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[patchwork45]

? Hello all,
I picked up this car type esc for a boat I am building.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZX1&P=0


Because Im new at rc stuff, I didnt realize that getting it wet is not a good thing.
Is it possable to take it apart and waterproof the circuit board or should I just sell it on ebay and chuck it up to experance.

? Thanks ,

? ? ? ? ? ? ?Patch

[bluesy]

Many off-road RC drivers put both the ESC and the Reciever in balloons.  I know it sounds weird but it works.  I've driven cars and monster trucks through fairly deep puddles without any damage.  I did the same when I started building boats and took advantage of the electronics I had left over when I moved on from the RC "wheeled world".

Hope this helps.

Doug

[patchwork45]

  Thanks for the information Doug,
Your ballon idea is less risky than taking apart the esc.
Ill give it a go,better than losing money on ebay.

  Thanks again

    Patch

[bluesy]

If you can't find a balloon with a large enough neck I suppose a condom would do!!!

*snicker*

doug

[splodger]

If you can't find a balloon with a large enough neck I suppose a condom would do!!!

*snicker*

doug

A condom? "This ESC is completely Fxcxed!!!!"

[patchwork45]

? Another use for a condom!
They arnt just party favors anymore

[The_Ships_Cat]

You could pop it in a marigold rubber glove and tie wrap it to hold it in position. Check that you do not have any pots to setup on the controller before you seal it up. I do not normally bother to waterproof speed controllers , unless for a fast electric.
The Ships Cat

[Seaspray]

just watch what you put it into, it does generate heat. Mine is in a  high position in one boat and has a cover over it (splash proof) the other one.

martin

[Doc]

Can they be water proofed?  Yes, but it isn't all that simple/easy to do.  There are various products used to 'pot' electronics.  One of them should be possible to use, sort of.  The problem is in how it's done and how much heat has to be dissipated by the ESC.  You don't wanna 'mess' with the heat sinks on an ESC, that usually leads to less heat being dissipated.  Balloons, boxes, rubber gloves, whatever can be used by the same thing applies about heat.  It is 'do-able' though.
 - 'Doc
 

[patchwork45]

Yes, the heat sink problem,
I see that the only drawback to the ballon/condom(lol)/glove solution is heat dissapation.
I know that 3M makes a waterproof electrical connector paint?.
I used it on a servo board with no ill effects , meaning that it didnt eat up the circuit board, didnt test it as far as water proof though because the servo never went under water............I used it in my combat warship and I havent been sunk yet....touch wood.
 :)
I suppose I could just make up a batch of epoxy and open up the esc and poor it all in....LOL
 

   Patch

[Doc]

Patch,
That's not as big a joke as you might think!
 - 'Doc

[patchwork45]

  Hello Doc,
Well....maybe I wasnt laughting all that loud

As I understand it, "potting" is essentualy pouring epoxy or resin over electronics, so I guess (because I havnt taken the darn thing apart yet)the trick would be to "pot" the innards ,
both sides of the board,
but still keep the heatsink thermal contact patch intact,,

 What do you think?

 Patch

[splodger]

Electronics is very definitely not my specialist subject, but I think there may be hidden dangers in encapsulating a car type speed controller with epoxy. I've never tried it, but I remember well when a well known UK manufacturer called M-Tronic did this with their excellent M-Sonic speed controllers, they went overnight from one of the best products on the market, to something that retailers were returning to M-Tronic in hundreds after many customers reported failures. They got it right in the end of course, and current (encapsulated) M-Sonic ESCs are back to being just about the best things of their kind around. I don't know any of the the details, but this suggests to me that just pouring epoxy into a speed controller could just be a bit more problematic than it seems at first sight. Aren't there special epoxies purpose made for this kind of thing?

[Shipmate60]

Either put the controller in a waterproof box, or site it where water is unlikely to get.
Such as a shelf inside the superstructure combing, but with a gap round it except for the bearers.
I make my shelves removable to get access under them.

Bob

[aston]

you don't mention what sort of boat you are sticking this in, but by the assumption that you expect it to get wet i expect you are looking at a fast electric model, or a leaky one where you think there is a good chance of it getting wet.  Most scale models tend to stay dry, and as an extra margin, you could use servo tape and stick it somewhere well above "water" level.  That way the only time it should get wet is if you sink it.  If that happens, an iffy speed control will be the last of your worries  ::)

Aston

[patchwork45]

Im actually putting the speed controller in this childs toy that I am/have converted to RC.

I saw that someone did the same thing in a picture taken at one of the shows Martin posts at the Mayhem website.
Just a Fun project,as my wife says "its suppose to be fun, isn't it"

Anyway, its a Playmobile pirate ship and even though it comes with a ballast for playing in the water,you can see that the sails could catch a gust of wind and the whole thing gets up ended.....

