Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Detail Work, Rigging, Fittings, Figures Etc. => Topic started by: dannymax on July 01, 2006, 08:57:40 am
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I know this is probably very simple but when scale kits have ropes coiled on the deck and then attached to the bollards how do you do this?... I imagine rope stuck everywhere and glue marks all over the deck..
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Coil the rope on a piece of paper, you can use pins to hold in place, glue the rope together, I use thin superglue, remove from paper.
If you havent used much glue it shouldnt stick to thr paper, if it does, gently rub paper away with fine sandpaper.
If you are GENTLE the rope will stay coiled, glue to deck as any other fitting.
If you want free end to go round bollard, as before but leave a long tail.
Put rope around bollard in figure of 8 and apply small amount of superglue to rope end with a cocktail stick.
Done
Bob
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If you buy a stick of beeswax from chemist and rub it on paper first nothing will stick to it !
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Thanks guys... new there had to be a logical way to do it, just had a fixation in my head that I would have to do it in situ on the deck and would end up making a mess of the deck...
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Depending on what type of craft you have, of course, maybe less than perfect circles would be more realistic. :D
Andy
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Depending on what type of craft you have, of course, maybe less than perfect circles would be more realistic.? :D
Andy
I second that, those perfect spirals that look more like door mats are strictly for 'tiddley' yachts and the like, not working vessels
MikeK
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I was going to suggest the "coil on paper" solution so now will just add.....I sometimes leave the rope stuck to the paper and just trim back the paper from the last coil so that it does not show when in place on the deck. This has the advantage of a more robust item to handle and makes securing to the deck with a smaller dab of glue possible.
Roger in fance.
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Or just buy them ready made:
http://www.georgeturnermodels.com/index.php?page=shopping&shop_cat_id=6
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My crew put them all away for me after casting off...
Mike
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That man needs a haircut ..........nice bit of detailing
Cheers
Bob B
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They look happy in there work..
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The bloke on the right looks ecstatic -? what's he up to with that hidden left hand ?? ::) ::)
Best regards
MikeK
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Tempted to say he's playing with his torpedo... :D
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Tempted to say he's playing with his torpedo...? :D
"Is that a rope in your hand, or are you just pleased to see me?"
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Hellooo Sailor !!!
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Is that Master Mate and Seaman Stains? ;D
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Give us a kiss and I'll tell you !! ;D
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Is that Master Mate and Seaman Stains?? ;D
No hes a new cabin boy...Roger I believe his name is..
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Hello, I hope this does not sound a facetious question but, what is the best method of scratch building realistic-looking rope.? Ray
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Maybe not the best, but the easiest way is to buy it! Usually available up to 2mm diameter from most of the on-line period ship firms
Rick
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Coil and stick with liquid poly to thin plasticard. When dry trim plasticard back under rope and stick down where needed :) :)
See attached photo. ;)
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Try taking about 2 meters of a suitably coloured thread and tie one end to a fixed point - grip other end in your drill/ dremel chuck. Keeping it taut switch on and rotate at a slowish speed until you feel the thread beginnng to shorten. It will feel a bit stretchy at this point. Now the slightly awkward bit - keeping everything taut - hold the middle of the length and bring the end you've released fom the chuck beside the fixed end. Holding these together and still keeping things taut gently twist. The two pieces of thread should wind around each other giving a fair representation of rope. By using two thicknesses of thread of different shades you can produce heavier rope and silver and black thread combined give something resembling wire rope
HTH
Best Wishes
Douglas
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Thanks for all the advice regarding model rope making. Cheers. Ray
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Halcyon, maybe I can be of help, check out my website, www.macsmouldings.co.uk (http://www.macsmouldings.co.uk) , perfectly coiled rope ,differant scales, and cheap.
regards,
Martin
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Perfect spirals are considered poor seamanship in the real world.
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Having been at sea now for thirty years I can safely say I have never seen a perfectly spiralled coil of rope on a deck.
