Model Boat Mayhem

Masterclasses => CERVIA Tug Build => Topic started by: Martin [Admin] on March 23, 2008, 09:41:14 pm

Title: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Martin [Admin] on March 23, 2008, 09:41:14 pm

Please feel free to share your Questions and comments onTUG CERVIA HULL BUILD by Bluebird   build in this thread.

(  Build thread here:     TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8904.0)  )

Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: banjo on March 27, 2008, 09:53:04 am
 O0
A copy of my post in thread Smit Nederland build.....

Fitting the bulwarks..
Bluebird fits brass pins as a fixing and guide.
The original Smit kit provided supports with a tongue on the bottom which fitted, like a "blind tennon joint" into the deck.  I have some of these.  I wondered how difficult it would be to cut the "mortice".   I thought 2 small holes close together then "cleaned up" would suffice....

Comments?

 O0
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 27, 2008, 10:39:31 am
banjo Hi ya there

My immediate thought is - what is the material your original supports are made from; which you intend to use?  The reason I ask this is the hull you are working on is 48 inches long and your hull is a fair size.   When the model is finished floating on the lake, and coming alongside, first thing you make a grab for to pull it into the side are the bullwarks  :) or, is it just me that does that  :D {-) and, if the supports are not strong enough, you find that they snap off.

The other thing is, the idea of drilling two small holes and then cleaning out will work as long as you can keep them fairly neat - when I say neat, I refer to a nice 'push fit' for the tenon.   The other thing that springs to mind is; the length of the tenon - it should be long enough to go through the actual thickness of the deck and a good way through the supporting timbers or material under the deck.   What I had originally thought of, and this was not for the Cervia build, it was actually for HMS Leeds Castle, (when I did the bulwarks on that model), was to make the pins out of flat brass 1/8 inch wide by 1/16 inch thick and use Plasticard clad on either side, but, leaving sufficient brass at the bottom of the supports sticking out forming a tongue.  This is a possible solution, because, this will produce a fairly rigid support.

Hope this rambling garbage of mine is of some help to you  O0 O0

aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: banjo on March 27, 2008, 11:21:56 am
 O0
Thank you for your prompt reply.

A bit of history of this Smit build to start with...

I took the deck off the original because the builder hadn't trimmed the hull down to the marks, plus the fact that it all came to pieces quickly when submerged in water! (who knows what glue he had used)   I had to remove the bulwarks to get the deck to fit the curve of the newly trimmed hull.   I am using the old bits as patterns for the new.   The "very nice man" at Cornwall Model Boats was able to source some new bits and pieces from Billings which include the bulwark supports, all laser cut, but not a new deck.
So....I can go with the brass pins, as you used in your Cervia build or I can use the new supports which will involve cutting, wait while I count, 72 mortice holes!!  As you see the scope for a "cock up" along the way is immense.   I will still have to disguise the pins afterwards?

I really wanted you to say.."do it this way" it will be quicker and better!!

 ::)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 27, 2008, 02:28:19 pm
Hi there Banjo

If the bullwark supports, provided with the original kit and the spares you have, originally worked well apart from the breakdown of the glue, I cannot see any problems apart from the length of time it will take to complete this.  The only advantage really using the brass pin, as I did in the Cervia build, is that you just drill a round hole, the same size as the pin you are using.   This will have the same strength, if not be slightly stronger.

So, if it was I, I would go the brass pin way, but, that is just my opinion for what it is worth.   I am sure there are 100s who would disagree with me.

But, as FLJ would say, suits you Sir.  :D :D

aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: banjo on March 27, 2008, 02:56:23 pm
Thanks Bluebird.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on June 14, 2008, 01:59:15 pm
hi there all

I have been asked, via a personal message, how I built the davits for the Cervia tug - they are basically all made from Plasticard of various thicknesses plus two old refills from Biro pens for the tubes.  Some copper wire to produce the loops, pins and winding handles.   I have included a sketch which I hope you can all make out; plus, a few photographs of the finished item.   I originally copied the davits from a book which I borrowed from Riggers; I believe the book was called 'Tugs and Fishing Vessels' in their was a good drawing of the davits I built.

