Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Glue etc. => Topic started by: tonyH on December 05, 2021, 04:53:40 pm
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I'm confused about how the1-part resins cure. I need to glaze 20 or so 6mm portholes which are sealed at the back. There are several "dropper" sized bottles of the UV jewellery type available for little money and these would be ideal for a drop per port but has anyone tried them or is it just as good using a clear coating resin?
Any advice please?
Tony
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Use glue and glaze
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some of these you need to use a uv tourch to cure it. Best experminting first.
John
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The disadvantage of using resin to simulate porthole glazing is that you always get a meniscus effect where the surface is concave. It never looks quite right. Ideally you need flat transparent discs glued into the porthole.
You can often do this by punching out discs from transparent plastic to fit in the porthole using a revolving leather or individual hole punch set. Apply epoxy or superglue to the back of the porthole to fix the glazing in place.
Colin
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If you go down the glazing route do a bit of experimenting first as superglue can make some clear plastics go very hazy.
Ralph
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Hi All and many thanks for the input.
The ones I want to glaze are sealed from the back and what I'm after is, effectively, a crystal clear,self-hardening, varnish that will not soften at a thickness of about 2mm. I don't think that the glue and glaze type will harden fully unless I use loads of layers so I reckon the UV stuff is worth a go.I'll get a torch John, they've got other pet-orientated uses. They're cheap enough as long as the job doesn't need the wattage of a tanning booth. I can then report back if anyone is interested?
Cheers
Tony :-))
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I used glue and glaze on all my portholes... small or large..