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[steve pickstock]

What paints are you using? Colours and types, makes etc?

[warspite]

 

Well, here are a few pictures after painting the hull, started to ' rig '  her out, the front is sealed just need to fill the apparent crack with paint, i tried to create rust on the spade anchor, need more practice and paint it before fitting 

The bridge crew is on board and the main gun is not yet crewed but will be tomorrow.

Shown is the rear with the cover for the power switch which for the purpose of photos is a slip of plasticard until the build is complete the rear cover comes out on a strip of hollow box section, if water gets in this where it will have to come out

and the painted underside.

I am using plastic wire, to represent the rope and cables, and will have to paint it black, but on the water I expect it will damage easily, so i may have to replace it later, as yet i still have to complete the rigging of the rear, a bit of touch up and fit the guns and remainder of crew.

Weight is at this stage 193g and is about 5% increase from the earlier postings.

Steve - I am using humbrol paint (these are really old, don't know how they have still remained usable) matt black (forgot the number) generally all the main deck hull etc is M75 - sorry about the finish it will be nothing like your quality - i will compile a list for what i used

Oh and the anchor has multicore stranded wire to simulate the cable - don't know how long it will last before rusting.

[warspite]

well, last set of posts, here a few pictures of tonights fitting out, the crew is installed (one fell overboard, lost at sea - (actually to be used elsewhere) )

The rigging is now complete and painted - although i do not expect it to survive that long, neither the guns on the tubes, but we will see.

if i get chance i will try and get a picture of it on water (sink, bath etc) to show the final waterline at the full weight for this model as 195g. This being a prototype the next will be a different running set up          -         YES,  there is plans to do a second, kit bought and waiting for me to develop another drive system, i will wait to see how steve does his as a twin screw unit  if only i could get better use of the motor, will have to see what happens after the test run.

[warspite]

Steve in answer to you enquiry regarding the paints

all but one of the paints are Humbrol - several years old (i still have some tins from 10 years or so) the other is a revell, here is the list


Revell     - Matt 75 grey - virtually everything (it's slightly greener than the actual colour of the kit unpainted)
Humbrol - Matt Black multipurpose enamel - hull and rigging
            - 16 Brass / gold - bridge
            - 70 matt brown - staffs gaffs rust of anchor
            - 11 silver - wear etc gun springs some handles or bits
            - 72 brown - canvas roll down at the front of the bridge, coats of the crew, twin thompsons stocks
            - 61 matt  - flesh, faces etc
            - 22 Gloss white - bandstand hand rail, and mast

But all this is in vain, did a test run of the boat just now 20:15 and the motor does not turn over or even flinch, it worked several days ago after just fitting the deck, rudder works but unless i find a way of breaking in this will be consigned to the almost ran brigade. oh well never mind 

[warspite]

the latest is that i'm in, the cause was my bad soldering, so of to the loft to see if it works, then seal it all up again, breaking in caused 2 cracks in the left side about 5 mm for the longest and a small 3mm triangle is now needed for the bow, oh and fixing the crack all the way to the keel, will post the result in a bit.

[warspite]

Well, it works and the decks back on, just have to paint over the repairs to seal her and then back to the plans for mainden voyage - phew  

oh and while i was checking for film of the speed of these on youtube i saw a boat called a 90H this seriously moved and turned on a sixpence

[warspite]

  unfortuanetly the weather today is very windy, the waters choppy and cold, so the launch has been prosponed until better weather.

Time to get out the s-boat and get her sea worthy again, she has a MFA 3-7.2v motor fitted, but i have to see if she will run on the 6v battery packs i have, the esc will not work with this so will have to see what FLJ's got   

[warspite]

 
Well – she’s had her bottom wet this morning, apart from the threat of a couple of swans with chicks turning up unexpectedly looking for a free handout of bread and then hissing at the boat – cheek!!!! 

Time run was over an approximate distance of 6.3 metres, waves on the water were approximately 10-15mm (1/2” give or take), when heading with the waves, the time was approximately 6-7 seconds.

Reverse calculating this over the 248” (20 foot 8”) gives 35.4”/sec which results in a total speed of 17mph – 14 knots.
So 389 is now officially launched at 7:10 on the 9th June 2009 (should have waited till the 3rd of august 3 - 8 - 9) her nick name is Springer,  yes the nose dives under full power.
Going into the waves (remember these are 10-15mm high – ripples) the deck was seriously awash up to the bridge, the return with the waves coming up from behind was not much better, and as she gathered speed the nose ploughed under the water, covering the area consistently up to the bridge.
In conclusion – and a note for Steve Pickstock  , you will have to get the weight distribution spot on, on the next attempt at one of these, the motor and battery will need to be further back, at least behind the rear of the bridge so that the majority of the bow is out of the water, though I do not think that will make much difference anyway, it’s definitely a fair weather boat. I apologies for no photo’s as I had to get to work straight after, and there was no one to help take any.

