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Author Topic: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203  (Read 86360 times)


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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #50 on: November 14, 2009, 01:10:51 am »

Dreadnought's post (thanks Dreadnought :-))) sent me peeking at the cat boat thread and the beautiful work therein . . . . .

And slowed me down on my own rabbet cutting! >>:-( >>:-( {-) {-) O0

But I got to thinking . . . .

For those of you out there that are taking the first steps into scratch building and following full size practices in cutting rabbets etc. things might seem a little odd looking.

You've spent hours pouring over the ships lines on your drawing and you trust the naval architect's lines and curves implicitly and all seems well and right and your ready! :-)) O0

Then you come to the point of putting chisel to wood, you've plotted things out carefully and the lines drawn on the wood are perfect the chisel edge is sharp.

But yet it hovers over a proposed cut and those little alarm bells are clanging away in your head! <*<

It seems like a minefield of strange curves and shapes! {:-{

That shape can't be right! it looks odd! %) :((

Calm down!  {-) grab a cuppa (or maybe something stronger :-))) and go back to the drawings.

They are there to help you.

If you are unfamiliar with how an open rabbet looks without its cladding of planking to hide it, the shapes and angles will seem strange and odd looking and your sure the planks won't fit.

Relax! :-)) O0

Use the station lines and water lines and make template for places your not sure of.

Taking tracings from the drawings, cut templates from cardboard making the angle from the side face of the stem to the angle that the planks meet it for each water line.

Don't panic if your lines are to out side of planking as mine are. The outside face of the planking and the inside face will be parallel so the angle at which it's faces meets the stem will be the same.

Place the template perpendicular to the side face of the stem at its plotted position line marked on the stem side, this will now give you the correct angle at which the chisel will make its cut into the wood.

Make a vertical cut at the rabbet back line and make a shallow cut to meet it matching the angle of the template but close in to the rabbet back cut just made.

Take another slice, and another and another working back towards the bearding line and all the while matching the angle of the template and deepening the vertical cut at the rabbet back to match each new slice.

Eventually you will have cut out a wedge shaped hole as in the photo above right back to the bearding line.

Take a piece of planking stock and rest it on the top edge of the template and slide into the cut you have just completed. If your cut is too shallow as in the photo above, light will show through between the plank and the template (better too shallow than too deep).

You need to cut a fraction deeper at the bottom of the cut but nearer to the rabbet back face taking nothing away from the bearding line.

Try the trick above again until no light shows between the template and the test plank.

Now you can cut out the bit from the rabbet line down to the correct position of the rabbet back line as above and viola! the rabbet is complete at LL1

Do this at all your water line positions and along the keel at the station positions, you will then have a clear visual clue to cutting and completing the rabbet between these points.

The more keels you cut, the more you will become familiar with these strange shapes and later when the planks fit snugly into the rabbet groove you worked so hard on. . . .

It will all suddenly make sense! ;) :-))


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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #51 on: November 14, 2009, 04:37:42 am »

Greggy1964 says.... "Calm down!   grab a cuppa (or maybe something stronger ) and go back to the drawings"

Excellent postings on the fundementals of plank turning direction Greg thank you ...... :-))..............Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #52 on: November 14, 2009, 09:28:16 am »

Morning Derek

Happy to oblige :-))


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #53 on: November 14, 2009, 09:44:29 am »

We're getting there,

at last! {-)

This is the last notch cut for the rabbet at deck level, starboard side.

The stemhead projects above this point to support the bulwarks but I don't intend to do anything about the rabbet in this area until the hull is planked up and the decks are on. That way it can't get damaged. O0

The test plank is in place resting on the angle template and shows us everything is correct and swimming along nicely :-))

From LL0 upwards the rabbet groove is the same becuase the sides of the ship are wall sided from here on up.

Close up and ugly shows us where work is still needed, the torch is useful for throwing everything into shadow and it picks out those spots that need work in its and glaring uncompromising beam. :o :-))

But as far as the rabbet is concerned it's now just a simple case of two minutes playing dot to dot! O0 {-) and we're done.

Note the tooling marks in the stem at the forefoot?

Marks left overs from the planer at the woodshop where the timber was bought!  %)

*sigh!* More work!  {-)


  • Guest
In frame at last!
« Reply #54 on: November 14, 2009, 06:25:01 pm »

Yeah yeah! O0

I know I know! :-))

Your supposed to set her up on the building board! {-)

But I couldn't help myself . . . . . . she just sorta took over and the next I looked, there she was in all her glory!