Hope this helps also, I have just tried to add this to the end of the Cervia build and realise this topic is now locked - so, over to the moderators to put this on the end of the Cervia build - this would be most helpful.

aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on September 13, 2008, 03:15:38 pm
hello there Everyone and Dicky especially  O0

here is proof of the pudding as they say - I know it has been a long while since I finished this model but this is the first time she has had her 'bot' wet - at lake for those interested this is Roker Park Lake Near Sunderland model performed quite well and it was a real pleasurable, relaxing sale....even the rain stopped!  O0

aye
john e
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on September 13, 2008, 09:03:03 pm
Thats not you in that photo John, who is it ?

Thats a really smart tug though, its just like yours. Seems to go pretty well too. O0
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on September 13, 2008, 09:07:06 pm
Hi ya Dicky

that was an old guy who was looking round the lake looking quite lost - and bewildered - didnt know what all that water was for - so I asked him if he would like a go at controlling the tub or even the tug - but, I did have to explain to him what that pool of water was called and what it was actually used for  ???  it must be a long time since he has seen a Lake  :angel: :angel: :-X
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on September 13, 2008, 09:27:45 pm
The blind leading the blind then John. ;)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Tug-Kenny RIP on September 14, 2008, 08:18:46 pm

Looks superb, John.  It's nice to get down to the water, once in a while.

I thought you'd just finished eating a water melon, till I looked closer at your picture.  {-)

ken
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on September 14, 2008, 08:21:08 pm
eeeeeeeeeeeeee aye - I see that now - me boat stand is now a water melon  O0 O0 O0 - it really is a tonic to get down to the lake every now and then - the weather forecast isnt looking too bad for the week ahead - so I might get down again with me melon stand and boat.  ::) ::) :D {-) O0

aye
John
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on September 14, 2008, 08:45:13 pm
Mind you dont overdo it John. You know, all that water------------------------------- {-)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: riggers24 on September 14, 2008, 10:26:25 pm
So what Xtals were you using, not 40.805 O0 O0 O0 O0 ;D ;D ;D ;D {-) {-) {-) {-)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: riggers24 on September 15, 2008, 10:09:56 pm
My last posting last night was for the benifit of Bluebird, I received a phone call off him on Sunday. He had spent the best part of the day looking to the TX Xtal 40.805. Workshop in bits and still no further forward. After a quick call to me asking if I had a "extra" Xtal, I told him that the receiver he had found the Xtal in was mine and so was the Xtal.

I didn't laugh to much. Never mind sonna, just keep takin them pills ;D
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on September 15, 2008, 10:27:13 pm
Trouble is riggers he is not used to sailing his boats so he doesn't often use crystals. ::)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: tobyker on January 06, 2009, 05:50:26 pm
Very nice, and very helpful. However I can't see from the pics how you arranged the belt reduction drive to the shaft. What pulleys and belt did you use? I'm thinking about building a tug about the same size.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on January 14, 2009, 06:52:14 pm
hi there tobyker - sorry for the late response - been busy with several new projects  :-))

the belt drive and pulleys used on the Cervia build and on the Frederique Spashett are an MFA Olympus belt drive part number 1092/4;

I bought this belt drive gearbox directly from MFA and all in with postage I think I may have paid about 16 English pounds for it;

Hope this is of some help.

aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: tobyker on January 14, 2009, 11:18:37 pm
VMT.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: tugnut on February 02, 2009, 09:16:21 pm
Hi john very nice build of a great old tug.
I live near Ramsgate where she is, looking a bit sad now.
My unkle bill was skiper on her when she went down outside Tilbury Docks.
Once again a lovely looking model.

  John B
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: tight-lines on June 06, 2009, 09:25:33 pm
that is absolutely unbelivable,,amazing ,,,i cant belive how skilled you are,,,,well done and thank you for sharing your build,,,,im off to see if there are anymore now like this, as i just stumbled upon this while surfing the forum,top draw!
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on July 16, 2009, 08:33:18 am
Getting along great now John following your build.  You have been a great help giving your time freely answering many stuoid questions that I have asked.

One more question if I may?  If I wanted to make Cervia suitable for towing, how would you suggest I alter the hook / superstructure so that it wouldn't get pulled apart when towing?

Many thanks
Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Martin [Admin] on July 16, 2009, 08:55:56 am

Please feel free to share your Questions and comments onTUG CERVIA HULL BUILD by Bluebird   build in this thread.

