna be tough but hang on in their as she's a lot better now :-)
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Bowsprit forestays are in now. Moving aft, to complete main and mizzen upper forestays with associated block and tackle. Yet to start the immense backstay work. Grateful that I can still do my model work. Dennis
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Aye, aye! What's Popeye & Olive up to ??!
Build looks good :-))
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haha... tku sir. I grew up with those two. They always symbolized what true love was all about, in a good way. Cheers! O0 Dennis
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Well, I discovered that before I can install all my backstays, I need to install some of the sails, mainly the Spanker, Staysails and Jibs while I still have room to work with my hands. So, I have started with the Spanker at the Mizzen Mast. Making the necessary booms. The sails are pre-made (to a point)... not bad and close enough for what I want to do. They are pre-sewn, but I have to install all reef points and lines, etc. A bit of fiddling, but I think it will work fine. The sail cloth appears to be what I call "balloon cloth", thin enough to be close to scale and not too bright white, so I won't have to tea stain them. Oh, the fun begins. I want to be creative and have some of the sails furled so as to not hide so much of the model detail. Dennis
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Indeed is good to be able to make progress on a much enjoyed project.
I want to be creative and have some of the sails furled so as to not hide so much of the model detail.
Yep. Viewers will appreciate that. Clippers under full sail are beautiful things but when looking at a model I also want to see and appreciate what all the modeler did in building the ship's structure.
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Dennis lovely job mate - sails - wow I actually think that they are harder to make look realistic than making the ship. Furl then up mate and then everyone can see the beautiful job that you have done. Even furled sails are hard to do which is why so many modellers just leave their ships bare and just show show the spars. What ever you do will be great I'm sure :-))
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Sails on a model are a conundrum for sure. An option for furled sails is to make the sail half the length in depth so that it is not as bulky when furled up or gathered. I'll have to experiment. Cheers, Dennis
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The Spanker sail has been mounted. Now working on running rigging for it. I will be installing Bunt Lines used for furling the sail as well as some chain. Dennis
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The Spanker or "Driver" sail is installed now and completed as best as I can get it. Its all there. I'm trying to give my sails a loose "live" look to them, rather than flat. I will attempt to furl some as I go along. Its almost unbelievable the increase in rigging that is required for sails. I love the challenge. One day at a time. Cheers all... :-)) Dennis
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You really are getting the hang of this model building lark Dan…… :-)) :-)) :-))
A beautiful model has been created..
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Thankyou sir, it kinda gets under your skin. I started building models when I was a kid, so many years ago and I'm still doing it. Will probably be doing it when I take my last breath. Ahhhhh.. but what a way to go. Which leads me to a question that I have been pondering. How many youngsters are building models these days. I get the sense that too many are involved in electronic wizidery and don't have the time or desire to. Are young people doing this now? {:-{ Dennis
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Main mast Trysail going in. Similar rigging, but no lower boom (loose footed). I have chosen to attach the clew to the Port rail, pulling the sail away from the mizzen forestay. The STBD clew sheet line will run loose over the forestay and attach at he STBD pin rail. Dennis
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Eventually a person starts wondering how many miles of rope and cable went in to one of these and other large sailing ships.
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That is a good question sir. Thousands of feet for sure. I'm using up line like crazy just with this model. Dennis
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The Main Mast Trysail is now completely installed. Very similar to the Spanker sail except it is loose footed. Now moving on to the Mizzen Topmast Staysail and Topgallant Staysail. These are smaller triangular sails that are secured to the two stays between the mizzen and main mast, just above the Main Mast Trysail. I use black thread instead of metal hanks to attach the sail to the stay, so that can be a bit fiddily. These sails should go up fairly quickly, I hope. As a side note, I start my chemo sessions in a week and am not sure how I am going to be feeling or if I will even be able to do model work. I hope so, as this does not take much effort and brings great joy. Cheers! ;) Dennis
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As a side note, I start my chemo sessions in a week and am not sure how I am going to be feeling or if I will even be able to do model work. I hope so, as this does not take much effort and brings great joy. Cheers! ;)
Success to you on both counts.
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Beautiful Dennis and best of luck for next week…
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Ok, at first I thought for sure that I had installed the mizzen topmast staysail in backwards. That would be the case according to the kit plan instructions. My main reference is Underhill's plans of the Cutty Sark and I take those plans as Gospel. So according to his plans, I am orientated correctly..... phewww! :embarrassed: I thought I was going to have to rip out the entire sail and do it over again. Can't trust kit plans, ever. That is why I always back up my builds with a library of reference books. Just finished tying off the hanks to the backstay. Dennis
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Underhills plans.
