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[Concorde002]

Hi everyone,
I am about to start planking the hull and the Billings instructions are extremely sparse on detail. What glue should I be using for this part please?
Thanks,
Tim

[Capt Podge]

Hi Tim, some modellers use superglue, some use pins /clamps /superglue. Others use external grade wood glue.
My preference is aliphatic wood glue.
Whichever you use, plank on each side in turn - say 3 planks to Port then 3 to Stbd and so on - this helps to avoid building a twist in the hull.


Also, have a read through some of the Master Class build logs - you'll find loads of useful information there. 


Ray.

[Concorde002]

Thank you Ray. I am going to use Aliphatic wood glue based upon your advice. Now to work out how (and how long) to steam the ply for before pre-fixing! 

[Capt Podge]

Hiya Tim, I've only got a little experience with the 'steaming' having used it for the deck planking on my Fairey Huntsman 31.
I used very hot water in an old metal coffee pot, with a few planks standing upright for about 20 minutes. These were then given a quick wipe off with kitchen roll then pinned in place and left to dry. Removed the pins and finally glued planks in position.
Some of the bends were quite tight so the pins were used again until the glue had set.


The wood, in this instance, was lime strip.


Hope this helps you a little...


Aye,
Ray.

[Concorde002]

Hi Ray,
Brilliant advice. I'm thinking of trying a large saucepan on the hob with the ply suspended over to steam. I had no idea how long so will take your advice on 20 minutes but watch carefully.
Thanks again,
Tim

[Capt Podge]

Hmm, not so sure about steaming or soaking ply wood Tim - there'll be a tendency for it to delaminate. Didn't realise what kind of wood you were using.


I'll come back again after a bit of searching around...


Ray.

[Capt Podge]

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57267.msg595952.html#msg595952


This might help you 


Ray.

[Taranis]

Second thoughts deleted

[Taranis]

Ditto

[Concorde002]

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57267.msg595952.html#msg595952


This might help you 


Ray.

Thanks again Ray. Most helpful and appreciated.

[Concorde002]

Ditto

Thanks for the advice and heads up on the incorrect detail Andy.


Spent a day over my dad's house as it is his project to try and keep him busy but I think I am going to have to get involved.


Spent the day with him studying your photo sequence of your build which was really helpful. He already says he doesn't want to bother with a bow thruster so I am assuming it is easy to just plank over.


Thanks again - long day but very helpful. 


Tim

[Taranis]

Thought I was being blanked, If I can help in any way moving forwards I'm happy to try and help. A working bow thruster is not really essential and its impossible to fit where it would be on the plan. I hope he enjoys the build. I personally did use Aliphatic resin glue by Deluxe Materials. As I gained more experience on later builds I also used superglue but this in quantity can cause skin complaints on the face. I would aim for steady away with one plank per side per day.

[Taranis]

This picture from my Hoga build shows how I place more emphasis on clamping subsequent planks parallel so they're not weaving in and out. The sanding of such if not clamped leaves some so thin that they're not structurally viable.
If each previous plank is cut back to accept the next there is very little stress placed on the wood and I didn't do any steaming at all



Hopefully you can see the line here to cut back to having laid the next plank without stress on the hull and marked the edge

[Taranis]

If you choose to use lightweight glass cloth and finishing resin then a strong waterproof hull can be achieved



I decided not to paint this one as I managed a hull free of filler

[Concorde002]

This picture from my Hoga build shows how I place more emphasis on clamping subsequent planks parallel so they're not weaving in and out. The sanding of such if not clamped leaves some so thin that they're not structurally viable.
If each previous plank is cut back to accept the next there is very little stress placed on the wood and I didn't do any steaming at all



Hopefully you can see the line here to cut back to having laid the next plank without stress on the hull and marked the edge

Hi Andy,
Apologies if you felt that. Never my intention but I wanted to look through your links with dad before replying so sorry for that.
Again great advice and pictures and the natural finish looks fantastic.
We are definitely going to resin the hull but at the moment we spent a long time yesterday wrestling with the 2nr oval ply pieces each side of the keel. Tried to dry fit but didn't have suitable clamps to get the curves. I think I need the long clamps which I think are called Irwin. So plan is get some clamps and pins and next time steam the panel and clamp in place. Allow to dry and then glue in place.
I'm from an RC aircraft background so a lot of terminology I may get incorrect.
Thanks again for your offer of advice/help. A great reassurance as you have already built this.
I will always reply but unfortunately I am not retired like dad so bear with me.
Thanks,
Tim

[JimG]

You can buy or make special clamps for planking hulls. These clamp onto the formers and hold the planks.https://www.hobbies.co.uk/model-ship-hull-planking-clamps-set-of-6-mx104?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaignid=18203540303&utm_campaign=&utm_term=&adid=&addisttype=xpla&matchtype=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyOuYBhCGARIsAIdGQRPBIJ_rUXAHv8D3pzJOE5Y4Z5WOQHEIedAhgYOHGmLX1O3GI04rlrEaAgtOEALw_wcB
An article in Mayhem describing how to make clamps that screw into the formers to hold the planks but don't mark them as you don't need to use pins through the plank.
Jim

[Concorde002]

You can buy or make special clamps for planking hulls. These clamp onto the formers and hold the planks.https://www.hobbies.co.uk/model-ship-hull-planking-clamps-set-of-6-mx104?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaignid=18203540303&utm_campaign=&utm_term=&adid=&addisttype=xpla&matchtype=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyOuYBhCGARIsAIdGQRPBIJ_rUXAHv8D3pzJOE5Y4Z5WOQHEIedAhgYOHGmLX1O3GI04rlrEaAgtOEALw_wcB
An article in Mayhem describing how to make clamps that screw into the formers to hold the planks but don't mark them as you don't need to use pins through the plank.
Jim

Thanks Jim, these look just the job. Will order some over the weekend
Thanks,
Tim

[Mark T]

I have to agree with the above comments - aliphatic resin is the way forward in my opinion.  I have used this glue exclusively and its just great as it holds solidly and cleans up easily too.  However it doesn't grab and harden as fast as cyano but its up to the builder to decide how fast that they want to build.

[Concorde002]

I have to agree with the above comments - aliphatic resin is the way forward in my opinion.  I have used this glue exclusively and its just great as it holds solidly and cleans up easily too.  However it doesn't grab and harden as fast as cyano but its up to the builder to decide how fast that they want to build.

Definitely using aliphatic. Thanks Mark