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Author Topic: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203  (Read 80992 times)

Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #200 on: March 07, 2011, 09:41:30 PM »

Stern half of both 2nd planks in glued in place  :-))

It's going slower than I'd hoped but now I have all my tools in place so I should speed up when I get into my groove  O0



For the moment to get my plank bevel I'm simply running a felt tipped pen down the edge marking 1/3rd the depth of the plank and a smidgen down the outside face edge . . .

And sanding it away, its comming out surprisingly accurate.  :-))

I'll do it this way until I dream up a more reliable gadget to do the job.  :-))



Port side . .



starboard side . . .



Overhead  :-))



Check out those caulking grooves :-))

Plank seams are tight and no light passes through  O0

Tomorrow I'll steam the forward end of the planks and fix in place.

I won't go into detail of every plank ad-nauseaum but I will post the odd photo as I progress up the hull  :-))

However I will post newsworthy events  ;)

I think I've said it already but I'm using Cascamite powder glue mixed 3 1/2 parts to one part water or as its called now Polymite.

When the glue goes off I take each of my mid frame clamps off and run a fine knife edge down the caulking seams to clear out splurged glue . . . .

It's a lot easier at this stage than when it sets rock hard! :o

The clamps go back on afterwards until the glue cures :-))

Under the jaws of the clamps I have short pieces of duff planking stock on front and back faces of the plank area being clamped with strips of shopping back between to prevent them sticking to the plank.

And so it goes  :-)

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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #201 on: March 07, 2011, 10:47:20 PM »

I forgot to mention  . . . . .

I hate glue splurged all over with dribbles every where . . .  :o

It's such a pain to clean up afterwards, because for the most part it's difficult to clear dribbles out from an upturned hull . .  >>:-(

Better to prevent the situation in the first place.  :-))

If you take the trouble to fit planks neatly with well fitting seams, you need just enough glue on both mating surfaces to make a good bond when using clamps and pins.  :-))

The gadget I refer to is a foam glue brush . .



I've borrowed the idea from an ad in a Classic Boats magazine for foam paint brushes.

The head is made from flexible but dense polyurethane packaging foam used to protect large heavy machines etc during transit which is superglued to a wooden coffee stirrer.

I cut the heads to the shape required and they apply glue in just the right amount exactly where I need it - no mess :-))
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #202 on: March 08, 2011, 04:00:41 PM »

The forward end of plank #2 on the starboard side is fixed in place, the glue drying nicely.

The steam box pipe has now been lagged with three old bath sheets taped in place with insulation tape, the exhaust from the opening of the pipe is now super hot which means the lagging has proved very effective . . .



Planks reach soggy noodle state in 5 minutes once we're up to boil - twice as fast . . . . :-))



The forward end of plank #2 has tons of twist and edge set but being a soggy noodle this presented no problems  {-)



The clamp and wedge trick is borrowed from the big boat building boys miniaturised  :-))

The caulking groove has closed up on the guard board due to the close proximity of the nails to the edge of the plank    >>:-(

You live and you learn!  {-)

I'll sort stuff like that out during the comestic finishing stage when the planking is complete  O0

The forward end of plank #2 port side will be complete by the end of the evening.

Realistically I'm looking at laying 2 halves of a pair of planks per day at the moment start to finish.

More than half of the time is taken up by carefully fitting mating plank edges for a snug fit.

Offer up plank, note high spots, take to plank clamp, shave high spots off, re offer plank in place etc, etc . . . .

The plank is cut wide of the required plank width so that I can keep shaving this mating edge down until I'm happy and still have room to plot the upper edge of the plank later  :-))

But because the plank has been steamed and dried out in it's new shape you're not fighting a springy plank that resolutely wants to remain straight  O0 <*<

So it's a much more relaxed and temper free situation!  O0 {-)

I dare say that the finished hull will float with no leaks without a sealing coat of paint because of all this effort :-))
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #203 on: March 08, 2011, 04:44:03 PM »

I just love it when a plan comes together  :-))

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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #204 on: March 08, 2011, 09:22:34 PM »

The steaming process goes something along the lines of this . . . . .  %)

Cut the hood ends of the plank so they fit roughly but a snug fit . . .

Fire up the steam box . . .



Wait until we have a good head of steam . . . .



For shorter planks I cut them over long and bore a hole to hang them on me wire hook thingy in the waste end of the plank . . . .

