Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: MGrob on November 30, 2007, 10:57:40 am
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Hi all, here is the progress of my smit nederland build. Have always wanted a tug and with recent restoration to one of my other boats i thought i'd give building a kit ago.
any help and ideas about the build will be much appreciated, cheers...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/Hull.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300564.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300607.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300647.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300648.jpg)
all the best
Rob
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Welcome to the forum and keep up the good work,and DEFINATLY keep posting the build as it goes along
Stavros
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Yer doing well with the wee Smit....keep it up! O0
One of the very common failings with this model is that people fail to work at filling the grain, time spent there will lift the boat above the chaff.
Sometimes after a period of time the ply deck can sag, I find that fitting some triangles....like the bulwarks, below the deck goes some way to stopping this.
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cheers for the advice, and more pics to come soon.
i have heard before that the deck can warp so i already have placed triangler pieces under the deck to help prevent this.
not much more to do until primer, will keep you posted
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Looking good Rob! O0
NB. What is that around the hull bows in photoo 3?
Martin
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sorry if im gonna sound dumb, but what area of the bow are you looking at? and is there something wrong?
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Hi Rob, She is looking good and I will follow the build with interest. As I have not built one of these from scratch but only refurbished one a thought comes to mind. I am struggling to find a way of sealing the hatch on mine with out making it too ugly and I am keen to avoid doing a 'Tug Kenny' on the first sailing. I think it might worth considering how to fix and seal the hatch now before you go too far and I am sure there is lots of good advice out there. Cheers Graham. O0
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I'm restoring one at the moment, Captain. I'm off to work in a few minutes (got to do something while yet more paint dries on the deck) but I'll post a pic of how I've done it later tonight.
Andy
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the hatch on this tug has concerned me, and any ideas would be great.
seems like a bad design but would be great to see how Andy has done his
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Looking good Rob! O0
NB. What is that around the hull bows in photoo 3?
Martin
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ahhhhh i now see what you were looking at.
theres no problem there, it was the reflection of the water from the pond.
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{-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Martin O0
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I want to use mine for towing, and obviously the deck would just pull off! :-\
So I put a wooden 'lip' at the rear of the opening, glued and bolted. The deck slides under this and is held firm. The next step is to add brass turnbuttons port and starboard, just aft of the superstructure. These will turn through 90 degrees in use and clamp the deck in place at that point. I don't think it will move! Finally, I've either got to remove the winch and bollards and replace them with ones that are not just glued in place - or, and this is the preferred option, drill through the deck, very carefully, into the bitts and winch and screw them in place.
Haven't done the turnbuttons yet, but I'll post some pix when I do. The bolt heads in both cases will be covered with black plastic caps.
Andy
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Hi Rob, very nice looking boat, will be interesting to see the progress. ;) ;)
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You may find that rigours of towing will pull the stern, or at least the aft quarters clear under water from time to time, my remedy was to seal the hatch with clear 'Freezer Tape'...got mine from a chap who advertises on Ebay in the model boat section from time to time, but I may have his email if required.
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cheers for the advice Andy....
has certainly given me some ideas of my own to seal the hatch compartment.
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hi guys, done some more to the build last night and this morning.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300806.jpg)
started detailing the bridge and finishing the shaping of the roof
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300807.jpg)
the roof section took some shaping. but finally happy with how its come out.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300808.jpg)
also made the air vents
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300810.jpg)
and made 1 of the 2 exhaust stacks
will soon be time to put down some primer and give her some colours
Rob O0
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Hi Rob and all the other contributors particularly on the hatch sealing. Some good ideas there. Rob while I think about it if you are planning to make radar rotate it would be worth thinking about it now. I did manage to retrofit mine as part of the refurb but it was a bit awkward with the cabins etc all fitted to the deck. Cheers Graham. O0
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to all of you wood boat builders LOTS of sanding sealer then body filler
billings wood grain is so hard to cover up. not so bad if your boat is
suppose to be wooden but these are steel tug.
just some advise O0 the boat is looking great
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plenty of sanding sealer at the ready,, O0
i have also got the radar working now thanks from the advice from Captain Povey ;)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300814.jpg?t=1196616112)
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Now here's a puzzler for me that I'm sure someone will know the answer to.