I have set her up as she would sit while floating in water.

Here is a walkaround gallery O0 :-)

The last frame at the stern is dubbed the 'fashion timber' which is just hidden behind the stageing post to the left of the photo below.

You can see the horn timbers forming a squre stern on this trawler just to the left of the shipwright shaping the stern boards with his adz.

Off this frame hang the horn timbers and filling timbers which form her pretty stern and yet to be developed in a post entitled 'forming the eliptical stern' comming soon.

All I have done is knocked up the frames to show her lines for your enjoyment here.

Next time . . . . . .

Setting up the frames and keel on the building board proper :-))

Enjoy :-))

And before you ask, no its not a kitchen . . . . . . .  its a workshop with a sink and washing machine! O0 {-) {-) {-)


  • Guest
Mocking up the stern frames.
« Reply #55 on: November 14, 2009, 11:02:00 pm »

Looking at the last photo in my last post I realised Master Hand looked naked without her stern.

Sooooooo . . . . . . .

While she sat there, I spent a pleasant evening mocking up the stern frames to give folks a rough idea what the complete shape of my ship is like.

The top corner of the stern boards in the photo below will eventually meet the ends of the cap rails at the top of the bulwarks.

Between the horn timbers will be fitted filling pieces extending from the fashion frame to the under side of the covering board, these will give a place to anchor the planking.

The only timbers I haven't put in are the quarter timbers, these were huge pieces cut from grown crooks that formed the corners of the stern.

The ends of the stern boards, the bulwarks, and the ends of the top strakes of planking all were fixed to these pieces. The covering board terminated at its front edge on deck with a narrow strip extending down the out side of the quarter timber to meet the covering board.

You can see the space it would occupy in the photo below,  it ran from the top corner of the fashion frame, up through the deck and into the corners of the ship and stopped at the top corners of the stern boards under the cap rail known as the 'taffrail'

The taffrail ran across the tops of the horn timbers and quarter timbers to meet the cap rail on either side and provided an anchor point for the lower double block of the mizzen sheet.

Here we are stood on deck just forward of amidships looking aft at the horn timbers and the stern boards behind.

It's only a very rough setup but it helps me get things clear in my head as to where all the frame parts of the stern fit in.

I got the shape of the stern by extending battens back along the deck from the existing frames and struck an arch where the - funnily enough arch board goes O0  {-)

This board is a continuation of the covering board which forms the edges of the deck along the sides of the ship, it arches across the stern from covering board to covering board.

Hence the name. :-))

Then taking thin battens I projected back the frames under the stern to meet my arch board and from these I was able to determine the shape of the horn timbers.

Once all these parts are tacked together with small pins the whole structure becomes surprisingly solid even without the planking.

The stern was deliberately shaped this way because when the ship was towing her trawl along the seabed, it made her stern squat down on the water and so plenty of buoyancy was required in this area.

The stern boards themselves are at a shallow angle to help deflect following seas under the stern lifting the ship up over the waves and this helped prevent green seas from comming aboard over the stern.

After all, the skipper stood at the tiller just aft of the mizzen mast exposed to the elements and he was grateful for the protection the stern design gave him.

Now the above photos have been taken I'm going to take everything down ready for assembly on the building board proper tomorrow . . . . .

promise!  %% {-) {-) {-) {-) :embarrassed:


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #56 on: November 15, 2009, 12:18:42 pm »

Sorry! {-)

I couldn't resist this one O0

I alway like to get a perspective on the size of the real ship by placing a scale figure of myself on deck!

Childish huh? who cares? {-) {-)



  • Guest
Timber for horn frames
« Reply #57 on: November 15, 2009, 04:33:48 pm »

Thinking of the horn timbers and how I'm going to make them . . . . . .

I have a whole bunch of 28" to 34" girth Holly logs that a my good friend Jez the tree surgeon gave me about 3 years ago.

They have been air drying in the round under cover in my garden since then with the intention of using the wood on my model boats.

The wood is very fine grained and very dense and thus strong.

It will be an excellent medium with which to make deck planks, deck furniture and masts. :-))

But my current thoughts are on the horn frames for the stern.

