Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

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 61 
 on: Yesterday at 09:03:45 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by Colin Bishop
I take your point but I still think you are probably worrying too much. However if you can source a tube and shaft to match your existing ones then that is certainly the first choice.

Colin

 62 
 on: Yesterday at 09:02:25 PM 
Started by chris gillespie - Last Post by chris gillespie
A Superbly built...... Trein Maersk model

The crane works

The kit alone is nearly 790

I was going to repaint the hull  ( A set of replacement decals costing 30 odd quid is included )

1000

Can be taken to Blackpool

 63 
 on: Yesterday at 09:02:04 PM 
Started by Skimmer Fan - Last Post by TheLongBuild
Raspberry pi might be able to do something like that, although the last example I heard was the sailing boat went the wrong way up the river.. %%

 64 
 on: Yesterday at 09:00:20 PM 
Started by kpnuts - Last Post by Capt Podge
Once you have sorted that out I guess you will then lay the king-plank and work outwards to the sides or will you be planking the hull next?


Regards,
Ray.

 65 
 on: Yesterday at 08:58:53 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by frogman3

Yes Colin you are proberly right but ive had this happen an as for the paint the sharft tube still has to go through the very tight A FRAME tube so would still have to remove all the paint
chris

 66 
 on: Yesterday at 08:52:22 PM 
Started by chris gillespie - Last Post by chris gillespie
Billings Calypso

A really well made model

350

Can be taken to Blackpool

 67 
 on: Yesterday at 08:50:26 PM 
Started by frogman3 - Last Post by Colin Bishop
Um, no I don't quite understand that. Once you have installed the prop tubes in a model it would be very unusual indeed to have to remove them. I have only found it necessary to do so once in 50 years of modelling! It is certainly not normal modelling practice to provide for prop tube removal. If there is an imbalance problem then replacing the bearing inserts would be the usual solution but on a scale model this would be very rare too.
Most commercial scale props will be sufficiently balanced not to result in significant oval wear in a scale boat prop tube bearing.

In the very unlikely event of having to extract the tube itself then the paint would be on the outer end so would not impede the withdrawal of the tube.
To be honest, I think you are worrying too much!

Colin

 68 
 on: Yesterday at 08:47:39 PM 
Started by Skimmer Fan - Last Post by Skimmer Fan

Has anybody had any experience or ideas of how you would get a boat to follow a set route without remote control.
The model world has a system of letting a wire into a base board and the model cars busses follow the wire using a magnate. The vehicle is permanently energized so just keeps on following the wire.
Show tank would be about 4ft x 2ft.
Boat probably 1/72
Hope you understand what I am asking.

 69 
 on: Yesterday at 08:46:33 PM 
Started by chris gillespie - Last Post by chris gillespie
500 ONO

Can be taken to Blackpool

 70 
 on: Yesterday at 08:32:44 PM 
Started by kpnuts - Last Post by kpnuts
Ok so I've decided to start decking it, the instructions are not at all clear it shows you decking over the false deck by 2 mm for the first 120 mm and no longer mentions that afterwards (I can understand that as the planking for the sides is 2mm thick) but why stop that overlap at 120 mm, I looked at pics of the waterways on the actual ship and it looks like there is a wooden strip all the way along the ship from the front to the stern step so I decided to continue the strip all the way along, first problem was keeping a 4 mm wide strip at 2 mm on the deck and 2mm in the air so I decided to add the first plank on the sides and put the waterways over that, I figure the more accurate I can get the first plank the rest must be better so I took great efforts with the first plank.







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