(  Build thread here:     TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8904.0)  )

Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on July 16, 2009, 09:58:43 am
Thanks Martin but now I must be having a senior moment.  On the build thread it states to ask any question on this Q&A thread but on this thread it is telling me to ask on the build thread %%

Maybe I'll pm John
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on July 16, 2009, 10:04:33 am
Sorry Martin just read the message again - told you I was having a senior moment - I will now take a lie down in a coll dark room until matron arrives with my medication.

Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: furball on July 16, 2009, 12:56:59 pm
...and that link points to the Whitehills lifeboat build...

 ok2

Lance
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on July 16, 2009, 01:14:20 pm
Read Martins post again, he's the one having the senior moment, he's just told you to do what you have done.

Also as Furball says, that is the wrong link anyway. %)
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Martin [Admin] on July 16, 2009, 01:54:27 pm

Sorry, that should read....

Please feel free to ask your questions and make comments here on this thread.

(  Build thread here:     TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=8904.0)  )
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on July 16, 2009, 06:54:58 pm
Hi there Cyril
I have included a couple of photographs of how I secure superstructure to the Cervia hull.   I am sorry I have lost my ‘black/red arrow pointers’ so my fingers will have to do.
You will see on pic 1, where I am pointing at the stern.   This is where the back of the superstructure locks in through a little peg.  Although the peg is not visible; it is on the back of the engine room casing and it goes into the little hatch.   On the front of the superstructure, you will see where I am pointing at 2 brass pins, these are sticking out from the bottom of the superstructure and these serve 2 purposes.  They both locate into brass tubes which have been ‘epoxied’ to the underside of the deck.
In turn one pin is a positive and one pin is connected up to the negative – 6 volt supply.  So, when the 2 pins fix into the brass tubes, they supply the power for the navigation lights and deck lights.
Have a look at pics 2 and 3 to see what I am talking about.
The total set up is secure enough for you to mount a tow hook in the correct position and tow from it.   Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John e
Bluebird
Or is it gribeuval according to wor martin’s link 

Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DickyD on July 16, 2009, 06:59:15 pm
So where's the other photo then or didnt you have time between tea breaks ? {:-{
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on July 17, 2009, 08:10:29 am
Thanks John - that helps a lot :-))

I take it that the hatch at the stern is fixed to the deck only and not th engine room casing?

Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on November 03, 2009, 01:07:50 pm
Hi Cyril
hear is how the tow hook is made
The main hook is  made from 1/8 brass cut and filed to shape

then  to the side cheek 1/16 brass is soldered either side,
 
the rope keep is made from bell wire stripped of the plastic insulation then bent in a oval shape and then clipped in to the main body of the hook

hope this helps

aye

john
 
 
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on November 16, 2009, 09:26:33 am
Thanks for that John - all made and fixed.

Now I need some help with the rigging.  It's not too clear from the plan and some of your pics get a little distorted when I zzom in.

Being a rigging virgin {-) can you help - in particular how you attache the yardarms to the mast and where your anchor points are on the suerstructure.

Many thanks.

Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on November 16, 2009, 07:10:25 pm
Hi ya there Cyril a squirrel will follow then maybe a scribble  of dat dar rigging on the Cervia .... at the present time the model is sitting in the dining room and I am just too darn lazy to get it from down there to look at the rigging again   I WILL BE BACK.....

OH AYE
john

ps been down there twice and keep forgetting aboot it.....  %% %% %% ..... one of those days
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on November 17, 2009, 10:51:16 am
hi Cyrill i hope this will help you
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on December 15, 2009, 08:29:51 am
Thanks John - just what I needed.

Last questions I think and then it's finished :-))

Did you buy or make your lifeboat?  I see Mobile Marine sell some decent lifeboats but what size?  They do 3.5" and 5".

Finally what did you use for the steam trunking for the anchor windlass and capstan? The reason I ask is the the anchor windlass seems to follow the curve of the superstructure.

Thanks John and, if I don't get another chance a very Happy, healthy and peaceful Christmas and New Year.

Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on December 20, 2009, 05:41:53 pm
Hi ya there Cyril

The lifeboat was made from a solid block of Balsa and I got the size from the plan. but, obviously, if you find it easier to purchase one - then just do that.  Sometimes a shop purchased one does look nice and sets the model off.

