sinjon
that's a yes, so long as you can solder reliably
I'm assuming that the pack is two sticks of cells, probably shrink-wrapped together with pos and neg coming off that same end.
cut off the heatshrink - it has to go. BE VERY CAREFUL if the cells are bare metal not to lay it down on anything metallic - even a pin!
The sticks may be bonded together - usually with hot melt glue. Take no nonsense - separate them
There will be a link at the end opposite to the leads and plug - probably welded on-stainless strip. Cut this in the middle using strong scissors/shears
Now is a good time to protect the two lines of cells using (preferably heat-shrink) but failing that cardboard tube (good enough for B&D) or wrap with tape
Now you are going to fit a replacement link where you cut
The ideal link is silicone insulated wire but there are lots of options including knitted braid, or even household solid electrical cable 2.5 mm2 or larger (this will eventually break from vibration)
Clean the old (cut) strap within an inch of its life - scrape, sand with wet and dry, degreease with meths, cellulose thinners or better still acetone.
Note: is is FAR better to solder to the strip metal connector than to solder to the battery end itself
Note 2; all soldering to batteries (of any sort) needs to be short and sweet (to avoid overheating the contents of the battery)
so you need:
a good flux (I use an acid plumbers flux, and WASH IT OFF) but there are nickel fluxes made for the job
A Hot Iron - I used 15W for years but 25W or bigger is normally advised
Good solder
Tin the wire ends of the joiner wire
Tin the nice clean joiner strip ends
Solder the joiner wire to the cut bits of the strip (quickly, hotly and neatly)
cool off - wash off flux if its an acid type, remove with meths if its a resin type
insulate the soldered ends - heat shrink or Insulating tape
viola - a spaced pack!
Sorry if your grandmother already knows how to suck eggs
Did I mention
clean and
quick?
andrew