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Wait a minute, the kit instructions ... doesn't that represent the ship during that that one season where that hotshot new Lieutenant had all these ideas for new and better ways to do things than anyone had ever done before?
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{-) for sure! Its all in the details mate! Dennis
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Ok, the mizzen topmast staysail is fully rigged and in place. I just finished attaching the bolt rope to the topgallant staysail and clipped it in place prior to hanking it on to the forestay, etc. Much the same as the other staysail in rigging. It sure is a good thing that the backstays have not been rigged yet, as I would have alot of difficulty in installing those staysails. I will work my way forward to the jibs before any backstay work begins. Then its the yards and I can't even wrap my brain around those. {:-{ %% .... Dennis
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Moving forward on staysail install. I have decided to go ahead at this point and mount the model on a mahogany base I built a number of years ago for a 4ft schooner model that I gave to a friend. It appears to fit the Sark nicely, I just have to fine tune and adjust keel spacing supports, but it will provide a nice solid platform the model really needs for stability as the build progresses. I have also decided to gift my Cutty Sark model to a dear friend who served in the US Navy as a fighter pilot and has been following the build of my model and has visited the Cutty Sark as she is today. My way of saying "thankyou". I now have renewed vigor to complete the model in a timely fashion. I estimate another year is ahead. We will see. Cheers to all. Dennis
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Just finished installing the Main Topmast Staysail. Dennis
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Passing the model to a good friend is a lovely gesture Dennis, but I am not sure that Popeye and Oliveoil should be behaving like that…. :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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I know Footski... there is a real story behind that figure that has always caused me to wonder, but I just don't let my mind go there. Too many sticks and strings to worry about mate. {:-{ Dennis
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Ok, the Staysails are all installed. The Jibs will go in after I finish installing all the backstays. I need to get those backstays in now, as the masts are being pulled out of alignment with all the staysail running rigging forcing the masts to lean forward. I need those forestays at the bow to be nice and tight before installing the Jibs. Its all about geometry, right? Just got the first mizzen backstay on the STBD side installed, there will be four on each side, then I move forward into the "rats nest" of rigging. Yikes! Build on! Dennis
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more. (and no, I don't know where Popeye has his right hand).
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Good grief Dennis, awesome, I would have wrecked it after trying to fit the first mast... O0 let alone the sails........
Brilliant work
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STBD backstays in on the mizzen mast. Boy, what a "xxxxx". Design did not leave much room to gain access to lower deadeyes between bulwarks, rails and coach roof. Snapped off a few and had to re-drill for new lower deadeyes. Very slow and tedious process. Have last two to do on the Port side, then I can move on to the main mast and hopefully have more room to work. Picture a huge giant with big hands working on the rigging of such a massive and great ship as the Cutty Sark. What can I say. :-) Dennis
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Fantastic job Dennis :-)) :-))
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the mizzen backstays are all installed, now working on the main backstays. A dentist friend gifted me a number of his tools of the trade, one of which was a pair of Hemostats which come in very handy for clamping the backstays around the upper deadeye as my blurry picture shows. Oh the fun of it all. O0 Dennis
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Main backstays are just about in now. Boy, cramped quarters caused alot of grief getting those deadeyes in with lanyards. Had to pull and replace about five of the deadeyes because they were too close to the bulwarks to gain access... poor forethought on my part, but got through it. The rigging is intense on this ship and I really haven't gotten into running rigging for square sails.. .yikes! %%
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The rigging is intense on this ship and I really haven't gotten into running rigging for square sails.. .yikes! %%
Isn't that why your next Cutty Sark model will be the alternate history version where the designers saw the wisdom of using the Chinese lug rig. ok2
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Mainmast backstays are all in now. Working on installing the Fairleads. I'm using 1/8" deadeyes for this purpose, first filing in a notch on one side, then grabbing with my trusty hymostat, applying a dab of fast glue to the notch and then holding the deadeye in place on the backside of the stay until it sets, then I strop with black thread to complete the attachment. I've got 14 more to go on these stays. The old hands can still do it. Makes me happy. :-) Dennis
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Bit by bit, it all adds up.
While the rigging can be (is) a bit of a chore, ya gotta admit, the clippers under full sail were beautiful vessels.
