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Author Topic: Why not model carvel?  (Read 4408 times)

gondolier88

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Why not model carvel?
« on: June 18, 2009, 09:01:28 PM »

Hi all,

A question i've been meaning to ask for a while now- I love to see a well constructed model wooden hull- i'm sure most of us 'boatys' do- it is after all contemporary to half the designs out there- however why has the method of planking with parallel strips, with stealers to close the gaps where the two directions meet, been addopted?

Is model carvel really that hard?

Greg
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dreadnought72

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2009, 10:44:34 AM »

At 1:1 size, a carvel hull requires a lot of time spent on it to ensure that the planks are narrowed and bevelled at the edges to fit well before caulking.

In model terms, this is probably more wasteful of wood than simply applying parallel planks and filling occasional gaps with the odd stealer. This shortcut is considerably quicker and more straightforward - and given that most hulls are painted externally, who's to know? ;-)

Andy
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tigertiger

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2011, 03:31:40 AM »

I have seen it done. With model shipwrights, as they call themselves. I have only seen it done on static models, and these were varnished to display the planking. This does not mean it has not been done on working models.

 But, as Greg pointed out, most working models are painted and so why go to the extra work. With working models many liberties are taken that the model shipwright would never condone.
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MichaelK

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2011, 06:19:14 AM »

Is'nt "carvel" another name for "plank on frame"?
Mick
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tigertiger

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2011, 06:48:18 AM »

Carvel and plank on frame are synonymous, yes. But I think the distinction is carvel planking Vs clinker built.

I think it is more to do with the planks abutting each other (as opposed to overlapping), rather than the method of construction of the hull.



In a sense we are carvel planking when we do a plank on frame/bulkhead model, most don't construct proper frames.  And few of us follow the planking methods of the old boat builders using stealers etc. to accurately follow the frames and seal the hull.
The exception being those who produce 'admiralty' models of the old sailing ships.

I assumed that this was what the OP was referring to.
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Netleyned

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2011, 06:53:21 AM »

Carvel is just one type of pof
The planks are laid edge to edge and bevelled on all faces to take up the hull curvature.
Clinker, clencher or lapstrake have the planks overlapping and are fastened or clenched
together with copper rivets or roves.
Both methods use frames either fixed or temporary during the building process


Ned
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Patternmaker

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2011, 12:46:41 PM »

Thames Steam Launch Miranda, carvel planked with one stealer per side.
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MichaelK

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2011, 07:03:14 AM »

Hi Patternmaker,
Lovely planking!
Just 2 q"s
What is the timber?
And how do you remove the rudder for routine maintenance?
Mick
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Patternmaker

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2011, 08:42:06 AM »

Hi Mick, the timber is sapele cut from a discarded window frame, the rudder can be removed by taking out two
countersuck brass screws from the U shaped support fixed to the bottom of the skeg.

Mick
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Pat Matthews

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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2011, 03:51:28 PM »

I think the original question might be "why not SPILE the planks", that is, taper and shape them as with real boat construction... this doesn't eliminate stealers, real boats have them all the time... but it sure avoids the ugly bit in the middle of hull, shown here! No, I'm not proud, and the pride index would certainly increase if I had spiled the planks... even on a model of a metal plated tug hull... it's just finer craftsmanship! But I took the low road anyway...
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Re: Why not model carvel?
« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2011, 08:29:04 PM »

True board shapes on a classic sailboat hull are challenging for several reasons.

1)  We modelers don't like to have butt joints so we use non-scale, overly long strips (134ft in scale length for my last build)

2)  Scale-width tapers at the bow and stern are too small to to fasten down.

3)  Overlongly strips mean we place a lot of extra twist into the board as we go from vertical on the beam to horizontal at the stern, so we need the extra fastening area.

4)  Spiling an overly long board means taking off a lot of wood on both sides since we're making one "U" instead of several "C's".

Here's my last project.  Note the spreader clamps to force the bend twist around the belly (and lots of cheaters already installed)

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