Having now completed all the refitting and repainting of the main deck, bulwarks and fittings, I'm looking at repainting the hull itself. The original owner sure goofed this, starting by not using a primer coat. Then, measuring from main deck level, at the front end of the main freeing port, down to the top of the boot topping and plimsoll line on the starboard side, it's 70mm, but on the port side only 60mm. Can someone tell me what this measurement should be please? is it shown on the plans (which, of course, I don't have!)
Cheers
Andy
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Try these:-
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Thanks Banjo. O0 I was afraid it would be something like that, so it's going to be a complete strip and repaint. :(
Next question has to be - what's best for stripping enamel, or should I just rub down slightly, prime and then spray?
Thanks
Andy
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Stavos is the painting expert ...see some of his paint threads...
If it was mine I would use lots of elbow grease, wet and dry lots of soapy water and cut it back till the white showed through.
Then use Plasti-Kote spray undercoat then the MATT SUPER....
I'd avoid high gloss finish at all costs..
but I'm no expert...
O0
TRY http://www.abcmodelsport.net/p390562/MODELSTRIP.html
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Hi Andy, I was going to say that as a guide, with my boat on the table the height to the water line from the bottom, measured at the middle of the length is 95mm but Banjo beat me to it with a more accurate method. I am no expert on painting and there are plenty on here who are and a quick search of the topic will give you loads of info. For my own boat I decided that stripping was not an option. I was afraid that any solvent good enough to remove enamel would probably also melt the hull. I just gave it a good rub down and repainted. It was brushed on as I do not have a spray gun. Cheers Graham. O0
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Sorry Graham
I got the plans!!!!!!!!!!!!
;D
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Yes banjo I had a little chuckle about that myself. ;)
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"We are on this earth to help others"
My questions is "What are the others here for?"
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Banjo Cor thanks for the vote of confidance
Meechingman see new thread on stripping
Stavros
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Link: Paint stripping (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7612.msg73532;topicseen#msg73532)
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OOPS now who got that one wrong yes ME it should as Martin has pointed out have been PAINT STRIPPING sorry cant be right all the time ;)
Stavros
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Thanks guys O0 - I'll do all the double entendres about stripping in the shed with SWMBO - won't get me anywhere, except out in the shed!
Andy
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i need to paint the inside of the cabin/bridge, but havnt a clue which colours are true to scale....
any ideas?
Rob
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Sorry Rob, I haven't a clue about the colours in the cabin as mine was already done and I think is just white. To do it now would be a bit like copying the gynecologist who decorated his hall and stairs through the letter box. Cheers Graham.
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hehe {-)
yea, the windows are not massivley big.... i have made mine so the top of the cabin removes, as does the top on whicth the whole cabin sits.
been busy priming, sanding, priming some more...well you get the picture O0
Rob
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Rolls on the floor laughing!!!!
