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Author Topic: Window Frames  (Read 12004 times)

Garabaldy

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Window Frames
« on: October 28, 2008, 08:30:06 AM »

my plan shows window frames on my wheelehouse.  They are about 2-3mm wide and swtick out about the same.  The corners of the windows are radiused at around 5-8mm depending on which window.  Any advise on making the frames?  I was trying to cut plasticard strips last night but not with much success.  Any ideas?
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gribeauval

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2008, 08:56:25 AM »

Cut the frame from plasticard sheet rather than trying to make it from strip, build up the thicknes from thin sheet it's easier to cut.  ;)

This is how I build up window frames for my lifeboats.

1: Bottom frame marked out on plasticard.
2: Top frame marked out on plasticard.
3: Bottom frame cut out/sanded to size.
4: Top frame, centre removed and glued onto clear styrene glazing ( CD case!).
5: Top frame/glazing cut to final outside shape/size.
6: Top frame glued onto bottom frame, painted and ready to fit.

 Mike  8)
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FullLeatherJacket

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2008, 09:02:20 AM »

Not quite the same, but this works for me. Maybe a combination of mine and Mike's will work?

FLJ
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Richie

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2008, 09:41:58 AM »

Sorry to jump in on this thread.  %)
Mike, in your Helen Wycherley build you show bolt head detail on your window frames. Can you explain how you do that?

Cheers
Richie
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Garabaldy

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2008, 10:15:15 AM »

Thanks guys. very good tips.  I too would love to see how you add the bolt details :-)

Cheers

G
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2008, 01:12:25 PM »

And me  :-)
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Seaspray

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2008, 01:21:50 PM »

Mike, best explanation on how to do a job and Martin too.  :-))

Silly question time.

What do you use to cut the thick plasticard so cleanly, especially the turns/corners.


Seaspray
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Guy Bagley

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2008, 02:46:39 PM »

you can buy specialist ' plastic shears' like precision  flush cutters  specially designed for  plastics/ nylons and the production industry...,

i 'll try and find the firm who suplies ours- they re great for chopping at plasticard and similar.....

 as for windows you could always make one and then cast into silicon  and then  use resin castings  if they're all the same size....
macs mouldings also supplies a whole load of windows in resin too...

 to add the bolt head detail you could use cyano gel adhesive with a fine point applicator , put a tiny dot of adhesive on and the use activator to fast cure it then paint !
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Garabaldy

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2008, 03:13:54 PM »

something which just occured to me now.  For cutting clean radiused corners in windows you can always use a suitable sized pize of metal tub and use it as a punch.  I thought about using waterproof pva for the bolt heads but i cant think of a neat way of applying it.
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gribeauval

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2008, 03:14:59 PM »

Mike, best explanation on how to do a job and Martin too.  :-))
Silly question time.
What do you use to cut the thick plasticard so cleanly, especially the turns/corners.
Seaspray

I drill holes in the corners, cut to just oversize with a scalpel and steel straight edge and then sand down to size, for internal corners I use dowel covered in sandpaper, PLUS a lot of critical rejection of sub standard items!


Sorry to jump in on this thread.  %)
Mike, in your Helen Wycherley build you show bolt head detail on your window frames. Can you explain how you do that?
Cheers
Richie

I use the scrap parts from sheets used by card crafters to add silver borders to their creations. When the self adhesive border is taken off the backing to be used on a card there is often left tiny circles of self adhesive silvered material left behind. I use these as small bolt heads, place in position, gently press then a light wash of liquid poly/ plastic weld. They can either be left bright as stainless steel bolt heads or painted to match the superstructure. First picture shows a typical sheet of borders, second pcture shows the 'scrap' left after borders removed to be used. These sheets cost about 45p in my local craft shop and there are many different styles with different sized rounds so any size rivet/bolt head can be simulated. Best thing is that the size is consistent and only need a fine pin/scalpel tip to position them, if you get it wrong then lift them off and re-position! ;)

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Colin Bishop

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #10 on: October 28, 2008, 03:16:40 PM »

True Genius Mike!
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gribeauval

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2008, 03:18:31 PM »

True Genius Mike!


Just an ability to look at life sideways Colin!! 8)
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Richie

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2008, 04:15:38 PM »

Mike, thanks for that passing on that tip, simple but very effective.
Will certainly try it on my models.

Cheers,  Richie
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Seaspray

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #13 on: October 28, 2008, 05:11:15 PM »

Thanks,  Mike  :-))


Seaspray

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longshanks

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #14 on: October 28, 2008, 10:20:28 PM »

Some great ideas there guys  :-))

What adhesive do you use to glue styrene to acetate / acrylic sheet, I understand you can get fogging with some glues ?

Cheers
longshanks
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nhp651

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2008, 10:57:08 PM »

i use a very thin, clear double sided sticky tape, 2mm wide to glue clear plastic to window frames, and then window frame to superstructure.....no hint of glue or fogging. you can buy it in different widths from arty craft shops. :-))
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FullLeatherJacket

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2008, 11:01:30 PM »

"RC Modellers Craft Glue" or "Weldbond". Both are PVA-like initially but dry quite clear and flexible.
FLJ
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2008, 11:14:57 PM »


Superglue "odorless" also works well.
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barriew

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #18 on: October 29, 2008, 09:39:16 AM »

Its not only when you use Superglue to glue the glazing that you can get fogging. If you use it elsewhere, inside a cabin/wheelhouse for example, then you can get fogging.
Just found out (again <:( ) when sticking down the wheelhouse on Lulonga. I did however manage to remove most of it with meths on a cotton bud.

Barrie
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Garabaldy

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #19 on: October 29, 2008, 10:25:39 AM »

That happend to me on my last build....

I made up 2 window frames last night.  They seem ok.  I will post pictures up soon on.

Thanks again!

G
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Seaspray

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2008, 10:36:16 AM »

Don't suppose a little spot of contact adhesive here and there would do ? I do like the tape idea.

Seaspray
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #21 on: October 29, 2008, 10:40:50 AM »

Its not only when you use Superglue to glue the glazing that you can get fogging.
If you use it elsewhere, inside a cabin/wheelhouse for example, then you can get fogging.
Barrie

Superglue "odorless"
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Seaspray

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2008, 10:48:41 AM »

Is this what you mean Martin

Grade: Medium
Viscosity: 100cps
Curing Speed: 15 seconds
Type: Alkoxy-Alkyl Cyanoacrylate
Excellent gap filling capabilities. None whitening or blooming occurred on electrical component. Also safe on white foam & plastic.
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2008, 02:39:32 PM »

Yes that's the stuff.
I think it's also good on polystyrene as it doesn't melt it.
Personally, I prefer Zap.

http://www.zapglue.com/New%20Pages/Zap%20Odorless%20CA.html


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barriew

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Re: Window Frames
« Reply #24 on: October 29, 2008, 04:27:30 PM »

Its not only when you use Superglue to glue the glazing that you can get fogging.
If you use it elsewhere, inside a cabin/wheelhouse for example, then you can get fogging.
Barrie

Superglue "odorless"


Yes I know Martin, the point I was trying to make was that if you use ordinary superglue anywhere in a closed space on your model that has clear windows, you run the risk of fogging. Done it twice now - once on a canopy over a deck opening, once sticking the wheelhouse down to the deck %)

Maybe I'll remember next time :-))

Barrie
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