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Author Topic: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman  (Read 66832 times)

FullLeatherJacket

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #50 on: January 04, 2009, 09:43:42 AM »

Why not plank it e.g. with pre-bent hard balsa? It's not difficult to obtain a gentle compound curve like that one, and the job you've done so far shows it well within your capabilities. You might need to add a couple of frames between the two cabin sides across the top, to hold the curve, but again that's not beyond you.
Check out Bluebird's build of my little Swordsman to see how he does it.
FLJ
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Ian Robins

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #51 on: January 04, 2009, 10:49:25 AM »

Hi all,
Great build. Not sure if the time is availiable to me but.

Over xmas I watched a bit of sky (told misses been busy in garage as she was at work),
They were rebuilding a landrover/Range rover thing and he cleaned the engine parts by
washing them in a dishwasher (overnight so his misses didnt see)
The parts looked as new. I would think that it would also work for other part cleaning.
Has any tried this

ro88o0
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andyn

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #52 on: January 04, 2009, 11:08:19 AM »

The best thing to use is the wifes ultrasonic jewelery cleaner, just make sure shes away somewhere.

You can put a biit of washing up fluid in there with it.

I think Bill got his radio box from countryside or millets, but they are available on fleabay and if you take that picture into a camping shop they should be able to get you one. Height is approx. 3 inches, legnth 7 inches and width is 5 inches. They are great for fitting in between rails in boats.

Best of luck with it

Andy :-))
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #53 on: January 04, 2009, 11:30:11 PM »

Thanks guys for your interest and input which as always is appreciated.
Despite seemingly unable to shed this cold (man flu according to SWMBO) I forced myself once more to the brink and ventured into the workshop to dry fit the cabin sides. These are cut from 2.5 mm ply which I got from SLEC. Unlike the 1.5 and 3mm from the same source this is of better quality being five ply and considerably stiffer. The Ďpull iní force at the front of the cabin was significant though at this stage I had not removed the cutouts for the glazing (notice I didnít call them windows!) Ė I didnít want to risk the ply cracking. I then thought that if I could induce a curve in them this potential should disappear. I have often used a heated surface to induce a curve into stringers on model aircraft and wondered if this would work over an area on this ply.  Surprisingly it does!

SWMBO kindly donated her redundant flour shaker (well it is now!) to the cause and with the help of a tea light a polished heated surface did the trick. I can now cut out the openings without fear of cracking the thin edges around the glazing.


With this stage now dry fitted itís time for fitting the bottom skins . Here they are stitched and ready to apply.


I had to take them apart and bevel the edges as with square edges one side kept slipping under the other but once done and re- wired here's the result just hope it goes on the frame work ok.


Despite this success with the heat this isnít going to work on that cabin roof so thanks for your ideas. The Cascamite idea is novel but I canít see that you would have any real control over it but thanks for your thoughts. I checked out the Bluebird build FLJ and though I may tackle it slightly differently this looks like the best possible way to resolve this without later distortion.

Thanks again chaps
Back later - Ramon

PS Thanks for the tips on cleaning but SWMBO's dishwasher wouldn't be suitable - it's me!
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red181

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #54 on: January 07, 2009, 12:07:05 AM »

Ramon the white caulking is done with white plastic strips, bought in packets from most model shops, just make sure you get them long enough so no joins ok2. I have searched for some old bags bearing the manufacturers name, but can't find any, its Green...something or other, anyway, loads of places have it. I used 1.5mm square
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Seaspray

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #55 on: January 07, 2009, 08:47:47 AM »

Evergreen Scale Models make plastic similar to above reply.

They are from Woodinville, WA but their packs are in most good model shops in the U.K. In packs of about ten. 12 inches long and itemised.

Alternatively in most model shops there is alway a big rack that I make for as they come in metre lenghts and various shapes and are colour coded. Thou I think the Evergreen are a better quality.

pmdevlin the plastic really makes the planking stand out good idea.

Seaspray
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #56 on: January 07, 2009, 09:30:38 AM »

Good Morning all,
Just surfaced feeling a thousand percent better than the last couple of days so I'm hoping to get back on the boat later.

PMD this looks really good, a lovely piece of work. If 'copying is the best form' etc. I'm sure you won't mind if I do likewise and thanks Seaspray, I am familiar with Evergreen strip though have never used it in conjunction with wood. My local shop has a good selection so no problem there.
What glue did you use PMD?

