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[Capt. Spaulding]

I'm hoping that some of the more-experienced modelers here can share a few hints about how to -- and/or, how not to -- attach a brass rudder skeg (about 1/4" wide) to a fiberglass hull (in this case, a 24" tugboat). Thank you very much for the help.

Cheers,
Capt. Spaulding

[ian kennedy]

Hi capt spalding,
Do you need the skeg to be removable so you can remove the rudder?
If so my usual method is to do the following;

1, Get hold of some small matching size brass nuts and bolts. I usually use 6ba thread size

2, Cut a strip of brass to fit the inside edge of the hull (inside the keel)

3, on one side of the strip clean/degrease and mark the hole centres and drill two holes.

4, transfer the position of the holes in the brass plate to the inside of the keel and drill through the hull

5, solder two brass nuts to the pre-drilled brass strip

6, put some oil or grease into the threads of the nuts and wind the bolts int them from the outside of the hull

7, bond the brass strip int the inside of the hull with glass fibre resin and  matting (torn up into small pieces)

8, wait a day for the resin to cure and bob's your uncle... i have used this method for abot 20+ years with no problems

I hope this helps and good luck!

[Capt. Spaulding]

Many thanks. That sounds like a straightforward, sensible approach. Unfortunately, the space I'm working with inside the keel is very narrow (less than 1/4" wide).

I have thought of fashioning a wood "plug" to fit into the inside of the keel, driving screws up into the wood through holes in the skeg and the hull, and then securing the wood in place with epoxy. Might that work? Or, is there a better way to work in such a small space?         

[bosun]

Hy Capt Spaulding
The way you describe of screwing through the skeg in to the hull and through to the wooden block is fine. just remember to seal the wooden plug inside the hull, I use a small amount of fibreglass resin mix, or flocoat, poured down onto the plug, not to much as it can get a bit hot. I seal the skeg on the outside with a thin layer of mastic and then screw through makeing sure that I have countersunk enough to bury the screws, and have had no problems with any leaks. Removing the skeg to get at the prop/shaft is then fairly straight forward and easy, remove the screws and slide a craft knife under the skeg and its off, make sure to clean it all before you replace it.
Bosun

[Capt. Spaulding]

Much appreciated, Bosun. Another good, practical suggestion. (I'll get that d--n thing in there yet!)

Any other folks have methods that they have relied on over the years?