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[HS93 (RIP)]

I have been building my RAF Crash Tender for about two and a bit years, it started as a fast build to be used as a test bed for brushless motors, when I started although I had built a few Aerokits versions and a Nor star I had very little info on them just the 3/4 view that came with the hull ( the scale plan arrived later) . so of I went. then just as it was two thirds finished some bits of info started to appear,I was not trying to build a super scale boat but if the info was there I could not leave it the way it was.fortunately/unfortunately more and more appeared so most of the superstructure and well decks have been binned or altered, one of the last things I have been made aware of are the rear windows in the main deck house (and the front) so I decided to alter them .
The way I have done it was get some very thin brass sheet (freebey) at the Deans show and thanks again and some "C" section brass.
Picture1 shows how it was and picture 2 shows how it needs to be.

next 3 pictures 3,4,5, show it marked up and cut out with scissors.

6 shows it marked out and some small holes drilled to holes it and to act as a guide for the "C" shaped rails

7 and 8 show it being heated to soften and 8 shows it being bent by rubbing a knife handle along its length to put the gentle bend in it

[HS93 (RIP)]

next 4

[HS93 (RIP)]

Next the sheet is pinned to a block and some Flux painted on I use backers fluid with a small paint brush and I use standard maplins solder on a roll pre fluxed ,  9, 10 11 show it awaiting solder and soldered, try to make jigs to hold parts so you just have to consentrate on the solder,  I used a 25 watt soldering iron on this as I am waiting for a new element for my larger one . 25 watt is a bit small for this type of work but if you plan it its OK (just) the only problem I find with to small an iron is that the work becomes messy as you cannot get a nice flow going be for the iron tip cools, cutting the holes out was by sharp knife , but my hands where a bit stiff so I reverted to a nice sharp wood chisel on a piece of MDF it will sharpen up OK . 11 shows it ready for a final polish but with the excess solder removed . it does not have to be perfect as its going to be painted. 12 shows it against the picture of what it should be like .

[HS93 (RIP)]

The blue sheet below picture 11 is the window material I have used it is a bit like polyproperline I haven't used it before but it cuts with scissors and sort of files OK

13 shows it in place still needs some final finishing but the glass is in .

the reason I use brass is because I think I can get a bit more detail on my work , it is not that heavy I started using brass when I got some white metal fittings in the post for my tug and thought I am not putting them on at that weight I made one or two in brass and could not believe how light it was as long as you keep the materials thin.

14 and 15 are a of the catches I have made out of a bit of bent brass and a spring. its opened by putting your finger in the door and pushing the catch back . they hold the lids on very tight a similar idea is used on the rear cover and is opened via the top hatch

16 shows the flux solder iron and brush holder so you don't need lots of special tools to work in brass.

so I now have my sliding windows that work and look a bit more like they should, now to the front top hinged  windows.

Peter