Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Tafelspitz on February 17, 2022, 01:33:04 pm
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Well hello fellow shipmates, long time no see :-)
You may remember me from the Imara Build Log (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57420.0.html) from a couple of years ago.
Well, it has been some time and unfortunately I haven't sailed her for quite some time. A lot of other things happening all of the time. But I intend to come this spring and summer :-))
Anyway, I was finishing a photo book of the build log the other day (had two copies made: one for me and one to take to the pond for interested spectators to skim) and this got the old builder's flame burning again. Time to build another vessel. It took me some time to evaluate all of the options and availabilities. Since scratch building is out of my scope, it is going to be another kit.
I made myself the following scope statement:
- Smaller (and lighter) than Imara (space is limited and my back doesn't get any younger, either ok2 )
- A vessel with lots of details, odds and sods - but not another tug
- Not another CalderCraft kit (nothing wrong with them, but I want some variety)
- No white metal fittings, if possible
- Electric propulsion
- A bow thruster would be nice
After a lot of thinking, considering, comparing and mulling over different options, I finally decided on the Billing Boats Calypso (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RV_Calypso). After doing some research, I fell in love with this interesting and famous vessel.
The only problem was that it seems to be out of production. And out of stock everywhere I checked. Out of production, out of stock, out of luck.
But.... after doing some hefty online time I managed to locate one last kit at Harbor Models, Inc. in California, which is, I'm happy to report, now on its journey to Switzerland %%
I also managed to ebay a copy of the famous (and long out of print) Calypso book, which should be an effervescent source of information and pictures.
The Billing Boats kit is somewhat plain, which leaves a lot of room for improvement and amendments. I learned a lot from building the Imara and I feel I'm up for the challenge.
Now I can't wait for the package to arrive at my doorstep.
Looking forward to another interesting build and I hope you'll join me along for the ride.
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I look forward to your build . Good luck. :-))
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Good to see you back Tafelspitz.
Calypso is a very interesting subject with lots of unusual detail. I remember seeing her in Concarneau in a very bad state.
However there is one thing you should be aware of. The model is very top heavy! I believe the kit was originally designed as a static exhibition model so it needs to be very carefully ballasted and batteries and motors kept low in the hull.
There are build logs on the Model Boats Forum which describe these issues.
https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=104760&p=1
https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=103338
Colin
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I would say from the start,
keep the topweight to a minimum.
It can be a beautiful model, but
I have seen two well made versions
capsize in not much more than a breeze.
Looking forward to seeing the progress.
Ned
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Thank you guys, also for the heads-up regarding her being top heavy. I already stumbled upon this fact while reading a couple of build logs over in another forum.Something to be aware of to be sure. One recommendation I'll be sure to follow is putting the batteries all the way down to the keel.
Also, there appears to be the odd quirky error in the instructions. Something I'm already used to from the Imara build ok2
Fingers crossed the kit arrives in one piece, especially the hull.
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Question regarding propulsion. I'm considering 2 x 400 Max Speed motors, but nowadays we have also the option of brushless motors.
Would brushless be a viable option for my Calypso? Or is this only a thing for speed boats and I shouldn't bother?
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Hi Tafelspitz
The Speed 400s have a rpm of about 17000 to 18000 with an efficiency of 70%.
So divide the rpm into the voltage to get the brushless motor kv.
E.G. 14.8 volts(4S Lipo battery) on a 1200kv motor is unloaded 17,760 rpm.
But the efficiency of a brushless is about 90% and the power can be about four times the brush motor.
Brushless motors require a ESC(speed control) for each motor.
Also the motor shaft is generally 4mm.
If you get the motors and ESCs to handle the 4S Lipo you can drop down to 3S Lipo batteries.
The Lipo batteries can be laid on they side (only about 19/25mm width) to keep the weight down below the water line.
Canabus
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Brushless and LiPos would seem massive overkill for a small low displacement boat like Calypso. The original ship could only manage 10 knots! Apart from the expense the LiPo batteries are too light to add the ballast where you need it.
If you read through the two links I posted above then 385 motors and a 7.2 NiMh pack will be quite adequate and the NiMH cells will keep the weight where it's wanted. The 385s are low drain motors and will be ideal for Calypso. I've used them on heavier models with no problems. The Speed 400 motors are faster than the 385s and draw a lot more current. You don't need this in Calypso.
