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Author Topic: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.  (Read 4938 times)

RickF

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Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« on: December 07, 2006, 08:11:54 PM »

Can anyone recommend a good adhesive to glue plasticard to a non-plastic hull. I have done a search of the forum and people have recommended Stablit Express  - but others say it's expensive, messy and sets too quickly. Others use some sort of Araldite.

I need to apply the dummy plating to my torpedo boat - ten thou plasticard, so no resistance to anything in the way of solvents and a fairly large area of work. I was going to use an Evostick product, but it melts plastic!

Anyone any ideas?

Rick
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Faraday's Cage

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2006, 08:58:48 PM »

Hi Rick,

Have you tried the new Evo-Stick product called Serious Glue.  Unlike contact adheshive it doesnt attack plastic.
Stays slightly flexible. Waterproof. Dries clear. Re-positionable for 20 mins. Fully set in 2 hours. Full strength in 24 hrs. It looks a bit like clear silicon as it comes out of the tube.

It costs around 5 a tube but I've been using it to finish off my lastest project mainly for sticking a round plastic rail on the top of gunwails which are part of a fibreglass hull.

Wished I had discovered it before using contact adhesive on my gunwhale linings which were plasticard. Lots of filling and sanding which was a pain !

Terry.
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J.beazley

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2006, 09:16:15 PM »

the only thing i can think of is humbrol poly cement.

i used the poly cement to stick the plywood deck to the plasti-card insert on the deck of my Schutze.

Jay
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John W E

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2006, 09:28:12 PM »

hi RickF

Have you thought of superglue - Ive used superglue on several occasions to glue, plasticard to GRP coated hulls.Up to today, none of the plates have come off - however, after I have finished plating the hull, I give the plating several coats of undercoat first to seal every joint - normally with the Humbrol paint lightly rubbed back and then finished coat of the chosen colour.   I prefer to use Humbrol or White Ensign paints - then, overspray with satin varnish, again, from Humbrol.  This seals the hull well - UPTODAY IT HAS - and one of the hulls has been knocking around for 12-14 years. 

The only problems with using superglue in such a vast quantity over an area is it must be done in a really well ventilated room - make sure it is ventilated - just as an afterthought sometimes if you use too much superglue it attacks the plasticard & it gives the appearance of rust (well it has on mine) like a fine crinkly surface which, depending on the hull you are building adds to the character.

Hope this is of some use.

Aye
John E
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Shipmate60

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2006, 11:03:32 PM »

Do the plates have to be plasticard.
I use normal copier paper soaked in pva glue, allow to set and coat the whole outside of the hull with pva.
Yes pva is water solvent, but when painted is fine as some models over 10 yrs old will testify.

Bob
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RickF

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2006, 12:18:55 AM »

Thanks guys - a lot of useful information there.

Rick
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cbr900

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2006, 01:19:54 AM »

Ridk,

I use cyano with the accelerator and it is dry instantly and has never come unstuck and the accelerator also makes cyano waterproff.....
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TCC

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2009, 09:21:43 AM »

Do the plates have to be plasticard.
I use normal copier paper soaked in pva glue, allow to set and coat the whole outside of the hull with pva.
Yes pva is water solvent, but when painted is fine as some models over 10 yrs old will testify.

Bob

Bob, do your hull plates show enough definition when painted?

I'm toying with the idea of plating my hull but I'm thinking of going with some sort of thick foil, I'm eshwing plasticard or litho plate as it's too thick and 'heavy' looking.

However, what's putting me off the foil is the bending it around the curves and it just being generally a harder thing to work with (foil & evo-stick) than paper & PVA.
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Shipmate60

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2009, 10:40:06 AM »

TCC,
Yes they do and the thickness is close to scale.
The paper moulds itself to the next plate so no gaps.
I think Bluebird also used this method on one of his Masterclass Builds.

Bob
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Niall

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2009, 11:37:23 AM »

Another alternative is to put several brush loads of polystyrene liquid cement on a piece of thick plasticard and leave it for a few seconds. The liquid cement will dissolve the plastic; scrape up this plastic solution and spread it on the wood. Leave to dry and sand smooth. You now have a plastic surface to stick the plasticard to.
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Bryan Young

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Re: Glueing Plasticard to non-plastic.
« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2009, 05:31:41 PM »

Thought of using double-sided tape? Plasticard to 2mm ply works a treat. Better than superglue, no mess, waterproof and just about everything-else proof. Speeds up construction immensely. The only drawbacks I have found:
1. Never ever use a bandsaw on materials that have been joined with this stuff.
2. Have a goodly supply of scalpel blades to hand.
Although the tape sticks like the proverbial to whatever needs sticking, it will also leave an impossible to remove residue on blades. Not immediately, but you will need to change blades more often. As far as the band-saw is concerned the sticky stuff will cause 2 problems. First it will clog the blade which will then adhere to the rubber tyres on the saw wheels. Result is that a new blade and new rubber tyres will be needed! One learns from experience! But as a modelling aid for sticking sheets of whatever to anything else it's in a Premier League of its own. At least experiment with it. Cheers. BY.
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