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Author Topic: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise  (Read 45948 times)

tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2009, 01:24:03 PM »

Other prep included masking the prop tube and scoring it with sandpaper to allow the glue to bite.

I also stopped off the rudder tube by pushing it into an eraser. I had not blue tack or chewing gum. This is to stop glue getting into the end of the rudder tube, I had this on my MJW build and I could not get the rudder inner to go through.

I also wrapped some fibreglass tissue around the propshaft as packing. The tube is 8mm and the Ply core is 9mm.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2009, 01:58:47 PM »

Preparing to glue.
Firstly I cleared away everything that was not needed from the bench.

Then I covered the bench in a cheap plastic sheet. Sold here as disposable tablecloth.

After this I set up my glue pots, my measuring pots, my mixing cup, my stirers, my latex gloves, my screw driver for opening the tins.

Then I laid out everything I would need. All the parts of the keel, the FG, the rudder tube, the prop shaft, and the packing pieces for the rudder tube.
It was at this stage I realised that I needed to cut my rudder tube closer to its final length, as the weight of the excess tube would pull things apart before clamping, and would get in the way after clamping.
Rudder tube duly cut.

Next step measure and mix the glue. I am paranoid about mixing glue. I over mix it if anything, but not using the 5 minute (or even 30min) epoxy you have time.
I often read people complain that the glue didn't mix properly, like the glue mixes itself %). So I mix for at least 5 mins.

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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2009, 02:23:07 PM »

Gluing up

Taking what will be the base (one side of the keel) I coated liberally with resin. I used a cheap (20p) paint brush.

Then I laid the FG tissue on top and used the paintbrush to daub it down into the resin, and added more resin.

After this the I took pieces that would form the keel's core and coated the back with the resin, and then placed on top of the FG (using the locating screws as a guide) and pressed down.

NB. All sides of what will form the keel box need to be coated well as these will be exposed to water.


Next step was to locate the rudder tube.
This needed packing as the tube is 5mm diameter and the core of the keel is made from 9mm ply. I placed a piece of 2mm balsa (what I had) at the bottom of the slot. Dabbed in some resin, then placed in the tube, more resin and finally the last piece of 2mm packing.

After this the prop tube was located.
The prop tube is 8mm, and so only a wrapping of FG around the tube was needed.
A good helping of resin was put in the slot. the prop tube inserted and twisted around to soak up resin. Then a little more resin was poured on top for good measure.

Next a liberal application of resin to the uncoated sides of the ply and another layer of FG tissue was place on top and daubed with the brush as before.

After that, the top piece (opposite side) of the keel was painted with resin on the back, and put in place (using the locating screws) and pressed home.

Final job clamping up.
I used more of the plastic sheet to prevent the keel from gluing to the workmate and clamps. I also used scrap wood to prevent the clamps from damaging the surface of the keel.
And don't forget to remove the locating screws before the get glued in.


Final note
Some resins do not like humidity. I am not sure if this effects epoxy, but currently the humidity here has shot up to about 80% in the past week. So just to be safe I have left the airconditioning on in the workshop to reduce the humidity, and got it down to about 35% and temp of about 28*. Hopefully ideal conditions for curing.

This will be left now until Monday, three days.

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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2009, 02:38:43 PM »

Frames.
I glued the templates to the ply about a week ago now. I used a simple water glue, as long as it has plenty of time to dry it is good enough.

I cut the frames out quit quickly by using a jigsaw.
I then trimmed carefully using on of those Permagrit tools. They were highly recommended by FLJ, and so I bought a couple from expotools. They really are good and made light work of trimming the frames. This was not a job I was looking forward to, but in the end it was easy.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2009, 02:43:55 PM »

Slightly off topic.
Lucky find.

While looking for a fat soldering iron to abuse for bending planks I found the beast in the picture below.

It is used for bending PPP, I have no idea what that is, but that it has PPP on the box. I am guessing plastics or melamine.

It has a thermostatic control up to 300*C. I tried to bend a piece of 3mm plank. Easy peasey.
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herrmill

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #30 on: July 18, 2009, 09:24:26 AM »

Hey Mark,

Just came across your build which I'll be following with interest.  Its looking great so far. :-))

Isn't that new fangled plank heating device what they use here for welding PPR tubing?  I might just run out to the market tomorrow morning & get one myself.  How much did that set you back up in Zhengzhou?

