Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: banjo on March 17, 2008, 09:35:26 pm
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I've got an early Christmas present.
A Smit Nederland Tug, much loved once I think but never got to do its bit on a pond. Its one of the very early editions, none of the wooden parts are laser cut, just ink printed onto the wood.
Over time various parties seem to have "had a go" at it, there are several skill levels evident in the build as it is. They didn't have the backing of the Model Mayhemers.
Now I'm going to "have a go"
HOWEVER; and this is where my title arises, I am seriously short of some parts.
I have one Kort, broken but useful as a pattern, the Becker rudders are missing the bottom fixings tying them into the Kort's, any sort of plans, and lots of other minor parts.
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O0
I have to report some progress!
I thank Capt P for his help with plans, a gent in USA for helping me get kort nozzles, when Billings had failed, and various others on this Forum.
The first thing to do was soak off the glue from the deck. The original owner had neglected to trim the hull down to the requisite line. The hull has a lovely line from bow to stern; now the deck would not fit without reshaping.
When you take off the deck the hull reverts to being a plastic bag, all floppy!!
I have fitted out the hull with various bulkheads to strengthen it and allow a scratch build deck. (see pics)
Next jobby ..fit the running gear..
Watch this space:-...
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Glad to see that work is coming along Banjo. Just a thought. My rudder linkages would go right through your rather solid looking bulkheads. How are you arranging yours? ???
Andy
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Rudder linkage by:-
Bowden Cable ...that tiller flat is low maintenance; I intend to have two small hatches let into the deck, like my Tito, to give access to the rudder linkage.
The next space forward from there will be sealed.
The Korts are fitted and the Lady has some rouge on her bottom to cover previous blemishes....
;D
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:)
Whilst the paint was drying.....
I put the deck in the bath with very hot soapy water to soak off the bulkheads and other fittings. The deck would not bend to the curved shape required by the specs.
All the deck bits I have dried out, some to use as patterns for the rebuild. The deck ended up in the scrap box.
I have just been interupted by some sort of party goer..is this a special day or something?
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I have fitted the props and shafts.
I have a pair of un-run 6V Marx Decaperms, which came with the boat, and which the plans illustrate as fitted.
I have also 2 12V Marx Hectoperm motors, horded from times past.
Question:- Which should I choose?
???
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Motor choice - good question that I am not qualified to answer but I bet someone on here knows. Failing that I would get out the executive decision maker and shout heads. Cheers Graham. PS she is looking very good too.
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I have fitted the props and shafts.
I have a pair of un-run 6V Marx Decaperms, which came with the boat, and which the plans illustrate as fitted.
I have also 2 12V Marx Hectoperm motors, horded from times past.
Question:- Which should I choose?
???
Hi Banjo
I've also got some dec's and hecta's which I'm sittng on for now. I reckon the deca's will be more than adequate for the size of the boat. These were the norm when the kit was first out. Why don't you keep the hecta's for something a bit bigger. Two of those would drive a 48 inch tug very nicely. ...........
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Why not just use somr Graupner motors at 3000 rpm, deccaperms only run at 2750 through g/box and are electrically "Dirty" and noisey.
I used to use Deccaperms in large warships as it simulated the gas turbine whine quite well.
Bob
Bob
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I didn't want to buy new motors, a 48" boat won't go in my car!.... ::)
I was hoping someone would say "Yes go with the 12v Hectos...I did it in mine"
I'll wait a little longer..
Thanks for the input Bob and everyone..
alan
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Well I went with the "Big is Better!" option.
Two Marx Hectoperms running on 12V.
In a bath test, with a 12V 12ah Yuasa sitting in the space just fwd of the motors, she sat level fore & aft with sufficient lee way to complete the installation before she gets down to her marks.
It should pull!
;D
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O0
I have Bluebird to thank for his masterclass on the Cervia build for the next stage.
I fitted a 2mm plywood deck, using Z-Poxy 30 minute adhesive. This was installed as normal inside and "level" with the top of the shell of the hull. Weighed down with batteries etc it was left to cure overnight. I then smoothed off any protruding deck edges.
I had some plastic safety notices, redundant from a closing warehouse, 2mm X 45mm X 33mm. Using two of these I have fixed them, using the same adhesive, over the plywood. This time smoothing any protruding side edges. Together this has formed a fine, firm deck.
I will follow the same build line as the masterclass to fit the bulwarks then cut out the various deck openings.
The result in pics below.
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Well, with those motors, I don't think I'll be going into a tug of war contest with yours and mine, Banjo! We could always get you to tow the entire bunch of pedalos out of the way when the fast electric guys need more room.
Still waiting for a suitable gap in the weather for sea trials. Yesterday would have been ideal, but work spoiled that idea. Looks like next week sometime.
