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Author Topic: Billings plastic portholes  (Read 3865 times)

dreadnought72

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Billings plastic portholes
« on: January 27, 2009, 08:18:14 PM »

Hi!

Does anyone know offhand if the plastic (?) Billings portholes (6mm dia) are glazed or not, and if not, what's the best method to glaze <gulp> 150 of them?

Thanks!

Andy
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2009, 08:26:39 PM »

If they are not glazed then you can punch out the "glass" using a leather punch or a punch tool set depending on the diameter. use Humbrol Clearfix or a similar "canopy glue" to fix the glazing in place. http://www.airfix.com/humbrol-paints-and-accessories/accessories/application-products/ac5707-28ml-clearfix-bottle-28ml-application-products/

Colin
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chingdevil

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2009, 09:19:33 PM »

How about Deluxe Materials Glue'N'Glaze, it says you can fill in a 6mm hole and when it is dry it is clear, url:- http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk and look under the specialist products.

Brian
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Proteus

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2009, 09:44:26 PM »

or deluxe materials clear water that works so does clear acrylic put a bit of tape over bottom take it off after 24hours and polish the back with 2000 wet dry and soap ends clear


Proteus
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dreadnought72

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2009, 10:08:00 AM »

Thanks for some spiffing replies! I'll probably go for a clear resin option.

...and get my drill on charge.

Andy
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Proteus

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2009, 10:15:39 AM »

another way and what I do on brass portholes as the Glass that comes with them is not very watertight is to buy a length of acrylic and cut the lenses about 4mm thick with a razor saw as it does not heat them up and have a few different grades of wet and dry its supprising how quick they polish and remove your fingerprints  up just Finnish with a soft cloth they look a lot better epically if you are going to light the hull leave them a bit longer so they catch the light, they look a lot more realistic .

Proteus,
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Bunkerbarge

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2009, 11:18:44 AM »

The plastic Billings port holes used to come with a plastic glaze included.  I have a few spare packets in my bit box.
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TCC

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #7 on: January 28, 2009, 11:22:28 AM »

another way and what I do on brass portholes as the Glass that comes with them is not very watertight is to buy a length of acrylic and cut the lenses about 4mm thick with a razor saw as it does not heat them up and have a few different grades of wet and dry its supprising how quick they polish and remove your fingerprints  up just Finnish with a soft cloth they look a lot better epically if you are going to light the hull leave them a bit longer so they catch the light, they look a lot more realistic .

Proteus,
If I was to polish the ends of rods, I'd find a chuck (off a dril) they'd fit into and point the drill at the various grades of emery paper. And if you had a drill stand, you'd be polishing them square.

150? Pah...  warship boys are wimps... the liner guys have to x that by 10 and do they grumble? ok2
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Proteus

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2009, 11:49:44 AM »

another way and what I do on brass portholes as the Glass that comes with them is not very watertight is to buy a length of acrylic and cut the lenses about 4mm thick with a razor saw as it does not heat them up and have a few different grades of wet and dry its supprising how quick they polish and remove your fingerprints  up just Finnish with a soft cloth they look a lot better epically if you are going to light the hull leave them a bit longer so they catch the light, they look a lot more realistic .

Proteus,
If I was to polish the ends of rods, I'd find a chuck (off a dril) they'd fit into and point the drill at the various grades of emery paper. And if you had a drill stand, you'd be polishing them square.

150? Pah...  warship boys are wimps... the liner guys have to x that by 10 and do they grumble? ok2

I take it you have not polished acrylic then , try it first then come back and tell us how you got on ,, I'm talking from experience  >>:-(

Proteus

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TCC

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2009, 10:35:55 AM »

another way and what I do on brass portholes as the Glass that comes with them is not very watertight is to buy a length of acrylic and cut the lenses about 4mm thick with a razor saw as it does not heat them up and have a few different grades of wet and dry its supprising how quick they polish and remove your fingerprints  up just Finnish with a soft cloth they look a lot better epically if you are going to light the hull leave them a bit longer so they catch the light, they look a lot more realistic .

Proteus,
If I was to polish the ends of rods, I'd find a chuck (off a dril) they'd fit into and point the drill at the various grades of emery paper. And if you had a drill stand, you'd be polishing them square.

150? Pah...  warship boys are wimps... the liner guys have to x that by 10 and do they grumble? ok2

I take it you have not polished acrylic then , try it first then come back and tell us how you got on ,, I'm talking from experience  >>:-(

Proteus



Well why don't you share your experience and explain why the above wouldn't work rather than just saying it won't.
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Proteus

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Re: Billings plastic portholes
« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2009, 11:02:43 AM »

another way and what I do on brass portholes as the Glass that comes with them is not very watertight is to buy a length of acrylic and cut the lenses about 4mm thick with a razor saw as it does not heat them up and have a few different grades of wet and dry its supprising how quick they polish and remove your fingerprint's up just Finnish with a soft cloth they look a lot better epically if you are going to light the hull leave them a bit longer so they catch the light, they look a lot more realistic .

Proteus,
If I was to polish the ends of rods, I'd find a chuck (off a dril) they'd fit into and point the drill at the various grades of emery paper. And if you had a drill stand, you'd be polishing them square.

150? Pah...  warship boys are wimps... the liner guys have to x that by 10 and do they grumble? ok2

First  off you came up with the idea of using a drill asked if you had done it that way , I would of thought that before you suggesting something that you may have tried it first as you thought my idea was to slow

the reason is acrylic heats up very easy and goes milky which Carnot be removed, ( also the reason  as  I stated to cut with razor saw ) it also takes very little to do them by hand,, again have you tried doing them in a drill.
over to the expert

Proteus
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