Topic: Deans Marine RAF Fireboat Build (Read 9102 times)

barriew · « **on:** December 13, 2008, 06:10:41 pm »

Hi, I don't normally go in for warships and such, but the first boat I ever built, with my father, was an RAF Sea Plane Tender, so I thought I would have a go at this kit having bought it cheaply on eBay.

Kit contents seem reasonable, instructions typical Deans

So far I've trimmed the hull, after getting rid of the moulding wax, fitted the propshaft and rudder and also the motor mount and battery box. Can't quite work out where to put the steering servo as the instructions and photos are different! Trying to work out whether to use a standard servo or a miniature one I have. There is not much clearance between the prop and rudder, and this is after modifying the prop

The motor mount and battery box are in clear plastic which is not the easiest to sand. The superstructure is also moulded in this material.

Barrie

dan · « **Reply #1 on:** December 13, 2008, 09:16:40 pm »

looking forward to watching the build barrie

, any other pics?

barriew · « **Reply #2 on:** December 15, 2008, 11:32:18 am »

Not yet! Only just started and not likely to progress today as I've picked up a stinking cold

Barrie

Seaspray · « **Reply #3 on:** December 15, 2008, 03:43:02 pm »

Hi Barrie
I always use standard Futaba servos they hardly ever struggle turning most boats. Having what looks like a balanced rudder that will help a lot.

Does look awful close to the prop, see how it goes eh.

I would make a servo tray in front of the rudder post (if you don't have anything there) and run a couple of linkages to both servo arms, a short push pull system. If your too far from the Rx you can buy an extension lead.

More pics please as your build continues

Seaspray

barriew · « **Reply #4 on:** December 16, 2008, 08:52:21 am »

The servo is intended to sit at the front of the battery tray - not too clear in the photo, then the linkage has to go down under the rear well. so I dont think I can use a double linkage. Not sure if the well is designed to be removable, if not I'll have to make it so it is. Dont like hiding things I can't get at

More pics when I start again.

Barrie

Ariel · « **Reply #5 on:** December 16, 2008, 01:34:47 pm »

Hi Barrie,

I built the Deans 441 Seaplane tender about two years ago, The suggested internal arrangements from Deans are very similar to what you are building here,

I found it easier to scrap all the internal Deans plastic vacform trays including the motor mounting, I built all the new mounting trays out of plasticard, including one for the servo and battery packs, I also used a standard metal motor mounting that once fitted into the hull with milliput made for a very firm mounting (need to be very accurate with prop alignment though as milliput sets like stone)

Driving the boat is a high revving electric flight 6 volt motor / a Deans small scale universal joint / stainless steel propshaft / prop shop 2 blade course pitch brass prop, the power supply is from a special 6 volt nickle metalhydryde battery pack
Whilst this might not be everybody's idea of the "ideal set up" I can tell you it goes very well indeed and is perfectly trimmed when running at all speeds

I will try and figure on how to upload a photo of it if you are interested and post it on the site

Regards
Ariel

barriew · « **Reply #6 on:** December 16, 2008, 01:44:13 pm »

Thanks Ariel. I have the Deans Marine 'Black 400' motor as specified by them, and using at the moment their prop shaft etc, including the supplied plastic prop. In typical Deans style there are conflicting instructions re-the prop! On one page it says 'Do not use a Brass Prop' and another page it says 'We have a range of suitable Brass Props for this model'

I am happy with the motor mount, but might change the battery tray - photo's would be nice

Thanks,

Barrie

Ariel · « **Reply #7 on:** December 16, 2008, 04:06:49 pm »

Hi Barrie

The Black 400 motor is OK and a good one to use, I described it as a electric flight motor in my last post - this is the same motor, its a good one and it handles the very high revs, if I was building the boat again I would defiantly water cool the motor as it gets a bit warm, but thats more likely down to the extra drag loading of the brass prop, using a plastic one as you show in your photo it should not need this extra work.

Still trying to load the photo!
I rote it all up for Marine Modelling (Feb 2005 - I think) If you have a back issue it shows a lot of pictures of it
If not I can send a picture via normal email if if you supply your email address

Regards
Ariel

barriew · « **Reply #8 on:** December 16, 2008, 05:19:12 pm »

Yes - I've got that copy so thanks again.

Barrie

barriew · « **Reply #9 on:** December 23, 2008, 05:46:43 pm »

Well, back again after a week of 'sick leave' - haven't had a cold like that for years

I managed to make a start again and have now completed the deck supports and started on the cross beams. Once again the instructions show two different arrangements of the beams. I think that the instructions are very shortly going in the bin for all the help that they are. Of course the plans don't show these beams do they

I have removed the supplied battery tray - not sure if I'm going to use this or not. I'm trying to think about the installation of the steering servo - the complication is that the linkage has to go under the aft well. Again - plans/instruction don't make it clear if this well is removable

! This why I was thinking about using a flexible linkage ( see Technical Questions).

