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Author Topic: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory  (Read 55321 times)

JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #150 on: December 31, 2009, 11:33:41 PM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #151 on: January 01, 2010, 02:07:11 PM »

Step 49

Tie two lengths of 3 1/2" rope to the jib traveler,one on each side of the boom.Loop each rope around the spritsail yard outside the innermost of the three collars on the yard.Tie an 11" single becket block to each end of the rope and an 11" single block to the innermost eyebolt on each side of the roundhouses.Reeve the blocks together each side in a gin tackle and tie off the falls to the eyebolts.

Hack P68

Long 227-28
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #152 on: January 02, 2010, 02:22:20 PM »

Step 50

Jib Boom Guy Pendants

41/2" rope,one each side,from neck of jib boom around the middle collars on the spritsail yard,set up as above to the middle eyebolts above the roundhouses.

Hack P68

Long P228
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #153 on: January 02, 2010, 02:37:38 PM »

Step 51

Flying Jib Boom Guys

3" rope,one each side,from the neck of the flying jib boom,around the outer collars of the spritsail yard,set up as above to the outer eyebolts above the roundhouses.

Hack P70

Long P228
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #154 on: January 02, 2010, 03:41:55 PM »

Step 52

Boomkin Shrouds

4 1/2" rope ,rigged from the eyebolts in the cutwater,then around the outer ends of the boomkins and tied off around the eyebolts in the head cheeks.



Hack P70

Long P228



__________________________________________________ __________

This completes the standing rigging.All ropes should be biege from now on, except where especially noted in some of the later steps.
__________________________________________________ _____________
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #155 on: January 02, 2010, 11:52:35 PM »

At this point the standing rigging should be up but not permanently tied down,so that if need be you still should be able to get good access to just about any point on the model.Now would be a good time to do a checklist of all the required belaying points ,eyebolts,sheaves and cleats on the shrouds etc....( tie down the standing rigging only as required to complete the running rigging.)
After finishing the running rigging, I will make up a diagram of the required belaying points on the decks.
It is at this point that the final decision will have to be made on whether to use full sails or not on your model.Harbour rig (like mine) furled sails or full sails? The position of the yards on the masts will depend upon your decision now.
If you are doing a harbor or furled sails rig, the yards will be correctly positioned low on the masts ,while at full sail they will be in a much higher position.
After finishing the running rigging I will do a limited sail rig for those who are interested in putting up some of the sails.None of the rigging for the stay sails will be covered as they are hardly ever put up on ship models of this type, as they tend to hide a lot of the ships details.
Now may also be a good time to think of whether or not to put your model on a stand or in a sea-type kind of diorama setting ,maybe even using a few figures.
My opinion is that a fully rigged ship, sitting on a stand, sailing to nowhere with no crew, is a little beyond believability.The sail rig that I would envision would be for use in reasonable winds ,set to catch a fair wind from the port quarter .A wind such as this would result in the ship being slightly down by the head and heeling very slightly to starboard.
It would not require a lot of crew ,a few on deck and a couple in the rigging and of course one at the helm would be enough to bring it to life.
If you are planning to do such a ship it would be advisable now to wait until I get to the sail rig before doing your final checklist of belaying points etc...

This first checklist may not be as complete as I would like it to be and is in no specific order but it should help you avoid trying to set up an eyebolt,cleat or other rigging at a more awkward stage down the road.
For those who intend to press on now with a harbour rig it is advisable to rig your yards as completely as possible before attaching them to the masts.
Questions or comments? Good luck! Cheers. John.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #156 on: January 03, 2010, 03:51:11 PM »

Rigging Checklist

Please note:that the numbers used here are for identification purposes only and do not indicate any sequence to be used when using this checklist.

1-Beakhead bulkhead-just above the roundhouses at each end of this bulkhead are three 6" eyebolts

2-Bowsprit shrounds hull fittings-on the cheeks of the bow below and aft of the hawseholes are 6" eyebolts one each side for the lower ends of the bowsprit shrouds.

3-Main jeer falls -provision must be made for these falls which belay to the deck below.

4-Under the foremost skid beam provide cleats for the foretopsail yard braces.

5-on the forward edge of the skid beam opening install 6" eybolts opposite each of the above mentioned cleats.

6-Main backstay stools-on the aft end of each main stay stool add two eyebolts.

7-Mizzen backstay stools-two eyebolts to be installed on the aft end of each stool.

