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[toptugger]

gentlemen,

Could i get some advice please about using paints.

i want to use Halfords car aerosol paints to do the hull painting, is this a good idea? I'm also not sure about a laquer coat over the top once the decals are on, can i use the compatible car laquer without it going yellow.

I plan to weather the model once painted, which will take quite some time. Will i be ok sailing it without the laquer coat until the weathering is finished.

Once the top coat is on i need to reduce the gloss finish, i've heard that rubbing with fine wire wool or wet, 1200 wet and dry is good, do you agree?

[DickyD]

Halfords aerosols are fine.

Lot of chaps use Ronseal satin finish, no need to rub down gloss paint.

Can not advise on spray laquer as I dont know which ones yellow, but can say use compatible laquer.

You can sail your boat without laquer, how many cars have laquer finish ?

[knoby]

Hi Toptugger,  Halfords spray cans are fine as Dickyd said. Their lacquer does have a slight yellow tint but it only really shows over white. & personally I feel thats not a bad thing as it takes away some of the crispness of the colour making it look a little more realistic.  Although I cant comment on the amount the lacquer yellows up over long periods.

I would stay away from rubbing it down with wire wool as this will scratch it too deeply for a great finish, you may find that 2000 or even 3000 grit wet & dry will give a much more acceptable matt finish

The ronseal satin finish is probably a better way, the exterior type giving a better performance. Don't use the water based one as this isn't 100% waterproof & will milk up if submerged in water for any period of time.

As you intend to over lacquer the paint finish after you have weathered it, you will have to think about how to key up the colour in order to give the lacquer a good grip. you  don't want to rub off all your weathering detail once its finished. It is possible to lacquer over 1200 grit of finer scratches without them showing through. There is no problem with sailing the boat with just coloured paint on it, even if you have flatted it down with fine wet & dry.

Just as an aside, all modern cars have a lacquer finish !!!

Cheers Glenn.

[Colin Bishop]

Agree with the above except that my view is that the interior polyurethane Ronseal is fine unless you are going to leave your boat in direct sunshine all the time. The exterior version is essentially the same but does include UV filters which can give a yellowish tint over white.

Halfords spray clear laquer is intended to enhance a gloss base finish so satin Ronseal is a much better bet. I just brush it on but some people prefer to thin it down a bit and use an airbrush. It is good stuff though and a brush still gives a pretty acceptable finish which is very durable.

Polyurethane varnish is becoming harder to find due to the solvents it contains so stock up if you can. Ronseal is probably the best but Blackfriars is good too and Wilkinsons do their own cheaper brand which is essentially comparable.

Colin

[red181]

Hi, what boat is it you are painting? I had a few problems with halfords primer, they only like halfords paint over them, for some reason, its been mentioned before

depending on what finish you require, you could also brush finish?

Orca is all brush painted, Huntsman is aerosol, I always use plasticote, I use 600, then 1000, then 1500 wet and dry, on final coat, I just then use a car bodyshop finishing paste to polish up, then a creamy polish with a little cut in it, then a wax, no need to laquer if the finish is good enough  

[soldier151]

 )Hi Guys, just read the post.  I'm in the process of restoring a wooden Aerokits Waveney Lifeboat, so far stripped down hull to bare wood .  What do I do next, I realize that I have to fill in any dents, holes with filler.  I would like a finish as smooth as a baby's B..  The most important bit I don't want the planks to show through.  Any help you can give will be most welcome, p.s. don;t have an airbrush, so will use car sprays/hycote etc.  Plus any ideas on what colours needed?
Soldier151

[Drkomen86]

Plastikote crystal sattin lacqure from B&Q, its only about £6 a tin and gives a smooth and hard wearing finish.
they also sell it in gloss or matt.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-44-12148-97915-plastikote-super-clear-acrylic-satin-1139.asp

[derekwarner]

Soldier151....you have answered most of your own questions

1. you will use filler where necceasry
2. you will use undercoat as neccessary........

So with care & a lot of both the above combined with ......1200 W&D or 2400 W&D + plenty of water will afford a great smooth surface for top coat...good luck ....Derek

[Bunkerbarge]

You first of all need to see what you are dealing with and with bare wood, especially planked, you can't do that.  First job then is a coat of sanding sealer.  I would thin the first coat down slightly to help it soak into the wood, then paint it on with a brush.  You should then be able to see what you are up against and from now on it's a case of filling, rubbing down and another coat of primer on top.  You should use a fine wet and dry for rubbing down and as much as possible use a sanding block rather than hold the paper in your fingers otherwise it will follow the undulations you are trying to remove.

When you think you have got a perfect finish do a very light dusting with a matt black primer and again a gentle rub down with wet and dry on a block.  Any slight imperfections will now be highlighted and you know exactly where you need a bit more filler or work.  Finally a last coat of primer then a rub down with wet and dry in your fingers, which should be now be for nothing more than breaking the surface of the primer..  Then you are ready for top coats.