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hi found this web site that has happy hunter now smit hunter on it . It shows the inside of the wheel house hope it is of some use john
http://www.tugboats.de/index2e.html
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Here's a few more ..... http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Gallery/Smit_Nederland/index.htm (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Gallery/Smit_Nederland/index.htm)
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Thanks for that link, Martin. O0 How the heck did I miss that lot! :embarrassed:
Andy
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some really good pics there....will help me alot
nice one O0
Rob
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Hello and seasons greetings to you all. Having had a good think about it and seen some other ideas I finally got down to fixing down the hatch on my Smit N. The first picture shows a 'beam' glued and screwed to the back of the hatch under the hatch deck. It is positioned so that when fitting the hatch, sliding it back places the beam under the rear deck of the hull and stops the deck lifting. I am not planning to tow so I think it will be sufficiently strong for normal use. I cannot claim the the next idea is mine but is the result of a discussion with a very nice gentleman on the Droitwich Spa Modelboat club stand at Warwick. He is also refubing a Smit N and we talked about the hatch fixing. I think I have done what he was suggesting, so I thank him for that. I removed the two winch pulleys fitted to the two uprights at the front of the superstructure, drilled and tapped them 4BA and fitted two long studs. I then drilled down through the uprights and refitted the pulleys. I then made two bent latches and lock nutted them to the ends of the 4BA studs. When the hatch is fitted a quarter turn on each of the pulleys puts the latches under the front deck. I am still dithering about sealing the hatch and think I have three main ways to choose from. The first, favorite for ease and simplicity (if I can find some tape) is to us freezer tape or similaras has been suggested in an earlier posting. The second is I think mentioned in the 'Stavros builds a springer' where he describes using Silicon sealer and Vaseline or cling film to form a seal which is fixed to the hull but not the latch. So thanks for that Stavros however I am note sure how good I am with the sealer (you should see my bath) so I may have to practice a bit first. Thirdly I have found a PVC strip which is used on old cars where the wings are bolted on. Cut down it could be fitted in gap between the hatch and the deck. It is available by the metre from a company called Woolies at a reasonable price. The problem I have with this idea is how to accurately enlarge the gap to fit the seal. Suggestions are again more than welcome. Cheers Graham. :)
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I am looking at the latch mechanism and wondering if you would not get a tighter fit with those springy bits fitted the other way round?
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I'm thinking that I might re design the deck access on my re furb; make it like my Tito, with a screwed down, water tight hatch and the day to day access under the main superstructure. Then I could have a raised combing inside there and avoid this water problem.
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Hi Banjo, Yes I did think that the other way might be better but it did not seem to make much difference as they are not very springy. I think your screwed down hatch idea good and probably the safest. Please post some pictures if you do it. Thanks Graham. O0
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Graham
Its a work in progress NOT
at the moment I'm waiting for a Kort and some other bits and pieces from Billings. Then I can get the running gear in and think about fitting the deck etc.
I'm playing with a Kingston moulding Fire boat, a Tito Neri thats not completely finished and this shipwreck Smit as well.
Did I tell you that when I went to clear the dust and grime off it in the bath, the glue holding the deck on all gave up the ghost. It turned out it had been fitted without the extra flashing been cut off. {-) (Umi said it gave it more capacity when I told her) so that all came off.
The 6 v Decaperms were loose in the hull, as well as the shafts and rudders, never been fitted. Brand new and dusty.
Ah well it was my turn to have a lucky find!
O0
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Hi fellas,
not been able do much latey but started painting...
heres the progress.....paint still wet on the green so looks glossy, but used matt
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300815.jpg)
Rob
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O0
Looking Good
O0
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Hi Rob, Well you have done a lot more than me at this time of year and it is looking good. Cheers Graham. O0
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now xmas out of the way i have had chance get the old paint out
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300847.jpg)
coming along nicely but still loads to do O0
Rob
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Hi Rob starting to come together now and looking real good.
Keep up the good work, Mark.
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Looking good.
I'm also now back in painting mode, still using SWMBO's kitchen table (with permission :angel:) so it's onions cut up in a bowl of water :'( and a slightly open window to get rid of the smell. I have a feeling some of the Humbrol paints I bought must have been old stock. They cover OK but some of them stink a bit. Pix to come when I've done a bit more.
Andy
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All the boats are lookin fab guys ;D theirs some really nice builds on here
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well after working the dreaded night shift and rolling out of bed i grabbed the paint brushes and did some more....