My intention is to set up a false arch board with covering boards sat on top of the deck frames extending past the fashion frame to the other frames beyond.

This will support the horn timbers where they pass through the rear edge of the deck while planking is completed.

All this will of course be inverted on the building board and why I build my boats so high off the building board.

This is so that I might access structures like the stern while I'm building.

Cutting the logs has proved difficult as my local timber merchant won't touch them.

The tree was in a garden and as people do they bang nails into trees to hang washing lines fences etc.

Over the years the tree girth extends outwards as the tree grows enveloping nails and bolts driven into the trunk.

My friend has wrecked many a chainsaw blade chewing through these wonderful finds while cutting down trees! as well as blocks of concrete and stones >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( {-)

I had to resort to hand bouling the job with my panel saw :-)) :o

It was a tough job until I realised the cut was closing up after the saw had passed that point pinching the blade! {-) {-) {-)

A quick job with my bandsaw and I had a bunch of oak wedges, when driven into open the cut it opens up again which made my life much easier! O0 O0 {-) {-)

Once cut in half my bandsaw will slice the timber into manageable planks when fitted with a ripsaw blade :-))

It has taken nearly three hours with rests to make a 23" x 8" cut with a panel saw and I'm sweating like a jewel thief on a midnight visit at De Beers but I'm getting there! {-) O0


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #58 on: November 15, 2009, 05:21:37 pm »

I done it! Yay!

Look at that lovely model boat building material!

Just opened up, something no-one has ever seen before and I'm sharing it with you lot! O0 {-)

I found the perfect spot for a horn timber frame, you can just make out the grain flowing up the frame past the knuckle and up into the arm. The end that butts up against the fashion frame is on the right.

Here is a close up of the knuckle, grain flowing round the bend just like in the real ship :-))



  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #59 on: November 15, 2009, 06:04:38 pm »

Here is a photo of the same holly wood but cut 90 degrees the the original saw cut O0

The penny piece is for scale and for the U.S. folks is 8/10th's of an inch in diameter :-))

The face has been sanded with 120 grit glass paper, if I go finer the surface becomes polished!

The bark of the tree can be seen at the top of the photo and if you get your nose real close to your monitor, you can just barely make out the grain. :-)) {-)



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Re: Timber for horn frames
« Reply #60 on: November 15, 2009, 09:17:25 pm »

While I love cooking, this is quite easily one of the best uses of a kitchen ever.  ;)

Well done with the cutting of the wood - I once planed a 12' pole round from square stock. Took a similar amount of time, swearing and lubrication.  O0

Enjoying every minute sailing W9465 Mertensia


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #61 on: November 15, 2009, 10:56:57 pm »

Hi Dreadnought,

Yeah I think so too :-))

Thanks mate :-))

Wow thats a lot of planing!

I had to do it all again as it still wouldn't fit in me bandsaw >>:-(

Now it does and I got a whole load of 2" x 1/2" boards to play with :-))


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Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #62 on: November 16, 2009, 05:11:53 am » you need to let tree timber age or dry out ........stacked horizontally with free flowing ventilation...... after the initial splitting  <*< ?................................Derek  :-)
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op


  • Guest
Wood drying and conversion
« Reply #63 on: November 16, 2009, 01:29:37 pm »

Hello Derek,

I'm no expert ok? So I'm just reeling off what I have learned about the subject and by bugging my tree surgeon friend with questions :-))

My holly logs were meant to be converted to boards at the time the tree was felled but I got a flat no from my local timber merchant when I asked him if he would put it through the shop band saw. :(( >>:-(

His reasons were fair enough, he didn't want his machinery damaged by any bolts or nails that might be found in the wood.

Bigger yards have metal detectors which they can run your timber through but they will charge.

Better still if you have your own large band saw but be prepared for the possibilty of loosing a few teeth from the blade! :o

Because my logs are only short, in the range of 3ft long, and I had no tools of my own at the time with which to convert the timber, I allowed the logs to air dry as I have mentioned in the previous post.

The logs have suffered from some checking of the end grain as they have dried but the parts I will be cutting from the boards are relatively small so I can work around them.

If your considering using garden felled wood, it must be seasoned properly if it is to be of any use to you.

Ideally the felled trunk and thicker branches should be converted to useful boards and then stacked flat with thin lats between each board in a dry place but with free air circulation.

