Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5   Go Down

Author Topic: OH NO Another Slo-Mo  (Read 35628 times)

Hagar

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #50 on: February 02, 2009, 08:01:08 PM »

just letting you guys know i haven't forgot about yas

just working my way slowly into the new year and i will start building again very shortly in the next week or so and more photos and updates will continue

srry bout the time taken

cheers guys

BOB

So its bleeping cold in your shed to then. (thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it)!!!
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #51 on: February 02, 2009, 09:51:27 PM »

COLD HAHAHAHAHAHA
yesterday it was 38 degrees outside let alone in my shed

i should have some photos by the end of the week as i just started doing the mahogany stripsi had a few family probs over christmas (nothing serious) and i was working mainly on a new yacht

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #52 on: February 10, 2009, 11:14:57 AM »

well another day another blister

hi all i have started doing the mahogany strips along the top of the deck but alas i have not taken any photos at the moment. i am taking a little time with this as the photo's will explain,

what i have been up to is this
1. dry fit all hardware.

this was a little difficult as the interior is now getting a little cramped basically what i have done is bend the stuffing tube to the correct angle the holes drilled in the frames are ok but the last one was way off the mark being too low for my motor but that has now been remedied, cut the flex cable to the correct length marked out approx position of batteries i will be using 2, one on either side also makes it easier to balance up. i have cut all the cooling hose to size so it will be easier later on when i have resined the hull all i will have to do then is just put it on and tighten up with cable ties.

 
2. mark out and prepare servo mounting position

all i have done here was mark a position in the rear of the boat as to where i want the servo i will use a small hitec HS65 HB servo which should serve the purpose but this will be one of the last things that i will do as it will be easier at a latter stage.

3. prime and first coat the ABS Moulded engine cowling and exhaust tray and sort out hatch

I found some Fire engine Red spay cans down at the local hardware so i got started and the exhaust trays have been painted gloss black I am going to permanently fix the exhaust trays onto the hull the hatch i am not going to cut any funny shape out of it so the driver can sit in there instead i am going to cut the chair and driver down so it still looks as if they are still there and paint around them in black. i have decided that the hatch will be held down using rare earth magnets and as i am fixing the rear fin onto the hatch i will put a pin or dowel into the fin so the hatch locks down tight when the pin is placed into the rear of the boat.

I have found a magical product called Timber Mate this was referred to me by a friend who makes solid timber furniture basically it is a coloured putty that is rubbed into holes, cracks, splits and such in your veneers i found 8 different colours and the bloke that sold it too me said that many more are available to order i ended up getting the jarrah coloured one as it matches the mahogany veneer quite well. i will apply this to my veneer just before i do final sanding for the resin.

anyhow guys i will get photo's to ya as soon as i can get a new camera

Cheers

Steamboatbob
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #53 on: February 18, 2009, 10:00:12 AM »

Photos and progress as promised

1


this shows the extra wood i am adding to get the ride hight proper this was done by gluing 4 strips of balsa using a resin glue together on each side i will shape this soon and show you guys the end result as i will resin the bottom again as soon as i have done the shaping as i don't want any nasty dents to be put in the balsa as it is a very soft wood (really funny thing is balsa is classed as a hardwood O0 %) !!!!!!!) many thanks to minnjoe for pointing that little fix out to me
I was going to use a more solid wood but i realised that in speed boats that weight is a major part of the whole so balsa wish a few penetrating coats of resin will do the trick and it has a few layers of 24 hr epoxy between the sandwiched blocks

easiest way to do this was to get 4 pieces of balsa 2 different sizes epoxy them together and clamp overnight, then cut to the sizes you want after epoxy has taken hold, glue the longer one down first and clamp, wait overnight, then epoxy the smaller one on top, then sand to shape, resulting in a very rigid but light section.

the other main reason for using this sandwich method rather than 1 big block was the fact that the place I am gluing onto was not flat and the sandwiched sections conform to the shape with minimal fuss. O0 :-))

2.


