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Author Topic: Working with Plasticard  (Read 25487 times)

Circlip

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #25 on: January 19, 2009, 01:42:42 pm »

Although the posting is material specific ie. "Plasticard", users should be aware that "Generic" terms can be missleading. Not all vacs are "Hoovers" so ABS solvents wont glue pvc's sucessfully. It's very much horses for courses so you should make sure that the adhesive you're using is suitable for what yer sticking together. Ask Five Star how many types of cyano there are, one size doesn't fit all.
   Regards   Ian.
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amdaylight

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #26 on: January 19, 2009, 02:01:36 pm »

Andre:

  Is that corner chisel a Dremel accessory too? Neat item to have in the toolbox.

John

John,

No it is not, I got it from "Woodcraft" ( http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=143717&FamilyID=4433 ), a store that caters to the home wood worker. It is designed to trim the corner of a depression that was routed out for a hinge or a lock set on a door and door jamb.

Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon
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oldiron

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #27 on: January 19, 2009, 02:08:18 pm »

Andre:

  Is that corner chisel a Dremel accessory too? Neat item to have in the toolbox.

John

John,

No it is not, I got it from "Woodcraft" ( http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=143717&FamilyID=4433 ), a store that caters to the home wood worker. It is designed to trim the corner of a depression that was routed out for a hinge or a lock set on a door and door jamb.

Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon


 Thanks Andre. Appreciated.

John
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barriew

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #28 on: January 19, 2009, 05:26:32 pm »

For anyone in the UK the corner chisel is available here, amongst other places.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21407&src=froogle

Barrie
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Big Ada

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #29 on: January 19, 2009, 05:53:47 pm »

Regarding the life of Styrene ( sounds like an old Radio programme ) you need to get things into perspective, how old are you and how much longer do you expect to be making and sailing model boats, in most cases Styrene will outlast you,makes you think doesn't it.

Len, nearly an old Fart.
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #30 on: January 19, 2009, 06:22:39 pm »

Very true Len. But in this month's Marine Modelling the editor points out that when the present generation go to the Great Workshop in the Sky, nobody will know how to build model boats anymore. Only our work will be left behind and if it disintegrates after 30 years there'll be nothing to remember us by. Not like the guys who made this:
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oldiron

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #31 on: January 19, 2009, 07:08:05 pm »

Very true Len. But in this month's Marine Modelling the editor points out that when the present generation go to the Great Workshop in the Sky, nobody will know how to build model boats anymore. Only our work will be left behind and if it disintegrates after 30 years there'll be nothing to remember us by. Not like the guys who made this:

  Quite right Colin, however, thats true of many things in our society. My pet peeve has been photographs. Not many digital photos taken today are going to survive for the next century. On the other hand we can still make prints from the first negatives taken. All this technology change is not necessarily a good thing.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #32 on: January 19, 2009, 07:09:32 pm »

Just got through on a "quote" response, but can't get back in on a "reply".

John
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #33 on: January 22, 2009, 09:11:08 pm »

A question on storage,

I found a supplier in Oz that I can and have purchased large sheets of HIP (high Impact Styrene) very cheaply, I have several sheets of each size 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm and 2.0mm
 Currently I have these sheets in my other shed vertically, against a wall between various sizes of marine ply. It's summer here and the temp can and has risen above 40 degrees C inside the shed. Although not in direct sunlight, will the heat in the shed effect the styrene sheet??

Also in my other shed where I work on my models, I have placed hooks beneath a shelf and attached the Evergreen strips to the wall in their various packets. I did this for ease in finding what I need. This shed also reaches high temps in extreme weather but due to location, can be a bit on the dark side. Is this a possible future problem? Can I leave them hanging or should I place all the packets in a steel cupboard..

Martin down under
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #34 on: January 22, 2009, 09:24:04 pm »

Martin, who in Australia did you buy your styrene from? What's the price like, and how much freight - or did you pick it up yourself?

Peter.
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #35 on: January 22, 2009, 09:48:17 pm »

Martin, who in Australia did you buy your styrene from? What's the price like, and how much freight - or did you pick it up yourself?

Peter.

G'Day Peter,

I will find the receipt and pm you the details. The company specialize in HIP. It's like walking into a supermarket of Plastic sheets. It's in the SE suburbs of Melbourne and takes me about 2 hours to get their. Thank god my car runs on gas. There sheet sizes range from about 900mm x 1350mm up to 1800mm x 3600mm. I have purchased the small sheets and some at 1200mm x 2400mm and surprised by how cheap they are. The Hobby shops are making a real killing if they buy their sheets from this company. I do believe they freight there product interstate.