Only clipper I ever built was a large plastic model back in the 1970s or maybe early 80s.
Was it Revell who had the Cutty Sark and USS Constitution in both large-medium and rather large sizes, with the rather large size having cabin interiors and some figures?
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Finally, all backstays are installed. Working on the foremast Fairleads for the backstays now, then will be moving on to install all three jibs before beginning yard assembly. At the same time, in the back of my mind, I am designing a case to build to house this model. It will be large at 4ft long, 30 inches high and about 17" wide (inside dims.). I looked at purchasing a prebuilt case and costs were pushing $1,000 U.S. A bit too steep for me to pay and I have the tools and skills to build my own, so I will. I think this model will deserve something special. Cheers! Dennis
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I looked at purchasing a prebuilt case and costs were pushing $1,000 U.S. A bit too steep for me to pay and I have the tools and skills to build my own, so I will. I think this model will deserve something special.
It does, Dennis, all the effort you are putting in to it certainly does deserve shielding from dust, critters, and stray elbows.
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Foremast Staysail is mounted, just have to rig in the clew lines and then its on to the other two jibs. Dennisi
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Unbelievable work Dennisi, yes with your skills build your own case because it will be really worth it for your magnificent work :-))
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Jibsail has just been installed, attaching bolt rope to the flying jib, which is next. Then will start the yards. Have been slowly adding depth markers to the bow using photo-etch roman numerals. Very tedious and slow process. Have the port bow to do as well as the stern. Dennis
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I love this build - You just don't see this level of skill and dedication on rigging very often......amazing :-))
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the Flying Jib has been installed. Now that all three head sails are installed, I can move on to building the yards. I have decided to assembly line all of the yards for the model at one massive go of it, instead of making yards for each mast, installing, etc. I am a believer that practice makes perfect, so the repetitive nature of making all those yards will improve my skills and make for better detail work. I need to give more thought as to how I wish to install the yards, be it starting with the mizzen mast and moving forward or to begin with the foremast lower yard and move aft. Its easy to get boxed in with the rigging if one is not careful. Plans call for the foremast first method. I will also be hanking on each sail to its yard before installing to the mast and then brailing up the sail as needed for better visibility of rigging detail, etc. Much to think about and consider. The fun really begins now folks. Of course all outside braces will be done last, which is logical. ;) Second round of chemo starts on Monday, no clue how I will be feeling, but so far, I can do the job and it keeps my mind off of things. Cheers! Dennis
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Here's wishing you healing and feeling okay.
That bit about getting boxed in is a prime thing which intimidates me about multi-mast sailing ships.
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Thankyou Scott, yes, and it takes some planning and even then, reaching through rigging to attach rigging requires patience and special tools, which I have made some time ago. I don't know about the patience part..... >>:-( Cheers, Dennis
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Starting with the Foremast lower yard. Just about have it assembled, just needs Jackstay, footropes, blocks and finish the stunsail booms and paint. Then 16 more to do. This will take a few months. Its keeping me busy and mind off of things. Cheers, Dennis
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Very impressed with the metal fittings, much more accurate than the rather crude ones in the Billings kit. Should keep you busy for a while as you say. I seem to remember the stunsail booms were called passaree booms I think in Longridge’s book.
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Yes, fittings are not bad, but it appears they shorted me a few, so, some scratch building will be required at some point. interesting name for the sprit booms and logical, since they moved in and out. Speaking of which, there is a complete mechanical device that was used for that purpose that I am not showing on this model. I also had to sort out the fact that some of the booms where on the top of the yards and some hung below. I had to verify the correctness of the kit instructions against books and plans that I have and discovered the kit plans are accurate in this regard. Dennis
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Reef points going in on the foremast lower main course sail. Hole is made in the sail, Knot tied in the thread, a spot of fast glue and in she goes, then cut to length both sides. Also all the jackstays, stirrups and footropes are installed on the foremast lower yard. My dear first mate has volunteered to sew the sail onto the jackstay very soon now, then she will be ready to mount to the mast and using the bunt lines, the sail will be partiallly furled. Dennis
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Foremast lower main course now sewn on to the yard thanks to my dear first mate.. Bonnie O0 Now to attach buntlines and get this baby mounted to the mast. Dennis
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Ok, got the yard and sail mounted, pin and chain attached to the yard crane... the only thing holding it up there for the moment. All four buntlines are installed, but still need to run through blocks on mast and secured at the fife rail. I will attempt to do a partial furl of the sail to see how it looks. At least that is what the plans call for and I like the idea for better visibility of rigging and detail. Full sail can cover up alot of stuff on a model, so I will use judgement as to how to present the sails as we go along. Big step made today and I am very happy. ;) Dennis
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Rigging in the foremast lower course buntlines. Dennis
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Goodness Dennis....
