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Author Topic: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise  (Read 45913 times)

tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #125 on: January 26, 2010, 04:40:18 PM »

The placement of the bulwark planks is not as important as the hull planks. They will not affect hydrodynamics. But they still need to look right.

With the transom extention in place, it was now possible to run a bulwark plank fore to aft.

Those stanchions that were spot on, or close, were left in place. Those that were obviously out were knocked off to be refitted.
The last three stanchions at the stern (where they move through the vertical) could now also be fitted.

The stanchions that needed to be adjusted were glued with epoxy and a filler (sawdust - no microbaloons) to pad them out and fix the position.
When all set. I went around the hull drizzling some epoxy to firmly fix every stanchion.

N.B. the bulwark plank is not glued. It is just clipped in place to act as a guide to glue the stanchions.
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Jimmy James

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #126 on: January 26, 2010, 08:17:46 PM »

TT
She's comming on nicely..Keep it up
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #127 on: February 02, 2010, 10:51:39 AM »

Next Job is the gutters.

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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #128 on: February 02, 2010, 11:00:05 AM »

Next step
Rudders. This was a deliberate simple method of fitting the rudder.

I only have very thin brass. And so I used aluminium. Hopefully there will not be materials conflict or electolysis between the brass rudder tube and aluminium.

Can somebody advise?

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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #129 on: February 02, 2010, 11:16:48 AM »

My next step will be to get her out on the water.

Firstly, to check for leaks.
Secondly, test ballast.
Thirdly, to find the centre of lateral resistance (CLR). See reply 14.

This needs to be done before the deckbeams are fitted really.

Before this can happen she needed to have her bottom painted.
I am using a domestic primer. A 1cm brush was used for this. That way any brush marks will at least be in scale.
I will spray over with the final colour and expect/want brush marks to show.

I cannot find rattle cans of primer, except Tamiya etc. (6 a small can). The paint I used is called an Enamel Primer, Undercoat and Sealer. It is 100% acrylic. It was the only primer I could find in a small tin (1 pt), and cost equivalent of 10. Paint is expensive.
I have done a compatibility test with the rattle cans of colour I will be using. No conflict when topcoating with either of the Chinese brands of spray. And no conflict with Tamiya tins either. However, the Tamiya paint blistered when sprayed over the Chinese brand rattle cans. And so I will not be using Tamiya paints on this one.

The rudder will also need to be fitted to check the CLR.
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SteamboatPhil

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #130 on: February 02, 2010, 12:19:55 PM »

Really coming along now Mark  (a little plant food and the you should be able to grow the short stancion)   {-) {-)
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #131 on: February 02, 2010, 12:34:06 PM »

Cheers Phil  :-)
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Jimmy James

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #132 on: February 03, 2010, 10:11:26 PM »

Looking really good Mark :-))
  I use Acrylic Artists paints (In tube's) for my period model ships... I find it gives a good textured finish that I have been told looks realistic.... the number of colours is massave, its easy to blend or mix and a coat or two of satin or mat varnish makes it watertight
Freebooter :-))
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #133 on: February 12, 2010, 05:08:14 PM »

Quick job.

I need to modify/make a building stand.

Before there was a sort of a keel clamp, but now things are getting painted, including the keel, I need to make a stand/cradle for it.
I just used scrap ply and some exercise mat (green), glued on with epoxy, to prevent scratches.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #134 on: February 12, 2010, 05:40:58 PM »

Now she has got some paint on her I decided to do a float test.


The original plan says to use about 4kg of ballast in the keel. In the picture here she has about 7.5 kg and she is still at least an inch above the waterline.

Also checked how effective the rudder was. Rudder effective

She leaks. It is seeping in around the buttocks area  {:-{. I am guessing this is down to the fact that the primer is not waterproof. I have since geven her another coat of Epoxy on the inside, and with a coat of topcoat paint on the outside this should do it. After painting I will have to do another float check.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #135 on: February 12, 2010, 06:17:53 PM »

There was also a problem with the Centre of Lateral Resistance (CLR), it was much further back than anticipated.
There was a madness in the logic, to guestimate the CLR from the sail plan, see reply #15.
The flawed logic, that a ballanced boat would have the CLR roughly in line with the centre of effort (COE) of sails. It was later pointed out that the CLR needs to be behind the COE to give weather helm. I did not expect it to be so far behind.

There are a number of options for fixing this.
Option 1 is favourite at the moment, but option 5 is also considered.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #136 on: February 12, 2010, 07:00:12 PM »

Next job painting the hull.

I wanted to give a first coat of paint to go out and do the float test again and before I do the deck.

I first needed to create a paint shop area. This was indoors. It is subzero temperatures outside again, and windy.
I used some cheap plastic sheeting. It is not really a tarp as it is not waterproof. I strung this up against the walls, using the external (to the wall) water pipes.
And I also used some odds of ply on the floor as a base.
My trusty old microwave turntable was used again to rotate the object being painted.

The hull was given a good wash after the float test and then given a quick once over with 600 wet and dry (used wet). This also knocked off some specks of dust that were making lumps in the paint.
Areas of the boat where there is still gluing to be done were masked. This includes the stanchions and part of the stempost.