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300851.jpg)
wont be long till she gets to sit in the water
just need weather get better so can get outside and clear coat the hull
O0 O0 O0
Rob
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MGrob tell me why on earth do you want to clearcoat the hull
Stavros
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i wasnt happy with the effect of the matt on the hull and just sitting on the bench the red oxide primer was getting scratched, so I am adding a semi gloss clear coat to add bit of protection...
was told to do this by a guy at last years model boat show at warwickshire, and looked good on his smitt
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I'm also thinking of adding a clear coat, to protect the plimsoll line, depth markings and white boot topping stripe.
Andy
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Sorry lads but a tug with clearcoat has no character little marks on the paintwork means that it is used and not a museum piece,or lest put it another way.When have you seen a Tug with SHINY paintwork.
Stavros
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Theirs a tug with sinnie paint work up there ^ ojoj lol
Imo it looks rather nice with that paint ;)
all the best
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Sorry lads but a tug with clearcoat has no character little marks on the paintwork means that it is used and not a museum piece,or lest put it another way.When have you seen a Tug with SHINY paintwork.
Stavros
1) My late father's tug, when he was skipper. He had the lads chipping and painting whenever the tug was idle.
2) There are a couple of tugs over in Sydney that ARE shiny and kept that way. Pix over on Ships Nostalgia
3) Yes, there are some museum tugs as well! ;)
Besides, I've already got two that look 'used', I've gone for the 'just out of refit' look!
Chacun a son gout, as they say across the channel.
Andy
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4) it adds a sense of class O0
Sure is lookin grand
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thanks for the comments guys O0
just to let you know the painting is a pain staking process but sure is looking good now...just waiting on the postman for electrics and some other small bits
and also my father has just got himself a smit nederland also, so will also post pictures of his build process too
all the best
Rob
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just few more pics, sorry bout the light
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300852.jpg)
mine on the left, and dads on the right...we didnt want to give them the same names so we flipped a coin lol
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300853.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300854.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300855.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300856.jpg)
just a small collection of bits still needing to go on, many many brass bits to fit...oh what fun O0
Rob
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Very tidy. Excellent build.
What shade of green did you use. I like this one. I find the greens has such a variation, that I've been looking for the suitable shade like this one.
Cheers...ken
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i used Humbrol matt 120 shade of green....
not quite sure on the darker green, but both look good
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Yup, painting just seems to go on and on. Trouble with mine is that I can't (or more like I don't want to) disassemble everything, so there's been some damn fiddly painting going on. The hull and main deck's all done. I'm now doing the superstructure, working from the top down. So I started with the radio aerial, went down the mast and so on. Currently on the deck around the bridge, second coat going on tonight. Yes, I know I've missed a bit on the roof, that's for the fire monitor.
Shiny tug? Like I said, right out of the yard and as someone else said - looks cool.
Andy
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gave painting a miss this weekend and started building some more of the fiddly bits...
adding window frames, not as easy as it sounds
adding detail to cabin
and finally got round to making winch as i have been putting this off for weeks and weeks
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300870.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300869.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300868.jpg)
adding the fins to the electric motor....glue went everywhere lol
Rob
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few more pics
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300874.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300875.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300876.jpg)
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Wow!! O0
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Looks ace :) cant wait to see some pics of her on the water O0
all the best
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Very clean cut and smart. Well done O0
Ken
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just a quick update on todays tasks completed
-hand rails port and starboard made, painted and fitted
-finished exhuast stacks with working smoke generators...graupner
-soaked rope for winch in coffee and dried, fitted to winch
and few more odds and sods
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300885.jpg)
picture of exhaust stack with smoke coming soon....
Rob
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What are you using in the way of motors?
Is there a "good" way of fixing the motors to that very thin part 37 Sole Plate?
I'm STILL waiting for my bits and pieces from Billings. The reason now for the delay, they say, is because they exported themselves to Germany.
I bit of Teutonic organisation will do them good!
