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Author Topic: seehund  (Read 18991 times)

colin-stevens

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seehund
« on: July 19, 2006, 09:04:10 pm »

been at this for about a year now. the originall plans were sent to me by someone on Sub Committee, soory no idea who, computer crashed and the back up disk was corrupted, luv em dont you just? put the plans into auto cad as a rasta then traced over it to get the frames. these were then pasted onto balsa, cut out and glued to the keel. these were then covered in thin balsa and covered in cloth and resin. the centre section is drain pipe, the diameter of which set the scale. the fore and aft section were then gled to this and more cloth and resin applied to get a strong joint. the lower section is water pipe glued to the bottom, and then thin ply yet again glued to to the drain pipe and water pipe to form the waisting(?) the conning tower is just plastic card formed round templates. easy, not.the three parts were a nightmare to keep level,straight and aligned in all dimension, lots of figs and heart ache before the final fix and boy did i need one.the big hold up at the moment is the kortz nozzle. just waiting for the Robbe 50mm to come in and hoping that it will do.no idea how to sink her, or rather i do, just not sure how to bring her back up again. bit vital in a sub. the silicon i have used for the radio box has still not set, after 3 long days. lifted the lid after a day and wrecked the nice level bead i planned. not goin to well so far. when she has some paint on her i will put on more piccies.
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Voyager

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Re: seehund
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2006, 12:39:33 pm »

I have seen this model before?...Ermm...it was at Black Park a little while back! The chap who had it done a fantastic build+paint job. From what i saw of it, it ran like a dream!!! He could very well be a Black Park member, speak to Gary the Black Park Chairman, and he might be able to put you in contact with the guy. (Gary is a member of this forum)


Voyager.
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Guy Bagley

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Re: seehund
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2006, 04:12:04 pm »

i tihnk the model to which you refer is dave wrights seehund.... i dont think this is the the one and the same model but they are very similar.......

 
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colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2006, 07:56:58 pm »

certainly was not mine. amazing is not a word that i will use yet, maybe never. i will try to get in touch with him. his could have been OTW's. very nice but slightly bigger than mine. could well be more accurate as well seeing as i lost sight of the scale. first for menormally quite annal about things like that.
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Mankster

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Re: seehund
« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2006, 09:30:11 pm »

I used to leave my silicone seals at least a weeks to cure fully, especially if you have laid it on thick. I think an RCABs type ballast system will be simplest system to install in that hull. Its doest seem like you have much volume of material above the waterline so you won't need to displace too much water to submerge.

cbr900

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Re: seehund
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2006, 04:57:31 am »

There were a lot of men died in the real ones, they were virtually a one way ticket machine..


Roy
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colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2006, 05:33:50 pm »

pla=eeeeeese define RCAB cos i'm thick. been looking at the subtech site. need tubes and shafts, found tubes but no shafts and two set of pumps. planning on pumping in water to sink her, and out again to surface. oh it sounds so simple. especialy if i use there "T" valve. cant get my head around how to fit it, guess it will make more sense when i get it.also how the heck do i stop water getting into the radio box? planing on using the engel TEA ballast switch unit as it has water detector cct to blow the ballast tank. i know this works cos i used in a sub i built for someone else, it leaked and the thing came back to the surface.but all i want is to stop water getting into the radio box. hope this makes sense. or to cut this down to one short sentence, explain in words of one sylable how the **** do i do it? i have been thinking about it for so long i have confused my self, not hard.
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Guy Bagley

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Re: seehund
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2006, 12:14:33 pm »

am i right in thinking you are planning to use 2 pumps, one to pump in and one to pump out ?- if so why not cut down to one pump and use a peristaltic pump ?
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Mankster

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Re: seehund
« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2006, 05:51:09 pm »

pla=eeeeeese define RCAB cos i'm thick. been looking at the subtech site. need tubes and shafts, found tubes but no shafts and two set of pumps. planning on pumping in water to sink her, and out again to surface. oh it sounds so simple. especialy if i use there "T" valve. cant get my head around how to fit it, guess it will make more sense when i get it.also how the heck do i stop water getting into the radio box? planing on using the engel TEA ballast switch unit as it has water detector cct to blow the ballast tank. i know this works cos i used in a sub i built for someone else, it leaked and the thing came back to the surface.but all i want is to stop water getting into the radio box. hope this makes sense. or to cut this down to one short sentence, explain in words of one sylable how the **** do i do it? i have been thinking about it for so long i have confused my self, not hard.

Hi Colin,
The first thing you need to work out is you want you ballast tank within the pressure hull or if you want it out side the pressure area. Depending on the size and shape of the pressure hull either may be possible.

If you want the have it within the pressure hull, the easiest way would be to use a rubber bag from a pressure cuff as a ballast bag that you pump water in and out of. A peristaltic pump is ideal or a reversible water pump. Place the rubber bag inside a cylindrical acrylic tube that will define the maximum size of the inflated ballast bag. This will give you a consistant max ballast point to set your neutral buoyany and also limit the expansion of the rubber bag so you can't overfil and burst it. The other way is to fit some sort of pressure switch that will switch off the pump at the right time.