The links above also discuss stability and the placing of ballast in detail. Sheet lead in the bottom of the hull is recommended together with weight reduction in the upperworks including replacing heavy fittings like the fuel drums mentioned if they are still included in the kit.
I'd forget fitting a bow thruster. The original vessel didn't have one and again it is just unwanted weight in the wrong place. Twin screws and rudders will give you all the control you need.
Almost everyone who has built this model has mentioned stability issues, I think it can be made into a workable r/c boat but the ballasting and weight reduction is critical. One thing it is difficult to do much about is that the upperworks generate a lot of wind resistance so a breeze can tend to push the model over.
Colin
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The Speed 400s have a rpm of about 17000 to 18000 with an efficiency of 70%.
So divide the rpm into the voltage to get the brushless motor kv.
E.G. 14.8 volts(4S Lipo battery) on a 1200kv motor is unloaded 17,760 rpm
Thank you, canabus, for this detailed explanation! :-))
Brushless and LiPos would seem massive overkill for a small low displacement boat like Calypso.
If you read through the two links I posted above then 385 motors and a 7.2 NiMh pack will be quite adequate and the NiMH cells will keep the weight where it's wanted. The 385s are low drain motors and will be ideal for Calypso. I've used them on heavier models with no problems. The Speed 400 motors are faster than the 385s and draw a lot more current. You don't need this in Calypso.
Thank you Colin, that is sound advise.
I guess I'll go down the brushed route after all. I'll have to see if I can get a pair of 385s, seems to be a bit exotic here in my neck of the woods.
I'd forget fitting a bow thruster. The original vessel didn't have one and again it is just unwanted weight in the wrong place. Twin screws and rudders will give you all the control you need.
I respectfully disagree: the original seems to have had a tiny bow thruster down in the observation bulb (see picture).
But you're absolutely right that keeping the weight down and low is paramount.
Any ideas what these strange small, oblong things are that we can see on her bow, BTW?
Dom
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Those are sacrificial Anodes. They protect the plating by eroding.
They are a zinc alloy and are replaced at regular intervals.
Ned
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I respectfully disagree: the original seems to have had a tiny bow thruster down in the observation bulb (see picture).
My apologies, you are quite right! It is tiny isn't it? Hard to believe it would have been much practical use except in a dead calm.
I think the smallest commercial model unit is this one:
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=thruster&PN=Raboesch%2DMini%2DBow%2DThruster%2D10%2D12mm%2Dx92mm%2DRAB108_20%2Ehtml#SID=120
I have one fitted in my Revell Queen Mary 2 liner kit whch is a bit smaller and lighter than Calypso. It does work, but only when the ship is pretty much stationary and is not very effective. Not cheap either!
You can get the 385 motors at a very reasonable cost from Component Shop who say thay are happy to ship anywhere in the world and they only charge what they need to. I use them all the time as do many on here.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/385-dc-motor.html.html
Colin
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Those are sacrificial Anodes.
Ah, that does make sense. Thank you!
I think the smallest commercial model unit is this one:
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=thruster&PN=Raboesch%2DMini%2DBow%2DThruster%2D10%2D12mm%2Dx92mm%2DRAB108_20%2Ehtml#SID=120 (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=thruster&PN=Raboesch%2DMini%2DBow%2DThruster%2D10%2D12mm%2Dx92mm%2DRAB108_20%2Ehtml#SID=120)
I have one fitted in my Revell Queen Mary 2 liner kit whch is a bit smaller and lighter than Calypso. It does work, but only when the ship is pretty much stationary and is not very effective. Not cheap either!
You can get the 385 motors at a very reasonable cost from Component Shop
Thank you, Colin, much obliged! I just placed an order for two 385 motors and they are rather inexpensive indeed.The mini thruster I was able to locate at my local store. I'll look into that once I got the kit on the bench. Maybe I can even step it up one size (functionality beats accuracy) but we'll see.
Speaking of getting the kit on my workbench: according to the FedEx tracking service it is now in Memphis as I type this :-) Listening to Jean Michel Jarre's "Waiting for Cousteau (https://youtu.be/i8z9iZOiMEw)" until she gets here ok2
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There seems to be some scope for moving the waterline up into the black band zone to improve stability.
