Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Glue etc. => Topic started by: Biscuit on November 17, 2007, 02:22:03 pm
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Hi all,
Starting work on my half finished Lesro Rapier, its all wood construction, been told I can use Pva or another glue called Cascamite, what is best, can you use a fast setting epoxy resin glue ? come to think of it sure my dad made a gutair using Cascamite.
Thanks.
Biscuit.
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For preference Cascomite. Some PVA's are not waterproof, If you use epoxy resin two pack use the 24hr type,NOT
the 5Min's, stronger bonds. If you use Casco, add a little METHS with the water, it breaks down the air bubbles in the
mix. I've still got a Sea Hornet that was glued together with Casco,it's 50years old.
Ian
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Thanks, where could I buy this glue, can you get it from Wicks or somewhere like that?
Cheers.
Biscuit
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Most DIY, Hardware, Model shops should stock it. I have recently been using a glue called Wellbond. Finding it excellent so far.
Gary.
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Colin Bishop posted this address:- http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/CAS125G.html now goes under the name Extramite
Now by Humbrol.
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Colin Bishop posted this address:- http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/CAS125G.html now goes under the name Extramite
Now by Humbrol.
Thanks men, been out today to try and buy some but no luck, been using weather proof pva glue, guess i could go around the joints with the Cascamite later, the boat will be painted so hopefully that will water proof it.
Thanks.
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I wouldn't rely totally on paint. A few knocks and you will have water in the glue lines. However you can seal the hull when built using polyester resin and glass tissue before painting. There's plenty about this technique on the site if you use the Search facility. It will also give you a protective coating against damage.
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The best wood glues of all (IMHO) are the one-shot polyurethane foaming yellow glues - they come under various trade names including gorilla glue, though the problem is to buy little enough as the shelf life once opened is not very long. I've built 1:1 dinghies as well as models with it.
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Yeah I found those glues but they are quick drying, not good for getting the position of the side skins on, as I said will have a look for some cascamite tomorrow and go over the joints, plus will seal it before its painted.
Thanks
Biscuit.
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Q. What is Alyphatic Resin.
Spelling probably worong.
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Spelling OK Tiger, by heck you made MY brain cells have to work overtime on that one, had to check elsewhere on
this, but, - when PVA adhesives first started to be used in toy aeroplane construction in preference to Balsa cements,
one problem was that when you sanded the wood, any overspill of glue onto the wood tended to drag and caused
grooves and tears in the surface of the BALSA wood. Not a problem on HARD woods, but a new wonder glue was
discovered by the modellling fraternity, ALIPHATIC RESIN which according to the modelling boffins was a 'sandable'
type PVA. Never tried it as being a tigh----FRUGAL Yorkshireman, standard PVA's surficed and the aliphatics at that time
were not easily available.
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http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html (http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html)
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Aliphatic wood glue is very good, quick grab and more or less waterproof. My preferred choice for all wood to wood joints these days.
As well as Martin's link above try Googling Aliphatic Glue - lots of info out there.
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The best wood glues of all (IMHO) are the one-shot polyurethane foaming yellow glues - they come under various trade names including gorilla glue, though the problem is to buy little enough as the shelf life once opened is not very long. I've built 1:1 dinghies as well as models with it.
Yeah got some of this gorilla glue, the trick is just to use a little as it tends to look a bit ugly when it foams up ! but I suppose it does the job. The other problem I have is that a part of the rear hull has got oil or something like that on it and the glue dint really want to stick, is there anything I can put on the wood to draw the oil out.
Thanks
Biscuit.