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[Koldness]

What types of paint is evrone using?  Will testors marine acryl work?  how about Tamiya paints? Im new s go ez on me...lol.

thanks Kris

[Shipmate60]

I am still using Humbrol or Halfords spray cans.

Bob

[DickyD]

I'm using Halfords Plasticote at the moment.

I used Tamiya acrylics on my Flower Class Corvette applied by brush because I didn't want to good a finish.

Richard :)

[chromedome]

I use Humbrol and Halford products.

chromedome

[uboatbuilder]

Hi i use humbrol and tamiya, humbrol in my opinion is the best for both airbrushing and hand brushing,

tamiya is ok but because its acrylic it discolours in water, so you will have to put an enamel clear cote over it (ive done it on my tamiya conversions using tamiya paint)

enamel can go over acrylic, but acrylic can't go over enamel ( ???dont ask me why 'cos if enamel "eats" acrylic it should do it either way its put on, but thats how it is ???)

Grant  :)

[Colin Bishop]

On re reading the announcement in MMI October issue of the new Humbrol Acrylic range, (since sadly postponed), it clearly states that they are completely compatible with the existing Humbrol enamels for both colour match and overcoating. I'm confused!  ::)

[cbr900]

A lot of Acrylic paints have changed their formulae and are now compatible with enamel, the paints I use in Aussie are made in the same factory and you can put enamel over acrylic or vice versa with no problems, so paints are becoming more compatible...


Roy

[White Ensign]

I prefer the Acryl colours from the spray-cans and use to seal them with satin varnish. For small fittings and items Humbrol is my first choice. The experiences I have made with Tamiya-colours are not the best as you need to buy a special thinner for them as well as their amount of pigments inside makes it necessary to spray a several times to get a good-looking colour. The more you spray, the more you will loose details, doing scale 1:100 nothing to be left out of mind.

There is also a manufacturer similar to Humbrol which does a very interesting range of special colours, it`s called "Modelmaster". Very good quality at a reasonable price.
Anyway- all colours need to be sealed with varnish.

Jörg

[chromedome]

What brand of varnish do you use,Jorg?



chromedome

[Shipmate60]

I use Ronseel Matcote.
Does exactly what it says on the tin, lol.

Bob

[cbr900]

I always use Wattyl Marine Varnish, works ok in the Aussie Sun...........


Roy

[DickyD]

I always use Wattyl Marine Varnish, works ok in the Aussie Sun...........


Roy

We don't have Aussie sun Roy and who on earth is Watty ?? ???

Richard

[cbr900]

I thought you would have had WATTYL brand paints over there........



Roy

[Patrik]

How do you airbrush with Humbrol  paint tincans ?  do you have to thin it out? or just put the paint in your brush and spray?

[dougal99]

Patrik

Humbrol enamel is too thick to spray straight from the tin. You need to thin it, I use enamel thinners 50:50, sometimes a little more. You are best, in my experience to use fresh paint, so make sure its not been lying around the retailer/workshop too long.

HTH

Cheers

Doug

[cbr900]

Make sure you stir the paint extremely well as the dryers settle on the bottom and it may take for ever to dry....




Roy

[FullLeatherJacket]

My experience with airbrushing Humbrol is that it varies a helluvalot with the colour. For example, I've found that Coal Black is like tar and needs at least 50/50 thinning whereas Satin White is like milk and sprays straight from the can -  in fact it's so thin that brushing it was a waste of time because it wouldn't cover properly.

I think the best advice I can offer is to try it with different amounts of thinners before you point it at anything important. 70/30 paint/thinners is as good a place to start as any 'cos you can always dilute it a bit more if necessary.

Roy is right about stirring it thoroughly; also follow the little diagram on the tin and shake it for 30 seconds as well.

BTW I use Badger airbrushes (150, 250-1 and 250-4) and a Machine Mart "Clarke Bronco" compressor, and I always clean the airbrush immediately after every spraying - I find it almost therapeutic.........but suit yourself 

[Colin Bishop]

My experience with airbrushing Humbrol is that it varies a helluvalot with the colour.

Quite agree there! However, in order to airbrush I assume you need to have the liquid in a certain viscosity range (degree of runniness!). Is there any easy way to measure this or does it just come with experience?

[FullLeatherJacket]

Admiral B
My own method is trial and error, but there was some mention on the old MB forum of spraying a little paint onto a hand-mirror to judge the degree of runniness. I can't remember who posted it or what the rules were, although "single cream" seems to rattle a few brain cells (that's in the rules, not the name of the guy!).
Maybe someone else can help?

[barriew]

Try to get some Revell Airbrush Enamel - I find it very good in itself, but it gives you a good idea of the consistency required for an airbrush. It seems completely different to the tins of brushing enamel from Revell, which I find have the consistency of treacle!

Barrie

[dougal99]

Colin,

Most of the books on the subject that I've read talk about the consistency of milk (no mention of full, semi or skimmed  ) however, I think/find that it needs to be a little thinner than that. I think FLJ is right about trial and error, I have several surfaces in the workshop sprayed a variety of colours as a result of various attempts to get the right mix (always said I was and ageing hippy  ).

Doug

[Colin Bishop]

I bought an airbrush some years ago but have never used it having been content to rely on a combination of spray cans and various brushing paints. The cleaning out process puts me off. FLJ's comments on the thickness of paint as supplied struck a chord as you never seem to quite know when you open a tin how thick it will be or the degree of covering power. This seems to apply to acrylics as well as enamels. Presumably it's something to do with the nature of the pigments?

[dougal99]

FLJ's comments on the thickness of paint as supplied struck a chord as you never seem to quite know when you open a tin how thick it will be or the degree of covering power. This seems to apply to acrylics as well as enamels. Presumably it's something to do with the nature of the pigments?

Yes, I've found red and white (acrylic and enamel, the latter less so) to be capable of a certain amount of colour but seem to have no effect after 3-4 coats. I thought it was me being picky.  ???

Doug

[DickyD]

Tamiya acrylic gloss has far less covering power than the acrylic matt whereas the silk finish is somewhere between the two.

Richard

[FullLeatherJacket]

Having just about finished a prolonged episode of domestic painting I've twigged that undercoat (matt) is mainly pigment and not much resin whereas gloss is the other way around. I imagine Satin is halfway in between - logically. Probably the same rule applies to all paints.
BTW If it's of any use to fellow decorating sufferers, Dulux Trade is brilliant stuff to use; expensive compared with DIY store stuff but what a difference to apply!
Colin
Cleaning an airbrush is dead easy. Spray mucky thinners through until it clears, then spray clean thinners, inverting the airbrush to clear the pickup tube. If it's a brush with external mix, then unscrew the nozzle and spring and chuck the whole lot into a jar of clean thinnners. Swirl it around, then take it out and dry it. Takes longer to describe than do. Once in a while, strip down the brush and run a pipe cleaner soaked in thinners through it. If it has a needle, take that out carefully and clean it with an ink-eraser rubber. One thing you MUST NOT DO is leave any part to soak in thinners. It can (and probably will) swell the rubber O ring seal and b****r up your brush.
Suit yourself...........but you knew I'd say that anyway.