If you have a look in the Warship section, under the HMS Daring 1930 @ 1:72 scale - I put a bit on there on how to make the lifeboats - if that would be of any help to you.

Dont forget now, you have no excuse - we want a couple of pics of the finished model - doesnt matter what you think your model looks like, you have a done a good deal and tried and succeeded in building a model from a plan.

All the best to you and yours for the season and New Year.
aye
john
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: gvandor on March 14, 2010, 10:42:45 pm
Hy BlueBird

I'm a new member here. I see and I think very nice ships: Cervia and the other ship from You the Frederick Spashett.

I'd like those ship, so I ask for You, how can I get those plans for ships?

Best regards: gvandor
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 15, 2010, 06:54:53 pm
gvandor hi there

First of all, welcome to the forum.  May you enjoy it, it is full of useful information  :-))

Secondly, the Cervia build plans come from a Company in England UK, called MyHobbiesStore.   You can purchase the plans on line and here is a link to where you will find them  - the boats plan page   http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17045/cervia-mm567  If you do a further search of all plans, you will come across the Frederique Spashett, look under fishing vessels.   You will also find a lot of plans for other interesting vessels - spend many an hour myself browsing and deciding what to build next.

Hope this helps.

Any questions just shout up on the Forum.  :-)) :-))

aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: gvandor on March 15, 2010, 08:11:12 pm
Hy Bluebird

Thank you all. The link what send me here, perfectly help me.  O0

Best regards: gvandor
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: brianB6 on August 26, 2010, 03:03:07 am
Hi There from Melbourne
I built a 1:48 Cervia from the free plan in Model Boats when it first came out about 1975.   My own fibreglass hull (why didn't I keep the mould <:( )   It has been through the wars surviving a major car crash and a sinking and is still going strong.  The old 27 meg. Futaba 'brick' Tx. and Rx are still going although the servo motors occasionally need oiling.
I have seen a few other examples sailing in Oz over the years including a 1:24 steam powered version.
Will post a photo when I learn how to do it on this site.
B6 refers to the number of Brian's in our club.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Geoff Cropper on February 07, 2011, 04:39:40 pm
I've got some plans of "Cervia" and noticed the rudder is moved by rods and chains attached to the rudder quadrant.       I was thinking I might replicate this system on my 1/36 scale model using chain and brass wire running through brass eyes and rollers at deck level.       Has any members done this system on their tugs? if so, have you any piccies please.      I haven't started on the model yet, I'm just collecting as much info as I can before I tell the Memsahib I'm going to build another tug.          Geoff.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Billyruffian on February 08, 2011, 12:06:59 pm
Hi Geoff,

Don't know about another tug but I believe Boatmadman has done something similar with his steam drifter build in the masterclass section.

Hope this helps?

Cyril
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Geoff Cropper on February 08, 2011, 07:30:56 pm
Thanks Cyril, I'll have a look at that soonest.       My Dad was called Cyril as well.   Thanks again.     Geoff.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Lt. Raen on March 05, 2011, 10:22:02 am
Hi Bluebird

I am planning on building a 1:48 scale Cervia this year (at least starting it  %%) and have a question about the planking to be used.
I am finding it difficult to find a supplier of Obechi here in Australia and was wondering what other types
of wood would be suitable for this build.
So far i can get a ready supply of Beech, Huon Pine, Limewood, Mahoganny and Pear and was thinking
the limewood would probably suffice.

Any help greatly appreciated

Tim
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 05, 2011, 05:26:22 pm
Hi there Tim

Limewood would be ideal to plank with, along with a timber sometimes called 'boxwood' it is basic Obechi also I have known people who have cut up wooden Venetian blinds into pieces to produce planking (although I am unsue what wood they are made from).  Hope this helps.



aye
john e
bluebird
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: nhp651 on March 05, 2011, 08:25:00 pm
it's usually either obeche or jelutong, john......i use it for pof......buy it at car boots. at 50p - £1.00 for a complete blind, it's cheep planking.
lime and pearwood are exellent for planking as it's easy to sand and carve.
neil.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Lt. Raen on March 06, 2011, 12:05:37 am
Thanks for the speedy replies looks limewood or venetian blinds it is


Tim
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Lt. Raen on March 21, 2011, 07:24:55 am
I have started to trace the the plans so i can transfer them onto timber and am trying to work out where to finish each frame.
On the line drawing there is a small arrow pointing to the top of the frame with the word "strip" on it
My question is whether to draw the frame to the base of this strip or to the top of this strip.