The Main Top-Sails appear bloomed as if caught by a wind or breeze %) [especially with the mirror image] :o
Do you set the sails by a fan, then apply a wash [watered white glue] ?
Derek
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Hi Derek, all sail shaping is being done by hand. The staysails all have bolt ropes glued onto the perimeter of the sail, which helps in shaping. It really was not my intent to have the model depicted with the wind blowing on the sails, but it just kind of worked out that some of them I was able to shape and in the same direction. The foremast main course I am attempting to show being furled, so it will have a curved shape to it. No treatment is being used on the sail fabric. I thought of using a fan and spraying with starch to make the sails bellow, but didn't do it. Its kind of learn as you go sort of thing. This will be my first clipper ship model rigged fully with sails. Its been interesting and very challenging. Dennis
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Ok, the foremast lower course is finally installed. All Braces, Clew lines, Buntlines and Sheets are in. Yard Arm Pendant chain (19 links/inch) are in. I have partially furled the sail to give better visibility. Next is the Lower Fore Topsail, start the entire process over again. Dennis
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Fore topsail yard completed. Sail ready to be hand sown onto the jackstay. Then, its mount and rig. Dennis
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the Fore Lower Topsail yard and sail are now mounted. I just installed the STBD clew sheet line and chain and move on to the port side next. Its getting a bit tight to get to the respective tie points, but special tools do help. Still, the room does turn a bit blue from time to time. %% Dennis Great respect to the engineers and sailors of old.
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Fore lower Topsail braces have been installed. Next is to make the upper Fore Topsail yard. Dennis
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Upper fore topsail Yard is complete and ready for its sail. Dennis
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You know what - One of the hardest things to do in model ship building is making the sails look real. Thats why so many ship builders (me in particular) plan to build either without full masts or make plain spars. You just do not see many ship models that are with the full complement of sails.
I think that sums up this amazing work - beautiful job Dennis.
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Gobsmacked........ :-))
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Well, I sure agree with that and thankyou. 99% of my sailing ship models have been bare spared. A number of years ago, I built a British Cutter with full sail, that would be full gaff main, topsail and jibs. I made the sails out of Silkspan and had my wife sew in the seam lines and reef lines. For the scale, Silkspan was the closest I could get. Usually, the biggest issue with models with sails has been the scale of the cloth used. This kit has pre-sewn sails and I think the material is balloon cloth. At least its close, but still it is too thick. I considered making my own out of silkspan, but could not resist trying the kit sails. They are boarder-line ok, so I am forging ahead. I'm attempting to give them a bit of "life", as if a small breeze was affecting them, rather than just hang there. There are all sorts of techniques one can use to "fill" a model sail, varnish with a fan, etc. But, I'm just doing it on the fly if you will. Works for me. What is amazing me is the huge increase in rigging and I'm still leaving out a few lines as it is. Thanks again for the comments. Cheers... Dennis
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Upper Fore Topsail is sewn on and Buntlines have been installed. Time to mount to the Foremast. Dennis
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Upper fore topsail has been installed. Now have to block down the halyard, add sheet lines, attach clews and secure all four buntlines. Then its on to the Fore Topgallant. Up and up we go. Dennis
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Fore upper topsail STBD braces installed, as is the upper topsail halyard secured. This is becoming a "nest" of running rigging and this is just the foremast sail work. How did the crew ever keep lines straight as to what did what and were?? I'm learning, line by line and still have great respect for the engineering knowledge of the sailors of yesteryear. Next is to do the port braces. Dennis
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Fore upper topsail STBD braces installed, as is the upper topsail halyard secured. This is becoming a "nest" of running rigging and this is just the foremast sail work. How did the crew ever keep lines straight as to what did what and were?? I'm learning, line by line and still have great respect for the engineering knowledge of the sailors of yesteryear. Next is to do the port braces. Dennis
This is why the first jobs of a new sailor was to learn the ropes, they had to be able to put their hands on the correct line every time, even at night and in a storm. As a help the lines were always arranged in the same way, each mast would always have the lines in the same order so once you learned the ropes for one mast you knew where they were for them all. Also line belaying positions were generally standard from one ship to another so a sailor could move from one ship to another and not have to relearn the ropes. Even naval ships used the same line positioning so a sailor could move from a naval ship to a civilian one and vice versa and know where everything was.