Longer planks are inserted so that the end needing most edge set and twist go head first down the tube . . .  :-))



I've made a polyurethane foam bung with a flue made from a rubber shield found on jump start lead clips  . . . . . (yeah I hoard all sorts  O0 you never know when they come in useful!  :D )

This allows pressure to build up and retains the steam, if you look carefully you can see a dark plume just above the flue  - which you stay away from cos that's super heated air that is! :o



 <*< Gloved hands are essential for removing the bung and extracting the steamed plank, that hot air will take your skin off! :o <*<

Excuse the blurring . . . this was an action shot because I needed that plank on the frames toot - sweet!  {-)



Clamp wobbly plank to frames and allow to cool.  :-))

Some of my Oak is denser than other bits . . . . this particular plank had three rides in the steam bath before I was happy with how it lay over the frames . . .

But eventually it came around to my way of thinking  %) {-)

Allow the plank an hour or so to cool and dry out . . .



At this point the plank will easily clamp in place with no fight at all and you can shape it to an exact fit at your leisure  :-)

You will find when the clamps are removed there will be some spring back but this is easily managed  O0

A Word to the wise . . . . . you don't want the plank too floppy out of the steamer in any case because what you will find with such a plank is that it takes up tight bends at the frames with flat spots in between  :o

And well . . . . . . we don't want a threepenny bit hull do we?  <*<

Steam it so it will give but puts up a little fight so that it springs around the frames in a fair curve  :-))

If you insist on super floppy planks the obvious way the beat the threepenny bit syndrome is to start your build with frames set closer together.

If I were to build a large scale hull like this again (watch this space) I would double up the frame spacing in any case  O0
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dreadnought72

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #205 on: March 09, 2011, 01:05:33 AM »



Classic photo.  :-))

Story of my builds, too...

Andy

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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #206 on: March 09, 2011, 01:09:18 AM »

It's not a model boat Andy . . . .

It's a cat perch! :o

 {-)

There!



Now its a symmetrical cat perch!  :-))

All subsequent planks will now begin to taper to the bow, these two pairs are parallel to gain some space up the stem so that all other planks will have a nice upsweep
(or downsweep as she's upside down!  {-) )

Planks 3 to 7 port & starboard widen from amidships to similarly gain space up the stern post and then the remainder of the planks will also taper to the stern  O0

The rest of the process is a wash - rinse - repeat affair until we can see no more frame edges  O0

I will be planking in the traditional method, i.e. from keel up to bilge and from sheer down to bilge with a shutter plank - probably the middle of the three thicker bilge strakes.

Now that plank will be fun to make  O0

Must crack on . . . .

Might be done planking by Christmas!  {-) O0
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Hammer

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #207 on: March 09, 2011, 09:21:52 AM »

Greg, you say you cant teach an old dog new tricks >>:-( No one knows it all. We should never stop learning. I know what you mean enjoying the build better than the sailing. Geoff
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #208 on: March 09, 2011, 11:18:54 AM »

You're right Geoff,

The thing about scratch building is that you know the real ship was built and existed (in most cases anyway) and with luck you have lines and rigging plans.  :-))

You do your research into method of construction etc but with scratch building there are no kit parts or instruction manuals . . . .  :((

It's all down to the ability of your own noodle  %) and the sum of your past experience with the ability to think on your feet rolled in.

Sometime it takes me weeks to come up with an answer to a particular problem or conundrum but it's great when you get that 'Ah -Ha!' moment that allows you to move forward.

In fact I confess I got stuck on Master Hands stern structure and nothing was 'comming through'  :((  so I stuck her in the loft and there she languished for 12 months!

Then suddenly in January I had this overwhelming desire to drag her down again because the light bulb had come on! {-)

If you stop learning though, you might as well give up building.

That said you also have to know when to put it down and walk away  O0  because sometimes it becomes obsessive  {-)

I read a lot of posts here and other sites and I borrow ideas all the time, we're very lucky to have access to the internet and the wealth of knowlege others are prepared to share in one place.  :-))
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #209 on: March 09, 2011, 06:09:46 PM »

It's all very well him saying wash - rinse - repeat!  >>:-(

But how does he get those nice flowing lines on the top edge of his tapering planks  >>:-( . . . . . . :((

That's what I had ringing in my ears as I sloped off to bed last night tired but happy . . . . .  

So here it is, it's quite straight forward but yet more fiddling.

Remember all those marks we made dividing up each frame and springing battens round to get the run of the planks?

Well now we have a fixed plank forming the bottom edge of the new plank. . . .

And to form the top edge of the new plank we spring our trusty straight grained batten around provisionally to the marks on the frames . . .



