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[Aidi]

Howdie,

I am just about to start the planking on my model of the Billing Boats Mary Ann.   I have put the first strip around at the top which fitted nicely, and started the second layer.  

Its lined up quite nicely, however in a few places it sits proud of the first layer.  

I am guessing that i will experience this for the whole planking process but as long as its not out by miles, then it will sand down to get it flush and give a nice finish?   

Another option is to sand down the frames a small amount to help the planks line up better?

Thought it better to ask now than later to find out i have made a big mistake!!

Rgds
Aidi

[barryfoote]

Aidi,

DO NOT SAND THE FRAMES........A big no no.
Planks will inevitably appear raised in places, as they twist and bend to the shape required. Once finished the whole lot gets sanded down till they are smooth.

As far as I am aware you would normally start your planking about halfway down the hull or at the bottom and work upwards, depending on the model. Some planke need to be trimmed at either end, making them thinner  towards bow and stern so they lie flat and make the next one easier to lay. It can be a case of trial and error.

Barry

[Aidi]

Thanks Barry!

Glad i asked the question before battling on!   

Rgds
Aidi

[tigertiger]

You should see my planking, on second thoughts 
Very uneven, and the unevenness increases as the curves get more acute, and/or complex.
But I will be doing a lot of sanding and filling.

[derekwarner]

Aidi....an alternate thought could be considered  & it really depends on the actual hull frame height differential + or - that you have created within your hull frames....

In scratch building I have always considered final deck frame level or heights to be a process that must necessarily be followed & resolved in the final build & not necessarily as provided from the cutting room floor

Take a cork sanding block & cut to 1.5 times the hull frame spacing ...with sanding paper & sand port to stdb across two frames only ......move slowly & progressively onto the next frame FWD & AFT until you can witness a smooth transition between the height of corresponding frames  ....do not try & sand the frames in a FWD to AFT motion

Remember if you find one frame say 1.0 mm lower  ....you do not sand all down to that level ..... ...but build up that lower frame......  A good way to recheck is to lay a substantial plank fwd to aft & apply as neccesarly minimal pressure to gauge engagement with the frames 

Follow these simple time proven thoughts & all will be  .....Derek

[tigertiger]

A thought Aida

Is this on the frame that you said, in your other thread, you had problems locating correctly?

[Aidi]

Thanks for all the comments, some good advice to ahere to.

One comment which you made Barry about starting in the middle or at the bottom and working up... It does not elude to this in the manual, in fact one picture shows the planking started at the top working towards the keel which is the route i have followed.

I have only gone two strips laid a the top, is it better for me to now start at the bottom and work my way up?    Better to do it the proven method than a way which will prove problematic as things progress!

Cheers
Aidi

[tigertiger]

Hi Aida

There is no one right way.

But it I think it helps to work from both ends towards the middle.
Why? The top plank needs to be straight, and the bottom plank needs to be straight.
And as some of the planks in the middle will have to be cut to shape anyway, it makes some sort of logic.

The exception being diagonal planking. A different technique completely.

[derekwarner]

Aida....as tt notes.....there is no one right way....but I think it helps to work from both ends towards the middle

In principal I agree with the premise that you start @ deck level & center keel location .........one plank at a time & followed by the mirror reversed plank + plank on the opposite side of the vessel etc & so working toward each other

The only additinoal thought I would offer is to locate the general joining of the down planking to the meeting with the upward rising planking... ..is to plan this area to be in an underwater location of the hull

The reasons for this are many eg.,

You may get to a location where you find a tapered plank is needed but will not line up with a hull frame.......... ...so in this case you can use a blocking plank which is much thicker & can be supported internally & glued with sufficient strength

Post a few .jpgs as you go..........Derek 

[barryfoote]

Aida,

If your instructions tell you to plank from top down, then I assume it may be right, but measure from the top rail to the keel in the centre and at both ends. I am sure you will have a much greater length at the centre and if so, I would start somewhere ion the middle. It will make life easier as you progress.

Barry

[John W E]

Hi Aida

if you look at the tug cervia build in the masterclass , and read from reply 12 this may help you ,as this is how i plank my hulls

aye
john

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