All the ropes I have ever encountered are stored on the deck on duckboards or pallets, to keep them off the wet deck, and are coiled around and piled up in a neat oval shape. A flat spiral of rope would never have enough length to reach the quay so I would only expect to see them on such vessels as a yacht.
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Hi Bunkerbarge,
Our Tugs coil the ropes a lot ready for next use.
But if going to sea they are put away in the Bosuns Store.
Bob
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Bob, Thanks for the addition. Is that coiled in a flat spiral on the deck then or coiled in a pile?
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On some of the tugs the mate used to go mad if they werent tidy, others couldnt care less.
Depends on the crew.
Bob
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If you don't have a model shop nearby to get rope from - call in a local DIY hardware store and get picture frame hanging cord - it comes in all sizes and looks ok on deck. If you don't have a local hardware store - hmmm well.......
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GAWD! I had to jump in here on this thread! Not trying to be snooty or anything, but being an old "deck ape", in the merchant fleet, I can't recall ever seeing a line "coiled" on a working vessel. If it's realism you're after, you want to store your line "faked", or "fayed", so it properly pays out as you need it without fouling. And notice I used the word "line", and not rope, as it's properly called a line once it crosses the gunnel from the dock. There is no such thing as a "rope" on a vessel. At any rate, google those two terms, and you can see pics of how it's done. As far as modeling it, you can save yourself a lot of trouble by using wax paper while you're gluing it down, and you won't have to trim or sand anything, as cyano, epoxies, or any other adhesives won't stick to it.
Lordy, as I proof read this post, it did sound kinda snooty, sorry for that, but please take it in the tone as it was meant to be an informative help, and not preaching.
Fair winds, and following seas....
Capt Jack>>>>>>sends
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hi
George Turner models makes resin rope coils in various sizes.
you should find him in the traders directory on this site.
gary
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hi guys.
just to reviv the thread with some terms..........from
Marlinespike - Terminolgy
Bitter end:
the free end of a line
Standing part:
the longer part of a line which is fixed during the tying of a knot
Bight:
The part of the rope between the end and the standing part. A loop formed by folding the rope back on itself
Turn:
a loop formed around a post, rail, or the line itself
Crossing Turn:
a circle of rope made by crossing the rope over itself
Loop:
a circle of rope made by bringing two parts of the rope together without crossing them over each other
Splice:
weaving strands of a line to itself or to a second piece of line
Whipping:
wrapping twine or tape around line to line’s end to prevent unraveling
Seizing:
wrapping twine or tape around two lines to bind two parts of line side by side
Worming:
laying smaller line in the spiral grooves (with the lay) between line strands
Parcelling:
winding strips of canvas over, and in the same direction as, worming
Serving:
winding small line against the lay and over worming and parcelling to protect line from chafe and water damage
Flemish:
to make a Flemish coil by taking the end of a line and laying it in a tight flat spiral on the deck. Used to "tidy" up and keep line neat
Faking:
laying a line on deck in a series figure eights so the line will run free without tangling
Flaking:
laying out line on deck in parallel rows. Don’t confuse with faking.
Short splice:
the strongest way to connect two lines. This splice has 6 strands in the cross section and is thick and may not run through a block
Long splice:
the strand of one line replaces the strand of the other line. The size of line is kept the same however, and it is weaker than the short splice
Eye splice:
stronger than any knot in forming a loop in a line
Thimble:
a metal or plastic form inserted in the eye splice to prevent chafe
Back splice:
splicing a line back on itself to prevent unraveling - it like the short splice has a cross section of 6 strands and may not be able to be pulled through a block
Eye:
A loop made in the end of a rope either by knotting, seizing or splicing.
Coil:
Rope made into a neat series of loops or circles, usually for storing.
so does this cloud the issues more? we are after some authenticity eh?
unless you are of coarse building a flashy yacht
regards
don
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Surely a 'crossing' turn is really a riding turn
or is it?
Ned