Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Fitting A fuse and a switch  (Read 2009 times)

Chris

  • Guest
Fitting A fuse and a switch
« on: October 24, 2008, 05:44:56 PM »

Hi Guys (And any girls who may be on here!), I knew it wouldn't be long before I found another question to ask!

On the Robbe Antje 11 I'm using the Robbe recommended motor with a Ripmax P-Extra-BS10 BEC ESC and a 6v Powertech battery. Now the question is should I fit a switch and fuse to my circuit. If so what fuse and switch should I use and where is the best place to buy them.
Logged

boatmadman

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,721
  • Location: South Cumbria
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2008, 06:26:24 PM »

Hi,

Yes to both. A switch should be fitted between the battery and esc, onn the positive lead. A fuse should be fitted between battery and esc as well, again on the positive lead. The size of fuse should be the same as the maximum continual load capacity of the esc. I couldnt find your esc, but it sounds like its 1-a from the description you give. Check with the supplier to confirm this.

Try Action electronics for supply, they are listed on the traders section.

Ian
Logged
if at first you dont succeed.....have a beer.....

Peterm

  • Inactive
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 419
  • Location: Southam,Warwickshire
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2008, 06:41:57 PM »

I agree with the positioning, but to be on the safe side I use a fuse whose value is about threequarters that of the ESC rating.   Pete M
Logged
I`m not just old, I`m ancient

Chris

  • Guest
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2008, 09:49:18 AM »

Thanks for the info chaps.

Cheers, Chris
Logged

Chris

  • Guest
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #4 on: October 25, 2008, 10:18:42 AM »

This link shows the ESC that I have, any further advice on fuse rating would be of great help thanks.

http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=P-XTRA-BS10&selectedtab=060&Category=060

Cheers, Chris

Logged

Peterm

  • Inactive
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 419
  • Location: Southam,Warwickshire
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2008, 10:33:42 AM »

I think at those ratings, a 10 amp fuse would be appropriate.   Pete M
Logged
I`m not just old, I`m ancient

norry

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 820
  • ...Get Your Tugs Out For The Bouys...
  • Location: Paisley Scotland
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #6 on: October 25, 2008, 10:42:00 AM »

          ...Hi Guys...

I use the spade car type fuse holders from Halfords...They cost about a pound each...

If you fit the fuse somewhere inside the hatch that is easy accessable then you dont need to fit a switch as well...

All i do when i want to use the boat is lift off the top, place the fuse into the fuseholder & this then powers up the boat...

When your finished your sail, lift off the top & pull the fuse...The boat is now dead...No need for a switch...

...On my larger tugs I have a 4 or 6 fuse holder unit & do this with all circuits in the bioat...I have found that on long trips to competitions, All batteries are charged up the day before & You dont have any battery drain because the circuits are dead untill sailing time...

...Best Regards...Norry...
Logged
...Get Your Tugs Out For The Buoys...

wombat

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 642
  • The view from the shallow end of the gene pool
Re: Fitting A fuse and a switch
« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2008, 10:11:48 PM »

I would argue with Norry's advice.....

Fuses and fuseholders are not designed for repeated insertion and removal; they will wear quickly and you will get dodgy connections and the risk of the boat being stranded. Use a proper switch.

Here is my favourite switch:

http://uk.farnell.com/arcolectric-switches/c1350ataab/rocker-switch-dpst-black-i-o/dp/242822

My view on the matter - always fit a switch - I prefer a double pole switch so both positive and negative are switched. If you are only use a single fuse, put it just after the switch and rate it at the lowest value that will cope with the maximum continuos current draw (i.e. running at full throttle with typical anciliaries running).

If you have dual motors or run in a weedy lake then fuse the motor after the output of the ESC - rate it at the full load current of the motor or 2/3 the ESC rating whichever is least. This should stop you taking out the ESC in the event of the motor being stalled or jammed.

Wom
Logged
The prat in the hat - www.floatingwombat.me.uk - Have look & say Hi
Pages: [1]   Go Up