Your loft in the house is ideal for this purpose because the wood will benefit from the dry atmosphere, but in the sizes normally used for modelling purposes the stack needs to be weighted down flat and level with bricks or whetever you have handy or they will twist and bow as they dry.

It is important to paint the end grain of your newly cut boards with any old household paint you can lay your hands on as soon as possible after conversion.

Matt emulsion is good, this is so that the wood does not loose too much water too quickly. Wood looses 75% if it's moisture from end grain, think of it as a bundle of straws.

They should be left weighted to dry 1 year for every 1" thickness of board, if you cut your boards 1/2" thick they will obviously dry quicker and the thinner the quicker they will dry.

Also boards dried in the summer months will dry quicker than winter stored timber for obvious reasons.

In the end I was forced to convert my logs with a bit of grunt and a panel saw.

I now possess a bandsaw but its maximum depth of cut is 3" so I had to saw my logs into slabs that thick which was no mean feat I can tell you! :o {-) O0.

I found a guy on e-bay that was prepared to custom make me a blade with 3 teeth per inch for my band saw which is ideal for ripping up rough boards from logs :-))

Below are photos which show you where I'm at so far.

The conversion so far, note the splits in the end grain. We can work around these though, so no worries :-)) O0

Planks roughly 450mm x 65mm x 20mm.

My mean looking band saw blade :-))

My home is an ex council house fitted with warm air central heating so the atmosphere is very dry. My New boards are going to be stacked on the floor under my kitchen table with thin slats of wood between and weighted down to dry until I require them. :-))



  • Guest
More work on the horn timbers
« Reply #64 on: November 18, 2009, 01:03:23 pm »

I'm still working on the stern frames.

I'm busy plotting the developed shape of each frame on tracing paper over the line drawings.

I've also been busy slicing up the holly log with my bandsaw and the new planks have been curing in my centrally heated & very dry kitchen for the last 5 days.

The photo shows that all but one plank have remained straight with only the far left plank moving about 4mm at the far end.

This is because that part of the tree had a small branch sprouting off to the left from the same area as the main branch at the top of the photo with some very confused graining to the wood in this area.

While planing up the planks I found some areas better suited to my horn timbers and planks 1 to 6 from the right in the above photo have been chosen for these frames. O0 :-)

The originals would have been made of oak crooks and I have laid a piece of oak along side the holly for comparison. On the ship the stern frames were left unpainted and at best would have had a coating or two of oil to protect them.

This means the grain would have been visible and while I can cut 1/16th scale frames from oak, the grain will be full size and would look totally wrong! :((

Holly on the other hand suits my needs perfectly :-)) as the grain is tiny

Here is the grain following the crook at the knuckle of the frame with my 12" steel rule below. :-))

Next time, plotting the true developed shape of the six horn timber frames O0 :-))



  • Guest
Stern frames update
« Reply #65 on: November 23, 2009, 06:40:48 pm »

I have spent a frustrating time recently trying to recall my technical drawing skills from collage days lost in my dim and distant past, and plotting the complicated developed shapes of the stern frames have been a right pain!

In the drawing above borrowed from E.J.M's book it can be seen that the frames in question cant slightly inwards to meet the curving stern and also the top and bottom faces of each timber mirror the curves of the stern at each of the frames.

But their sides remain parallel and vertical. This can be deduced by their shape as they pass through the covering boards.

These frame shapes have proved to be most troublesome to develop on the drawing board and after several failed attempts I have admitted defeat. >>:-( :((, at least in the drawing office anyways! O0 {-)

The elliptical stern is a most attractive feature of this ship and I want to capture it in every detail.

I could keep going and know that the forgotten skills would eventually return to me but in the meantime building has stalled and this is frustrating me.

My next plan is to adopt the method used by the original ship yard and develop these timber shapes in situ on the building board by projecting the hull shape back from the existing hull frames using lats of wood rather like I did in the stern mock up I posted earlier in reply #55.

The arch boards I can fix in three D on the model and thus the points at which the stern frames pass through them and also where they terminate under the taffrail.

I'm sure I'll find this way a much more pleasurable route than banging my head against my drawing board! {-) O0 and you lot will see some progress! :-))

The other point that has been bothering me is just how all the stern members come together in the corners on the real ship.

