Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
 on: Today at 01:33:39 PM 
Started by Rob47 - Last Post by frogman3

HI Bob here is the web addy  an tel no 01692652960 
mobile 07787025484
an yes becc does the yellow an black deck markins in 1/72 an 1/96  scale an a pic link below  hope this helps you bob

 on: Today at 12:41:41 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by Colin Bishop
Looking online it appears that most 6mm SS tube on offer has 1mm or 1.5mm wall so there is no space for inserting bearings with a 4mm shaft and I would say that a 4mm shaft is necessary for 16 inch length to keep it straight.


 on: Today at 12:27:21 PM 
Started by Shaka - Last Post by derekwarner
Silicone sealants Michael are the work of NASA for use in air conditioned Laboratories, or as some proffer the work of the Devil

These synthetic materials are of little real use in marine engineering [full size or model size]

Unfortunately, after the application of such material, the removal is extremely difficult

Tung Oil, was used in 400 BC to help waterproof wooden Chinese sailing is available 2419 years later at any reputable paint store.....

I'll lay you 10:1 that the Model shop from the early 90's is not performing such Silicone work  <*<   today


 on: Today at 12:16:24 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by frogman3
HI guys well the model dock yard warns at the start of the page on prop sharfts that they might only be able to send brass ones as caldercraft sends them an they don know wheather it will be silver or brass. So they will send whatever they can get so we will give them a ring Monday morn an see what they say but to me it don't look to hopefull but cheers guys for your help

 on: Today at 12:02:31 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by derekwarner
Well Chris......I find some simple electrical criterial a little difficult to comprehend, but if I ask for a garden spade, I expect a metal blade with a wooden shaft & handle.......

Having said this, last Saturday I went to the storage shed at our Steam Club grounds to get a straw broom to sweep some grass that I had blown over on concrete with the ride on mower

Straw broom?  >>:-( such thing left..... plastic bristles in the shape of a broom and complete with a 5 ft aluminium handle {-)


PS....stainless tube.........millions of tons in all sizes available on the world is a pity some resort in telling PORKIES as their excuses

 on: Today at 12:00:52 PM 
Started by Shaka - Last Post by Shaka
Thank you for the advise,

I will try and put a few photos of the interior up as soon as I can. The model shop in the early 90ís covered the inside with a fair bit of silicone around the frames and shafts. Iím not sure if she was originally taking on water or it was done as a preventative measure.

All the best


 on: Today at 11:36:45 AM 
Started by Rob47 - Last Post by Rob47

Yep I know I can and have done but was hoping that BECC did them

You can  print your own waterslide transfers easy enough. Info all over the web.

For wire what diameter? I'd be looking at anything, if you desire a specific config can always consider wind it yourself in a drill and vice?

 on: Today at 11:36:02 AM 
Started by Rob47 - Last Post by Rob47

if you have a link to Becc doing that black/yellow, be very grateful, spent ages looking, they only do one type and its not that


HI Bob  well first question go into a fishin shop an look at the wire they got in their what the fish cant bite through that's where I get my railings wire from
an yes I think becc does the yellow an black in severall scales

 on: Today at 11:28:25 AM 
Started by Rob47 - Last Post by tonyH
Silver plated jewellery wire from 0.2 to 0.6 are relatively cheap and I'd assume solderable with the silver plating

 on: Today at 11:12:54 AM 
Started by Shaka - Last Post by derekwarner

If you floated & wetted timbers [internal and external] that had been dry for say 20 years.......the result could be swelling and wetting of the wood which is of little use to you........the subsequent drying out process would also delay your refurbishment

'a bit like immersing a non water proof watch in water, then opening it up to see if it leaked'

Mechanical sanding to a section of the externals [hull, deck, & hull to deck interface, bilge. keel etc]......would provide a better understanding of the integrity of hull structure and planking

Re-sealing of the dry internals may be a preferable first step  O0

Why not post a few images of the internals together images of the sanded sections of the will help members with their recommendations

The damage you show to the bow is cosmetic only..........there is little that cannot be rectified


Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10