Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

It took me a couple of hours this morning to get off the main layer of red paint from the main superstructure of the Clyde using 60 and then 80 grade garnet paper fitted on to a palm held mouse., plus what was left on the two extra mouldings, which have had a couple or more hours spent sanding them down by hand the other night

My arms and back now ache from bending, shoving and pulling, and the mouldings will need some tarting up after a base coat of primer have been given.

But before that, they will need more sanding with finer grit abrasive paper, most probably 250,. 400 and then an 800 grade.

But the good thing is, ITS GETTING THERE!!!

Hi with the low value of kit made model boats built and ready to sail, I think that old kits have more value left untouched especially the box.

Sad but that is my experience as I help dispose of deceased club members models.  There are few buyers and not that many who know how to look after them.

Regards
Roy

Alan, I've looked at this build several times since you posted it, but didn't realise it was yours . Love build.
Regards
Ant 

Hi tica,
A great thanks for your interest in the sailing scenes of the patrol boat on the lake.
I am waiting for a good weather suitable for the first trial run at cruising speed.
Wind speed on the lake is desirable at 1m/s-2m/s(2.3miles/h-4.6miles/h) for the run, but 7-8m/s wind was blowing today
over the lake.

Pics below are my worst sailing experience with my flag ship Jupiter-F99 at around 4m/s wind in the winter...
But I was confident for her to surpass the terrible conditions from previous numerous runs as in the pics below.
But operation of the boat was not interesting at all.!!!
Kiyo

First outing on the water

HI Kiyo
Looking great 
Hope to see pics. from the lake soon 
BrCarsten

Final balance check was done in full load by which this patrol boat is supposed to carry out the first trial run on our boating lake.    In order to get this this well-balanced draught, I set a 130g flat lead ingot ballast at the sternmost position.
I could fortunately succeed in having similar draught line to its 1/1 counterpart this time.
This is I think one of the very important scale realism on the water.

 
Revell 1/144 - Das Boot - U-Boat Type VII C U96
 

https://youtu.be/flkfhV35mLY?si=rV0R1J2cMv0A4kEm
 
 
 

Hello all,


While the filling and sanding continues behind the scenes I decided to shift some attention to the power supply box, also because I had a spark on inspiration on how to properly design it. The power supply will be completely redone in the new hull and the power supply box seems like a good place to start working on that. The middle row will be fully - connections for ease of connecting, the remaining connectors will be divided along 5 fuses, since the first of 6 fuses is used as a main fuse to the last 3 fuses. From this point I will run wiring throughout the boat, adding the same kind of connectors at tactical connection point in the hull.

I started applying a colour coding for the connections.

The power supply box got quite big, this is in part because it provides much more room for proper wiring and the Pi also becomes much more accessible for maintenance. I do need to find a place for the battery status display which I almost forgot about.

The new power supply box fits well, though it will end up on the bottom rather then on the old box.


I started getting a feeling that it might proof difficult to pace winches inside the drilling tower so I spent like 5 minutes in FreeCAD so I could see whether it actually will be a problem or not.

There is now better way of determining whether or not something will fit then to make it and try it out, so I did. I will use 3mm styrene sheet for basic construction of the tower (2 aluminium angle bars will provide more strength) so I won't have issues with a bending tower when all winches are lifting whatever load I may come across. At the moment the 3D printer is printing the second of 5 winches.


Both bottoms (1 will be fitted to the island, the other will be glued inside the PVC pipe that will make the lighthouse), the 2 plateaus, the roof and the mounting plate for the WiFi router. The mounting plate for the router has an additional hole for the wiring of the lighting in the top of the lighthouse.


The joysticks are now ready to be placed permanently, though I need to be careful not to forget placing the magnets otherwise there will be no angles indicated.

I finished the wiring, now I need to place the remaining 2 screens.

The right joystick is mirrored for convenience in use. Now it all comes down to detailing!

Booting the transmitters goes quite well. Today I added a battery status display so I'll know when to shut the transmitter down.

Greetings Josse

The engine you have shown may well be the Caton, I have had a closer look at the Max 2 and there are differences between my Max2 and the engine you show in the photos, the top frame where the oil cups are located is definitely  different