Chuck
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #31 on: July 18, 2009, 10:27:45 AM »

Hi Chuck

You are probably right about the use.

It cost me about RMB120, but that was in Home Depot, I am sure trade will be less than that.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #32 on: July 20, 2009, 12:47:04 PM »

Well the glue went off, and she is as flat as a board  :-))

Just a few blobs of glue to trim off the surface, these came off easily with a chisel.

The next step was to cut back and trim the keel assembly. Remembering that this has FG in it, I decided I should take some precautions, including a mask, as the saw dust will contain glass.
Not forgetting to protect the ears from noise.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #33 on: July 20, 2009, 01:07:03 PM »

After trimming off the excess wood, and fibreglass, and resin scraps.
Time to check the stern, the prop tube undamanged, and the rudder tube cleared of the rubber (eraser) bungs.

Next check the rudder tube inner fits nicely and has good alignment and good clearance from the stern post.

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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #34 on: July 20, 2009, 01:37:10 PM »

I needed to make a rebate to take the front edge of the hull planking.

First, transfer the planking line from the plan to the keel.
Next, scribe the line with a knife to denote the edge. This will also stop over cutting when carving the rebate.
Then, cut towards the line with a chisel to carve the rebate.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #35 on: July 20, 2009, 02:26:28 PM »

With the propshaft now fixed, I attached the prop, and could rough out the lines for a redesigned rudder.
It will have a cut out for the prop and will also have a larger area. This will compensate for the area lost from the cutout and add strength to the rudder assembly.

The bottom picture shows progress so far.
The completed keel assembly (notice the keel slot), and the frames.

Slow progress.
And I spotted a problem. The finished keel is 23.5mm wide. This is too wide for the building cradle I originally constructed, and so I have had to modify it  :embarrassed:

I have also made a start on the sails. But at this stage only preshrinking the cotton cloth. I will also be doing some other things in parallel. I will record the progress on the these items offline and will introduce them at a later date. Rather than doing it in dribs and drabs.
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MCR

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #36 on: July 20, 2009, 03:25:40 PM »

I have sailed this model for over 2 years about 9 months ago I added a drop rudder made out of perspex it is invisable in the water and has transformed its sailing performance. You might like to consider it.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #37 on: July 21, 2009, 01:39:35 AM »

Hi MCR

What do you mean by a 'drop rudder'?

Do you mean a long one extending straight down, like on sailing yachts?

How far did you extend?
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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #38 on: July 21, 2009, 11:18:37 PM »

Hope this helps
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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #39 on: July 21, 2009, 11:22:40 PM »

By the way the dimensions are 9"X 3" the removable rudder is held in place by the springing action of 2 steel rods which run inside brass tubes.
Mark
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #40 on: July 22, 2009, 02:18:43 AM »

Thx  :-))
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andrewh

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #41 on: July 22, 2009, 12:48:55 PM »

TT,

I have been too busy to dive in and say thanks for the build - lovely detail and it is very helpful (to me at least) to hear your thinking, planning and the adaptation of available materials.

Wear the "bodgers" badge proudly :-)) and it is my belief that 'fessing up to dead ends and things that did not conform to plan are as helpful to me and aspiring builders as the sleek, successful and elegant :}

Something like LH lies in my future - and about this size; so I am in there rooting for you.
thanks for sharing

andrew
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #42 on: July 24, 2009, 01:59:32 PM »

A bit more progress.

The slots were cut into the bottom of the ribs and ribs were glued onto the keel.

Then the ribs were faired. Fairing is making the profile of the ribs fit the shape of the hull outline, i.e. the way the planks will run around the ribs.

The first two planks were pinned and tacked in place to see how it looks.

Problem
ribs 1 and 10 were not aligned. They were too high. They need to be lowered. Just cutting off the tops would not be OK for two reasons.
Firstly, the deck would be out of line.
Secondly, even if the rib had the deck rebate re-cut, the hull profile would be off.

Solution
Remove the ribs 1 and 10. File a bit more out of the slot in the rib that locates on the keel, thus lowering the rib.