But we pin the batten on the marks so that one edge faces the fixed plank adjacent while on the marks . .  . . . .



Which, to our eye creates an 'inviso plank'  :-))

And here's the trick . . .



That sweet line we left the night before on our newly fixed plank . . . .  {:-{



Looks like a Blackpool Pleasure-beach roller coaster after a night on the pop!  :o {-)



You see . . . . the eye is channeled between the two sides and every bump and hollow jumps out like a dogs whatsits!   {:-{



So after tearing our hair out and going away to calm down with a cuppa  {-)

We come back refreshed and look at the job from every angle and with a pencil highlight any spots that need attention as we go . . .



Same with the batten, if it shows a bump or a hollow in it's line . . .

Pull out the pin holding it to the nearest frame (or frames) and it will immediately spring to where it wants to be  :-))

Those plank lines we so carefully marked earlier on the frames are not set in stone, we let each plank dictate it's edge  . . . . just don't deviate a country mile from the marks that's all! %)

The edge of the fixed plank can be fettled using our sanding sick, but go careful - one rub at a time until your eye tells you the curve is even and fair  :-)) not forgetting to re-sand the caulking seam on the plank edge if one is present

( I'm sanding the caulking groove chamfer in the lower edge of each plank and leaving the top edge square so as to present a nice edge to the next plank) . . .

I'm steaming all my planks now so the botton edge I plane straight and true and because it is floppy out of the steam pipe it will edge set against the fixed plank on the hull nice and neat . . .

Because we have the batten on the opposite side of the hull demarking the top edge of said inviso plank we can transfer its edge datums at each frame using the much abused vernier gauge calipers to the freshly steamed and pinned plank blank on the opposite side of the keel.

What we're looking for is a sweetly tapering plank with sweeping edges towards the bow and (with planks 2 to 7 anyway) the opposite i.e. a gradually widening gap with sweeping edges.

That done we steam and edge set its opposite in place and work back from the newly cut and nailed in place partner  :-))

Got it?  ;)

Good . . .

Wash - rinse - repeat  :-))

Footnote . . .

Don't be afraid to sand out a bump caused by a high frame or a hollow by one too low.

Ultimately we're looking for the outside of the planking to show some sexy sweet lines (I need to get out more  :o I know-I know!  {-) )

On real wooden ships it was not uncommon for the planking bods to add a thin shim behind a plank to get it to lay fair with its neighbours and it's no shame here neither.

I'm a realist - just make sure what you do to one side of the keel, you do to the other  :-)) keep it symmetrical folks  O0

But the ultimate prize is when you take the finished model to the pond side . . . .

And the club anorak comes over and casts his official eye over the lines of the planks and is forced to walk away without comment!  {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #210 on: March 09, 2011, 11:08:32 PM »



Slowly slowly . . . .



Catchee monkey! {-)

I've just had to upgrade my Photobucket account to professional cos I've exceeded my bandwith for a free account  :o

Can't understand why..

So now you going to get tons of photos  {-)
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duke of brabant

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #211 on: March 10, 2011, 10:10:30 AM »

Hello again Greggy,


What a great job you're doing on the planking. :-))
I also appreciate the time you take to document every step of the build.

For my static model I use pear wood and I can bend upto 3 mm thick boards easily by simply heating on the ironing board. The flat-iron has an enamel sole and steam holes so no burning of the wood occurs if you continuously move it up and down the wooden strakes.
But of course oak is quite a bit more sturdy and your steamer seems to do the job well.


Wish I had the time to continue my own model, but the job situation has kept me very busy in the last half year. {:-{

I've not come up with a definite solution for the horn timbers yet, but yours seems to fit well.

I continu to follow your subject with great interest, and will post whenever some usefull information comes into my hands.

PS when working with your steamer, don't forget the goggles, burned skin can heal, but eyes are irreplacable. 8)

Greetings, Nick
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derekwarner

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #212 on: March 10, 2011, 10:22:42 AM »

 >>:-( <*< ...not happy Greg with your choice of snacks....... {-)

Yesterday I see a tube of Pringiles "original" ...chips in your workshop..............

Just look at the impressed brown lump I found on a Pringiles "original" chip here in OZ....courtesy of the Belgium manufacturers.........Derek
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #213 on: March 10, 2011, 12:18:32 PM »

Hello Nick,

Thank you for your continued interest, I get pleasure from the idea that others may learn from my experiences, I am trying to write in a style that is both amusing and informative  %)

I have been following your build also, I wondered why there was no progress. No doubt you will continue when you have the time  O0

Pear wood is a beautiful materail, I am looking for a fine grained wood to plank Master Hand's deck, sadly the Holly I have is far too knotty with gnarly grain but portions of it will go to make the deck structures so all is not lost.