The other important thing is to ensure that the inevitable water that does get onto the lower part of the deck cannot get into the hull and can drain overboard easily.
Colin
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I just got a heap of building plans from a German publishing company. They're actually for scratch building and in a slightly wrong scale (1:50 vs. 1:45) but I figured they may come in handy. You can see right here and there that there is indeed not a lot of boat below the waterline. Raising the waterline a notch may indeed be something to consider.
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Following here too! :-)
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Welcome there, Potassium nitrate. Come on in and have a seat. Can I get you something to drink? :-)
My Calypso kit has made it across the big pond and is now at Charles De Gaule FedEx hub in Paris. Nice touch that it gets to visit its "home country" before eventually getting here.
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I have to agree with Colin 385 motors would be the ideal choice for this model.
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Just to add to the comments about stability, this work in progress is the original type of American PCS where Calypso was born. This is at 1:48 and displacement is 2 lbs less than yours...about 7lbs but a lot less up-top....fortunately. Even then, I've hollowed out a lot of the resin fittings and remade some using balsa and 0.5mm plastic. The aft deck is clad with cardboard. 2x385's and an 8.4 volt NiMh snake along the keel.
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I have to agree with Colin 385 motors would be the ideal choice for this model.
Thank you, Stan! Nifty, handy chart you got me there. Two 385 motors are already on their way :-))
This is at 1:48 and displacement is 2 lbs less than yours...about 7lbs but a lot less up-top....fortunately. Even then, I've hollowed out a lot of the resin fittings and remade some using balsa and 0.5mm plastic. The aft deck is clad with cardboard. 2x385's and an 8.4 volt NiMh snake along the keel.
Very nice work you got there, Tony O0
Your battery snake is very inspirational.
My intention is to replace, enhance and amend quite a lot of the stuff that comes with the kit with scratch built items. I will be very attentive concerning the up-top weight.I intend to keep the keel section below the motor deck accessible and fill it up with lead shot (leftover from the Imara build) once the time arrives.
Also, I will try to lay the battery all the way down onto the keel by way of a cutaway section in the motor deck plate.
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Long way to go yet, but the reason for the "snake is so I can move it fore/aft as much as possible if needed.
Tony
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Look what the cat dragged in! :police: The kit finally arrived and I'm happy to report that everything looks OK. No cracked hull and no broken accessories, at least at first and second glance.I will have to sift through all of the parts to see if it anything is missing, though.In direct comparison to Imara, there is not a lot of stuff but what is there looks of good quality. With a few exceptions: the plastic props will have to go, of course. I'm not too sure about the prop shafts, either. We'll see.Oh, and some of the brass fittings definitely will have to be replaced with plastic fittings for sheer weight. Solid brass gasoline barrels, you gotta be kidding me :o :}
Anyway. Every journey starts with the first step.
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Replace the shafts before going much further, brass running in brass is not good as far as wear is concerned. My Billings Smit Nederland came with chrome plated brass shafts. It did a lot of running and the chrome wore off allowing the brass to run in the brass bearing and it wore down allowing water to leak in.
Jim
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Thanks Jim, I have now ordered a couple of higher quality shafts along with the propellers.
And first things first, a boat needs a stand. This one will do for building.Also, I fitted the battery with my preferred flavor of connector. It is currently charging as I type this.
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Got some assorted accessories from different shops over the last couple of days, like bow thruster, ESCs, servo, receiver, shafts and propellers.Some of the stuff isn't even on the photos (like the couplings and electronic switches). Now, if only the day job wasn't in the way :D
Also got the famous Calypso book with some interesting facts, pictures and technical information that will no doubt come in handy.Fortunately it is in fairly good condition, although it smells a bit funny. But I guess this will air out over the next couple of centuries, though.
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All pretty & shiny new bits Dom .....[especially the brass prop %) ].....just what are you planning with the M1 - M2.5 GEWINDESCNNEID set?
[visual translation is very small sized Tap & Die set] O0
Was brushed technology preferable due to cost, or another consideration?
Looking forward to the build
Derek
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No need for brushless in a model like this I would have thought. A conventional setup is quite adequate.
Colin
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Derek, good to see you around!
