Topic: Simple water tube boiler. (Read 5942 times)

Hammer · « **on:** January 07, 2010, 08:51:56 pm »

This is my answer to the problem of a boiler at a reasonable cost and relative easy construction. I did a build thread on another site. If anyone would like I could post here. The photo shows the boiler with out the case. Hammer

gondolier88 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2010, 08:54:17 pm »

Hi Hammer,

Welcome to the forum.

What pressure is it rated to?
How does the water get a decent circulation?
Gas fired?

Greg

Hammer · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2010, 10:00:37 pm »

Greg, Yes gas fired, as the end of lower tubes nearest burner get hotter than the other end it creates the circulation, I think, well it does work. I am limiting the pressure to 30lbs. Although with a safety factor of 8 the calculations say 200lbs to be safe, as the tubes are only 1" diameter. Hammer.

gondolier88 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2010, 10:42:15 pm »

What are you going to run with it then...?

Greg

Hammer · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2010, 08:47:27 pm »

Greg. My own design double acting twin oscillator. Here is the setup. Destined for a paddle steamer. Duke of Devonshire (my own plans) I can't take credit for the original. This was a Mr Wedge back in the 1920 or 1930.

boatmadman · « **Reply #5 on:** January 08, 2010, 08:51:25 pm »

Interesting boiler, I would like to see the build details for this.

Ian

gondolier88 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 08, 2010, 08:58:52 pm »

Thats a simple and well built setup, it'll be perfect for a PS, have you started the boat yet?

May I make a suggestion- make that flue at least 50% bigger- that one will be too small.

Greg

tobyker · « **Reply #7 on:** January 08, 2010, 11:31:19 pm »

madman, see page 36, "Model boilers & boilermaking" by K N Harris published 1967 and 4 further impressions MAP Ltd. The "wedge multidrum, invented by the late Harry Wedge. Needs a continuous feed - suitable for pressures up to 120 psi. Can scan and post if desired.

Hammer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2010, 08:47:49 am »

That's the one tobyker. Hammer

Hammer · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2010, 08:50:22 am »

Quick run through for you Ian. Cut the ends square follow the tape. more later. Hammer

gondolier88 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2010, 09:54:09 am »

Alternatively, for pipe diameters less than 28mm a pipe cutter can be used which will give a perfect cut in half the time.

Is that a Mamod burner I see in the background...?

Greg

Hammer · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2010, 07:52:25 pm »

No mamod no pipe cuter big enough. Well I do have a cutter able to cut iron pipe of 1" plus but the wheels are to thick for copper, and to blunt. There is a snag with the chimney I will do as you say as best as I can. See the Duke.

Hammer · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2010, 08:01:33 pm »

Ian I'll try again Photos to big. The holes have to be marked and drilled accurately (very). I uesed the carrage on the lathe with home made tool post center punch. THen center drill in the vertical slide. Before drilling with progressivly larger bits untill the jointing tube fits.

Hammer · « **Reply #13 on:** January 09, 2010, 09:17:53 pm »

Greg, Progress on the Duke. Hammer

gondolier88 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 09, 2010, 09:25:30 pm »

That's a lovely PS you've got there- what length is your model?

Greg

Hammer · « **Reply #15 on:** January 10, 2010, 03:12:39 pm »

Greg, The ship is 175ft between perpendicular, plus 9ft for the overhang at the stern. At 3/8=1ft = 69 inches. The plan is to split her in half just astern of the paddle shaft along under the sponson then up the access door in the bulwarks. The engine will be in a box still attached to the bow section. All of the super structure will be removable. Constructed of balsa on ply frames impregnated with resin and covered with plates made from aluminium drinks can. Below my model of the Glen Usk built 2001 using the same method still going strong.
The max size of the for the boiler funnel will have to be 1.25" to fit inside the model funnel, Do you think this will be large enough. Hammer

Hammer · « **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2010, 03:37:09 pm »

Ian, The bushes of bronze drilled and tapped in the lathe. Then silver soldered in to the end caps. I perchased the gauges and had a dry run asembly. The burner end also has the sight gauge and pressure gauge and a blowdown valve. The other end has the steam out with stop valve, blowdown valve and clack valve. (water feed). I don't have any pictuers of the final silver soldering (silver flow 55) taking place, not enough hands.

gondolier88 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 10, 2010, 04:06:59 pm »

Hi Hammer,

Glen Usk is a beautiful boat- steam powered too?

1.25" should be enough- what is the current one- 22mm?

Do you use MAPP gas too to solder- how do you find it?

Greg

boatmadman · « **Reply #18 on:** January 10, 2010, 04:46:13 pm »

Thanks Hammer, very interesting boiler. What did you use to cap the ends of the tubes?

Ian

gondolier88 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 10, 2010, 06:32:36 pm »

28mm end-feed caps- standard plumbing fitting. I presume...?

Greg

Hammer · « **Reply #20 on:** January 10, 2010, 07:48:55 pm »

Greg, Chedder plant in Glen Usk. MAPP gas fine. Me son is a refrigeration engineer he has a oxy- gas plant but I couldn't wait for him to come in. The end caps and pipe are for refrigeration thicker than domestic, caps cut in half in lathe. Although good quality domestic pipe at this diameter, calculations show it would be OK.

Hammer · « **Reply #21 on:** January 12, 2010, 09:42:05 pm »

Ian, The case was made from a gallon oil can and a piece from the back of a washing machine. Then lined with bits of thermalight building block. and the burner from a chromed brass towel rail.Still playing with the jets when pictuer taken. Hammer

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