Everything fitted better the second time. And the first planks were glued.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #43 on: July 24, 2009, 02:14:39 PM »

As an aside.

Bending the planks abusing the tool I mentioned in an earlier post.
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #44 on: July 24, 2009, 02:48:04 PM »

Trying to locate the second plank below the first, I could see this would not work.

Looking at the area between rib 10 (last rib) and the transom. There is a change of orientation of almost 90 degrees. The angle is shown in yellow in the figure. This would require an impossible amount of twisting.
The red lines show the area of most concern with regards to twisting. The blue lines just highlight the continuing lines of the hull.

I will sleep on this one until Monday. But I think the second plank will need to follow the buttock line of the hull. I will then infill the planks between.
The buttocks are the curves where the hull side changes to the hull bottom.
I taped on plank two to see how this would work. I am pretty sure it will.

The only other choice would be to stick a big block of foam between the transom and rib 10. This could then be sanded to shape and and then given an FG coat.
However I do not really want to go on a materials safari if I can avoid it. And I was not planning to FG the outside of the hull. I wanted to show the planking.

Any thoughts guys?
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boatmadman

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #45 on: July 24, 2009, 04:01:46 PM »

This is looking really good, great work so far. What wood are you using for the planks?

For the transition bend from frame 10 to transom - when I have come across this problem, I use half width planks, they are more forgiving to big bends.

Your suggestion of using infill (or stealer) planks will work, just alternate the stealer planks, ie fit one under the side plank, the next on top of the lower plank etc. - clear as mud?

Ian
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andrewh

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #46 on: July 24, 2009, 04:03:49 PM »

TT

I have some thoughts, and they are on the side of the angels - the geometry seems to have things in your favour, if I can explain what I am thinking

With that "knuckle at the lower corner of the transom I think you need a bit of wood running from there to the appropriate place on the next former along - a longeron which will help the planks in that challenging area have something to glue to and make the transition neatly

 - I was thinking of something like 10mm square rock-hard balsa or maybe ramin or one of the light hardwoods.  When in place sand as near as possible to the right conforming shape at both ends and faired kindly in between.

planking - the near-vertical part of the transom will take a small number of full planks - 2 or 3, and there are going to be OK, I think - not too much twist.

The planks on the "underhang" of the transom are as you say twisted, but they are also enormously tapered - so what is being twisted is tapering to maybe 1mm thick by 2 or 3mm wide at the transom.  This will make twisting easier, and the wood you are using looks as if it is good and flexible, especially if it lives (transom end down) in boiling water for half an hour and is then bound in position till it dries .

Sorry, I have used a lot of words - I'll try a picture if you think it might have merit - all that Ian said is along tha same lines as my thought
andrew
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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #47 on: July 24, 2009, 11:42:03 PM »

Tigertiger.........along the lines as Andrew has suggested.....the second plank could be in block format [the height of your actual planks] - this would not bend well so would need to be fashioned [cut, profiled & sanded] to meet the required sharp transition angle..... you would also need to cut a rebate in each hull frame to accept this .....Derek
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boatmadman

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #48 on: July 25, 2009, 08:15:12 AM »

Another alternative would be to taper plank the hull. Its more work but looks real nice if you intend to leave the hull unpainted.

This involves planing each individual plank into a taper from the centre to each end. You need to measure how many planks are needed to get around the widest point of the hull, then at each frame, measure around the frame from keel to top, divide by the total number of planks needed at the widest frame and that will tell you the width of the plank you need at each frame.

You would probably need to plane a slight angle on the edges of the planks where they glue together to get a good fit and avoid the need for filler.

This will avoid the need for any stealer planks, and will give you narrow planks at the transom which will help with the bending issue.

Ian
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tigertiger

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Re: Bodgers Class Build - Louis Heloise
« Reply #49 on: July 25, 2009, 10:06:58 AM »

Thanks Boatmadman.

I was thinking along similar lines. When I have seen it done there are also, what could be called, transitional planks. For example along the buttock line, and on larger models perhaps half way between buttock line and deck line as well. Something like a gap of 5 or 6 planks at the widest point, between these transitional planks.

But I think I would still need one of these transitional planks along the buttock line. But I am not sure.
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