As Colin said, brushless would probably be overkill for a small sized, slow sailing vessel like Calypso.
Although when you look at the market offerings regarding brushed vs. brushless ESCs, the trend seems to be leaning heavily in the brushless direction. At least in the shops I was roaming.
Anyway. The other thing you correctly identified as cut and die for M1 - M2.5 threads. To be honest, I don't know exactly what I'm gonna use it for, but I'm pretty sure its time will come eventually, e.g. for the rudder linkage. When I bought it I was under the impression (or rather delusion) that it went up to M3 but apparently that is not the case. I guess I can always complement it with larger pieces when and if the need arises.
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Hullo Dom.......I only watch & read electrics as an overview, however it does appear that the cost of ball raced 3 phase motors & controllers is ever decreasing and to the point where equivalent Watts power to Watt power is toward the brushless fraternity
The old addage, however does apply.......pay for $$$ quality cutting tools & you achieve what you expect O0 .......
I am comfortable tapping M2 x 0.4P.....which is the nominal bolt size on my steam line flanges......but nothing smaller >>:-(
You can easily purchase individual elements for M3 x 0.5P :-))
Derek
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The new shafts and propellers compared to the respective kit version. This should do the trick.I was very impressed by the quality of the three Hitec servos I'm using for the Imara, so I went for another servo by that company for the rudder in this build. I went for a small (i.e. light) digital one.
The receiver for my Graupner Hott set is also ready. The set has ten or so memory slots for different models, so every model can have its dedicated settings.
Imara uses a rather intricate mixer setup for the two steam engines and rudder servos, so I will make double sure to back theses settings up to a memory card before touching anything for the Calypso model settings <*<
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Slowly getting the build started.I made a compartment box for the battery. The bottom's edge follows the angle of the battery pack, so that it will sit as low as possible down at the keel.
I also started building the observation chamber. I'm not particularly fond of vacuum formed parts, but the job needs to be done :-)
I have added a small polystyrene strip and I will also give the interior a coat of component resin to reinforce the seam since I will have to bore a couple of holes into the bulb where the observation windows will sit eventually.But first it will need some filling and sanding once the glue and resin cures.
I have ordered some electronic parts from China for a water based ultrasonic smoker as per this thread (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,63185.0.html). That's going to be interesting and I will report on that later. Still some experimenting due.
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Although it may still a bit early for a smoke generator, I like tinkering about with electronics parts. Toys for boys ok2 Back in the Paleozoic when I built a Graupner Seabex One, I fitted her with two small oil based Seuthe smoke units. Since I wasn't very impressed with oil splatters fouling the boat, I prefer something water based.
I was roaming the forum for ideas on water based smoke generators when I stumbled upon this idea in the black arts forum (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,63185.0.html) that uses an ultrasonic vaporizer. Now there is an intriguing idea :-))
After getting the parts from China I put together a conceptual test prototype (I love pleonasms ok2 ).I had to slightly modify the board that came with the vaporizer module since it features a toggle switch which will be of no use when installed in the boat.
I designed a simple test housing to test drive the vaporizer and the miniature fan. This looks very promising. The vaporizer and the fan start operating at approx. 2.5V and can handle up to 5V. This unit (which I just denominated "Pandora's Box :}2 ) draws approx. 0.34A at 4.8V. The test tank holds approx. 60mL of water and this lasted for over an hour. I think I can work with that.Here's a short movie of the unit in action (https://www.dropbox.com/s/fcqchh0h4ymwrqk/IMG_6435.MOV?dl=0).
I have a dedicated miniature ESC that I can run parallel to the main ESC that I intend to use for the Pandora smoker unit.
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I have a question for you seasoned builders out there. How do you prevent those small, nasty dimples from forming when sanding down filler? >>:-( See pictures. Q-tip and coin for size reference. The dimples are rather tiny and the picture exaggerates them quite a bit due to the macro lens, but they're still bothersome.What am I doing wrong? {:-{
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Use a fine surface car filler works for me.
Stan
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What type of filler is it? If a cellulose or styrene solvent filler a'la Green stuff, Tamiya or other tubed type, as it cures, it shrinks because the solvent makes up a proportion of the whole when plastic. Therefore, you will need to apply a little more each time to fill the dimples. It might be worth trying to find average shrinkage rates and overfill the gaps and sand back. Be mindful that the more you add initially, the longer it will take to cure especially as the solvent in the lower region of the mass will have to get through to the outside world.