[steve pickstock]

Yay! for wet hulls.

Notes taken.

Steve

[warspite]

 

The question now is - twin prop and motor or triple.

Based upon weight this means very light motors, vitually no propshaft and plastic props, the question begs, if servos were used and that the shaft of said servo motors could be extended enough, the prop supported sufficiently, and the prop positioned as close to the hull as possible, the motors as high as possible to the sides and the battery between the first cowl (the second cowl has the switch fitted) and the rear of the bridge, would two servo motors be better than the single that i have installed, in fact here is a question, if one 20mm prop was replaced by two 20mm props running at 2/3 the speed, do you think there would be any speed difference ? and what if you could fit a third driveline as per the original -assuming you could run 3 motors.

discuss 

[warspite]

well try this for size - i still need to know if anyone else has done one 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9Ei3X0A6Q0

hopefully this works

[frogprince]

Our fleet have done 1/72 Revel PT117, MTB amd Airfix 1/72 rescue launch. The common setup is Robbe or E-sky 180, GWS ESC (for park flyer) Brass plate motor mount and 20mm Graupler pros cut down to about 14mm and 600mAh Li-po. double deck.

They go very fast but watch out for the heat. Do not run longer than 5 minute in full speed without giving time to cool. 600mAh can run roughly 20 minutes at 1/2 to 2/3 of full speed.

I hope it help.

[frogprince]

Sorry, I just read the complete post

The only way to go is Li-po battery to cut down weight. The only size fitting perfectly is the E-sky 600mAh or similar. Watch out for pros size. From my experience with my 1/72, I concluded the pros size must be less than 15mm. Also watch out for the motor. Li-po is 7.4. Mini-Z motor just barely can stand with short running time. We tried atomic mini-Z (130),E-sky 180 and Robbe 180. They are very hot when running in full speed. The hot gas from the 130 melted a hole on the inner waterproof deck.

The set up mention on my last post enable boat plan at half speed. For planning boat the CG should be 1/3 of the water line length measure from stern. This should solved your nose dive.

My current 1/72 have been decommission. Only the S-130 still here. Go to you tube to search for s-boat. You should able find a nice video shoot by a nice gentleman few years ago. I think I still have a hull of the PT 117 around somewhere.

[warspite]

 

Thanks for the information, so there are others out there, too many people stated that Lipo's were not a good idea, so i opted for the standard route for the running gear, other than shifting the weight further to the rear (looks like i will have to break in again). There is going to be more paint than plastic at this rate. 

[warspite]

FLOODING

for those interested, the boat was tested in the sink by adding a little weight to the rear in the form of 3 AAA batteries , this was to try and lift the bow out of the water.

in doing so i forgot that the prop shaft is not a high as it would need to be and although the tube has been filled with grease, this does not mean it is water tight, as the rotation of the shaft makes the grease run up and out of the tube  ----------- soooooooooooo the water also runs up the tube, need to put something a little better in.

conclusion - break in and shift the battery or more likely, build the next better - 389 will be a proof of concept, question to steve - even on your LCT5 the close tolerence of the plastic to the shaft may not stop water ingress - greasing up the tube may not stop water ingress, any rotation of the shaft may displace sufficient grease to allow water to travel up the shaft.

[frogprince]

Li-po are problematic. But for small boat, there is no choice. Li-po is ,by nature, unstable. The chemical inside will emit OXYGEN when heated beyond the stated ratings. You need a high quality charger. Mine is almost 100 pound but is a high end multi-chemistry charger. Li-po will never be recharged properly when the voltage drop below 3.3V per cell for high discharge. For tug boat, you can get away with 2.7V volt without damage. They also required balance charge. It is why Li-po are not popular, but they are absolute fantastic if you know how to care for them.

Sound like your pros shaft and tube is not match properly. It happen to me once when I use Tamiya push rod as the shaft without realize the rod is 1.8mm not 2mm. My PT-15 (my first boat) flooded rapidly.

Try cable grease use for flexible pros shaft. Water never travel up the shaft even with Atomic 130 motor running at 22,000 rpm. My 54 inches boat and my Flower use the same grease and running for three hours in the sea without any water got in.

[steve pickstock]

The shaft on the LCT is actually Horizontal and passes through two pieces of 2mm styrene sheet - with a space between - before entering the packing tube. Once the boat is in the water I expect it to be down at the stern slightly - radio gear etc. It was suggested to me that a light grease will do the job - cable grease sounds fine - so will get some of that.

[warspite]

 

Any particular make of cable grease?

I am planning on a little bit of internet shopping this weekend, but work will be taking over again for the next 2 months as we rush to complete a new major contract, so i apologise if i do not post in the coming weeks.

[frogprince]

Prather products Inc. cable grease

[warspite]

thanks for that