8-install 2 eyebolts on each side of the stem.(exact position to be identified later)

9-Main bitt-seventeen belaying pins required however only six of these pins will be used for harbour rig.

10-Mizzen bitt-the crossbar carries six belaying pins but only five will be used.

11-Fore bitts-the foremost has nine belaying pins but none will be used.The rear most has seventeen belaying points but only 5 will be used.

Note that these bitts also contain sheaves embedded within the uprights.

12-there is a sheave at the outer tip of the jib boom,this sheave is for the jib traveller outhauler.

13-Bowsprit cap has six eyebolts of 6" diameter.On each of the long vertical sides of the cap there are two eyebolts,one right at the top and the other slightly more than half way down.The fifth eyebolt is located at the bottom of the front face of the cap.The last eyebolt is located at the center of the bottom rear face under the bowsprit.

14-Marine's walk -there are two eyebolts on the top of the marine's walk to take the after ends of the bowsprit horses.

To be cont.........
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #157 on: January 04, 2010, 04:33:34 PM »

Rigging Checklist Page 2.

15-Deck Rail Fittings-at eight points inside the deck rails there are the "kevels."From the bow their locations along each rail are:
-inboard of the fourth timber head,abreast the belfy
-at the break of the rail abreast the mainmast
-at the foot of the poopdeck ladders.

16-Snatch blocks ,one each side of the pooprails up against the sternboard and two more,one each side,right on the fore ends of the forecastle rails.

17-Belaying points fittings.Various cleats and eybolts are required about the deck.There position will be shown on my upcoming full belaying points diagram.Most all of the eyebolts are 6".

Masts and Yards.

18-Foremast cleats located between the second and third mastbands down from the cap.

19-At the foot of the foremast carries long cleats set vertically,one each side of the front rubbing strip with their lower ends just above the level of the lowest mastband.

20-Mainmast,same as the foremast.

21-Mizzenmast,a collar around the mast above the lowest mastband carrying four belaying pins.

22-Fore topmast, just below the cap is a cheek block on each side.

23-Topgallant masts,each of these has a collar above the lower cap,below each collar is a sheave.

24-Flying jib boom ,there is a sheave set in the outer tip of this boom.

25-Fore and main topsail yards.Horizontally placed snatch blocks are located on the after side of the ends of each of these yards.

26-Spritsail yard,Install a small strop in the center of the front side of this yard for the halyard.

to be cont........
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #158 on: January 04, 2010, 06:03:36 PM »

Important please note:
--------------------------
------------------------------
------------------------------------
If you are planing to put up staysails now would be the time to include their rigging.These sails are not often rigged by most modelers, so I won't confuse things by including them now.Later under sail rig I will do a limited description of the staysail rigging.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #159 on: January 05, 2010, 02:58:31 PM »

Rigging Checklist Page 3.

27-The Tops.
The rigging of the tops are handled differently by Hackney and Longridge.While Longridge's method seems to be the most popular method.(It is the one I used and is what is on the ship now)I will record both methods here.

Hackney calls for eleven single blocks under the foretop:

Foretop


4 -11"for the spritsail brace

4 -9" for the topsail brace

2- 8" foretopgallant braces

1- 7" knave line.

Two 9" single becket blocks are installed above the after end of the top.

Maintop

a single 7" becket block is installed just forward and underneath the center of the rear rim of the top.A 9" single becket block is also installed above the after end of the top.

Mizzen top

a 15" double block hangs under the center of the of the after crosswise support under the top,and a 6" single becket block is installed above the after end of the top.

to be cont......
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #160 on: January 05, 2010, 04:15:34 PM »

Rigging Checklist Page 4.

27 -The Tops cont......


I used the Longridge method of rigging the tops as I wanted to put up more rigging than just the essential harbor rig,for example leaches,bunts etc....

Longridge calls for the following:

The Fore Top

4-single 9" blocks for the spritsail topsail brace

8-double 11" blocks for the buntlines,the spritsail brace and the leech line.

There are two 8" single blocks at the after rim of this top tied to eyebolts.They are the leading blocks for the topgallant braces.A 7" knave line block is tied to the middle under the aft crosstree.