For epoxy based fillers, the usual issue is poor mixing, old filler that has 'skinned' or contaminants that basically stay put in the mix until it cures and you get sanding when the contaminants pull out as the abrasive passes over. If you over fill with epoxy putty or solvent putty, be mindful that you overfill enough!
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As Stan says, car filler such as P38 is usually the best bet. Abrade the surface before application.
Colin
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Thank you guys.I'm actually using a fine car body filler, the same type I already had for the Imara build. But it's a brand new can.
You may be on to something that it probably wasn't mixed properly and hadn't cured enough when I was sanding. It's supposed to be sandable after 30 minutes and I let it cure over night, but I only prepared a tiny bit and probably didn't have the mixture proportion right.Be it as it may, I was able to amend it and now everything is fine (pun intended).
Observation chamber coming along. I will have to test the windowed portholes for watertightness before glueing them in place, though ;)
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Test fitting the observation chamber I noticed that the bow has a couple of nasty dents. While this may add a touch of realism, I'd rather try and smoothen things out in a later step.
Also test fitting prop shafts and propellers. I replaced the provided plastic propellers 1:1 with brass ones but just realized that they are too big %)
I did some research and have now a smaller pair on order.The motor supports are just a couple of prototypes I made.
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Hello, I want to write that the ship had propellers with 4 wings from the beginning.
When the conversion took place in 1981, they made new propellers again with 4 wings
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Thank you! You're quite right, that's also what I figured when I was looking into the issue.
I have now a couple of Raboesch four bladed, 30mm propellers on order (147 4Bl-30-R-M4 and 147 4Bl-30-L-M4). I should get them after the Easter holiday.
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Some minor progress. I'm a bit all over the place with the build since I can't decide what to do next. Everything I want to do seems to require something else being done first.
Preparing the mini bowthruster. Will glue it in at a later stage, though, after the "false nose" is in place and the front porthole is securely sealed.
The mini motor wasn't turning freely when I was testing it. I'm not sure whether it's a technical problem or just a matter of running the G-seals in. Some more testing required. I have a backup motor on order, just in case.
The general layout of the baseplate looks something like this. I used my laser engraver to cut the battery opening and two access holes to the keel.
And while I had the laser out, I made some deck planking using 0.6mm plywood. Line spacing is 3,0mm. Looks quite nice methinks. Although it will be a while until I'm gonna need it.
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The new propellers just arrived from the Netherlandes :-))
Prototyping the motor mount to get it in the correct angle using dummy couplers to connect the motors to the drive shafts. Took me 2 attempts :} . If everything sits OK I intend to print the motor mount from glass fiber enforced nylon. That's probably overkill, statics wise, but why not? %%
After the base plate is properly sealed, I will glue it in place.
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Base plate securely glued in place. Weighing it down with whatever I could get my hands on :-)
Motor mount is now printed from glass fiber reenforced Nylon and not very neatly glued together with Fusion glue :(( After adding a small wooden support I glued the drive shafts in place. The dummy couplers are now dismissed and can make way for the real thing.
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Very nice Tafelspitz, you are making great progress.
I am picking up some useful tips from you, thanks.
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Thank you Tworrs!It's a fun project so far but I'm glad that I have some experience gained from the Imara build.
I'm also always glad to pick up tips and tricks from other builds :-))
Dom
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Dom....is the mini bulbous bow a laydown viewing station %) for humans :o ?...... or just a multi-camera/video positioning setup?..... Derek
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Dom....is the mini bulbous bow a laydown viewing station %) for humans :o ?...... or just a multi-camera/video positioning setup?..... Derek
(https://i.postimg.cc/wRg7r58G/sphere.png) (https://postimg.cc/wRg7r58G)
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He looks very serious!
Great progress on the build Dom!
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Thanks tsenecal .....
Clearly the space must be accessible for some function, however I certainly would not volunteer to do the 'layflat' role >>:-(
So even adjusting a camera would be fraught with underwater claustrophobia 8) or enough to make that Bloke look serious :-X
Derek
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Thanks tsenecal .....