E.J.M would not have been a ship builder and would have only recorded what he saw. But to my mind there are inconsistencies in the drawings.

The beam shelf and how it terminates at the stern has caused me the most trouble.

The see through sketch drawn on tracing paper I have produced above seems to be the most likely way all the timbers sat from studying wooden ship building practices so far.

The sketch looks dirty because it is scanned from the tracing paper drawing :-)) %), here is a link to the original for a better look.

Also in E.J.M's drawings above the deck planks just terminate at the front edge of the arch boards with no support frames underneath past beam 'U', I can only assume the 2.5" thick planks were dowelled into the arch boards?

In the photo above can be seen a trawler in frame, the stern timbers are all in place including the quarter timbers but no beam shelf has yet been put in.

From this I deduce that the quarter timbers did not sit on top of the beam shelf as depicted in E.J.M's sketch above but rather it termites at the aft face of the fashion timber and against the front face of the quarter timber.

The quarter timbers most probably extended to the aft face of the fashion frame as in my sketch, and not stop short where it goes through the deck at the covering board.

Beam 'U' sat on top of the dead woods immediately in front of the stern post and and was a massive 8" x 8" in section compared with the 6.5" x 6" of the rest if the deck beams and would have tied the quarter timbers to the stern post tying the stern together.

All this has given me a right and proper head ache >>:-( >:-o as I want to portray everything correctly in such a large scale model O0

So next will come putting up the frames and keel on the building board as originally promised and we'll see where we go from there! :-)) {-) {-)


  • Guest
Re: 3/4" to the foot model of Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203
« Reply #66 on: November 28, 2009, 06:46:59 pm »

There are a few important jobs to do prior to fitting the frames and keel together on the building board which I find easier before hand.:-)) O0

The centre section frames have their middles cut out to give access for radio, winches batteries etc. For this I marked out a perimeter 25mm to the inside of the frame shape to give me something to nail my planks to. At this point I leave the frames in ring form for strength and will later cut out sections of frame under the deck to form the frames for access hatches. :-))

Next comes plotting of the thickness to the plywood frames on the line drawings, the water and buttocks lines now show the extent of the bevel to be cut on each of the frames. The closer to the ends of the ship, the more extreme bevel we have to cut.

Note all frames forward of amidships have their AFT faces on the station lines and all frames aft of amidships have their FORWARD faces on the station lines and hence we have fayed frame edges following the flowing lines of the ship on which to nail and glue our planks. These are plotted accordingly on the line drawings. :-))

I've taken a leaf out of Bluebirds  :-)) O0 book in using an arrow to direct you to what I'm blathering about, you can see the faint line to the right of station 20 which is the aft face of my 11mm plywood frame, the extreme bevel at water line 1 from the front face to the back face of the frame can be clearly seen.

In the photo above we have frame 14, the arrow is pointing at station 14 on the drawings. I have used a tracing paper overlay to plot the bevelled faces of the frames.

The line to the right is the aft face of the frame plotted using the buttock and water lines but to out side of planking. Right again is the actual line to be plotted on the frame, the 4mm plank thickness deducted.

Frame 14 has the finished bevel cut on its edge.

I leave the extreme ends of the frames at deck level and where the frames join the keel as these areas are fragile and will be removed when the frames and keel are glued together and fixed on the building board. :-))

I used a dremmel type multi tool with a tile cutter bit to cut the bevels, this is very quick to do and extremely accurate with a little practice.

Notice the dyson brush hung on the frames being cut, this is attached via a flexi hose to my dyson hoover and sucks away the copious amounts of dust saving me from chocking and making a mess of my kitchen. O0 O0 {-) {-)

I have found a set of cheapy 2.99 10" metal files in my local nicky nacky c**p shop which are ideal for dressing up stuff such as my frames after they have been attacked by the multi tool  {-) and do a great job of smoothing things out.

Lastly I need to cut a step out of the dead woods to accept the heel of the mizzen mast (photo above), the mizzen mast has a forward rake as can be seen above just to the right of station 18 and was a typical feature of Rye built trawlers. Note the plotted section of the bulwarks at stn 18.

Later I will box in the mizzen and the main masts into their own little compartments. I'm doing this as both masts are in areas I'm designing as water tight compartments at the bow and stern in the ship and I want to be able to remove the masts for maintenance and repairs without disturbing these compartments.