But I do have some long lengths of Cherry Tree wood in log from in my garden shed that has been there two years drying out, I will pull it out soon and cut it into planks to see what I have to work with  O0 It is useful having a tree surgeon as a friend  O0

I am pleased to say the steaming apparatus works much better than expected and makes the planking process much easier and more relaxed but I am well aware of the dangers of super heated steam. You have it easy with pear wood  O0

I chose oak a) because most importantly I was given the table it came from, b) Master Hand was built of oak and it appeals to my sense rightness and c) oak is a strong and durable timber and the model will be around as an heirloom long after I am gone  O0

I have a modification to the stern timber structure that I presented here a few months ago.

At the moment it is a collection of scribbles on bits of paper and not presentable here, but it was the reason for me restarting Master Hands construction again after a years break.

I will re-draw it and run it through my scanner and present if for criticism  :-))

Hopefully this may help  :-))

Hello Derek,

That is the most ugliest Pringle I have ever seen! :o

Was it a case of finding half a worm in the apple you've just bitten in to?  >>:-(  {-)

I shall be scrutinizing my Pringles from now on!  :-))
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #214 on: March 10, 2011, 06:21:25 PM »

Is it me?  >>:-(

Or does this happen to other folks as well? %)

You know when you publicly mention that a task is going smoothly and easily . . . .  {:-{

And a subliminal message goes out to all the gremlins within a 50 mile radius and they bring every spanner of all shapes and size to throw in the works they can get their tiny hairy mitts on?  {-) O0

Well that has been today!



This is the forward end of plank #3 and it was an absolute ""**~~?*&^%$ ig to fit!  >>:-( >>:-(

I chose a piece of oak primarily because its length was just longer than I needed so I avoided cutting into a longer piece to save waste . . .



I noticed it was quite heavy so consequently I figured it would be denser than normal and I also figured I might get a fight fitting the plank cut from it!

 . . . . . .

Well that has to be the understatement of the year! {-)

Even after 15 minutes of steaming it still put up a tough opposition  <*<

I don't mind admitting I swore a tad today and shed some blood on this plank into the bargain!  <:(

The clamps kept slipping, the plank sprang back pulling nails out with it! - Arrrrgghhh!  >>:-(

So back in the steamer it went . . . and I sat down with a cuppa tea to cool off while it got hot  {-)

But the quiet time did bear fruit because I came up with these little props . . .



Looks like one of those crazy puzzles that send your eyes funny huh?  :o



Any clearer? . . . .



Here's it's partner . . . .



And this is their job  :-))



They allow me to clamp from odd angles to pull in that ""**~~?*&^%$  :o plank into place for gluing.

The funny angled block gives the sash cramp foot a grip while the grooved pad stops the blunt end denting my newly formed plank edge  O0

Incidentally the first two photos show how I plot the top edge of the new plank  :-))

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dreadnought72

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #215 on: March 10, 2011, 06:35:31 PM »

Inspired! And it'll be no bother to rattle off different angles as the planking proceeds around the frames.  :-))

I like it.

Andy
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #216 on: March 11, 2011, 02:29:47 AM »

Haaa! Andy :-))

You're following my line of thinking!  O0

Here's the mad thing . . . .

It's 14 hours later, I've been at the mothers with my daughters for tea and Mum and I have put the world to rights over a glass of wine or three  :o  O0

(* Hic! * )

And I stroll home (stagger  {-) )



Take off the clamps while the coco is brewing . . . .



And it's as if all that never happened  >:-o

No glue here! - Just pins mind  :o

I confess I've never planked in oak before, I've use maple and birch ply before and the odd strip hewn from mahogany drawer fronts . . .

It's tough stuff to work with - blunting the sharpest plane iron that I have to resharpen every session . . . .

And it puts up one helluva fight . . . .

But I heartily recommend it! O0 {-)

I take my hat off to the old boys that built big ships with this stuff  ;)

They knew what they were about!  O0
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DickyD

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #217 on: March 11, 2011, 02:37:46 AM »

This time of the morning, you're barmy Greggy.  %)
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #218 on: March 11, 2011, 02:48:29 AM »

Hi DickyD

You only just noticed?  {-)

What's your excuse? 