Clearly the space must be accessible for some function, however I certainly would not volunteer to do the 'layflat' role >>:-(
So even adjusting a camera would be fraught with underwater claustrophobia 8) or enough to make that Bloke look serious :-X
Derek
...That pic is a caricature off the websites. That said, what I found interesting was the steel bow was extended and the bulb on the bottom was pretty much separate i.e. added to the original wooden minesweeper hull. No wonder the manhole on the deck at the very front of the bow, no doubt leading to the ladder to the observation bulb down below?
I like this build, I've been finding so many Jacques Cousteau and Calypso films since it started (and re-watching the movies). "The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou" is also one of my most favourite movies of all time.
Rich
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Hey guys,
Yes, the bulb is an extension Cousteau had built for his purposes and yes, it would have been manned by way of the hatch at the bow. I found some pics of it.
There were at least two different iterations of the bow extension during the history of the boat.
From what I have seen, there was probably only a wooden palette down there to lie on. Not very comfy but then you wouldn't probably want to stay there for extended amounts of time anyway, I guess :-)
I'm still considering installing a mini camera with a Raspberry Pi somewhere in the underwater hull, but then there's already going to be a lot of stuff crowded into the small hull as it is so I'm probably going to skip on that.
I hope the windowed portholes I got are watertight. I did a test with one of them and it did seem to be OK, but just to be sure I added a drop of two-component adhesive to the one that goes into the bow over the bulb since that one is critical. Downside is that adding glue degrades the nice clear window, so I'm going to skip on that in the bulb portholes, if possible. I could use canopy glue but that stuff isn't water resistant, unfortunately.
Once the portholes are installed, I'll be sure to give the bulb a thorough test in a bowl of water before attaching it to the hull, though.
Dom
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Dom, if I may make a suggestion for sealing your portholes, perhaps very carefully applied clear bathroom silicone sealant may do the job?
Garry
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Brilliant suggestion, Garry!
That should do the trick :-))
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I hope it does Dom, good luck. :-))
Garry
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While working on the hull, I noticed a small section at the bow where the ABS wall was incredibly thin - like paper thin - so I decided to reinforce that part with some glass fiber and resin.
The hull seems to be a bit surprised, judging from its facial expression :o :}
Dom
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Nose job :-) I ended up not using silicone sealant (nor any other glue or glue like sealants) for the portholes. They're just too friggin' tiny to work with and after wasting a whole pack of them I eventually went down a different route.
I stuck them down flat on the ground on a piece of sticky tape and gave them a couple coats of clear glossy varnish. This ended up very neatly sealing the gaps between the glass and the brass rim while keeping the windows perfectly clear and shiny.
After thus being treated and successfully standing the water tank dip test over night, they were now ready to be glued into place.I gave the inside of the nose and bow a coat of black primer followed by a coat of Vallejo "dull aluminium" to prevent the light from shining through the plastic. I've learned that lesson the hard way during the Imara build :-) The wooden pallet that I meant to go inside the nose ended up being too high up for the part of the bow that sticks inside the nose part and touching the LED I placed there, so I had to take it out again.
One LED is fitted inside the nose and one inside the bow. Anxious about water from getting into the hull by way of the front porthole somehow, I added a small bow bulkhead for good measure. This also serves as holder for the front porthole illumination LED.It's a bit messy and a blob of GFK filler somehow ended up down at the bottom of the bow unnoticed, but fortunately it is not disrupting anything.
Lighting is designed for 6.0V (vs. 3.3V in my Imara).
And yes, I know I'm not there yet. There's obviously still some more sanding, re-filling and re-sanding necessary <*<
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Next up: rudder linkage. The kit came with a couple of very thin and flimsy linkage levers that I'm sure will break if you as much as only look at them, so I designed and printed a bunch myself to my own specifications. And while I had the CAD and printer fired up, I also made a servo cradle. Printed from black tough PLA for some added strength and durability but without going overboard :-)
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That observation module looks amazing Dom, great job.
The printed parts definitely look more substantial than the supplied parts, makes me lust after a printer :}
Garry
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Very tidy Dom :-)) ....did the internal splines for the servo drive shaft print with dimensional correctness?..........
[I assumed they would universal, however Google tells m the M6 toothed spline can be 21T, 24T or 25T {-) ]
Derek
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Thank you guys!