When I have plotted all the bevels on each frame and cut them I will be finally ready to put it all together.  :-)) ;)



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More on frame bevel cutting
« Reply #67 on: December 01, 2009, 10:53:00 pm »

Here are more details of how I cut the bevels on the edges of frames,

The true station edge of the frame is marked black with an indelible marker, no cutting is done here except final trimming.

The bevelled face of the frame opposite is marked in red marker, this line is plotted from the drawings as mentioned in my earlier post.

First job is to set the tile tool in the chuck of my multi tool so that the shoulder of the cutting bit is just proud.

This is done so that no cutting is taking place at the black line when the chuck runs up against the back face of the frame.

Because the cutting tool is straight it cuts a flat even bevel from front to back of the frame, no messing O0

In the photo above the frame in question is clamped down firmly, the cutting tool is rotating away from us anticlockwise and we aim to draw the multi tool towards us with the front face of the chuck running up against the back side of the frame.

To start with the square angle of the uncut frame edge blocks this step but we keep drawing the tool towards us with gentle but firm downward pressure and at the correct guesstimated angle of the bevel at each point on the frame edge.

You will know when its working for you as you will see the typical 'plowed furrows' parallel to the frame edges as in the photo above, when you start to see the furrows in the black line your getting close to the finished bevel.

As the cut deepens and the cut surface widens you will see if you need to adjust the angle of the cutting tool as you go, remember the bevel changes constantly along the frame edge and your cutting has to take account for this.

The chuck can now run against the edge of the frame as shown in photo. Now we can relax a bit as the only cutting will be in the body of the frame down to the red bevel line because of how we set the cutting tool. No teeth in the shoulder of the cutting tool :-))

Here is frame two, the forward most frame. I have deliberately stopped mid way in cutting the port bevel and you can see the whole process from the back to the front of the picture.

The black line at the back edge of the frame serves to show us if things are going too far, if it disappears we are cutting too deep at this point and loosing the true frame edge. Stop and re access the situation and adjust the angle of your cut accordingly.

In the photo above the shoulder of the cutting tool has reached the black line at the back and the red line at the front and the bevel on the frame edge is correct at this point :-))

It sounds a but hairy and aggressive but the tool is only doing what you ask of it, take it steady and don't try to cut too deep with each pass.

It is a quick and simple way of arriving at the bevel that has to be cut on loads of frames O0 {-)

Its sort of like taking a shaving off with a plane but with a rotating tool if you see what I mean :-))


  • Guest
In frame at last!
« Reply #68 on: December 02, 2009, 11:02:26 pm »

Can you tell what it is yet? :-))

 O0 O0 O0 {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)


  • Guest
A question of alighnment
« Reply #69 on: December 04, 2009, 11:08:05 pm »

Building on a flat level base is only the start of how I ensure the model sailing trawler I am building will turn out straight and true.

Each and every frame have the load water line and centre line marked on both faces.

The load water line is aligned parallel with the building board surface to give me a vertical datum to position each frame.

Additionally, centre line pylons are constructed at either end of the building board in order that I might erect a black cotton string line running parallel to the keel and down its centre line just above the base of the frame cut outs to accept the keel.

The photo above shows the inside of the bow pylon.

The photo here shows the back side of the stern pylon.

These two structures are screw fixed to the base and were set vertical using a spirit level.

The pylons may be removed later in the build once all frames are in place ready for the keel to be fixed in position.

The keel will tie all the frames together and I have cut a bunch of 15mm x 5mm and 5mm x 5mm ribbands from softwood that I will bend around the frames, pinning them in place to further strengthen the structure until the planks are fixed.

Using the black cotton string line I can set up the frames exactly on the centre line and when viewed from above the string line gives me a visual alignment of the centre line on the building board surface with the centre line marked at the deck frame and at the slot to accept the keel with cotton string line.

When all four align up the frame is dead centre and correct on the port to starboard axis.

The load water line fixes the vertical position of each frame on the aft face of the bow frames and the forward face of the aft frames with the frame positions on plans and marked on the building board.

I had difficulty aligning the camera to get a shot down on the frames from the string line to show you their correct positioning because the cotton is difficult to see on the camera view screen >>:-(

But I'm pleased to report both frames erected so far are plumb and level where they ought to be! :-)) ;)



  • Guest
Frame supports
« Reply #70 on: December 05, 2009, 03:27:01 pm »

The frames are held off the building board by series of struts, the load water line (LL0) is set at 162mm from the building board surface.