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O0
Thanks for the input Meechingman, I was beginning to think I had been "blackballed"
The reason behind the motors...I didn't want to have to buy new 6V batteries for the DecaPerms, I had the Hectoperms and lots of 12V batteries, I also have a Fleet Speetmaster FPS-24B ESC which seems able to handle any load I throw at it.
I hope it will "sit down" when under "full ahead" and get the stern wet! (see pic below)
;)
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Fitting the bulwarks..
Bluebird fits brass pins as a fixing and guide.
The original Smit kit provided supports with a tongue on the bottom which fitted, like a "blind tennon joint" into the deck. I have some of these. I wondered how difficult it would be to cut the "mortice". I thought 2 small holes close together then "cleaned up" would suffice....
Comments?
O0
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Thanks to Bluebird for his advice.
I am using a mixture of brass pinned and mortice and tennon to fit the bulwarks.
I soaked off the "useful" bits from the the old deck and have used those as templates. The "plastic" is an old redundant fire emergency "way out" arrow sign. So far so good!
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O0
Wood bending..while you wait...(weight)
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Finally made it over to Princes Park this afternoon for Denton's sea trials. Very pleased with the results. O0
She's a bit faster than I thought and those Becker rudders make her turn very sharply indeed. Not too much roll though, even on a high speed turn. I've gone for twin stick operation so far and she needs just a touch ahead and astern on opposite motors to spin, and adding rudder makes her turn on the spot.
I have to adjust the ballast just a little but other than that, she's all done.
Andy
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Very nice work you've done there, looks very clean O0
Looking forward to seeing the performance of those Marx motors, I have two Decaperms in 6v awaiting a future undecided tug project??? Always liked this kit!!!
Voyager
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Hi, She looks great. O0 I hope mine performs as well on its maiden voyage? 8) Whenever that is). What adjustments will you have to make to the ballast? I was advised to make her slightly high at the stern if towing. Cheers Graham
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O0
Thanks Boys,
Andy it looks super, if I can get mine near that standard I shall be happy.....
The Marx motors perform beautifully. if they do so in this hull we will have to wait and see....
Cornwall Model boats offer them as part of a "motorizing" package for their models. Expensive..but then they are the Rolls Royce option. (IMHO)
I have got the portside bulwarks stuck on..more pics to come.
:)
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Andy
I have an F14 Navy, I wasn't considering using it on this model, but now I shall.
Anyone got a bucshee RX for F14 they want to sell?
Were you thinking of lowering it just a little? The planned waterline does n't give much freeboard, which is why I have changed the decking plan somewhat. At the moment I got a solid top on it! That will be the next trauma..cutting out the various hatch openings..wherever...
O0
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Thanks for the kind comments.
As well as the 'main' ballast, I've got a few lead fishing weights blu-tacked in place. I have to add a touch on the starboard side to take out a very slight list to port. The other thing is to lighten the bow a tad. The bath test seemed to show her riding a little high so I added a couple of small weights to counteract this. On the lake, it looked like I've put a little too much in, so one weight will come out before next time.
Next winter's projects (already in mind) include fitting a bow thruster (not that she needs it) and, just possibly, a new inner deck and superstructure, so I can swap identities at will.
Until then, I'm going to enjoy her as she is. ;D
Andy
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Well.....
Here we are with the port side bulwark affixed. Its beginning to look like a model and less like a bit of old scrap....
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:)
Bulwarks on...a splash of undercoat..and "Hi Ern..You can't see the joint!"
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A lot better than mine were, rather a lot of filler and sanding to try to rectify them, and even now they're not as good as yours.
Looking at that plan behind the tug Banjo, are the bottoms of the anchors supposed to be below the waterline, then?
Andy
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O0
Yes!
I mentioned in my post above..."are you thinking of lowering it just a little"....
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Ah, now I follow your drift! Thanks for posting the pic of the plans. O0
No, If anything I'll raise the bow very slightly like I said. There aren't that many clear pix of this class of tug on the net (at least that I can find) but those I have seen seem to show the bows slightly higher and the anchor housing above the waterline. In fact I'm trying hard to think of any tugs I've seen where the anchors have been partly underwater. All a question of ballasting in real life and in scale too.
Andy
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The Bulwarks now having been fitted and given a coat of undercoat, I cut out the first hatch opening. This will have a combing fitted and the "deckhouse" will sit over. It is large enough to allow access for a 12V 12Ah Gel Cell.
An unexpected bonus during the "cutting out" was the opportunity to view the deck section which assured me that the "plastic", that I glued over the plywood decking had adhered well.
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:)
The hatches for access to the steering and drive line opened up and awaiting trimming. When the "lids" are fitted they should be unobtrusive (I hope) as there is plenty of gear about the stern to help disguise them
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:)
I have fitted the combing on the fore hatch, simple halving joints at the corners.