Jim
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Thankyou Jim. Sure makes sense to me. I'm doing my best to run the lines where they are supposed to be based on my research books, but I'm afraid it will not be 100% correct. Sure wish I had one of those old sailors of old to be looking over my shoulder. Kit plans are horrible for this part, but i do have some good ref. books and a set of Campbells plans from the museum. Cheers, Dennis
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Foremast Topgallant yard and sail installed. Still need to secure buntlines, halyard, yard supports and braces. One more sail to go for the foremast.
Dennis
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Looking really good, unfortunately too late now but it would have looked even better if you had set the yards at an angle instead of at 90 degrees. Angling the yards would have made it look less static and the change in the angle from the lower to the topmost yards would add interest. It wouldn't have need too much of an angle, maybe around 20 to 30 degrees.
Jim
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Good point Jim, in fact I have induced a slight angle to STBD that slowly increases as you go up. My pics don't show it and its probably too slight. Braces are glued down now, so I won't try to induce more, but maybe give the main yards a bit more. Cheers, Dennis
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Dennis I think that you are going to have to make a really nice display case to keep this beauty in O0
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Thankyou Mark, in fact, I just picked up wood to begin building that case. It will mostly be made from Sapele (a type of African Mahogany) and hopefully will do the model justice. I found a set of instructions on www.modelshipcases.com that should produce a very nice wood case. I'm planning on using plexiglass to save weight. This thing will be huge. Dennis
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Foremast Topgallant braces going in on STBD side Dennis
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OOOps..... upon looking at those pictures I suddenly realized that I made an error in rigging the brace running rigging. The lines should have gone back to just under the mainmast crosstrees, then down to the main spider rail, instead of running it to the pin rail on the STBD bulwark..... yikes! Now I have to rip it out and redo. I'll post the correction later. I thought I had it all thought out. Chemo brain. %% Dennis
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There, that is better. :-) Dennis
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I am in awe of your work and knowledge Dennis. This is an oak and plexiglass case I had made for my Victory some years ago. Hope it helps.
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Ditto
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2022/10/22/526800F4-4941-4B74-8424-76D2F8C137F7.jpg)[/urll
Haven’t posted a pic for over a year. Took some remembering!
Jerry C. (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fqqkp)
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Thankyou Jerry, very nice model of the Victory. Not an easy task to build. Yes, I have purchased similar wood cases in the past. But the costs have always been something I could handle. Not true anymore. I'm seeing prices for the large size I'm looking at now, go from $600 US, to over $1,500 US. I can build a case for under $100 US. Its just a matter of feeling well enough to fire up my shop, I've got every wood tool under the sun, so might as well get crackin. Oh the joy. I've always been a firm believer that every fine ship model needs a case.
Cheers, Dennis
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The picture is of my uncle aged 16 in 1954. He built the model (Santa Maria) in that bed. He had leukaemia and died shortly after completion.
I restored it for my Mother as it was in a sorry state.
I made the display case. Mother still alive at 93 but has dementia. It’s the only thing of her brother she has.
Jerry C.
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Correction, it’s “Golden Hind”. Sorry, just got up.
Jerry C.
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Jerry, a lovely story to go with the model and a cracking case too.
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He also built a half size replica of “Elizabeth Jonas” model in Science Museum London. Plans supplied by Curator who visited my uncle on completion and commended it as museum quality.
I’ve still got it in my garage but it is beyond my physical capabilities to restore.
Jerry C.
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Jerry, a very touching story for me. As I too have Leukemia and am praying that I can finish this model before I pass or the good Lord heals me. Your uncle had wonderful skills and it is comforting to know that this hobby brought some joy for him during a difficult time. I know that my wife will keep all my models, except this one has been donated already. the cycle of life. I have no regrets and I have my Faith. Dennis
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His leukaemia (Hotchkins Disease)killed him and my first baby brother. My mother spent many hours by his bed side. The radiation from the Radium needles in his body damaged his developing foetus beyond survival. Mum didn’t know she was pregnant. He also pioneered chemo. They used Phosgene then. Mum went on to have triplets all healthy. I seem to have inherited a lot from Roy. I can do anything I set my mind to do. It’s called Asperger’s. In my mind, a gift.
