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Author Topic: Silver Solder  (Read 1654 times)

sinjon

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Silver Solder
« on: November 22, 2008, 10:12:37 AM »

Hello

I need to make up a pair of  little 'A' frames. I think that perhaps I should be using silver solder rather than standard solder.
Problem is I have no idea where to start, what heat source, flux, silver solder itself, where to get it from, Do's & dont's.
I would appreciate any advice.

Colin
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Colin

BarryM

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2008, 10:23:42 AM »

Colin,
Try 'brazing' in the search box.

Barry M
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wideawake

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2008, 10:32:42 AM »

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sinjon

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2008, 11:34:16 AM »

Thanks Barry & Guy - a good start, and I see that Squires do flux and silver solder. On my way!

Colin
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Colin

Shipmate60

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2008, 11:39:08 AM »

sinjon
I usually soft solder all mine, not had a problem with it yet as long as it is soldered with enough heat and clean.
I am a bit unsure about distortion of the outer shaft and bearing so don't silver solder.

Bob
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boatmadman

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2008, 11:40:50 AM »

A tip that may or may not be on that site, place some fire bricks around your workpiece, it retains the heat better and makes the job easier. make sure you use fire bricks though, not ordinary bricks.

I have silver solderd a frames with no problem, just make sure they are clamped well and in alignment before you solder

Ian
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Proteus

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2008, 12:32:12 PM »


Also look at this site they do a lot of the model eng shows so will deal with small amounts they are also very helpfull and have silver solder of lower and higher temps than normal enabling you to do step soldering. and they have the correct fluxes


http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/

Proteus
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Bunkerbarge

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2008, 01:18:16 PM »

I am sure that for external 'A' frames soft solder would be strong enough.  I agree that silver solder is stronger but you only really need it where higher temperatures are a concern and solf solder may fail, such as in steam installations, boilers etc.

If you are goping to silver solder then I would strongly recommend coated rods, no messing about with something else to think about and they are so easy and convenient.

The most important thing with any soldering is that the job must melt the rod not the flame.  If you melt the rod with the flame it will never float on the job it will simply form a blob and sit on the surface.  Clean the joint with wet and dry, clamp the joint carefully, paying particular attention to where the heat is going to flow away through the clamps.  Fire bricks are a must to keep the heat in the job and you will need something of the size of the hand held gas bottle powered jobs available from hardware stores for a heat source.

Once the job is hot touch the flux to it and it will clean the area and flow into the joint then, when the job is hot enough, round about just turning cherry red, touch the end of the rod to the job and the rod should melt and flow into it all in one go.

If you have never done this before practise as many times as you need before you are comfortable with it.  If you pay attentiion to these basics it is actually very easy but miss out one of them and it just won't happen.
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Proteus

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Re: Silver Solder
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2008, 01:38:30 PM »


Also look at this site they do a lot of the model eng shows so will deal with small amounts they are also very helpfull and have silver solder of lower and higher temps than normal enabling you to do step soldering. and they have the correct fluxes


http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/

Proteus


If you look on this site there are some tips as well that will go with Bunkerbarge's notes and some drawrings as well
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