Using a rattle can.
The hull covered well, except for one pin head size bubble that would not cover. I can only assume I have a grease spot. I will clean, sand and repaint.

I am happy with the planky effect achieved. This was one of my aims. Also the brush marks from the primer stage also remain, this was also intended.
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dave301bounty

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #137 on: February 12, 2010, 08:16:23 PM »

Hi,T Tiger.I Am watching your build ,really looks good .I Am still looking at mine ,still as was ,two frames on keel ,as you have said ,I Need to make a VERY good building jig .This kit really has a lot going for it .And for the price ,I reckon very good value .T T .. i am watching and really am impressed ,together is the other chap ,Master Mariner .Jimmy James .
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Jimmy James

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #138 on: February 14, 2010, 10:31:35 PM »

TT
 Mark one of our club members has this model sailing .... His has a fiber glass hull and it took just over 20 lbs of lead to get her into sailing trim....( she,s trimmed down by the stern) .... She sails well and tacks and wears easily ... but ... to acheave this he needed two sail servos one for the main and one for the head sails I'll try to get you some photos of her sailing so you can judge the trim
Jimmy :-))

Nice to hear from you Dave ...Hows the Build going
Jimmy
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dreadnought72

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #139 on: February 14, 2010, 11:44:45 PM »

Just read your posting from the 12th, TT.

I think your CLR is fine - that's not too far aft - and your original plan for a straight fin and ballast should be ok. You "might" need to apply a little weather helm when sailing close-hauled, but that's what the full-sizers would do.

Keep it up - I'm enjoying this build very much.

Andy
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #140 on: February 22, 2010, 01:13:02 AM »

Hi Andy

I also think the CLR is ok. ;)
My fear is that if I put the keel where originally proposed, the CLR will move too far forward. Thus causing lee helm.  And so I will have to move it back.

The mast will be fixed and little room for adjusting for lee helm here.

Ho Hum  %)
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dreadnought72

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #141 on: February 22, 2010, 11:04:03 AM »

Hi TT,

I understand your fears, but consider - with the rudder on, the CLR will move backwards. Adding the fin will move it forwards. I wouldn't, at this stage, personally worry about quite where it's going to land, now you're in the right sort of area, which I think you clearly are. Here's why: your fin is as much to carry ballast low down, in order to provide a greater righting moment, as it is to increase lateral resistance, which will already be considerable from the hull form, what with its full-length keel. So IF (big if) you end up with copious helm of the weather or lee variety (and I really don't think you will) you could always decrease or increase the fin area to correct this.

Regards,

Andy
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andrewh

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #142 on: February 22, 2010, 12:50:56 PM »

Goin' well TT :}

When I make an aircraft of crazy distinctive configuration - perhaps a canard biplane ducted fan delta I don't install the CG till after the test flights .  This saves me from getting it in the wrong place

P'raps you could leave off the centre of pressure till after the first sail?

Sorry about that, I feel better now

I love your degree of plankiness - found this "Planky" pic on the Smacks and Bawleys website
http://www.betty-ck145.com/docueng/betty_ck145/betty_ck145.html

Which you might like for inspiration anyway - there are a lot of nice rig and detail pics

andrew
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dreadnought72

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #143 on: February 22, 2010, 01:15:52 PM »

Hi Andrew - good point about the CoP, and nice to hear from you.

Weather and lee helm are issues primarily when close-hauled. IF (another big if!) you find it a problem once rigged, you could always alter the CoP when close-hauled by sheeting in less or more on that big forward jib. Loads of leverage there, and - no doubt - more than enough to tweak the CoP enough even though the mast's fixed. This is, after all, not an out-and-out racer?

Andy
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #144 on: February 22, 2010, 01:59:25 PM »

Andrew
Great Website thanks.

Andy
Good point about sheeting the jib. That is probably the best way to go. Thanks.
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Jimmy James

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #145 on: February 23, 2010, 04:39:47 PM »

Two other ways to tweak weather or lee helm is
1) shift your jib up from the hounds to the top of the top mast {:-{
2) adjust your topmast fore stay and back stays to rake the mast slightly fore or aft  {:-{ :-))

Both or either of these methods will shift the sail balance forward or aft ---- the Lowestoft sailing trawlers ,Smacks and Drifters used to regularly rake their Fore top mast FWD to ease the helm or aft to get closer to the wind  :-)) O0
Freebooter
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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #146 on: March 08, 2010, 03:42:31 PM »

These are the only pictures I have saved of Marks boat.  





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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #147 on: March 08, 2010, 09:31:31 PM »

JB
Tell Mark I said  {-)that topsail still sets like Maggy's knickers %%
De Freebooter
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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #148 on: March 08, 2010, 09:51:56 PM »

Tiger
 The pictures "JM" just posted is in about a Force 4  (!! to 16 kts) the boat only has internal ballast( about 20 to 22 lbs) no external keel., She sails well , but ,because of the long straight keel can be a bit slow in stays, All said, Shes a lovely craft and is fairly steady
Jimmy
De Freebooter :-))
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #149 on: March 09, 2010, 02:23:59 AM »

Thanks for posting the pics and the comments.

Build slow at the moment as my schedule is eratic and the workshop is not at home.
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