Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Frederick Spashett  (Read 3031 times)

yorkie1

  • Guest
Frederick Spashett
« on: June 08, 2010, 10:06:53 AM »

I have just made a start on the Frederick Spashett but all the frames I have cut are 1/2 an inch short on height,the width is ok and I traced all the frames out separately and made my cut on the waterline on each drawing,what have I done wrong,I know on this site there will be many people who can help me out,a novice who should have stuck to making paper aeroplanes
Logged

DickyD

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,497
  • www.srcmbc.org.uk
  • Location: Southampton UK
    • SRCMBC
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2010, 10:27:37 AM »

John [Bluebird]    did a very good Master Class Build on this model. Check it out.

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=13888.0
Logged
Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

yorkie1

  • Guest
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2010, 11:28:42 AM »

Hi Dicky.
That is the masterclass I am following but somewere along the line I have made a basic error but I dont know where.
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2010, 01:23:22 PM »

Hi yorkie1
have you scaled the drawing up ? if so how ?

aye
john e
Logged

yorkie1

  • Guest
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2010, 10:18:02 AM »

Hi Bluebird.
I hope I can explain this clearly,the plans I recived where 1:48 and I had them enlarged to 1:32 so now I have an overall lenght of 30" and a beam of 7 1/4"  I think this is about right but I think I may be cutting the deck line wrong, I am cutting each frame where it bicects the deck line,so say from frame 6 whitch bicects the deck line first, to frame 9 1/2 I have a differance of about 1 1/4" hope you can put me right.
ps I whent to a printers to have the plans enlarged
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2010, 07:06:10 PM »

Hi ya there Yorkie 1
I have been trying to work out what you mean by dissecting at deck level.  Each frame should be cut so that it follows the curvature of the deck – so in actual fact each frame should form part of the deck and it should have a ‘flowing sweep from stem to stern’ granted you will get a bit of mis-match height but only by about 1/8 of an inch.
I have dug out the set of plans which were in the model boats magazine and I have enlarged them and realised that the numbering of the frames are incorrect on the plan.  On the body view they begin:

A and D – at the stern
A is actually O
D is the half frame

What you should do is to trace these frames out and check them against the side profile plan to ensure that the heights all match in the correct place – so for arguments sake frame 6 on the body plan should be the same height on the side plan.
Hope this is of some help, but, if not you just have to ask.
We will see what we can sort out.
Aye
john
Logged

yorkie1

  • Guest
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2010, 10:50:56 AM »

Hi Bluebird.
Thanks for that,I have now taken all measurements from the elevation plan and everything seems allright I also downloaded some of your photos for reference.
Thanks Ray
Logged

yorkie1

  • Guest
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2010, 09:44:49 AM »

Hi Bluebird.
A bit more help if you can,

 I have uploaded a photo to help explain,I bought a 4mm x 200mm (8" in old money) prop shaft but it extends past frame three but the one in the master class finishes between frames 2 and three and it only has threads at one end do I need to change it or will it be allright to carry on with this one,I would hate to set it in place and then find out it was going to give me problems later, the overall length of my keel is 30"
Regards Ray
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2010, 10:16:37 AM »

hi ya there Ray

I think you have reached a point now, where you need to decide what motor you are going to power this model with.   Are you going to go with the same power unit as in the build I did?  or, are you going to direct drive this?

1.   MFA have stopped producing the belt-drive gearbox which I have used - but - I do know there are still several available from MFA commo drills.   The item number for the gearbox (without motor) is 1092/4.   Their contact telephone number is 0130 461 2132.

Failing this, if they have none left in stock - there is a model shop which is called Phills Model shop (they have a website) they are based in North Tyneside (North Shields) and have a few in stock.   With this belt-drive gearbox, it would be adviseable for you to shorten the length of your prop-shaft tube - to say, about 6 inches in length.   Doing this will give you a bit extra space inside the hull for batteries etc.

