Hi all,
Progress has been slowed down by the heat and bugs... gotta do all filling and sanding outdoors. So far i have the hull almost as smooth as i want it, just a few small pocks and bubbles to fill and then it's ready for glassing.
Speaking of glassing, I must admit i have little idea how to do it properly, and so i have a number of questions:
- can you reduce the amount of hardener added to prolong working time? Even with a helper i will need quite a bit of working time, considering the length of the model.
- can you use two sheets instead of one, overlapped slightly in the centre? Can you apply one sheet, let it cure, then apply the second?
- what is the best way to apply fiberglass and resin? Tin says to soak the cloth separately, then apply it to the surface and add excess resin. Building demos here seem to involve laying the cloth on the hull and painting resin overtop. Is there a right and wrong way?
Thanks for all the help so far, i hope i can do ballasting trials in a few weeks, if the heat hasn't boiled off every lake in the vicinity.
The build is looking good
1) You are playing it doggey trying to alter the setting time with less hardner. It will work to an extent, however, you run the risk of it not setting at all. In your case, only mix up enough resin to do a third or a quarter of the hull. Start at one end and work to the other. Don't wait for one section to fully harden before going to the next. When you're done with one batch, mix the next and move along. You can over lap the resin as you go. It will be helpful to have someone else to assist you on this too.
2) Yes you can use multiple sheets of glass fibre. However, you could do it in one. Place the hull upside down, cut the glass cloth to the size to fit the hull. Place it over the hull, notching it at the bow and stern so you don't get any bunching. Place it over the hull in the correct position. Use cyano to hold it down at spots along the edges. Mix you resin and start at the keel and work downward to the edges of the hull.
3) Don't soak the cloth separately. You'll never get it on if you do and end up with a small mass of resin/cloth that you'll never do anything with. Go to Canadian Tire paint section and buy one (or more) of the cheap small foam rollers. The throw away kind. Mix your resin in a small container ( I find a small plastic Yogurt container works well) and pour a strip of resin along the keel, starting at the bow, for instance. Using the roller, starting at the keel, roll the resin into the cloth moving the roller from the keel down word. Don't apply a lot of pressure or you'll draw and drag the cloth and get your self into an awkward situation. Work from the keel down both sides more or less equally. The roller smooths out the resin requiring less sanding afterward and creates less drag on the cloth reducing the tendency for it to slide around. It also works better than a brush to remove air bubbles without disturbing the remainder of the cloth.
Pay special attention to the air bubbles. Roll them down to the edge of the hull traveling in the same direction. Imagine trying to remove an air bubble when you're wall papering. Same thing.
I use Canadian Tires fiberglass resin from the body shop section. Works great. The small tin will go along way.
When the exterior is done, resin coat, only , the interior too. A cheap paint brush works well for this. Put a little extra in the bow when you're done "painting the interior of the hull, then stand the hull on end, bow down, and let the lot set. This will make the bow section much stronger and reduce the damaging effects if you run into something while running.
If you have any more questions, send me a PM and I'll give you my phone number. We can talk about it that way.
John