Keep up the good work,
Regards,
a very envious Banjo
O0
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i have got a pair of torpedo 500 motors, and i agree the base plate is very thin
i am using the mounts tht come with the motors but will have to mount them inverted as the prop shafts enter the hull horizontally and the universal joint will not run...but inverted the whole unit will set dead level with no bends or variations so hopefully making running alot smoother.
just need to organise some batteries for the different lights and other electrical bits
Rob
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Hearing that I presume your not running geared motors?
Cornwall Model Boats do a power pack for this model complete with gears.
I think they need to gear down to drive a big prop. Mine came with Marx Decaperms, which have a 2:1 reduction.
I wonder what other folk are using?
???
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as promised here is the pic of my working funnels
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300881.jpg)
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Smoking nicely! "No smoke - no power!", as they say over on the Tugspotters Forum.
You use coffee to colour your ropes? That's where I've been going wrong, I've been using tea! {-)
Andy
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found this photo on the net thouht it might be of use
john
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nice one cos918 / john
O0 O0 O0
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Hi All, My old Smitty came with no base board so I decided to use an old coffee tabel top that was thick enough to scew all sorts of stuff onto. There may be some pictures on a previous post. Cheers Graham
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hi guys....have been busy once again
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300889.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300892.jpg)
top hand rails complteted, also in view is a map on the navigation tabke inside the cabin
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300890.jpg)
front anchor winch completed
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300891.jpg)
and some more deck detail
Rob
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very nice well finished
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Well, I finally finished all the external rebuild and repainting. :)
If it would come off undamaged it did. If it wouldn't, it had to stay put and be painted in situ. (Cue the construction of some right-angled paintbrushes!) Anyway, she now bears the livery of my Haven Towage fleet.
MGrob, where did you get the decals for the anchor windlass and the oil drums etc? I haven't been able to find any.
Next step is the update of the electrics and running gear. The Becker rudders have been rebuilt and, apart from the motors, shafts and props, everything else has been removed. Motors are 540's so I think I'll be OK with two Mtroniks Viper 15 ESC's. RC gear will be a 6 ch Futaba 6EXA, so later on I can add a bow thruster, working winch and then get that fire monitor to squirt. (That's next winter's project.) I'll also be able to set up two programmes, one twin stick throttle plus rudder and one with single stick throttle, with internal mixing for combined movements of throttle and rudder.
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that looks really good
good work
O0 O0 O0
can't wait to get my baby finished and on the water
Rob
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well have started wiring up many many lights, gonna take me a while but did the easy one 1st
;D
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7300895.jpg)
Rob
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That looks cool. Internal lighting and nav lights should be straightforward enough, but how are you going to hide the wires for the mast lights? I was thinking about lighting but the mast light 'issue' put me off.
Andy
PS. Can you tell me where the decals for the oil drums etc came from please.
Thanks
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i have thought about the 7 or so lights on the mast over the past few days and done some tests.
I will prob use 2 brass rods (painted balck eventually) as a positive and negative either side of the mast. This then i hope will blend in with the rigging wires, and just run very short wires from the lights to the brass rods, and have the power running to them that way...i hope that makes sense.
as for the decals my mate bobinnit found them and sent me them via pc....here is the picture
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/labels.jpg?t=1203975544
all i did was print onto sticky back paper and sprayed with clear gloss to help protecty from water, then applied to the boat with a external pvc glue that dried clear.
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Just started my own build and came across a problem.
The deck appears to be about 8mm to long for the hull and I can not get it too fit. Did you have any probs like this
Thanks
:'(
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MGrob
Most full size ships have the wiring external to the mast including junction boxes etc, might be worth checking some pics of the full size ships mast to see the wiring runs.
Bob
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Just started my own build and came across a problem.
The deck appears to be about 8mm to long for the hull and I can not get it too fit. Did you have any probs like this
Thanks
:'(
yeh i had the same problem, just had to do alot of shaping and sanding to make a good snug fit.
there may be a few more bits and pieces that have the same problem
all the best
Rob
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O0
"there may be a few more bits and pieces that have the same problem"
Your right about that....I didn't count but I'd say more than not...