If your ballast tank is outside the pressure hull then your have to pump air into it surface and remove air to dive. In RCABS, you use a oneway air pump to pump air(from the pressure hull) back into the bag, thereby creating a  small vacuum in the pressure hull. To dive, you release air from the inflated bag via a valve (bicycle tire valve will do) into the pressure hull. As the pressure hull is under vacuum conditions, air will simply flow from the inflated bag back into the pressure hull without having to be pumped. A battery operated blood pressure machine (plenty of cheap new ones on eBay) are a good source for the air pump and bag.

The Engel ballast switch does not have a water detactor. It does have a loss of over pressure detctor. In a piston tank operated boat, you create an over pressure as you operate the tanks. If you have a leak this over presuure is neutalised. If there is a leak, the Engel switch detects that there is no overpressure being produced when the tanks are operated and presumes there must be a leak and blows the piston tank. Subtech sell loss of signal fail safe with a built in water dector.

colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2006, 09:48:16 pm »

thanks for that. however the engel swith unit i used did have two terminals where you fixed a lentgh of wire. if water got in it created a cct and operated the ballast tank bringing her up. i had one or two occassions where i didnt tighten up the sealing screw, water got weeped in and up she came.
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Mankster

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Re: seehund
« Reply #10 on: July 24, 2006, 10:12:23 pm »

thanks for that. however the engel swith unit i used did have two terminals where you fixed a lentgh of wire. if water got in it created a cct and operated the ballast tank bringing her up. i had one or two occassions where i didnt tighten up the sealing screw, water got weeped in and up she came.

Sounds you sacrificed the max depth sensor an pressure switch (1.8m?) that comes with the TAE unit and used those two wire as a water sensor? Nice mod!

colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2006, 10:16:16 pm »

not that new, did it last year. cant remember which unit it was though. did think it was standard. if i decide to use the engel switch i will make sure, so thanks for the heads up.
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Mankster

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Re: seehund
« Reply #12 on: July 25, 2006, 12:22:02 am »

not that new, did it last year. cant remember which unit it was though. did think it was standard. if i decide to use the engel switch i will make sure, so thanks for the heads up.

The BTS2 and TAE switches  come with 2 terminals to connect onto the depth sensor. Closing this circuit will blow the ballast.

colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #13 on: July 25, 2006, 06:46:15 pm »

if i remeber correctly the instructions suggested conecting it this way, cant lay claim to the mod. i aint that clever.
keep the hints coming.
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #14 on: July 25, 2006, 11:54:31 pm »


.... Colin, can't find that norbett brugen site - can you type out the full link perhaps and I'll check it out.... I'm still non the wiser, but keener than ever on getting a working sub!

Cheers

Brian
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2006, 10:02:33 am »


... Colin, I must have found the site you suggested after all (Norbert Bruggen) as I got an e-mail and enclosure with prices for the Revell VIIc conversion this morning from him... so thanks for that.

If anyone wants a copy I can e-mail it... let me know.

Cheers

Brian
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colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #16 on: July 26, 2006, 06:37:44 pm »

he does some other models as well. got my eye on the DELTA. different.
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #17 on: July 26, 2006, 07:06:23 pm »


... I really like that Austrian sub (UB1) - its very reminiscent of the John Biggins' book 'A sailor of Austria' - if you haven't read that (and the other 2 or 3 books in the series) you really haven't lived, they really are very special books!

Cheers

Brian
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anmo

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Re: seehund
« Reply #18 on: July 26, 2006, 07:27:44 pm »


... I really like that Austrian sub (UB1) - its very reminiscent of the John Biggins' book 'A sailor of Austria' - if you haven't read that (and the other 2 or 3 books in the series) you really haven't lived, they really are very special books!

Cheers Brian


Couldn't agree more, for years I thought I was the only person who'd read 'A Sailor of Austria', and now I've found a second one. Apart from being about a different country, a different war, a different sea and being set about twenty years earlier, it's Das Boot - the novel. If you liked the film, you'll love this book.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: seehund
« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2006, 07:31:39 pm »

Yes, I read it a while back too - very good.
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colin-stevens

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Re: seehund
« Reply #20 on: July 26, 2006, 09:03:15 pm »

got me dirty mits on a nozzle. not realy wot i wanted but its all i could get. never got an answer from the two suppliers i had reckomended, so settle for the Robbe 50mm. found the leaks in the radio box, thats tight now!!!!!!!!! fingers crossed, and am now making a mould for a silicon seal a mate is going to pour for me. then i can find out wether i have made the ballast tank big enough.
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petesubman

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Re: seehund
« Reply #21 on: July 26, 2006, 09:57:36 pm »

I have really nice working model of ub1, this is one of norberts boats, it really does run well, Pete
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2006, 07:21:41 am »


.... looks good - thanks for that.

I think I'm gonna have to go for the Revell kit as a starter for ten - and then who knows after that if it goes OK?

Cheers, Brian
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #23 on: July 27, 2006, 07:59:20 am »


.... come to think of it, which system is the best one to go for, for the Revell VIIc kit - Norbert's or Big Dave's??
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ambernblu

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Re: seehund
« Reply #24 on: July 27, 2006, 10:36:45 am »


.... I've just ordered Norbert's book 'Model Submarine Technology  MST2 - £14.95' On-line from Traplet Publications. 

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