Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Wood Care: => Topic started by: kayem on July 07, 2006, 09:30:04 am
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A Top Tip. Like most modellers, I seem to spend about half my time in the workshop sanding and rubbing down, and I get through acres of abrasive papers of various kinds. Most modelling is small-scale stuff, so much of this is done with small, sometimes tiny, strips and squares of paper wrapped around my collection of small purpose made balsa blocks (always use a block, never just hold the paper in your hand, quickest way to ruin a model, and known as finger-f*ck*ng in some trades). All paper has the # number printed on the back, but very few of your small pieces will be so marked, and you usually want to keep on moving down to a finer grade. Can you tell the difference between two small, possibly used scraps of #320 & #400 wet & dry? Can you tell the difference between a new piece of #180 silicon carbide and a slightly used scrap of #120? These differences are important, you don't want to use the wrong one, so here's the tip. I keep a fine black permanent marker on my workbench, and always write the grade on the back of every scrap of new paper when I cut if from the sheet or roll. Then you'll always know which grade of paper you're using, and the marking is unaffected by water in the case of wet & dry.
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Hi... I stick my small squares of wet 'n dry to bits of quarter inch balsa, matchsticks, cocktail sticks - anything - as long as it suits the job in hand. After use, I can wash 'em and leave 'em to dry!
They do a great job, couldn't do with out them to be honest. You do have to make sure the the wet 'n dry is glued snugly up to the edge of the 'block' - best way is to put the glue around the edge of the block (but not too close to the edge!) and in the centre, place the abrasive paper down onto the block and then when dry, cut closely around the edge of the block with a craft blade - hey presto - done!
I reckon these are easier to use and you can write the grade etc on the back of the block if you feel the need to!
Cheers, Brian
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Certainly sounds as if you're determined to get full value for money from your wet & dry ambernblu. They sound like useful items alright, but I've found that paper picks up small lumps of waste etc in use, and these can leave marks on the item you're sanding, so it's best to replace the stuff fairly frequently. Also it loses much of it's bite after being used a few times.
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I just got to add... Always use a mask, like all ways.
[Lungs gone rest going fast]
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I try to keep my wet and dry paper soaking in water when not in use for short periods as it helps to soften anything caught in the grit and when you reuse it it will fall out and not leave those pesky little lines..
Roy
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We all know that we should use a sharp knife instead of blunt: and this applies to sanding down too. You'd be surprised how short the 'cutting' life of abrasives can be, even wet and dry types. Once the 'cutting' life is exceeded, then all the abrasive does is 'tear' the surface, not cut it.
Part of my job involves preparing metal samples for microscopic examination which essentially means polishing them to a mirror finish. I can easily use 100's of sheets of silicon carbide paper in a day, from #60 to #2500 grit. Each sheet (10" dia) has a cutting life of 90 secs and these metal samples are small (less than 1sq cm) and we're not talking high speeds and high pressures here!
Mike
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That would be one part of my job that I would delegate out as I loathe and detest sanding, but it does have to be done...
Roy