I wish you everything you wish for yourself. Be strong.
Jerry C.
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Fore Royal Sail is mounted to its yard and buntlines installed. Next is to rig its halyard and mount to foremast. Dennis
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Fore top royal sail installed, just need to rig the braces and she is done. Dennis
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Lower main yard coming together. Dennis
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Main yard completed. Reef lines going in on Lower Main Sail. Dennis
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Lower main sail and yard going in. Dennis
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The Lower Main sail is installed completely. I chose to show it partially furled due to the large size of the sail. I believe that I'm working towards displaying the model as she begins her voyage to distant shores, releasing sail to a fresh, gentle breeze off her port quarter. Dennis
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Amazing work - really enjoying following your project.
Ralph
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The sails look extremely realistic, not an easy effect to capture on a static model. Excellent!
Colin
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Main lower Topsail is now mounted. Halyard is tied in, buntlines and more to go before completely installed. But its up there. ;) Dennis
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incredible work :-)
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A couple of shots while working on the plimsoll lines on the port side. Dennis
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Low top main sail is now completed. Moving on to the main upper topsail yard. In process. Dennis
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Upper main Topsail ready to be sewn onto the yard by First Mate. Dennis
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Installed the STBD yard brace for the main upper topsail yard. Just have the port side to do, then its on to the topgallant. Dennis
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Absolutely stunning work and dedicated application. So glad you have been posting all the information, with photos, of how you're bringing it all together - fantastic work Dennis!
Aye,
Ray.
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Lower main topgallant yard and sail mounted to mast. Rigging to follow. Two more sails to complete the main. Dennis
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Lower main Topgallant yard and sail completed. Two more to go. Dennis
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Just mounted the main upper Topgallant yard and sail. Working on installing the topping lifts. Back braces next. Dennis
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Stunning mate - simply stunning :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Thankyou sir. I sure wish I could be shrunk down and stand on deck to belay a line to a belaying pin. I have special riggers tools that I made to help me reach into tight areas, but still, must very carefully thread my huge hands in to make a delicate attachment. As the sails go on, the rigging intensifies so much so that it nearly boggles the mind %% . Tks for watching, we are getting there. Today, I'm working on topping lifts and braces for the main upper Topgallant. Dennis
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Main "Royal" completed. On to main Skysail yard. Dennis
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Looking like a Clipper Ship. Dennis
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At last, the main Skysail is mounted, just needs the back braces and the main is done. I need to correct some of my terminology with respect to the main sails. I discovered that the kit is not accurate in calling out the names of the sails. Using Underhill's plans, the correct terminology for the main sails is as follows, starting at the bottom and working up: Main Course, main lower Topsail, main upper Topsail, main Topgallant, main Royal and main skysail. Cheers, Dennis
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Amazing :-)) :-))
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Main Skysail braces are installed. Now building the mizzen lower yard. Dennis
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Amazing :-)) :-))
Isn't it just - I could not do this in a million years O0 I honestly think that rigging to a standard that looks real is a talent on its own.
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Merry Christmas to all and best wishes for a Happy New Year. I just got out of the hospital over the holidays, so not so much model work got done. Now home and back at it. Just installed the port fore brace to the lower mizzen yard. Those braces will now run forward instead of aft and posed a real challenge getting inside all that rigging now in place from the main. Both glue lines are rigged as well. My goal is to finish this project before I leave this earth and so far, the good Lord is giving me Grace to do just that. Cheers! Build on! Dennis
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Mizzen Lower Topsail buntlines going in. Yard is finished. Dennis
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Lower mizzen topsail complete and installed. On to the mizzen upper topsail yard. Dennis
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Don't usually see a sail mounted on the cross-jack - is that something the kit calls for?
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It does seem unlikely to be fitted with the wind from astern as on the model. Normally left off as it would blank the airflow to the main course and reduce the driving power. The yard is more to spread the foot of the topsail.
Jim
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Sail mounted per Campbells plans. Dennis
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I've seen pics of at least 6 other Cutty Sark models since I inquired about the "mizzen course" and all of them had one, either furled or set.
I guess clippers were always in a big hurry and set everything everywhere they could.