Still, the good news tonight is that my daughter has sold my 'Trotamares' so more funds to play with

Barrie

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #10 on:** December 23, 2008, 05:55:55 pm »

Oh, by the way, watch out for the stand, the instructions and diagrams for mine were slightly wrong!

barriew · « **Reply #11 on:** December 23, 2008, 05:57:38 pm »

Thanks Martin - I had problems with mine, but that was before I lined it with an old mouse mat! It sort of fits now

Barrie

SteamboatPhil · « **Reply #12 on:** December 23, 2008, 07:10:45 pm »

Old mouse mat on the stand, thats clever, thanks for the tip
Cor learning all the time

barriew · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2008, 05:38:44 pm »

I've made a bit more progress over the last few days. I noticed it says in the "instructions" that this is a pre-production model - if it is I hope they have sorted things out for the final version. Its a bit of a detective mystery matching the part numbers given to the actual parts!

I am waiting to buy some bits after the holidays to finalise the interior so don't want to fix the deck just yet, so have been working on the rear well and the superstructure. The latter is in two mouldings in clear material. I'm not too sure if I like this. Not sure if its the moulding or the material, but there are no sharp edges. The instructions say to file the corners to give a sharp edge, but the material doesn't take this too well. Its also quite difficult to tell what sort of an edge you do have. I did think I might make my own cabins from HIPS - might still do so. I'll see what it looks like when it gets some paint.

Two pictures of progress. First the well deck- the ladders are not finished yet. Then the superstructure. The tape is to protect what will become the windows.

Barrie

Seaspray · « **Reply #14 on:** December 31, 2008, 10:22:48 am »

She is starting to take shape and looking good.

Seaspray

barriew · « **Reply #15 on:** January 07, 2009, 10:29:59 am »

I keep forgetting to take my camera to the shed

Here are some pics showing current status. The superstructure is almost ready for painting, when I expect to find that lots of filling is required. Its quite difficult to see problems with the clear plastic mouldings. After considering various ways of mounting the rudder servo and connecting it to the rudder, I finally decided to use the mini-servo that I had. It fits under the rear well, and has allowed a short direct link. I hope it will be powerful enough - I do have the option of making it push-pull, or I think I could get a regular servo in there if needed. More of a problem is fixing the rudder arm to the post - I might have to modify that. The rear well will lift out so access is not a problem. I plan to stick down the deck as the next job.

Barrie

barriew · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2009, 03:38:13 pm »

The rear well is now installed, it is removable, and the main superstructure is being fitted. I had a serious problem to resolve. The rear cabin, a vac-formed moulding didn't fit the coamings, which were fitted round the deck cut-out. The hole was too big, which considering it was cut to the printed lines is a bit of a nuisance. I've padded out the coamings so that it now fits. The whole thing needs some sanding to make it fit flush to the deck, But I think I'm going to give it a couple of coats of primer first so that I can see if its going to look OK. If not, then I will scratch build a new one from plastic card.

Barrie

barriew · « **Reply #17 on:** January 18, 2009, 04:23:58 pm »

Most of the painting is now finished (deck has been painted since the photos were taken). I am not happy with the superstructure and will definitely be building a new one from. I will however finish this, making sure the fittings are removable. I go away fro two months in 3 weeks time, so will finish this so that I can sail on my return.

As I mentioned the superstructure is moulded from clear plastic, you then mask the windows and paint the remainder. A good idea, but the plastic is not really clear, and scratches easily. I found it difficult to get sharp edges, so not a great success to my mind.

Barrie

barriew · « **Reply #18 on:** January 24, 2009, 07:02:50 pm »

Rather than install the fittings on the moulded superstructure, I decided to go ahead and try scratch building a new one. This is going pretty well. I think it will look 'sharper' when its finished.

One problem I always have is cutting window openings - I never can get them as clean as I would like, whatever method I try. Inspired by the vinyl cutout frames in the Deans kit, I decided to try making my own. I have a vinyl cutter 'rescued' when we closed down the office some years ago. I have used it for lettering, and decided to see if I could cut window frames. Many of the windows on this model are standard rounded rectangles, and the cutter software can draw these easily. For the more complex shapes I scanned the frames from the Deans kit, and this has been reasonably successful. I guess what I really need is some decent drawing software. I have attached a scan of some of the frames - in Burgundy but these will be painted. ( Not sure that this shows very well - the edges are smooth and regular.) It is possible to get silver vinyl, that's what the kit ones were, so in future I will get hold of some of that.

Barrie

barriew · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:50:18 pm »

The model is now almost finished. The white metal Cowl Vent castings were unusable - different sizes, holes in the castings, etc so I will buy some new ones when I return from holiday. Similarly the searchlight. Apart from that its ready to sail - if my battery pack is OK. I can't seem to get it to charge - will post a query in the Electrics section.

Barrie

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Author Topic: Deans Marine RAF Fireboat Build (Read 9102 times)

dan

Ariel

Ariel