This seeminly arbitrary 162mm is because it allows me to set the stem head on a pad of 1/2" plywood, the whole structure at such a height that I can easily get my hands inside the structure during planking.

An old plastic set square is scribed with this dimension so that I can easily check that all points that should be 162mm from the building board, are! :-))

The support struts and cross bars are 20mm x 20mm softwood held together with appropriate sized wood screws, holes are pre bored for the screws to avoid the wood splitting when the screws are driven in.

The two supports per frame are set equidistant from the centre line.

Both supports are fixed vertical fore and aft by plywood right angle triangles, one support is set vertical transversely, their locations marked on the mating faces of the frames.

Fore n aft supports at frames 10 & 12, note these frames are set over the frame stations marked on the edge of the building board. The ships midship section is almost mid way between these two frames and very little bevel is evident in the frame edges. All other frames will be set up as described before, ie 2, 4, 6, & 8 with their aft faces on the station lines and 14, 16, 18 & 20 with their forward faces on the station lines.

Transverse support, when the frames are set up and fixed, everything automatically lines up,

The keel is held at the bow by the stem being trapped between two blocks,

the plastic set square ensures each frame and the keel are set at the correct height.

At the stern end, the keel is supported on a pylon between frames 18 & 20 securing it at the centre line and at the correct height, a notch cut in the pylon top edge holds everything snug.

again the load water line marked on the side face of the keel is checked with the plastic set square. If you look closely you can see a little pad of cardboard in the bottom of the pylon notch to lift up the keel structure to its correct level

Wood being a living thing is inclined to move with atmosphere changes and the wood in my keel is no exception! <*< >>:-( <*<

That is why I go to such lengths to make sure everything is held firm and in its correct position.

Here I have assembled the keel in place to make sure everything fits before I proceed with fixing the rest of the frames in place, the spirit level forces the keel to conform to my wishes :o :-)). The bonus is that the bubbles in the level shows everything is true. Note the weight on the end of the clamp arm to help straighten out a twist in the keel at that point! :o {:-{

When the frame at that point is in position the keel will behave! :police: <*<

When all is set up, we end up with a sort of three dimensional ladder frame structure that is very rigid and I will have no fear swinging on my oak planks to get them to conform to the hull shape :-)) and there will be no fear of anything moving as its all nailed down! {-) O0


  • Guest
Frames and keel in place
« Reply #71 on: December 11, 2009, 12:41:35 am »

All the frames bar No.20 are fixed in place at last, frame 20 will be installed tomorrow and I can start thinking of the stern framing and tickling the frame bevels to accept the planking.

Here is a bow shot towards the stern, note the black cotton string line strung from the pylons at either end of the building board dead centre down the keel - I love it when a plan comes together :-)) :}

The spirit level is clamped to the stern post to bring it in line with its projected position on the surface of the building board, when frame 20 and its stanchions are in place all will be held in perfect alignment. :-))

The bubble at the top end of the level tells us all is well.

Because the keel was made up weeks ago, the wood has moved slightly requiring a tiny and gentle persuasion to hold its correct position.

The batten over the starboard frames is 14mm x 6mm pine bent in cold which is far in excess the size of the plank section but serves to pick out any high spots that need attention.

Same batten again but fixed at the bow.

All that time, blood, sweat and tears spent on the keel rabbet and frame bevels is paying dividends now I'm nearing the point of laying down the planks.

Here is a view from the stern post, looking down the string line.

The 1 1/4" x No.6 screws holding the frames to the stanchion uprights will be removed after planking is complete.

All the pine supports will be split away and discarded. The screws were bored and counter sunk in the frames so that they will be able to be removed by finger pressure after the pine supports have been removed.

This weired shot is of the string line on the inverted deck crown looking from frame 16 towards the bow, the shot is slightly off to the right and you want to shift to the left to line up the string line! {-) {-) {-) {-) a difficult shot to get bang on (I had three goes at it!) <*< >>:-(

The centre line is bang on trust me! ;) :-))


  • Guest
Oggling a shapely stern
« Reply #72 on: December 13, 2009, 10:18:17 am »

Now we come to make up the stern frames for real. :-))

I have some old plywood drawer bottoms that are just over 4mm thick which by a happy coincidence the thickness of my decks and covering boards.

