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Author Topic: Suppressed Tug motors  (Read 2632 times)

Bluechrisp

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Suppressed Tug motors
« on: March 05, 2010, 09:51:39 PM »

Hello all,

I hope someone can point me in the right direction, I am looking for a Hi torque suppressed motor for my 29" tug, on a 12V something around 3000 to 4000 rpm.

 I tried to suppress a motor my self, but went all wrong ...... any help would be ideal.  :-))

thanks

Chris
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andywright

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2010, 11:22:09 AM »

Try Mobile Marine models, they do a small and a large motor, , touch wood I have never bothered with supressors unless they are allready fitted, some day I may come unstuck, but upto now never had a problem. The better made motors seem OK, unless they allready have suppressors built in.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2010, 04:50:21 PM »

How did it go wrong? Bits of motor melted, suppression components broken, bits fell off?
I just turned up a Graupner instruction addendum about their motors, first paragraph follows -

Quote
"
WARNING
This electric motor must not be useduntil it has been proerly suppressed.  The suppressors are supplied and should be fitted as described below.  An operation without this supression, not even by way of attempt, is NOT allowed"/quote]
It goes on to mention such things as using the correct grade of solder, sanding the joint surface of the motor case, using an adequate iron and keeping the component legs short.  It also says that it may not be sufficient for RC model operation,  "but fulfils prescriptions by low", which may have gained something in translation.
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Corposant

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2010, 09:32:56 PM »

I think the key phrase in Malcolm's reply is "using an adequate iron". I have two soldering irons. One is a temperature controlled 50 watt jobbie which struggles on a motor casing. It takes an age for the solder to melt, by which time everything has got worryingly hot. The other iron is a 120 watt Weller. It's not temperature controlled, takes about ten minutes to heat up and, size wise, is a bit of a monster but, for soldering capacitors on etc., the solder flows within a second or so and the heating is very localised.

Hope this helps.

Mike
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Bluechrisp

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2010, 09:31:41 PM »

Hi,

Thank you for the top tips, that would explain some of the problems I have had...ie the iron and the lack of attachment to the casing  %). I shall try again.  :-))

thank you

ChrisP
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FullLeatherJacket

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2010, 10:32:03 PM »

I hope someone can point me in the right direction, I am looking for a Hi torque suppressed motor for my 29" tug, on a 12V something around 3000 to 4000 rpm.

MMB755 or Mabuchi 555 on 12v will do nicely. Get one from us and I'll solder the RFI caps on for you.

FLJ
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Bluechrisp

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2010, 01:16:29 PM »

Hello FLJ

Sorry for the delay in replying, I've had alook around I have seen afew bits and pieces for another larger tug or working boat from your site.  O0 Do you or have you sold the Dark Horse motors?

Cheers

Chris P
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FullLeatherJacket

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2010, 01:46:41 PM »

PM sent.
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Peterm

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2010, 02:30:24 PM »

Came in a bit late on this one, but I use a 40 Watt iron, having first rubbed the casing where I want to solder, with some emery cloth.   Problem solved.  Pete M
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Bluechrisp

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2010, 03:08:59 PM »

Came in a bit late on this one, but I use a 40 Watt iron, having first rubbed the casing where I want to solder, with some emery cloth.   Problem solved.  Pete M

Never to late...  :-) As I progress with this model boat building, I seem to be collecting more and more tools, and now a adjustable iron! this should be ok for copper and brass work ie silver solder.
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John W E

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Re: Suppressed Tug motors
« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2010, 10:02:05 AM »

Hi there – I know this is rather a bit late but here is a method which I have used in the past for securing the suppression capacitors onto the casings of a motor which was awkward to solder too.  On normal 555 canned-case motors there is the facility on the front end of the motor for securing it to a motor mounting plate.  These are normally tapped holes of 3-4 mm, depending on the size of the motor.  I secured a short length of bare copper wire, via a mounting screw into one of these holes which I used for locating the motor.  Then, to the free end of the copper wire I soldered the 2 legs of the capacitors – I then soldered the opposite ends of the capacitor legs to the motor terminals on the back end.  This does away with the needs of trying to generate great heat for soldering on the casings of the motor.   
I am attaching 2 photographs of the last tug I have built MSC ARCHER, which is approximately 22 inches long but has an FLJ’s ACTion 555 motor inside it.   It runs on 7.2 volts, driving a 50mm brass prop.  At full pelt it has a tendency to ‘bury the bow’ on the bow wave.   On 12 volts it is extremely fast !!!!!
They are a good little motor and on 7.2 volts she is only drawing approximately 2.5 amps or even less.
Hope this is of some help – aye
John e
Bluebird
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