this is showing the veneering that i have done and yes i split a little bit which i will show you guys how to fix later on i wasn't watching when i was sanding and the sandpaper lifted the veneer and split it and as a very unfortunate accident i could not locate the piece that came off :((

thats it for the moment guys

see ya soon

any questions or comments please throw them on here and ill answer them as best i can

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #54 on: March 21, 2009, 01:21:57 AM »

Finally some more progress



it is not much but it a few less headaches about this boat anyhow as you can see i have put the strips up to the front of the engine cowling at this point. i have installed a graupner 600bb sp motor inside as i will use this to test first and then go brushless as i would like to keep my spending down a little and i had the speed 600 in an old jet boat.



as you can see in this image the cover has warped a little but this will be rectified if i can find some decent hatch clips but in essence i hill glue and screw the tail fin onto the hatch and place a pin i the end of it so it is locked down from the rear and possibly use some rare earth magnets to lock in the front the engine cover is totally removable but i have decided that i will glue the exhaust bays (or Bloody white things  :} ORBY) to the hull i have put the hadware on atm only for aesthetic reasons and also to find a balance point as the centre of gravity needs to be at least 2 inches behind the front sponsons and atm mine is very nose heavy.

more to come in a week or so  O0 unless the boss has her way  :embarrassed:

and if anyone knows where to get decent hatch clips from can you please post on here as i am pretty desperate in this area

i will show you guys soon how to make sure your veneer lines up when you have all these angles and get it nice

have a nice week

Steamboatbob




Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #55 on: March 31, 2009, 02:45:28 PM »

WOOHOO I FINISHED THE MAHOGANY STRIPS

now a lot of prep work and sanding are looming ahead

I ran into a mate of mine who makes jewellery boxes for a living and does all his own strips and the rest of that and the best bit of advice he gave me for using cyano on veneer was to rub the veneer strips down with a little bit of 180 grit sand paper first on both sides to get rid of the fur that is evident on all veneer strips as this can lead to bubbles or uneven surfaces. also if you have a compressor for say an airbrush, blow out the veneer with air to get rid of the dust that gets everywhere and causes your veneer not to stick and also creates irregularities in the surface ( do not i repeat do not get a wet rag and wipe the hull down as moisture can ruin your surfaces and makes the veneer go hairy as the smaller particles in the timber swell with the moisture).

photos will be updated this week as it is too late to do it atm.

laters all

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #56 on: April 01, 2009, 12:56:52 PM »

ok here are the pics for you guys

this one shows you how much difference a scraper can make to your veneer finish the right side has been done the left has just been lightly sanded






on this photo it shows how they line up now i had to ad a 4mm sliver of veneer on the right side to line it up but it is almost unnoticeable after sanding and scraping a little more finishing the veneer then its off to get some resin coats

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #57 on: April 04, 2009, 03:21:51 AM »

OK time to have a good look at the veneer work before i go ahead and resin up the deck

i found some points on the veneer which had not stuck down and as they are in close proximity to good veneer that i don't want messed up i will show you guys how to fix this.

firstly you can go out and buy a needle ( i know that may be unsavory for a few of you guys but it is the best way ) i for one don't like to have needles in the house regardless of what they are for i have a 3yo daughter and i have enough trouble keeping her out of my study without the worry of this.
So the other way is to find a cheap bottle of precision cement (the ones with the metal applicator Revell have an excellent one) and get rid of all the glue i poured mine out in my backyard over an ants nest to kill the little suckers off.
Step 2
sharpen the metal end of the applicator with a bit of 180 grit and a block as it is imperative that it remains sharp this is so you can pierce the veneer if you need to to glue down a bubble.
step 3
check that it works by squeezing out the air and letting it suck up some water and then squeeze out the water and make sure it works

here is mine sorry about the blurry photo but it's the best i can do with my camera

now set yourself up for a little bit coffee beer etc  O0

and use the sharpened glue pot to suck up a little cyano and push it under the veneer this way you don't get cyano everywhere and get rid of the veneer blisters now if you have a blister in the middle of a veneer strip you can use the sharp end to puncture through the veneer leaving a small enough mark to fill with coloured putty and no-one but yourself will know the difference  :} :}



then its time for an ale :-))
 