I'm still not certain what to do with the main deck, bearing in mind that this will be a I/C powered 'get me back on the water gad about' I would still like it to look good (and right) but having said that don't want to go down the highly detailed route. Looking at  pics of the more modern full size Swords' and Hunts' the decks are clearly planked with a teak like timber that has faded to it's usual pale grey colour which at low photgraphic angles can appear almost white.  I'm not convinced the pics of the Ford boats give this illusion but niether am I convinced they would have just been painted as they appear. Whatever thats a way off at the moment so a bit more reasearch is needed.

If things go right today I may get the bottom skins in place - fingers crossed

Thanks as always - Ramon

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red181

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #57 on: January 07, 2009, 04:38:47 PM »

Thanks Seaspray, it is evergreen for the white strips. The sizes are perfect pack to pack, so well worth that little bit extra. I glued the planks, and plastic, with alphitic (correct spelling?) glue, then sanding sealed 3 times with 1000 grit between coats, then same process with  Ronseal clear gloss varnish. Whilst this isnt the most accurate finish (very slippy if wet!) I wanted the contrast to the matt finish on the exterior planks, Luxurious "gym palace" in the boat!

Ramon, I did extensive research on the exterior finish, as seen on the earlier photo of the real thing, it (the planks) almost have an off white finish. I achieved the finish, and was delighted with it, but the grey caulking also turned off white, so the planking was lost, and after a long battle doing them I decided to strip it all off so the planks could be seen, and used sanding sealer to gently warm the original colour highlighting the grey caulking.

Started the screen last night, thats going to be a hard job :} 
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #58 on: January 08, 2009, 11:10:10 PM »

Hi again,
With the able assistance of SWMBO (now that could cost somthing!) I managed to get the bottom skins on last night which though taking near a whole roll of masking tape turned out to be a relatively pain free operation.For some reason the pics would not load on Picasa but tonight seems okay.


The pull in at the stem was much to tight for the tape to handle so the crude supports were made and I finally found a use for the piece of 2BA studding that has laid in a drawer for the best part of twenty years!


Clamped to a ply 'extension', itself clamped to the bench, they gave all the force neccessary to hold the parts in tight. I used standard Araldite to glue this area up on to where the keel staightens and at the aft end behind the prop shaft exit. I left the remainder of the keel dry and glued all around the chines and the bulkheads with Titebond pulling down with masking tape allowing the natural curve of the skins to find its own level on the bulkheads ie I didn't try to push these points deliberately into contact.

Today I turned it over to find that they are tighly glued to all except the front two bulkheads. These gaps will be carefully filled with epoxy to keep the natural 'flow' of the ply skin.


The hull was laid on each side and Araldite laid in the join between keel and skin then gently heated with a hot air gun. Doing this serves two purposes firstly making it thin and fluid so it runs into all the crevices and wire holes and secondly to kick activation off much quicker. This dosn't show it too well but it needs doing a bay/bays at a time so that the glue stays level until activation.


My friend Peter came round today and took the jig away to start his own build - it will be nice to see both on the water but that's a while off yet. Once this messy stage is done then the fitting out can begin.

Good luck with the windscreen PMD, How about sharing how you deal with it?

Regards - Ramon
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #59 on: January 11, 2009, 11:12:05 PM »

Hi chaps,
I finally have a hull and it's now begining to look like a boat. Nothing done today though - birthday and all that but have managed to fair the edges and give it a good sanding all over since Friday.


The next stage is to get the propshaft in then the more time consuming 'fitting out' can begin.

Unfortunately though something else that simply can't be put off any longer needs attention so it will be a week or so before work can resume but in the meantime heres how she looks now.


Back soon then
Regards - Ramon
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andyn

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #60 on: January 11, 2009, 11:40:14 PM »

Happy birthday to you...
Happy birthday to you...
Happy birthday yeah you get the idea...

Nice looking stand youve got yourself there, should be fine for starting on that so long as your back lets you, I know mine wouldn't...

Hows the cabin being held on?

