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Here's a Gannet that could be used - you'd have to add the AEW Dome yourself though:


Fairey Gannet for microarmor by Captain_Ahab_62 - Thingiverse


Sea Vixen:


DeHavilland dh110 Sea Vixen for microarmor by Captain_Ahab_62 - Thingiverse


Buccaneer:


Blackburn Buccaneer S.2 for microarmor by Captain_Ahab_62 - Thingiverse


Westland Whirlwind:


Sikorsky H-19 Chickasaw / Westland Whirlwind HAS7 by Nostromo_11 - Thingiverse


Westland Wessex:


🚁 WESTLAND WESSEX 31B・ 3D File for ・Cults
or:
🚁 WESTLAND WESSEX 31B/HU5 (2 IN 1)・ 3D File for ・Cults

I faced this problem with my HMCS Bonaventure - there are no models of RCN Aircraft from the 1960's in 1/96 scale.  It's kind of a niche....of...basically me. 


3D printing is the solution I followed.


A friend of mine ordered 1x S2 Tracker from an online print on demand service and it cost him $90.  I was able to print a tracker for $3 worth of plastic.  The decals cost more than the aircraft.

In case anyone's interested, I built a model of HMS Puncher last year and released the 3D print files for free on Thingiverese.


I built her in 1/144 because that's a super handy size to get around back and forth to/from the pond.


Here's how she looks:

I had someone point out to me that the 20mm Phalanx CIWS is the wrong fit for the ship, and so is the 22 shot SeaRAM launcher I printed.

Turns out the correct version is the 11 shot launcher with the Radome.


So.  Off to some 3D design software, and here we are.  Available for free download now from Makerworld if you want to make one yourself. 

Thanks for the explanation Mark, I can see how this works. The sources I was looking at were for larger ships.
Jim

Some more dome today and this time it's the windlass locking pawl.  It's a very simple mechanism that doesn't really need explaining rather than saying it's a hinge with a wooden pawl.























My next jobs are to make the hatch surround on the forecastle deck above the stove and then the pin rail.


Cheers Mark

Main 4.5 MK8 mod 0 master, I’ve had to make the base as a separate part for moulding.


I will prime all parts before taking a mould, the orange tape will also be removed before casting as I only need a light imprint from it.

Thanks Martin I didn't know about this!!! 
Dave:)

Hi Jim and thanks for the nice comment.


What you say is absolutely correct except on this particular ship the rope goes around the cleats and then attaches to a ring bolt lower down the stem.  This gives the correct angle on the rigging.  I’ll try and upload a picture so that you can see - Mark