2.   The next option you have is to use direct drive.  Here you would have to source a favourable motor, for the size of prop (I think the prop is approximately 40-45 mm diameter) x 3 blade.    FLJ (ACTion) sell / may still sell a 12 volt motor - classed as a 555 motor, which is physically the same as a 540 motor in size - about 33 mm diameter by about 56 mm long.  This would be ample to power this model.

As I say, it is classed as a 12 volt motor, I think 12 volts driving a 40 mm prop, would give you a 'very-over-scaled' top-end speed.   But, that is why we have speed controllers - plenty power in reserve.

The thing though with using direct-drive is that you will have to check the clearance between the centre of your prop shaft to the top of the keel this will ensure you have enough clearance to fit the motor, without it fouling anywhere.   Also, do not forget one has to allow for fitting a coupling between your motor and prop shaft.

So. basically, before you fit the prop shaft, decide how you are going to power the model.

Another thought with regard to motors, when Billy Ruffin built the Cervia Tug, he used the motor from (I believe it may have been Model Motors) it would be a good idea to send Billy a personal message to find out what motors he used for his model, as the Cervia Tug is basically the same size.

Billy Ruffin is known as Cyril on this forum.  :D

Hope this helps.

Aye

John
Bluebird.
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2010, 11:17:57 AM »

Logged

DickyD

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,497
  • www.srcmbc.org.uk
  • Location: Southampton UK
    • SRCMBC
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2010, 11:19:20 AM »


Billy Ruffin is known as Cyril on this forum.  :D

Hope this helps.

Aye

John
Bluebird.
No he's not, Cyril [ real name ] is known as Billyruffian on this forum
Logged
Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2010, 11:27:55 AM »

got ya talking Dicky  :-)) :-))

thanks mate, couldnt think there for a min

john
Logged

DickyD

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,497
  • www.srcmbc.org.uk
  • Location: Southampton UK
    • SRCMBC
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #12 on: June 11, 2010, 11:31:00 AM »

Didn't like to pick you up on that John but we do have a Cyril on the forum as well and I thought it might be a bit confusing. ok2
Logged
Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

yorkie1

  • Guest
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #13 on: June 11, 2010, 12:48:13 PM »

Thanks for that John,this being my first major build I would prefer to go with your master class because then I have allways got a reference point so I will shop around for a gear box first and if I don't have any luck I will go with plan B,as for the prop shaft does it matter about being threaded at both ends.

regards Ray
Logged

DickyD

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,497
  • www.srcmbc.org.uk
  • Location: Southampton UK
    • SRCMBC
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #14 on: June 11, 2010, 03:16:00 PM »

It doesn't matter that it is threaded both ends as all it means is, you will have to get a threaded coupling. :-))
Logged
Richard Solent Radio Controlled Model Boat Club http://www.srcmbc.org.uk

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,508
  • Location: South shields
Re: Frederick Spashett
« Reply #15 on: June 12, 2010, 09:43:20 AM »

hi there as Dicky says, it doesn't really matter if the prop shaft is threaded at both ends, but also as Dicky says you will need to get a threaded coupling to match

Having said that, on a personal note, I have found on several occasions that the thread has been machined 'off line' on one end of these shafts, thus causing mis-alignment.  This is not too bad if you use the threaded end on the propeller end.  It causes a lot of problems though if it is used on the coupling side, cos it causes mis-alignment and it is a right pain in the perverbials to put right.

I do find that a plain coupling and plain ended shaft are a lot easier and a lot less likely to be mis-aligned.   I have even found this fault on very expensive prop shafts.

If you have a look at the Cervia build, you will find there are clearer pictures of this belt-drive gear box and assembly than there are on the Spashett build.

aye
john e
bluebird

haha on a note for Martin when I spell check Spashett - spaghetti comes up and belt-drive comes out as bullet proof - so bullet proof spaghetti for tea.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up