Andy :-))
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Seaspray

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #61 on: January 12, 2009, 08:30:38 AM »

It is a good looking stand, I'll adopt that style next time

Seaspray
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red181

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #62 on: January 12, 2009, 09:17:53 PM »

Hi Ramon, due to the curvature of the cabin roof that the screen will sit on, its quite a complicated shape, and also the sides have an unusual shape. Ages ago I bought from Anglia Models a template that was for the aft cabin version of  a Huntsman. It was disappointing quality, just a piece of perspex with the shape rather crudely etched on, however I used it as the first version template, and have fashioned a shape out of paper. Thanks to another forum member, as he came up with the idea of using a template of the screen curvature, as from birds eye view, attach this to the roof with a couple of small nuts and bolts (2mm). THe perspex can now butt up to this, and if damaged, the bolts removed and all comes off in one piece :-)) 


You can see the nasty fitting centre section (this must go!). I will use thicker card to get the final shape, then have a go in perspex, making a couple of spares. Not yet decided how to fabricate the frame,probably out of plasticard like I did the window frames.
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craftysod

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #63 on: January 12, 2009, 09:31:33 PM »

I'm throwing my Swordsman in the bin,after seeing your fine woodwork skills  :}
Mark
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #64 on: January 12, 2009, 11:16:04 PM »

Hi all, thanks as always for your interest.
Firstly PMD what a lovely job you are making - I'm most envious of those decks.  :-)) :-)) I was giving the cabin sides and coaming some thought for when I get back on it and have more or less decided that I shall plank the main deck whether the original 'Ford' boats were or not . This will help seal the cabin/deck join and give some support to the coaming sides which after all does not have a particularly strong joint against a side swipe!

I really like the idea of using plasticard for the glazing surround too. I was going to do what I did on the original Swordsman model that I made and that was to use model railway line, set on edge with the groove between base and rail running around the cutout, the base on the outside. It was effective, gave a very scale 'satin chrome' finish and the glazing could be snapped in place on the inner groove. However with the 'silver' paints now available a very realistic  metallic finish can be put on Plasticard - have you heard of the 'Alclad 2'  paints? - so this is something I will investigate further.

Regarding the windscreen it's going to be a big piece of 'Perspex' which is going to need heating to get round those bends on the outsides without cracking. I don't know if it's still available but at one time you could get 60 thou thick (acetate) sheet from the average model shop which may be a suitable alternative. Though a moderate amount of heat will assist matters greatly this will take a cold bending to a certain degree without shattering like acrylic but even better would be if you could get an off cut of 2mm 'Makrolon' This is very strong but will cold bend with a bit of effort and is virtually shatter proof. I think the big problem with this part is going to be in the fixing but I can see quite some virtue in the method you describe for the front of the screen but the sides?

Can't believe the stand made an impression??!!! Means to an end was the thinking behind it. I remembered the last one,  just having foam strips on the 'vees' for proection gradually wore the finish off the hull. Hopefully this will prove a little better

The back should hold out Andy but the knees??? now they're something else!!!

Regards - Ramon
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andyn

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #65 on: January 12, 2009, 11:27:45 PM »

Alclad 2 are good, but in my opinion Testor Metallisers are better, you have to get them from the states though as I've only ever seen them in the Aviation Hobby shop and thats a long drive. Not for you though I think, but you may want to call ahead to make sure. Very much worth a visit, it's absolute untidyness heaven in there and youre hard pressed to find a section of wall not covered it kits and even more difficult to find a place to stand. I could live in there ok2

I think it will be best to leave the windows out actually. The engine needs to breath, and you would not believe the amount of air it takes in, gallons a minuit. That entire hole in the crab of air is mixed with the tiniest squirt of fuel, hundreds of times a second.
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Seaspray

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #66 on: January 13, 2009, 08:43:06 AM »

Ramon and  andyn 
I  had trouble with my i.c. cabin cruiser regards the engine exhaust (hindsight) Two things were wrong. Firstly i had the O.S. silencer on and a marine silencer As well. which was causing too much backpresure in the system. Also no matter what I tried i could not get the O.S. silencer to seal gas tight. Tried everything, making gaskets,using instant gasket, gluing up pressure holes in the silencer. i was about nuts with it. It would start o.k. then run like as if it was on a very rich mixture. one day a was tuning the engine and set the boat off down the loch with the cabin roof of and it went like the clappers. Straight back in to shore ripped the clear plastic windows out, cabin on and had great success. in those days i used thin clear pastic from tie boxes that had windows made of the plastic. I think I tried to order Tester from America and they said the couldn't export it. I had no problem with the top cabin window on my Huntsman but it was the one with the rear cabin. I will be using clear plasticard for the windows on the model I am building. Weather is will be a success ,we'll see.

