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[RipSlider]

Hello all.

Somewhere between setting up my nice new pillar drill, and bolting it down to the bench, it has become very noisy, and issues a knocking, rattling sort of sound.

If I gently touch the chuck - it's only spinning slowly, then the noise goes. This seems to suggest that the knocking is coming from the drive spindle.

However, the belt drive did seem a little loose, but tightening it has made the knocking worse.

My concern is that when I fitted the chuck - and it's a push onto a taper sort of attachment - it took a couple of good smacks with a wooden mallet to get it on tight. Using the drill immediately afterwards it was fine, but now it's got worse.

Has anyone encountered similar, and if so, did you find a cure? Should I just pack it out with grease?

Many thanks indeed.

Steve

[sheerline]

RIP, chuck it back at the shop, it shouldn't do that and the bearing may have gone u/s by the sound of it but just check the pulley wheel hasn't come loose on the drive spindle first.

[FullLeatherJacket]

Steve
I got one from Machine Mart that sounds very much like yours. I just turn up the radio............
Works for me 
FLJ

[RipSlider]

OK - thanks for the replies so far.

Having had a "take it to bits" session last night, these are my findings.

the loudness and fierceness on the ear of the knocking is directly linked to the speed and the tightness of the belt. At the slowest speed - 600rpm - the knocking is annoying but- for now until the wee kiddie gets here at least - dealable with for short periods. at the top speed - 2500 rpm, it sounds like it wants to tear itself apart.

The knocking is also worse when the belt is tight. If I slacken it off almost completely, so it almost flops about, again the knocking reduces.


removing the bel suggests that the knocking is coming from the shaft that holds the chuck, as it is virtually silent just running on the motor. removing the "drill shaft"'s pulley block and hand turning it with just the belt on shows the knocking is still there.

I *think* that the knocking comes from the sealed area - the bit which on a bike I would call th head stock - between the place where the pulley block sticks out at the top, and where drill chuck sticks out of the bottom. - sorry for deeply un-technical wordings.

There does seem to be a lack of grease in this area. On the flip side, the hole that says "insert grease here" is down about 30mm down the middle of the shaft and the hole to force the grease in is tiny - perhap 1.5mm, so I have no idea how to get the grease into it anyway, as I lack a greasegun.

Does this help diagnosis?

Thanks again

Steve

[Captain Povey]

Hi All, For what its worth I think hitting the chuck up into the taper has damaged (I think the term is brinelled, as in brinell hardness test where a ball is pressed into the material and the depth of the impression measured) the bearings. With Morse tapers, provided the two mating parts are clean usually pressing them in is adequate as I think the whole point of the Morse taper is that the angle gives some degree of 'wedging'. Graham.

[bogstandard]

Take it back from whence it came, and tell the saleman to bend over. If you insert it right, you will soon be the proud owner of a de-knockered one.

Things like that only get worse, not better.

Don't play with it, get rid of it, before it becomes too mangled to take back.

John

[Bee]

The pulley tends to be a loose fit on the shaft causing vibration. The shaft is likely to be a good fit in its bearings unless damaged. However the bearings are held in a sleeve whcih is normally a loose fit in the headstock in these machines. Unlike old machines there is no provision for adjustment of this fit so it rattles. The only think to help it is the rack cut in the back of the sleeve and the pinion on the feed handle.
See how the rattle changes with position of the handle and holding the sleeve.

[tigertiger]

Hi Ripslider

Have you tried removing and then re fiting the chuck?

[Colin H]

What ever you do if you take it back do NOT admit to whacking the chuck into place, with a Morse taper a firm push with the hand is usually all that is needed.

Colin H