The Main Top

Only one pair of double blocks are needed under the main top.Four 10" single blocks are required for the leech lines.There are only six blocks under the main top as compared with twelve under the fore top.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #161 on: January 05, 2010, 04:27:16 PM »

oops...Almost forgot the Mizzen top.
A 15" double block hangs under the center of the after crosswise support under the top and a 6"single becket block is installed above the aft end of the top.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #162 on: January 05, 2010, 05:59:44 PM »

Rigging Checklist Page 5

28-Fore Channel eyebolts (all are 6") two at aft end of channel and one under the channel between the 2nd and 3rd deadeyes.

29-Main Channel eyebolts,one between the 9th and tenth deadeyes and another eyebolt at the aft end of the channel

30-Mizzen Channel eyebolts,
2 at the aft end of the starboard channel and one on the port.

My model has more eyebolts on the channels than is called for here as I decided to rig this area per Campbell's plans with the inner and outer tricing lines and fore yard tackle rigged to blocks in the channels.

31-Dolphin Striker, four sheaves (or holes) are set in outer end at one foot intervals from the tip.

32-Belfry supports,10" cleats are secured towards the top of the outer faces of the front legs of the two belfry supports.one on each.The cleats are angled forwards and upwards to take the fore topgallant braces.

33-Make sure that the tops have been drilled to take the crowsfeet rigging.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #163 on: January 05, 2010, 07:27:57 PM »

Short note on blocks.
Approximate number required

Harbor rig : 166 singles,40 doubles

Sail rig: 72 extra singles

Full sail rig including staysails: unknown at this time.

I made mine from boxwood and American cherry.I prefer working with the American cherry if the color is no problem.I was able to make the smallest blocks required at 1/72 scale, without any difficulty, with a sharp drill and a head optivisor.(magnifier)
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #164 on: January 05, 2010, 07:56:24 PM »

Step 53

Foreyard Jeer Falls

Tie two 26" double blocks to the lower yard,one each side,outside the slings.Tie two lengths of 7 1/2" rope to the yard inboard of these two blocks between them and the sling and lead the leading ends down through the holes in the uprights of the aftermost fore bitt and tie off above the crossbar.

Hack P70

Long P241
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #165 on: January 06, 2010, 01:25:52 AM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #166 on: January 06, 2010, 01:48:54 AM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #167 on: January 06, 2010, 04:00:05 PM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #168 on: January 06, 2010, 08:39:15 PM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #169 on: January 06, 2010, 09:04:48 PM »

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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #170 on: January 06, 2010, 09:33:08 PM »

Step 54

Fore Yard Truss Pendants

Along with the knave line this is a bit of complicated arrangement.Each tie around the yard carries both a small loop and a long running end. These long ends are each led around behind the mast,through one loop of the knave line strop,through the loop of the opposite yard tie,and down towards the deck with a double block tied in the end.A single becket block is tied to the relevent deck eyebolt.The blocks are connected in a luff tackle and the fall is tied off to a cleat on the fore side of the mast.The trusses are of 8" rope,the blocks 11" and the connecting lanyard is 3" rope.

Hack P70

Long P240 fig 171.this is an excelent diagram of this arrangement.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #171 on: January 06, 2010, 09:50:51 PM »

Step 55

Fore Knave Line

The truss pendants have been run through the loop ends of a short strop behind the mast.Tie a length of 2" rope to the center of the strop,lead it through the 7" block attached to the rear center of the fore top.

Hack P 70

Long P241
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #172 on: January 06, 2010, 11:51:48 PM »

Please note: It is around step 53 that the decision will have to be made as to how much rigging will be shown on the yards.Blocks for the bunts,leeches and clew lines are optional for harbor rig.I showed them on my model because I just like lots of rigging,I even put on the jewel blocks for the stunsail gear.Some of this could be put on later but I would recommend rigging the yards as completely as possible, now that they are easily accessible.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #173 on: January 07, 2010, 12:49:55 AM »


Step 56

The Slings

The lower end of the yard slings could also go on at this time.See page 240 figure 170 in Longridge,Hackney unfortunately shows the sling as one continuous rope which is incorrect.The sling is in two parts upper and lower with thimbles lashed together by a 3 1/2" laniard.
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JohnReid

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Re: Friggin' in the Riggin' HMS Victory
« Reply #174 on: January 07, 2010, 01:04:41 AM »

Step 57 (the slings cont...)

The upper part of the sling is made from 12" cable with an eye spliced in one end.It has a long leg and a short leg,the short leg has the spliced eye.T.It then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg.The long leg passes over the cap where is lies on a bolster and then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg and is seiezed there with three lashings.

Long P239 -40. Fig 170.
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