Imagine how many stuff ups I can make and it will barely be a few dollars, if that. %)

Martin
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DickyD

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #36 on: January 22, 2009, 10:13:22 pm »

Store the sheeting flat Martin. :-))
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #37 on: January 22, 2009, 11:20:25 pm »

Store the sheeting flat Martin. :-))

So I should lay the sheets down and not vertical.... Hmmm, will have to find a new location out of the way.

I know..... make a shelf under one of the eight benches - that should do the trick :-))
Thanks Richard.

Martin
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #38 on: January 23, 2009, 12:10:23 am »

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Umi_Ryuzuki

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #39 on: January 23, 2009, 06:50:10 am »

posting is weird today...
 {:-{


I bought a 4' x 8' sheet of 0.030 thick styrene
for a project. I cut the sheet in half length wise,
and rolled and stored that half. There is no way that curl
 is coming out.

I used styrene on the ferry because I didn't want to have to
seal and sand the sides of the ship.
It seemed like it would be hard to support while sanding.

On the fireboat, and the springer , I didn't want to battle
battle with the grain of the wood being weak when crosscut
at the narrow window frames. Having to seal and sand the
facets had a little to do with the choice of styrene in these instances.
I still fill and sand at all the joints.





 :-)
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Umi_Ryuzuki

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #40 on: January 23, 2009, 07:24:46 am »

Also, for the scale, I wanted to minimize the thickness
of the materials.

The fire boat  and springer pilot houses.

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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #41 on: January 24, 2009, 10:25:42 am »

Greetings,

Depending on the thickness the best way to cut plastic is to scribe a line and then snap it over a sharp corner, it will break off just like glass. On the thinner plastic a rotary cutter like the one in the photo below works real well.

I use a thick ruler or square to guide the scribe or the cutter, the thicker the ruler the less chance of cutting one self.

I am sure you will have many more questions, so just ask away and I will try to answer them.

Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon

Andre,

Up to what thickness Plasticard have you been able to cut with the Rotary cutter. Swmbo has offered a lend of hers using a spare blade. Also, which diameter blade did you use, 12mm, 28mm or 40mm .

Martin down under
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #42 on: January 24, 2009, 10:41:15 am »

When using Styrene, if your joint is not perfect, can P38 be used to fill any gaps or is their another product available.

Also, I need to make some ammo lockers and will be building from balsa block then sticking styrene over the top. Which adhesive is best in this case.

Martin down under
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Proteus

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #43 on: January 24, 2009, 10:46:44 am »

Hi Umi, the plasticard work looks great, and I think I may have seen the later pictures on another site illuminated , if so have you got any pictures of the underside as the small lights are so crisp without any of the light bleeding out, also what is the modeling knife you have with the rubber grip it looks like it may help me be able to hold a knife better, have you a name /make for it

thanks again and very nice as usual

Proteus
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barriew

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #44 on: January 24, 2009, 10:58:56 am »

When using Styrene, if your joint is not perfect, can P38 be used to fill any gaps or is their another product available.
Martin down under

Martin, you can use P38, but I prefer to use Squadron White Putty (they also do a green one). This is finer than P38, and being white easier to paint over particularly on white superstructure :-))

Barrie
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #45 on: January 24, 2009, 11:15:00 am »

When using Styrene, if your joint is not perfect, can P38 be used to fill any gaps or is their another product available.
Martin down under

Martin, you can use P38, but I prefer to use Squadron White Putty (they also do a green one). This is finer than P38, and being white easier to paint over particularly on white superstructure :-))

Barrie

Barrie,

Is that a fairly common product? Do you think I can find it in a hobby shop in OZ. Maybe buy it online from the UK - Which hobby shop do you think I can order it from.

Martin
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Rex Hunt

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #46 on: January 24, 2009, 11:36:18 am »

Can anyone advise me as to the best way to produce a truncated cone using plastic card?

Trying to make the foremast for HMS Hermes so far without success!

Rex
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DickyD

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #47 on: January 24, 2009, 11:39:21 am »

Styrene to balsa Martin, you need superglue.

You can use P38 filler or over here we have Humbrol filler or 2 part Lilliput filler which is like a putty and comes in white or brown.  :-))
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Martin13

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #48 on: January 24, 2009, 12:21:36 pm »

Styrene to balsa Martin, you need superglue.

You can use P38 filler or over here we have Humbrol filler or 2 part Lilliput filler which is like a putty and comes in white or brown.  :-))

G'Day Richard,

Doesn't that Lilliput 2 part filler sets like concrete. 2 sticks, peel equal quantities of each, squash together till one consistant colour and apply - or am I thinking of something else {:-{

Martin
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Seaspray

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Re: Working with Plasticard
« Reply #49 on: January 24, 2009, 01:01:59 pm »

I had Milliput go that way years ago and haven't used it since. A two stick mix to. I used P38 now but try and get a very flexi filler if there is one about . Possible Plastic Padding.

I noticed that White Ensign Models, Ludlow have putty on their site.

http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody
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