To a noob like me - any one who can decipher and construct a hull frame from that drawing deserves;
"(Can I add medicinal sustenance to this bill?) Bryan."
any amount of sustenance, medical or not! (tax free)
regards
Gary :)
Gary. A swift guide to the drawing...with thanks to Colin....
1....Forget the "fashion plate" at the top of the right-hand side. This has nothing to do with the hull, and can be added (much) later.
2....Forget where it says "Rail". This is an odd expression, but on measuring up it is where the "rail" fits into the deck....i.e, the deck level rather than the top of the rail. That one threw me for a bit.
3....Forget anything that begins with "FR". These are frames and not stations, and stations are really what modellers should work to. Frames are traditionally only 22" apart. Doing that will give nervous breakdowns to any model builder.
4....Forget the "Line of WT Flat" and "Line of Panting Stringer". Panting only means that the ship can "pant" (like your lungs) when going into a head sea. So some strengthening is required. For a model, forget it.
5....Note the 7" camber on the decks. That is 7" over a beam of 25'. Very noticeable. Many modellers just lay the decks "flat" and then wonder why it looks "wrong". I shal use about 3/16ths" on the model.
6....You will notice a "rise of floor" of 4". That just means that the bottom of the ship isn't flat by 4" per side. As near as dammit flat. So I have chopped 1/8" off the bottom to let the eventual model sit flat instead of "wobbling".
My eventual waterline will be somewhere around the "8" above the 12' waterline mark.
I have now printed off 12 copies of the section drawings at the size I want. 23cm wide and 20.5 cm deep. Now I can work out how much 3/16" ply I need for the sections, plus a 60" x 12" bit for the longitudinal profile.
Making sense so far? BY.