 Hence the concern about the waterproof speed control......

I am powering it with a 280 size motor so heat might not be an issue?

As I said, I am new to rc so I appreciate everyone's advice.

 Patch

[Too Large - attachment deleted by admin]

[Doc]

Everybody has a good point, 'potting' electronics isn't the easiest thing to do mainly because of what is used for the 'potting'.  Anything with an acid content is bad news, and if it's conductive it's easier to just beat the thing to death rather than mess with water proofing it. 
While 'plain' old glue/epoxy might work in some cases, it certainly won't in all.  I wish I could remember the name of the stuff (CRS syndrom), there used to be some stuff that was clear, stayed soft, and would 'heal' any cuts/punctures to it's self.  You could even make adjustments through this stuff.  It was used in manufacturing, not a common 'off the shelf' sort of thing.  Oh well, I probably couldn't aford it anyway.
Giver the balloon thingy a try.  No idea how much heat will be generated so it might be the way to go.
 - 'Doc

PS - If the boat starts to hoover you know there's too much heat.  Be careful when you pop the balloon, you may have to chase the boat...

[RickF]

I think most silicone sealants would be safe. We used to use "Silcoset" around low-voltage electrics at work - 9V stuff for illumination and LCDs on TV studio and Outside Broadcast use.

Rick

[Fast Electricals]

I tried to waterproof a servo circuit board using normal silicon bath sealant and it killed it. Not one to be disheartened, I then decided to try and waterproof a receiver using normal 5 minute epoxy and it worked a treat. The epoxy was spread around all the components (excluding the connectors) using a match so that anything that could conduct electricity was covered. I left the receiver in the airing cupboard overnight before applying power. The stuff I used came from the local pound shop but I cannot vouch for any other makes.

I have waterproofed a car style ESC by sealing the case with epoxy. The metal tabs of the FETS (these are the components that stick out of the top of the box) were left alone so that cooling was not affected, but any gaps in the case were sealed with either epoxy or insulating tape. The insulating tape was used over the holes which were provided for adjustment. This could be removed if I had to make any adjustments later.

Neil   

[patchwork45]

 I have heard that using silicon seal that has a vinager smell to it will ruin copper... they called it the black wire effect...I guess the smell is the result of the acid it the mix?


  Alan

 

[RC John]

I open up my receiver cases, carefully mask off the servo pins an Xtl socket and spray two coats of Electrolube SCC3 Conformal Coating. The reference on my can is DCA200H. Make sure the first coat is dry before spraying the second coat.
It has proved sucessful for me.

[sheerline]

Hello all you car chaps! Although I am a submarine type, I happened to stray onto this dialogue about esc's and thought I'd throw in my tuppenceworth.The M/Troniks esc's work well in the subs and are pre-potted to make them waterpoof. They also do a range for the cars but I am sure you all know about that anyway. The main point I wanted to make was about potting electronics. Normal pourable silicone rubber is ideally suited to the job and will truly seal up your boards. The only problems arising from this is repairing of the item as it becomes nigh impossible to gain access to the components.
Someone tried using bath sealant but thats a 'no no' since that stuff contains formic acid to make it cure and it will fist kill the electronics then devour the circuit board for lunch!
Hope my comments  have been of help here....  Chris 

[doug.g]

Hi

There is an easy and cheep way of sealing circuit boards and electronics and that is to use clear nail polish. I was shown this and have tried this myself on the rescue helicopters I work on to ensure there is no moisture ingress into the autopilot and other electrical circuitry with great sucess, it does not conduct or corrode.
Hope this can be of some help.
Doug G

[wombat]

Hi,

As mentioned by RC John, Conformal Coating is perhaps the best way to go if you want to actually protect the PCB. The board should be liberally coated - particularly the ICs - if water gets under the legs it can cause mayhem.

I wonder, though, if this is a bit OTT. I suggest that you splash-proof the case - silicone seal around the edges and the connectors. This should IMHO be OK unless you sink the boat. In that case, get the power off ASAP. If you use proper silicone rather than acrylic sealer, keep it well away from the electronics - the sealant gives off acetic acid which will rot the connections.

Soaked PCBs can be cleaned up quite easily - wash the board thoroughly in clean tap water - liberally rinse it. place the board vertically in a warm place and let it dry naturally. If there is significant residue, use an aqueous board cleanser followed by a suitable rinse agent (try RS or Farnell). Relays are, in my opinion,? probably better replaced as the effects on the contacts, particularly if power has been on them while submersed can be damaging.

Wombat