Derek, the servo horn you see there is an original part that came with the servo.I only printed the levers for the rudder.
Not sure how well those tiny splines would print, anyway. I know for a fact that working M6 threads print OK, but any smaller than that, I don't know. Maybe with a finer nozzle. Anyhow, there's no need for that as I do have the original servo horns (and a couple of spare ones lying around) :-)
Dom
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This is now where those tiny thread cutters from an earlier post (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67920.msg735763.html#msg735763) came in handy :-))
I cut the M2.0 mm threads for the rudder linkage which will eventually look something like this.
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Seeing all those electronic parts and wires lying on the table before me is a little bit intimidating and overwhelming, I must admit. There isn't too much space inside this hull, really. But once put inside everything starts to fall into place and I have already a good idea what to put where.
I'll have to make a DC/DC-board again for all the different voltages I need:
- Main motors will run on the native 7.2 battery power.
- Bow thruster 12V (step-up converter)
- Lights will run on 6V- Steam 5V with a miniature speed controller that will run parallel to the main ESC
- There's also going to be a radar motor and perhaps a couple of tiny motors driving the heli rotors that require 3V or less, but I'll be feeding them via resistors if necessary.
Initially I was thinking about a sound board as well, but I'm not going to bother after all. Too much going on already <*<
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Buliding and soldering the DC/DC - board. I have three voltage regulators that convert the native battery voltage (7.3V) into 5V, 6V, and 12V.6V is for lights, 12V for the bow thruster. Main ESC will run off native voltage, as will the smoke generator.
The 5V is for nothing in particular yet, but I added it for Justin ;)
I finally gave in and ordered another ShockWave 3 sound module from Model Sounds Inc. Cost me an arm and a leg what with shipping and customs duty >>:-( but I like the one in my Imara and also wanted one for this build. It has CAT3408 twin diesel engine sound on one channel and an assortment of horns, bells, dings and some other clips on the second channel.This one uses a small exciter instead of a speaker to save on space and weight.
While uploading the images of the DC/DC-board, I just noticed that I forgot to sand the wooden base plate. Tsk. :o
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https://www.modelsoundsinc.com/index.php
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That’s the one, Martin.
Dom
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The sound module just came in. Along with a detailed manual :-))
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Just a small picture update. Lots of innards for such a small vessel :} I made a XT60 connection socket for easy battery replacement and a support stand for the sound module. Wiring is not complete and it will be tidied up a bit. I guess ok2
Dom
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Yes, a lot of innards. Are you still happy with the stability of the boat under wind and water conditions? I'm building a paddle steamer model at the moment and have to be very careful not to accumulate unwanted top weight.
Colin
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This is my first look at this blog and I'm amazed at how you electronics wizards manage to get things working as they should.
Now, I'll have to go back to the beginning of your build and read it properly.
Look forward to seeing your progress Dom - cheers!
Ray.
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Thank you for checking in, guys!
Been away for a couple of weeks but now slowly getting back to it.
Colin, I have yet to put her in the test tank for the first time but I guess this is going to be one of my next tasks after I have all the wires in place and tidied up a bit.
Cheers, Dom
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Hey folks.I ran into a bit of a problem dry test running the main motors. There is quite a bit of strain from the sealed Raboesch shafts on these little motors - I figure they need some running in, but the starboard shaft also showed some considerable vibration that I didn't like. I don't know where it comes from. Switching the two shafts didn't make a difference, so I figure it's not a bend in one of the shafts. Replacing the cardans with double navy cardans to reduce some possible aligning inaccuracies came to mind - the same ones I'm using for the steam engines in my Imara. I'm very happy with them.Problem is: they are 7mm longer than the single cardans and on top of that, they require 4 mm shafts on either side. The motor shafts, on the other hand, are only 2.3 mm {:-{ To account for the longer cardans, I had to completely re-design and re-print the motor supports.
I also designed and printed some tiny adaptor insert prototypes for the motor side of the cardans. They're working well but I'm gonna need these machined from brass eventually. Alas, I don't have a lathe. Any idea whether such tiny parts can be machined at all? Outer diameter is 4 mm, inner diameter 2.3 mm and there is a 3 mm hole for the grub screw that grabs onto the motor shaft...
