Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Other Technical Questions... => Topic started by: flag-d on June 30, 2006, 10:43:37 pm
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I always thought it wasn't possible to solder white metal fittings, but am I right in thinking this? I have managed to snap a couple of stanchions on my MTB and would like to solder them back together rather than re-fit. If I can do this...how?
Waiting in hope!
Mike
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Many years ago, when I used to be a railway modeller, building Wills "Finecast" whitemetal kits, there was an LMP (low melting point) solder that was recommended.
I never used it, being in the RAF with an unlimited supply of free Araldite. Then one day I foolishly put a LNWR "Jumbo" in an oven to cure! You can guess the rest!!!
Perhaps LMP solder is still available.
Rick
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Langley Models - Model Railway suppliers (of Crawley - West Sussex) http://www.langleymodels.co.uk/acatalog/index.htm do stock low melt solder packs (about 70 odd degrees c I think) for white metal kits.
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ANY model railway shop will have low melt solder in stock for their engine kit builders. It also comes in different melting point temperatures and is best used with a variable temperature soldering iron, or you need to be very fast not to melt the parts!!!!
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I've been experimenting with soldering white metal recently and have found Chronos Ltd to stock everything that's needed and are fast on deliveries too. Here's a link to their solder supplies page - Chronos solder page (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Carrs_Solders___Fluxes___etc_189.html&CatalogBody).
You really should use the correct flux for the 70 degree solder, as white metal oxidises very quickly and the flux is designed to cut through that.
I also invested in a temperature controlled soldering iron which has proved to be invaluable. I tried the normal iron first, just holding it on the white metal for the briefest period, and trying to remove it before it melted the white metal, but it's a very hit-and-miss technique and not to be recommended.
It's really straightforward using the temperature controlled iron, the correct solder and the right flux ;D
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Use Carrs no clean solder cream...
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cand l finescale stock a range.