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #58 on: April 04, 2009, 10:57:51 AM »

OK i spent all morning doing my preparation so i decided to go ahead and do the first coat of epoxy
I am using a particular brand called WEST SYSTEM it has a slow hardener which at 20 degrees sets in around 1 hour and has a 20 minute working time but also produces a brilliant finish. this system was produced for the wooden boat builders so it is perfect for model boats and has no odour like some epoxies so you won't pass out while doing it.


this is everything all set out ready to mix and make the syringes are to get the correct amount as it is a 5:1 mix ratio of resin to hardener. i also have a plastic ruler snapped in two so i can paint on the epoxy and remove the excess with this to get a nice flat coating. Loads of paper weighted down as i don't want to come out later and find the paper stuck to the boat. the ice cream bucket (well washed) :-) is for mixing the resin in I am using a pad applicator the bright yellow thingy. and paper towelling for any accidents that arise and wiping the rulers of excess resin when i scrape the hull.



sorry bout the images my wife was the photographer in these instances but anyhow after applicating, i used the rulers to scrape the excess resin off and i followed the grain direction and after each scrape i wiped the ruler edge with the paper towelling untill i get a slight covering. Enough so that no raised pockets of resin were visible. At this stage all you really need is to have a satin look to the epoxy and after subsequent coats the gloss will start to build up. I waited 5 mins after the application of the resin for it to soak into the timber and veneer before scraping.

you may get a little beading on sharp edges after scraping the epoxy off use the paper towelling to get rid of this make sure you get good quality paper towelling as the cheap stuff will embed itself into the veneer at this stage and is nasty to get rid of.



and here she is with the first coat done






and many more coats to go

i am thinking about doing around 5-7 coats but as the manufacturer recomends to do the next coat between 8-24hrs after the first or 7 days i shall ponder this and do another coat tomorrow.

cheers guys

BOB :}
Logged

Sunshine

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #59 on: April 05, 2009, 09:54:11 AM »

G'day Bob,
              Well you have come a lonmg way since I saw it about 2 weeks ok, starting to look the part now, pity
at the length of time between coats of epoxy (24 hrs or 7 days) still will have a great finish when  it's done

Sunshine
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #60 on: April 05, 2009, 12:31:30 PM »

Second coat has been done  :}

still now a long wait till next coat will go on or any work to be done as I sail next weekend and on top of that its easter as well but i shall endevour to get some more work done

it looks a little better after second coat but i will post photos of each coat on the one post to show ppl what it looks like

i had a little test hull which i just used a paint brush on and left it alone on one side and im glad that i did not go that way as the finish was too thick and looks very badbut it is only a future club boat for people to come and play with (motorised version of the scottish maid by artesania latina) that my 2 yo dropped on the floor and destroyed the rigging it's now being transformed into a little fishing boat  :embarrassed:

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #61 on: April 12, 2009, 11:13:16 AM »

Found out one thing paper is an excellent former when using resin i used the fast setting hardener in this one dabbed a bit on the sides to make the paper stick, the paper can be sanded off later or painted over and then fill in the hollows while getting the sponsons to the correct height i used balsa which is very light but not very structurally sound until resin gets to it so while forming some chunks of the balsa came out requiring me to do this



on the front piece you can see the height of the resin (the dark watermark above the pink line) the lighter watermark was from moving the paper around a little bit

i only used a piece of scrap printer paper

 :-))
Logged

ronkh

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #62 on: April 12, 2009, 01:10:07 PM »

Looking very nice Bob.

Great idea with the Revell applicator.
I used to gently pry up wood that had not stuck properly and not always with the desired result. Hopefully, using this way will help.