Also how did you decide on the angle of the deck? (from edge of frame to centreline) as your frames do not appear completely flat,
dop they have a slight bulge to them?

Many thanks,
Tim
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 21, 2011, 07:23:47 pm

Hi there Tim
The strip, I believe, on the plan is referring to the rubbing/fender strip which runs around at deck level on the tug. 
The height of the frames should be in the middle of this strip width.  Therefore when you add the bulwarks and decking you then apply the rubbing strip which hides the joint between the bulwarks and planking. 
The angle or the radius on top of the frames is the camber and there is a correct formula for calculating the height of this – to which I will have to look this up  to refresh one’s senile memory (getting old you know) .   I do believe there is a centre height drawn on the profile plan if you have a look – it gives you a height to the centre of the deck (I am sure).
Sorry I cannot be more help, because I gave the plans away to someone on the forum – so I am having to go back to the build and scrutinize from there.   
Anymore queries, please don’t hesitate – AND PUT SOME PICS OF YOUR BUILD ON  :-))

aye

john
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Lt. Raen on March 21, 2011, 08:30:22 pm
Thanks John, that clears up a lot of conufsion
And yes the radius is what i was refering to (not sure why i said angle  {-))
Pics will follow when i have something of import to show, unless you want to see photos of my photocopying ability  :D

Tim
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: dave parker on December 19, 2016, 01:52:41 pm
Hi Bluebird

Where have al the pictures gone???

Dave
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on December 19, 2016, 05:39:36 pm
Hi there Dave

Sometimes there isn't a picture - but there is a tiny box - there is a code number at the side of the box.   If you click on that, it normally brings the picture back - this seems to be a recurring problems after a few crashes and reboots of Mayhem.   I noticed we have totally lost all the pictures for the build of the MSC Archer Tug which I did a while ago.   There are also several pictures missing off the RTTL build 2751 and other builds on the Forum.  Maybe something Martin can look into to see if he can retrieve them.

Last but not least, have you started any builds yet?  Because one of the good builds is a plan for the beginner (The Swordsman).

John
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: dave parker on December 19, 2016, 07:47:03 pm
Hi Bluebird

Many thanks for your reply....I have a feeling I may have asked you this before as I remember the answer you gave me  %)

I have read through and looked at every last bit of this build and I love it

These are the kind of builds, and your knowledge that keep me coming back, I absolutely love it

And no, no first build yet, but as this is my 3rd time getting in to RC boats again, I am determined to give it a proper go this time

On to re-read the Vosper build!!!!!  :-))
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: xm607 on April 21, 2017, 01:26:03 pm
This is a brilliant build that I have only just found, I visited the Tug at Ramsgate last year for inspiration whilst restoring a Caldercraft Imara, love the sketches from a proper modeller not just adapting available castings, like I would.


Steve.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Rodgearing on June 09, 2017, 12:22:02 pm
 Hi Bluebird
This dopey old sod is confused.
I have taken on the Cervia build and confusion reigns as to what the correct height is for each frame.
At first I took the height from boat bottom (hull) up to the bottom of the rubbing strip and traced frames ¼   and ½   
OK I thought and had a quick look at your build to compare notes and sizes and my findings left me baffled
My measurement for frame ¼  from hull to rubbing strip up the centre line is 90mm
For ½ from hull to rubbing strip is 100mm
OK so I looked at yours (photo 9 traced frames on materials) and compared sizes
Your heights where as follows (yes I took the fact that the sizes were reduced by the photo and used your ruler as reference)
So frame ¼ from hull (??) to rubbing strip (??)is 76mm (give or take a gnats whisker)
Frame ½  from hull  to rubbing strip is 80mm
Any idea as to where my discrepancy may be ie where to where should frame heights be measured please?
 Fred
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: tugmad on June 09, 2017, 01:12:28 pm
Does this help at all, it is of a sister boat to Cervia, but does give the frame layout .
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Rodgearing on June 09, 2017, 03:05:07 pm
Dunno I can't see them very well.
Any chance you could email piccies please
Fred
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on June 09, 2017, 04:49:10 pm
Hello there Fred

Welcome to the Madhouse :-) okay
If you have a look at picture 6 on the build thread - you will see a red and a black arrow - both pointing at lines - drawn on the frame plan. 