Anyway, this whole alteration brought some relief, but the Raboesch shafts still are a bit stiff. I hope this will ease out over time, once the seals are run in a bit.
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Are the Raboesch shafts stiff to the touch when disconnected from the motors?
The vibration could be down to the couplings, those red ones sare not always drilled true.
Colin
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Are the Raboesch shafts stiff to the touch when disconnected from the motors?
Yes, they are a tad stiff due to the seals. I've read elsewhere that this is an issue that will get better after some running. Maybe I'm gonna lube them with a drop of glycerine, see if that makes things a tad better.
The vibration could be down to the couplings, those red ones sare not always drilled true.
You may be on to something there, Colin. That would at least explain my observations.
That's also why I need these motor drive shaft inserts precision machined. I'll have to find a place that can make them for me.
CheersDom
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I finally managed to machine a couple of adaptor inserts for the double cardans. The fine folks from a FabLab MakerSpace let me use their lathe last saturday and there was even an expert showing me the ropes. :-))
After some milling, drilling, reaming, sanding and polishing, they turned out and fit very well. Very tiny parts but now I can finally go forward with the build.
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Just noticed a You Tube video about Calypso.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL1HTM0ij0
Colin
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Hullo Dom......if you are chasing vibrations, so a few assumptions %)
1. this appears to be a brass spacer, but what does it do? ..........apart from providing a mass that potentially cause vibration.....even with a reamed bore onto the propshaft, the clearance between the two will allow for an off axis twist between diameters when the grub screw is tightened
Depending on the physical distance, a piece of tight-fitting shim [of the same thickness] forced [red arrows] between the elements will ensure optimum axis when tightening the grubscrew
2. the motor shaft bush....we see as reamed verticall by hand ....so there is a potential for an off-axis bore, when pressed into the coupling hub
Could the motors be moved aft to eliminate the brass rotating spacers?
Could a one piece coupling hub be produced, to eliminate the spacer?
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Just, from left of Field........did the original vessel design have :o converging prop shafts?
Derek
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Just noticed a You Tube video about Calypso.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL1HTM0ij0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL1HTM0ij0)
Colin
Just came across that video earlier this week by chance and that's what made me search out this thread... I thought it was a great video and really made me want to find out more about what appears to be a fascinating story.
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Just noticed a You Tube video about Calypso.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL1HTM0ij0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKL1HTM0ij0)
Colin
Thanks for the link, Colin. I've seen a couple of documentaries and also read the book about Calypso and it's interesting to see how they modified, rebuilt and repositioned her during her lifetime. Case in point is the helicopter pad which used to be located at the bow and was later moved aft, for visibility reasons I assume.
Hullo Dom......if you are chasing vibrations, so a few assumptions %)
Hi Derek, as always great to read your considerations. But not to worry, I gave her a dry test rund yesterday and I am happy to report that with the new double cardans and the newly machined inserts everything runs now smoothly as a silken cat ok2 :-))
I guess Colin was right in his assumption that one of the the red cardan couplers I was using first must have been the culprit. In hindsight, I could have just replaced the vibrating coupler with a new, true one. But hindsight is 20/20, as the saying goes.
Dom
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I gave her her first dip in the water. Test tank time! Weighing her down a bit with some key rings and old keys I once got off of ebay. Not drawing any water as far as I can tell and all the basic functionality seems to be working fine so far. The bow thruster is also working fine. The battery sitting down at the bottom gives her good stability so far.
Using a bridge rectifier and a resistor I had laying around, I made the power supply for the steam generator. This way I can connect it up in parallel to the main motors and it will thus work no matter whether we go forward or backward.I was experimenting with adding some glycerine to the water and yes, it does significantly improve the visibility of the steam :-))
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After a year or so of hiatus (some other stuff and smaller projects gotten in the way) I'm happy to report that I'm now slowly getting back to the build. I'll have to recap what I have done so far to determine what the next steps are gonna be, though.
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Picking up where I have left off... assembling a steam generator unit from 3D printed parts and some assorted electronics. I will elaborate on this unit once I get it to perform as intended and I will upload the files for printing for others to share.The deck planking I have coarsely cut from birch wood. The planking pattern was added with a laser engraver. This needs some sanding down after gluing to the deck.
Feels good to be back in business :-))