I will have to "adjust" the bottom of the deckhouse to snug fit this combing. The Civic pond in BasingGrad doesn't get very rough....If I am to venture abroad, may be Wales lookyou even, then I am led to believe it gets so wet there that boats have been known to founder!!! I can also fit a "lid" to this for any rough weather sailing... {-)
Ah well on with the motley
O0
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:)
Fitting the deckhouse...
When I first considered re decking this old wreck, and to move away from the long single hatch, the size of the deckhouse base really governed what I could do.
The original measurement from the deckhouse base I used to site the strengthening x beams in the hull. These then governed the size of the hatch opening and now the deckhouse sits snugly in place over the hatchway.
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:)
The internal width of the deckhouse had to be widened a little. I have fitted a lip to the forward combing of the hatch and the deckhouse snugs up to the combing under this. ( A more substantial lip will be fitted later)
The pics show the old deckhouse with a coating of thin plasticard over the old wood work.
I will fit some sort of latching mechanism to the aft of the deckhouse when I can think of one.
So far so good....
;D
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;D
It floats! The H2O stayed on the outside!
Some work to do on the superstructure now.....
8)
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Congratulations on the successful trial launch. O0 You are now ahead of me as I have only managed to float mine in the bath and just as well I did as I found out that it leaked. :o Anyway despite paying to join the local model boat club I still have not managed to get there yet and do any 'sea' trials. :'( Cheers Graham
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Nice build keep up the great work
R,
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Glad to see that the first sea trials went OK and you have a dry tug. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build.
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O0
Thanks for the input, much appreciated.
I found this badge, see pic, amongst my bits and pieces; it will fit nicely into the forward hawse (through which I noticed a lot of water comes inboard)
Smit Nederland re build is now the tug BASING-GRAD
{-)
PS It will also mean I don't have to stick rigidly to the plans!
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:)
This may be an "old hat" picture to some but it clearly shows the load marks. We have had some discussion in this thread about the waterline and the way Nederland "sits"
It is also worth noting that the port side "stairway" has vanished, the "half way up" landing now has some gubbins connected to a Foam proportionator at that level.
I am guesssing that this pic was a passage photo and Nederland was bound for some new station.
:)
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:)
Whilst the hull is drying(curing) I thought I'd do a bit on the superstructure.
The first pic just to remind myself what I started with...and the other two where I've got to so far......
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:)
Smit Nederland in its new paint job...
The deck to be attended to and the superstructure finished off, its all a bit too new but the final task, and the longest, will be the weathering. A long way to go yet.
Before & after....
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:)
Re Decking Smit Nederlands seems to be catching.....
I shall watch OldIron 's new thread to see how he does it...
::)
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:)
Meanwhile........ Did a bit on the deck....a touch of paint... thats the hydraulic winch being tried for size...and the lazy mans hatch covers over the steering and the steering servo...I will fit proper flush lids later.
There are Bits and hawse still to fit and some other "furniture"
There is the "before" picture..
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:)
Now for some electrics.....
An ESC for each motor, a power distribution board and a fuse board that glows!
The components were tested out of the boat, adding one unit at a time to the circuit. Everything that should glowed and hummed, but no action....I was using a 8 channel RX without the crystal!!, the real one was hiding under the mess on the bench. It all went perfectly after I had changed the RX.
I have mounted all the gizmos on a piece of perspex, using computer board "standoffs" for the power panel and the fuse board. The ESC are on the other side fixed with "stickies"
The board will be fixed in the square of the hatch under the superstructure. Power board and fuses uppermost.
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Blimey - where have I been all this time?
I didn't realise you were building that baby. VERY nice!
Regarding the fuzzy photos, if I'm not sticking my oar in where it's not wanted, do you have a macro button on your camera? Would the close-up images be less blurry if'n it were on? No offence meant - it's just that I had the same problem until some wag told me where I was going wrong.
On a slightly different note, do you mind if I ask you a personal question?
Your handle. Do you play the banjo?
Very nice work, Sir. Take a bow/bo'/bough.
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{-)
Which fuzzy pic? There are no macro buttons on a kodak brownie........
Perhaps I ought to go to spec savers
I have an insatiable liking for egg & bacon sarnies, banjos in the Army, someone noticed!!
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Ah, THAT sort of banjo. In that case I stand corrected. But if by some quirk of fate you should happen to know anyone that plays a 4-string or 5-string version, then puh-leeease kindly put me in touch.
Anyway, don't let me stop you from the real thing (don't forget the Daddies sauce and loads of pepper). Enjoy IT and your build..........
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:)
I have done some work on the superstructure.
Stanchions and rails....I have constructed them in situ...I will lay on the top rail and firm it all up with a touch of solder... (he said nonchalantly...prolly will be a disaster...watch this space)