I have used a sheet of this plywood to represent the decks while shaping up the stern frames. Because of the deck chamber the stuff is forced into a curve rather like that of part of a cylinder which makes it very stiff. The board extends over the last three frames and is held in place from underneath by pit props pushing upwards from the building board.

This allows me to take the plywood away, trim it and place it back without much trouble. :-))

By plotting the curve at the end of the deck and extending the line of the covering boards back I now have the correct shape of the stern knuckle in plan view.

And by applying thin wood battens back from the frames to the archboards I can get a clear 3d looksee at what we have.

On the real ship she had four 1 foot wide stern board that ran transversely across the stern down from the knuckle at the arch boards to where the hood ends of the planking ran into their forward edge.

The line on the above photo just forward of station 22 represents this point. Stn 22 also happens to be the point where the sides met the stern.

What I really need is some 4mm x 4mm battens to represent the thickness of the planking to make up the corners where the arch boards and the covering boards meet to see how to tackle the planking at that point.

The photos were taken in the wee hours of the morning last night and I was dying to nip out to my circular saw and run some up but I think the fun police  :police: and the neighbours might have had something to say about it  <*< <*< so I resisted the temptation! {-) {-) O0

Next time, developing the shapes of the quarter timbers, horn timbers and filling timbers so that we have something to hang the planks on at the rear end. :-)) O0


  • Guest
To errr is to human
« Reply #73 on: December 14, 2009, 01:27:07 pm »

And this one made a right blunder :embarrassed:

But one which was picked up thankfully %)

While trying to work out the corners at the stern I was having trouble getting my dummy planks to run from the last frames into the corners of the stern.

Something was not fair >:-o >>:-( >>:-(

Time to dig out the drawings.

On studying the lines on the plan I noticed the line that marks the arch boards on the building board had too tight a curve towards the sides of the ship . . . . . . . and then I realised what I had done! {-) O0

The clue was in my last post
On the real ship she had four 1 foot wide stern board that ran transversely across the stern down from the knuckle at the arch boards to where the hood ends of the planking ran into their forward edge.

The line on the above photo just forward of station 22 represents this point. Stn. 22 also happens to be the point where the sides met the stern.

I use various diameters of piano wire to plot curves by springing them around pins at plotted points on my drawings to get a fair curve. What I had done when plotting the stern on the building board was to spring a curve with wire and use Stn.22 as the end points of the curve.

This is incorrect! >>:-( >>:-( and just will not do!

What is worse is that I was projecting the curve up to my new plywood stern form for my stern timbers. If I'd had blundered on the whole resulting stern would have been incorrect! >>:-(

If you look closely at the photo above, I have replotted the correct stern curve in blue, the arrow points at the end of Stn.22. All fine and dandy at the centre line.

But not at the corners! <*<

The correct corners of the stern are a short way aft of Stn.22 which meant that the curve was too tight! :police: <*< (note the end of the sheer plank and how it twists to meet the flat profile at the transverse position of the stern boards - which is just about the only thing that is in its correct position!)

Mercifully my huge blooper has been spotted and I can now correct the error.

Which means all the effort in my last post has to be done again  >>:-( . . . . . this time correctly O0 {-)

As a side line, I'm using my steel cabinet scraper tied to a Lego set square with rubber tape to project the correct line up to my plywood stern form. As a scratch builder I see useful stuff for my project in every day objects which is part of the fun in the game :-)) O0

Back to the drawing board  . . . . . .  . . . . . AGAIN! {-)    *sigh!*

Ah! the joys of scratch building


  • Guest
Lowestoft Sailing Trawler Master Hand LT1203 built back in 1994
« Reply #74 on: December 16, 2009, 09:48:32 pm »

I was tidying up for Christmas and it ended up as a clearout and I came across this photo.

It was taken on 35mm film back in 1994, I took lots of photos of the build but sadly this is the only photo that seems to have survived.

I was going through a messy divorce years ago and was forced to sell most of the models I had built including this one which I much regretted later.

The model was built at 1/20th scale, the frames were 1/4" birch plywood with maple keel and planking. :-))

A guy from York bought it and he was very pleased with his purchase.

I think it fitting that the first model I have built since then is the same ship and subject of this build log :-)
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