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Author Topic: Bottom of Springer  (Read 7543 times)

fuelman8

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Bottom of Springer
« on: July 23, 2008, 12:57:38 PM »
What's the best way to bend the bottom sheeting onto my springer build?

The wood's about 1/8 inch (not sure what metric measurement is) ???

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barryfoote

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2008, 01:45:00 PM »
I have just done mine and used 1mm ply sheeting. This bends easily to the shape. That said, I am no expert but it worked for me. No way would I try wood of that thickness..

Barry
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toesupwa

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2008, 01:53:48 PM »
Quote from: fuelman8 on July 23, 2008, 12:57:38 PM
What's the best way to bend the bottom sheeting onto my springer build?

The wood's about 1/8 inch (not sure what metric measurement is) ???



With wood (ply?) of that thickness you will have severe problems bending it to shape. Best way would be to cut it in to 1/2" wide strips and plank the hull from side to side.. then sand the bottom to shape.
If you dont fancy that, get some 1/16" ply.. that will bend to the shape of the bottom of the hull.. maybe with a 10 minute soak in the bath, that helps getting the wood to bend to shape.
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2008, 01:58:04 PM »

"If you dont fancy that, get some 1/16" ply.. "

And if you want it stronger, just use two layers!  O0

....... are you expecting to go into battle against SteamboatPhil's Springer class battleship?!  :)
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2008, 05:01:06 PM »
Crew have had their grog and are ready---bring it on !!!!!!!!!!   
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Steamed up all the time

fuelman8

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2008, 05:18:22 PM »
Thanks for the advice. O0

I think i'll go with the 1/16" as Toes suggested being as I haven't bought the wood yet.

The only battle this will be going into is bringing back stalled or brokedown boats.
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Arrow5

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2008, 05:44:35 PM »
1/16th ply is adequate, just a few wooden cross braces at strategic points such as ply joint, motor mount and one about the waterline at the bow. Skin with lightweight fibreglass if you are paranoiac O0
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BobF

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2008, 07:04:07 PM »
I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but I have made a few of these hulls, and I use ply with the grain across the hull not length wise, as would be normal.
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Arrow5

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2008, 07:33:58 PM »
I always thought that grain crosswise was normal. Much easier to follow the curves. Of course that means a joint as the sheets normaly come 1ft wide, a cross-bar at joint solves this. I put in some sprigs/panel pins for safety :embarrassed:
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fuelman8

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #9 on: July 24, 2008, 09:58:45 AM »
Thanks for the advice mates

Arrow, what are sprigs and panel pins ???
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Arrow5

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #10 on: July 24, 2008, 11:05:43 AM »
Very small nails, say 1/2" long with flat heads.  Panel pins are longer, usualy have oval heads that can be countersunk slightly and the hole filled. Brass or normal nail metal versions available. Try B&Q or picture framers. I use them as belt and braces in case epoxy "pops".
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fuelman8

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2008, 09:55:28 AM »
Used the 1/16" ply and it formed to the bottom like a glove with the grain crosswise 8)
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mogogear

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2008, 03:41:44 AM »
Stupid n00b alert...So Ply.....?  ply -Wood? But you said "not wood" ?? Not Styrene.... I am more new to this than could be believed.. If it has a grain then it is a particular kind of wood.....

Thanks for no thrown rocks :embarrassed:

cheers
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Arrow5

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #13 on: July 31, 2008, 08:33:34 AM »
The 1.5mm or 1/16" plywood available in model shops normally sold in 12" x 36" sheets in the U.K. is  usually close grained birch.  It will bend easier in one direction than the other due to two of the three layers have the grain aligned and one crossways.  Suppliers of homebuilt fullsize aircraft parts are a good source of larger sized sheets. Thinner 1/32" or 1mm (approx) is available, usefull for skinning foam or making tiny details.    1/64" or 0.5mm is also available "Mirralite" again for model aircraft skinning.
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mogogear

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2008, 06:05:03 AM »
Ok - Good then- PLY ,means the same thing on either side of the pond... Ply wood-- _ I was being overly careful... :embarrassed:

What is the average ballast weight for a Springer??
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Roger in France

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2008, 06:22:13 AM »
When buying sprigs/nails/pins try to get non-ferrous as even when countersunk, filled and painted anything else will corrode and stain. Check carefully before you buy as some items are cheaply plated.

Roger in France.
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toesupwa

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2008, 07:31:04 PM »
Quote from: mogogear on August 01, 2008, 06:05:03 AM

What is the average ballast weight for a Springer??

To get a Springer down to the waterline you will need to ballast @ 8lb...

Though Scoot, Mustang Sally are nearly in the 10lb region... I have yet to weigh WW...  :embarrassed: :o
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chingdevil

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #17 on: August 01, 2008, 10:18:18 PM »
Toes is about right with the weight, mine all weigh in the region of 5kg. Use batteries as the ballast, at least they have a use rather than a dumb piece of lead.


Brian
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Mr Andy

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Re: Bottom of Springer
« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2008, 08:05:17 PM »
I used thin balsa wood sheet on the bottom of mine steamed in place with a wall paper stripper. :-)

Andy. :-))
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