 :-))
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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #219 on: March 11, 2011, 03:06:06 AM »

How long have you got ? {:-{
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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #220 on: March 11, 2011, 03:23:02 AM »

Hang on I'll grab me cuppa and a chair  {-)

Must be something about this model boat building caper me thinks!  :-))

Keeping odd hours helps when you have patient neighbours! O0

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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #221 on: March 11, 2011, 01:06:30 PM »

I love this steaming caper . . . .  :-))

Have I said that already?

Once you've fought the hot plank into place and allowed it to dry . . .



Its made to believe it was always that way . .

And  breeze to fit and glue into place . . .

Even that **%^$"** forward end of plank #3 has finally submitted  :-))

While I was removing the tail end of plank #3 to get it ready for gluing . . . . . one of the pins at the butt join pulled through the plank and remained in the frame  >>:-(

This split the end and left a hole  :o



So it got the fine oak sawdust and runny superglue treatment.

5 minutes later it was sanded smooth and will now be drilled to take another pin when I come to glue the plank down.  :-))

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Greggy1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #222 on: March 11, 2011, 04:10:02 PM »

The Plank Pixies must'ave visited during the night . . . . .  {-)



This is not the plank I fought with yesterday!  . . . . .

Held in place by two quick clamps??



Glued and pinned???



Unbelievable!  :o

The only reason I know this is the same plank . . . . .



Is that it's still got my blood all over it!  :o

You put out a carrot and a mince pie for Santa and Rudolf . . . . .

What should I leave out for Plank Pixies so they visit me again?  {-) O0

 
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George 1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #223 on: April 11, 2011, 10:43:53 PM »

Stern half of both 2nd planks in glued in place  :-))

It's going slower than I'd hoped but now I have all my tools in place so I should speed up when I get into my groove  O0



For the moment to get my plank bevel I'm simply running a felt tipped pen down the edge marking 1/3rd the depth of the plank and a smidgen down the outside face edge . . .

And sanding it away, its comming out surprisingly accurate.  :-))

I'll do it this way until I dream up a more reliable gadget to do the job.  :-))



Port side . .



starboard side . . .



Overhead  :-))



Check out those caulking grooves :-))

Plank seams are tight and no light passes through  O0

Tomorrow I'll steam the forward end of the planks and fix in place.

I won't go into detail of every plank ad-nauseaum but I will post the odd photo as I progress up the hull  :-))

However I will post newsworthy events  ;)

I think I've said it already but I'm using Cascamite powder glue mixed 3 1/2 parts to one part water or as its called now Polymite.

When the glue goes off I take each of my mid frame clamps off and run a fine knife edge down the caulking seams to clear out splurged glue . . . .

It's a lot easier at this stage than when it sets rock hard! :o

The clamps go back on afterwards until the glue cures :-))

Under the jaws of the clamps I have short pieces of duff planking stock on front and back faces of the plank area being clamped with strips of shopping back between to prevent them sticking to the plank.

And so it goes  :-)


  hi gentlemen i'm very sorry to inform you that greggy 1964 sadly pasted way on the 16 of march. he had a massive stroke. he will be sadly misted be you all.

he was my best friend and sailing buddy, R.I.P Greg happy sailing. if you'd loike to leave a note on his face book page please do so, follow the link .


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George 1964

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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #224 on: April 11, 2011, 10:52:34 PM »

 hi gentlemen i'm very sorry to inform you that greggy 1964 sadly pasted way on the 16 of march. he had a massive stroke. he will be sadly misted be you all.

he was my best friend and sailing buddy, R.I.P Greg happy sailing. if you'd loike to leave a note on his face book page please do so, follow the link .

 hi gentlemen i'm very sorry to inform you that greggy 1964 sadly pasted way on the 16 of march. he had a massive stroke. he will be sadly misted be you all.

he was my best friend and sailing buddy, R.I.P Greg happy sailing. if you'd loike to leave a note on his face book page please do so, follow the link .



 hi gentlemen i'm very sorry to inform you that greggy 1964 sadly pasted way on the 16 of march. he had a massive stroke. he will be sadly misted be you all.

he was my best friend and sailing buddy, R.I.P Greg happy sailing. if you'd loike to leave a note on his face book page please do so, follow the link .



hi gentlemen i'm very sorry to inform you that greggy 1964 past away on the 16 of march . he had a massive stroke. at only 46 years old. he will be sadly misted by you all. please leave on note on his face book page .   Greg Bulmer ...yours george leighton his best friend and sailing buddy . R.I.P greg happy sailing .
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