;D
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With all the painting done it was time to install all the new electrics. Futaba T6EXA plus 2 Viper 15's were put in, all new wiring and switches coupled up.
It took a while to get set up (and I'm sure that the TX can do a few more tricks once I've deciphered the manual) but it all works just fine. I've had to limit the rudder throw to 55% on the TX, as full throw pulled the linking pins out of the Becker rudders. The model seems to use the stock rudder linkages so I can't think of any other way to do this.
I have noticed that both Vipers emit a high pitched whine when non absolutely off. If this is normal for them, fair enough, but is it? I have another tug with the same sort of ESC (but older) and it's silent.
Anyway it was time for the bath test tonight. With the weights that were in her when I bought her, she's just a little light at the bow and needs a touch of weight on the starboard side to bring her dead level. I'll buy some of that replacement for lead shot for the angling shop tomorrow and put that in a small coin bag so I can get the weight just right and then mould it to the shape of the insides of the bow.
I couldn't resist giving the motors a little work out. Blimey, she almost leapt out of the bath. I've got a 540 in one of my other tugs with a similar direct drive arrangment and prop and kort type/size. That 540 doesn't kick a** like these ones do. I have a feeling that they may not be 540's after all. There's no markings on them. Is there a way to tell?
Anyway, she was a dry as a bone inside after an hour and her BP (Bath Pull) is impressive. Passed with flying colours. Next up is sea trials and I'll post some pix when they're done.
Andy G
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My Mtronics do exactly the same on the Happy Hunter if you play around with the trim I usually can get mine to shut up so to speak but as I said DON'T WORRY
Stavros
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well after months of degect i started working on the smit again....
some things have taken me away from it...lets just say a few more boats have joined the fleet :D
got some of the bits i need from doncaster show and wings and wheels......pics to come shortly
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have started on the mast today, and some of the odd wiring jobs for the many lights...
will have pic of overall tug when weather better outside.....and maybe a pic of her on the water O0
here is the mast assembly
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7301159.jpg)
Rob
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had her on the water today to test ballast.
looks good sitting on the water but them orange whales thought it was feeding time {-)
heres few piccies
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7301160.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd237/mgrob/S7301161.jpg)
still got quite bit to do, but theres light at the end of the tunnel ;D
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O0
That is magnificent.
Re the mast and the "lamps" have you put leds in those?
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no, once i started making the mast i gave up trying put bulbs in....but will have 1 working LED at the very top tho.
working lights will be as follows:
front search light
port and starboard nav lights
rear search lighs
spot lights on back of exhuast stacks
internal lighting top and through port holes
and nearly forgot mention working (smoking) exhuast stacks
think that enough
at the moment just doing all the rigging.
once all lights are working will have a nice night piccie
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O0
There are some small brass fittings that go into the bulwarks where the tyre fixings go.... whats the part number for those please?
They are like shoe lace eyelets
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O0
There are some small brass fittings that go into the bulwarks where the tyre fixings go.... whats the part number for those please?
They are like shoe lace eyelets
i believe the part number is F317
hope that helps
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O0
Thanks a lot..I thought that.... and yours is a recent kit isn't it?
On the Cornwall Model Boats website it comes up as a 4mm brass porthole!!
I'll have to have a word with Malcolm...
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mine the old kit....no markings on ply sheets, all had to be measured from the plans for placement of almost everything.
just checked billings site for fittings and comes up 4mm brass porthole
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;D
Its what I've come to expect from that company....chaos
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lets not talk bad about billings (it's not there fault the owner is a D!$$) >>:-(
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MgRob
That sure does look good. O0
I chickened out when it came to putting in working lights, but might have a go this winter. Would be nice to do a night sail with her.
Andy