Ron.
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #63 on: April 18, 2009, 06:02:28 AM »

Hi guys

well after a little diligence and hard work I'm almost done with epoxy the top and sides are finished at least with one more coat to go on the bottom i ended up doing 6 coats on the veneer and have done 4 coats on the bottom and here she is after the final coat that was put down today




there are only 2 imperfections in the veneer that have shown up and there is nothing i can do about it now but overall i am very happy :D

i have found a little spray can clear to do the final coat to protect from UV light as the epoxy will not stop the timber from changing colour and that can be annoying after all the trials i have done i would still recommend a small hobby roller to apply the epoxy and then scrape off excess with a plastic ruler or old credit card gets the best finish. I tried a few different things but went for this on my final coat. I still need to add the colour but overall i am quite overjoyed if ya need a pointer sing out and i will see what i can do but i thoroughly will stand behind the west system brand for marine epoxies :-)) in RC boat building
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #64 on: April 21, 2009, 02:18:31 PM »

OK next section is easier, I just need to buy a few cans of spray paint. Basically Red and silver

I found a half used can of clear spray enamel in the shed and have given the boat a few light licks of clear to get a nice glass finish for the epoxy and much to my surprise it turned out to give the veneer a slight pearlescent effect which looks absolutely brilliant so i might have to hunt down some more. and when the colours have been purchased i will have a look at doing the pretty stuff now that the hard slog is over



and yes i did build the chair in the background for a bit of fun O0

but anyhow on with the news

this week i have just received the last of my main hardware except the transmitter/receiver The props now i wont go into a big thing here about props as i honestly don't know that much i ended up finding a program called FECALC.exe but i cannot remember where i got it from basically you tell it the values ie motor type, ESC, voltage, boat type and it tells you what props are a good one to get

so the hardware going into my beastie is

- Fullers Fast electric hydro package ( rudder, flex shaft, etc)
- 600BB Motor (to be possibly upgraded at a later date to a brushless system)
- Proboat 60 AMP ESC
- octura 1732 prop
- old micro server found in the shed  :embarrassed:
- Etti Large ESC cooling plate
- the motor mount i purchased from offshore electrics at a total cost of $17.00 USD
and the approximate layout will be as shown here
the COG (centre of gravity is around 70mm from the back of the sponsons which is about right) all i need to do now is to get some paint and get cracking
Logged

AndyB

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #65 on: April 22, 2009, 09:18:01 PM »

where did you find the plans for this model, something i would love to build and looks really good
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #66 on: April 23, 2009, 09:07:42 AM »

Hi andy

Not plans mate it is a kit from Billings boats and should be available through most hobby shops, be warned though the instructions are not very good but there are enough builds on the forum to put you in the right direction  :-))

cheers
Steamboatbob
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #67 on: April 28, 2009, 12:45:17 PM »

Hi Guys

well things were going absolutely fantastic i got the masking tape out i purchased some red and silver paint at the local hardware shop got home masked the boat up cut out the templates i had for the red on the hull (i did sand it down beforehand with a little 240 grit). sprayed the white undercoat i had on waited a day for it to dry, then sprayed the red and waited another day then sprayed some clear over the top.

and here she is


then just as i was taking the photo DISASTERI realised i had put my finger on the red and had somehow moved the paint causing it to slide so somewhere in my prepwork i had not done something right as the clear over the mahogany doesn't slide and the red slides like buggery.

So the fix to this is scrape the paint off and start again i could use turps but that will be messy and as the resin has cured now it will be non reactive to most chemicals so anyhow i will scrape and sand and scrape and sand and scrape and sand

OH WELL We have to realise at some point that not all things in a build goes to plan.

Till next time

Steamboatbob

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #68 on: April 29, 2009, 03:16:59 PM »

Well after scraping all the red paint off i have decided to give another coat of resin as the top looks pretty shite at the moment then i will go 1 clear then colour and hopefully i can leave little finger marks off them.

but the other clever idea i had during the past few days was to get rid of the hatch i had cut out of the top section and replace it with one made from ABS which i will show you guys later on how to do

bye for now

Steamboatbob
Logged

Martin [Admin]

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19,060
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #69 on: April 29, 2009, 04:13:10 PM »

What a bitch but we're nearly all done that trick!  >:-o
What you reckon, the paint and resin incomparable?

Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!"    -   Mayhem FaceBook Group!

martno1fan

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,506
  • Location: Blackpool
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #70 on: April 29, 2009, 04:28:32 PM »

Thats such a shame but i bet its the enamel,try and stay away from enamel if you can ,Far better go with car paints from your local car outlet.Acrylic paint is good too and will go over epoxy no problem.
Mart
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #71 on: April 30, 2009, 01:57:12 PM »

I think it was more of a case of me being an over eager modler and trying to get things done too soon  :embarrassed: I really should have given the coats at least one day each to dry before applying the colour, i found that it was the adhesion between the undercoat and the colour that was the problem so i will change this before the next attempt.

Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #72 on: May 15, 2009, 01:24:30 PM »

OK guys i thought it was time for a status update

atm i have just finished re-epoxying the deck to get a nice smooth finish just going to give a nice spray job of clear this weekend to get to where i was before the red went on.

but i had one major change to the hull after a few ponderings and a bit of free styrene came my way. i have replaced the hatch with styrene which is a lot easier to work with and it also gave me an excuse to get rid of the exhaust cowlings which were giving me the SH*TS (srry bout the language martin).and it also allows me to just use hatch tape to keep the hatch watertight during runs still can veneer the styrene to give it that original look it just means you have to sand the styrene and key it a little so the glue sticks. so all in all i am looking at sea trials within one month and i will try to get a video if sunshine can come down and help %).

the other bit of news i have is that i got my parcels in the mail a 110A ESC from ebay  i just hope it works well and i got the radio gear as well  so i have all the items now I'm just waiting for paint to dry  :}

Cheers


Steamboatbob
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #73 on: May 21, 2009, 02:48:36 PM »

woohoo she is looking good tonight



i ended up getting the red done during the week and she now looks a treat. i gave it three days to cure before i sanded down the ridges from masking up and I ended up sanding the whole boat to get rid of a few minor imperfections. oh yeah i used 800 grit wet dry paper to get rid of the lines and bring up the surface all nice and smooth. I then got bored and decided to put the stickers on the hull as they will only get 1 or 2 coats of clear over the top of them. now a few little pointers on sanding, i used the following types of paper on this job and when

-80 grit - this stuff is for the hard yards ripping back bulk material very quickly like getting the frames nice and angled for the planks to go on
-180 grit - general all purpose to make things look nice and neat and good when planking
- 240 grit- fine stuff used with a block on the veneer to make flat also useful for stripping back red paint  :embarrassed:
- 800 wet dry - really fine stuff for getting rid of masking lines and a very handy prep before clear coats  only use by hand this does not need an orbital sander
- 1600 wet dry - i will use this to give it an all over buff after the final coat has gone on as it will get rid of some blemishes. 


the other bit of good news i had today was the fact that a new motor came my way a super stock RZ by Tamiya  the basics of it is that all the brushes are replaceable and operates best on 7.2V with a no load RPM of 27500rpm  O0 so ill be having some fun with that one i think

Have fun guys
Steamboatbob
Logged

steamboatbob

  • Guest
Re: OH NO Another Slo-Mo
« Reply #74 on: May 25, 2009, 03:01:36 PM »

Hi Guys

just a little notice as to what has been done over the weekend on the boat

the bottom of the boat was sanded flat undercoated sanded flat with an orbital sander. after this i resprayed with the undercoat and left it to dry for a few hours, after this was done i have sprayed the bottom silver (2 coats) and left it to cure for the week

here is what she looked like a few hours ago




now to the fun part of the weekend as i previously said i have got a new motor a superstock rz motor by tamiya so i decided to run it in now this is an easy process and i will go through what i did

this is what i used to do it

 

now all i did was put some very light nonconducting oil in the jar, i used INOX as it is a very light and electrically inert stuff, you can use distilled water but do not grab water straight out of the tap i made up the 3V sub c cell pack from an old one lying around, the principal is not to use a high voltage and no load whatsoever on the motor.
then drop the motor into the oil making sure the brushes are well covered and run the motor on 3 V till the batteries die this should be enough to bed in the brushes nicely and stop all that nasty arcing, you might have to change the water(or oil) once or twice during this process as you will see how black the water really gets and quickly.

I must pass an honorable mention to my father in law "sunshine" who has helped me a lot in the electrical department of this build  :-))
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5   Go Up