Seaspray
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #67 on: January 13, 2009, 10:04:35 AM »

'Morning Andy and Seaspray,

I should have said but at least one piece of glazing, probably the rear on both sides, will be left out for 'breathing' and cooling airflow. The rectangular hole in the central bulkhead was cut with this in mind. Previous experience with cowling model aircraft engines has also shown that the 'outlet' area is just a important as well and ideally needs to be as large if not slightly more than the inlet.
I would hazard a guess that if the exhaust was as leaky as you imply Seaspray, then your boat would have quickly filled with exhaust fumes which would very quickly have an effect on the oxygen content!
I intend to make a silencer/collector similar to an OS and then couple that to an inline muffler under the well deck. Hopefully that won't provide too much back pressure for the HP and even more hopefully won't be too noisy!

Testor's are indeed very difficult if not impossible to obtain though I heard recently that someone was going to start importing them.
There are a few myth's about using Alclad but I have used it a fair bit in other modelling projects with total success. I'm not sure what the durability of it would be on an 'outdoor' working model but with a good coating of sealer I'm sure it would be substantial enough for the glazing frames. BTW wheres the Aviation Hobby shop?

Well - duty calls - appears we have a blocked drain - just the thing for a cold wet day see you later - Ramon
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andyn

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #68 on: January 13, 2009, 03:45:23 PM »

The Aviation Hobby Shop is just down the road from Heathrow airport. While you're at it you could also go have a look in West London Models. Some nice gear in there.

http://www.tahs.com/
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #69 on: January 13, 2009, 11:15:14 PM »

Hi Andy, That is just a little bit far to go to get a bottle of paint especially when I'm about six miles from Hannants wharehouse - now theres tempation in a box if ever there was!

Nothing done but domestic duties -  you could say I feel drained (ooooh) but the job is done thank goodness  :-)
Should be back on the boat in a week or so until then keep having fun- Ramon
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Proteus

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #70 on: February 22, 2009, 01:28:49 AM »

The boat is looking great any updates ?

Proteus
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #71 on: February 23, 2009, 10:54:48 PM »

Now that is topical!

After more time than anticipated on the dreaded domestic duties and a much more pleasurable modelling distraction (perhaps more later on that!) I finally got back onto this yesterday.

The prop shaft is now in though a bit 'close angled' for my liking - I can just get an X50 prop to clear. Any one any ideas on what prop would suit this HP61 best? When I did his before I don't remember anything more exotic than the Graupner range of props. I can't be certain but memory recalls using nothing larger than an X45 on the Merco 61 and the OPS. Am I right or would this have been too small? I intend to kick off with an X50 and experiment from there

I started to glue on the spray rails today, a bit slow due to the awkwardness of holding them in contact with the hull but so far so good. Once these and the chine strakes are on then I can concentrate on the topsides.



How is yours coming on PMD? Are you ready for the water yet?

Regards to all - Ramon
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andyn

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #72 on: February 23, 2009, 11:03:29 PM »

I cant remember what my merco had on it, but the first one had lost so much compression it could only turn a brass 35 prop. The second one turned a X50, but very slowly with one hell of a lot of torque, and it never stopped...
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FullLeatherJacket

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #73 on: February 23, 2009, 11:19:22 PM »

Ramon
The original plan specifies a Graupner X50, so I guess that's what we used on our HP 61. Then again, I don't remember trying anything else so maybe there's room for experiment!
FLJ
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Ramon

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Re: 1/8 scale Fairey Huntsman
« Reply #74 on: February 24, 2009, 10:42:30 PM »

Thanks Andy, FLJ and Norman for the PM. Looks like an X50 it is. Howeverrrr!

I can get an X50 in with about 3mm to spare. I know it's a bit late to do anything about it now but would you cast a wary eye over these couple of pics and tell me if this closeness to the hull is likely to have a detrimental effect.

X50 - appx 2mm clear


X45 - appx 5mm clear


I managed the rest of the spray rails and the chine strakes today. I used the Titebond 3 waterproof glue because of its amazingly quick grab time. They were not an easy thing to hold in position other than a couple of weights and loads of masking tape. I have bought some new P38, a product which I haven't used for years. Any one know how good this is bonding to wood - I intend to fill and smooth the edges of the spray rails with it.



Soon be working on the topsides now

Regards - Ramon

 
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