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I agree Jerry. I'm no expert on sailing a square rigged ship, but have done a ton of reading and generally, the clipper skippers piled on the sail for max speed. It has caused me to wonder if one sail would block the wind of another, but perhaps its in the furling shape and angle that is the secret in getting the max drive out of the square sails. I do have sailing experience, having owned three cruising sailboats, all marconi rigged. Square sails are a science all to their own and obviously worked. One can't ignore the beauty of a clipper ship.
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Have done a quick check through some of the reference books I have and found that the Mizzen Course was generally set when the wind was on the beam or at an angle to the bow. When the wind was from the stern the course would have been furled to allow the main course to draw fully. This is from contemporary photos or artworks that were published in the books. Scale plans will generally show the full set of sails but are no indication of which were actually set, this depended on the position of the wind and it's strength. While Clipper ship captains would cram on as much sail as they could even they had to allow for conditions. It's a pity modellers tend not to show them under storm canvas and rough seas.
Jim
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Well, I can assure you, I'm not going rip out hours of tedious work to reflect a particular sea condition. I have tried to compromise by partially furling my sails, more for visibility than anything else. It really is in the eye of the builder. Dennis
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Stunning model, well done :-))
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Well, I can assure you, I'm not going rip out hours of tedious work to reflect a particular sea condition. I have tried to compromise by partially furling my sails, more for visibility than anything else. It really is in the eye of the builder. Dennis
Yes, it's your model, depict it the way you want to.
Colin
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Fantastic work Dennis - you can almost feel the power in those sails :-))
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A wonderful Model !!!!!!!!!
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To all those that have been following the building of the Cutty Sark: It is with great sadness that I let you know that Dennis Lancaster passed away 1/23/23. One of the joys of his life was sharing his model making with all of you from around the world. He was unable to complete the model to his liking but it is 99% complete. I have not been able to go through the things on his workbench as yet - I just want to leave everything as is for the moment and visualize him still sitting here doing the most beautiful work. His love of modelling stretches back a ways but I believe his love of ship modeling started in the bedroom of our little apartment 42 years ago. He was "blown away" by other's work pictured on this forum and often said "man so and so does such beautiful work!" I hope that you will remember him as a humble and gentle soul for he truly was. Thank you for encouraging him through the years not only with this build but with many others such as his aircraft carrier and battleship collections.
Sincerely,
Bonnie Lancaster
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Deeply, deeply sorry to learn of the passing of our modelling friend Dennis.
He has been an inspiration to many of us on here.
Heart felt and sincere condolences to you and your family.
Aye,
Ray.
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So dreadfully sorry to hear of your loss Bonnie. Like so many members I admired Dennis' superlative workmanship and followed his builds. He was an amazing modeller and we all enjoyed his posts so much. This has come as a great shock to all of us on the Forum. Dennis will be remembered as a fine modeller and someone who loved to share his work with us. My sincere condolences to you and your family.
Colin
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Can I add my condolences . I am an admirer of Dennis's workmanship and his gentle approach shone through in his posts . we will miss him .
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Bonnie....
I stand behind all of the comments from our Members...........many years ago, I spoke off line with Dennis, of his Naval service, finally on a US Aircraft Carrier
Model Boat Mayhem has lost, a truly talented model builder & I say friend to many
regards
Derek
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I am deeply sadened by the loss of Dennis, I remember when he joined the forum.
A sad loss to the Forum with his skill and detail, my condolences to all the family.
Rich
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I can't do better than add "Amen" to all that's been said. Farewell to a real gentleman!
Tony
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Firstly I am so sorry for the loss to his loving family. To us on the forum, this has come as a shock. We will in our own ways miss him for the magnificent model builder that he was. RIP Dennis.
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So very sorry to read that Dennis had passed.Thanks to him for sharing his project with us, and letting us know about a fellow in Washington who was enjoying building a model of a great ship. We were all enjoying following his progress, and will miss his updates.
My condolences
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Bonnie I am so sorry to hear this news - I am so going to miss Dennis's modelling exploits as he was so talented.
Sending my families love to yours - Mark
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So sad to read of Dennis's passing, my sincere condolences to all of his family.
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My sincere condolences. Dennis was a fantastic modeller and will be sorely missed.
My best wishes to his family.
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I am so sad to hear of his passing and have followed his work and been so impressed with his attention to detail. I hope that his work will be displayed as he intended for the enjoyment of others and in his memory.
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So sad to hear this news about Dennis. A great loss to his family and to the hobby of modelling. An honourable person. Rest Easy my friend from over the pond.
John
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My sincere condolences to you and your family