The red arrow is the outer deck line height.   The black arrow, in actual fact, is the top of the rubbing strake which goes on the outside of the hull.  So, the top measurement is taken from the line where the red arrow is pointing at.   

Look at picture 7, you can see that this is of the 'keel' area and there are 2 more arrows pointing at lines here.

The red arrow is where the frame ends.   The black arrow indicates the thickness/end of the external keel.  So, the measurement of your frames are taken at where the red arrow is pointing at.

Now, if you have a look at photograph 1 which is the side view of the hull, look closely and just above the top of the rubbing strake you will see a dotted line, which follows roughly the shape of the hull - this is the height of your frames in the centre of the hull.

So it gives you to the top of the camber of the deck in other words.

Hope this is of some help.

If not - let me know and I will re describe what I have said as sometimes it is difficult to put into words (if you know what I mean).

Lets know if you need any further help.   Don't forget as well, I have already reduced the size of frames by the thickness of planking - that thought just occurred to me.

John
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on June 11, 2017, 12:18:20 pm
Hear is the tug cervia on the duck pond ,
john
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Rodgearing on March 14, 2019, 10:46:05 am

Its me again after many months.
Its taken me some time to get back round to the CERVIA and managed to start on keel and frames I have decided to use 8mm ply cos that's what I had for the ribs/frames and about to cut them out.
Confused again with the keel when you look at pictures 33 and 34 it shows the keel  and ribs joined and it seems that the keel is flush with most of the ribs at the bottom ie there is no keel protrusion but in pics 36, 37 (or there abouts) the planks seem to intimate that there is a protruded keel is this because the first planks port and starboard (keel area ) are the keel?
Confused again and sorry if you are by my question.
thanks Fred
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 14, 2019, 11:27:19 am

Hi Fred - you say you are Confused again


Hope this helps you -


'with the keel when you look at pictures 33 and 34' - the keel is flush with the frames/ribs


'at the bottom ie there is no keel protrusion' - when you begin planking - your first planks are laid either side of the keel, leaving a gap equal to the width of the keel


' in pics 36, 37 (or there abouts) the planks seem to intimate that there is a protruded keel is this because the first planks port and starboard (keel area ) are the keel?' - this is where the planks are laid onto the frames and you follow the curve of the hull & your planking will end up with tapering gaps, which are filled in with triangular pieces of planking at the end.   The very last plank I personally put in, lies on top of the keel which covers the gap,


john
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Rodgearing on March 14, 2019, 11:50:27 am

Hi John
Thanks matey I think I understand so there is a keel there.
There is no reason as to why I can't have 4mm of protruding keel and plank up to it is there?
The way you did it was the way you did it? i.e. you don't have to do it that why do we?
Yes I know thick as concrete marmalade ;)
 
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: John W E on March 14, 2019, 01:10:31 pm

Hi there Fred


The reason I don't leave a keel protruding from the bottom of the hull - is - it makes life a lot easier when you come to sanding and finishing the planking - if you have a keel that is sticking out, you have to sand up to it and try not to sand it away :-) or sand grooves in it.


The next thing is, when you come to seal the hull (depending on what method you are going to use - e.g. fibre glass tissue with polyester resin - or - a very fine woven roven with an epoxy resin ) where the tissue or the woven roven lying on the hull comes up to the keel you have a sharp right angled bend and therefore you will get an air bubble there, unless you butt the material into the keel. 


If there is no keel there, you just cover right over from one side to the other with your material and you don't have to worry about air bubbles. 


Just something for you to think about.


If you have a look at the pics of the hulls I have built, you will see what I am on about - and - if I can help it - leave a protruding keel, I always add it on after I have finished the hull.
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: Rodgearing on March 14, 2019, 04:44:19 pm

Thanks John understand fully. So its a choice thing.
Thanks again
Title: Re: Q & A - TUG CERVIA HULL BUILD
Post by: DanielH on March 05, 2024, 02:58:56 pm
Very late to the topic, but just to say what an excellent built thread. I really enjoyed reading through that.