Model Boat Mayhem - Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4   Go Down

Author Topic: TT Victoria  (Read 14884 times)

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,004
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #25 on: September 22, 2010, 01:43:31 AM »

Recommend Futaba S3305 if you sail in light winds only or the S3802 for strong winds but beware, sail servos are not cheap.

The Hitec range are cheaper than the futaba, but I am not familiar with them.

Please note that sail servos are bigger than  standard servos. The Futabe S 3305 is almost the same size as a standard servo in plan view, but taller. The F S3802 is almost the same size (plan wise about 2mm longer), and much taller. But it will fit in the radio tray niceley. Try to get one that is almost the same size in plan view.

You do need a sail servo though. A standard servo is not strong enough. If it gets a bit windy where you plan to sail I would also recommend getting a higher torque servo, perhaps a minimum of 9kg of torque

http://alshobbies.com/ has a list of servos, and lists thier dimensions.

I have not connection with als hobbies, but I am a happy customer.
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #26 on: September 22, 2010, 05:10:04 PM »

Thanks Tiger.... The S3055 is recommended for EP cars only by Futaba....and has a reputation for giving trouble.. I have ordered a 3802..
Logged

Islander1951

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #27 on: September 22, 2010, 05:16:01 PM »

I use a Hitec HS-645MG in my Victoria, and am happy to recommend it.

Metal gears, dual ball bearings, 7.7kg/cm at 4.8v; 9.6kg/cm at 6v.

Not cheap at about 30, but if that's a  problem then Howes are selling cheap high torque metal gear servos
for about half that.   O0

Edward.
Logged

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #28 on: September 27, 2010, 06:44:07 PM »

No Futaba 3802 around so I got a HiTec Hs 645MG.

As I'm using a Planet T5, I am going to run the Rx on 6V...I have be told the rudder servo, a Futaba S148, is ok on 6V, and a online spec put out in the USA seems to confirm that...

I am just finishing building the stand at the moment...The joys of sanding sealer  ;).... I haven't used it in years... even on my toy airplanes..."Sandpaper" clogs just thinking about it :}
Logged

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #29 on: October 03, 2010, 04:24:10 PM »

I have finally finished my radio box, I wonder if the sail arm line will snag the rx or the servo plugs ?

The flat on the rudder shaft is way off... any ideas apart from filing it..Keel blade is too tight a fit in the hull.... so more filing required  <:(
Logged

Martin [Admin]

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 18,982
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #30 on: October 03, 2010, 04:47:12 PM »

I stuck my radio box in with big blobs of  "clear" silicon sealant.
It held it very firmly and i was able to remove it, for a refit, with too much trouble.
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!"    -   Mayhem FaceBook Group!

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #31 on: October 03, 2010, 05:32:29 PM »

I stuck my radio box in with big blobs of  "clear" silicon sealant.
It held it very firmly and i was able to remove it, for a refit, with too much trouble.


Martin..I'm not sure what I'm going to glue mine in with..what do you think of my efforts ?.... Do you think the sail arm rigging will snag the RX? I had to mount it as high as possible as I didn't want any problem with range on the 2.4g Rx.

Did you have any problems with the rudder arm "flat" position..
 
Logged

malcolmfrary

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5,551
  • Location: Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #32 on: October 03, 2010, 08:18:02 PM »

Quote
Do you think the sail arm rigging will snag the RX?
Just arrange a sellotape cover, then theres no pointy bits to snag on.  Otherwise, if it is possible to snag, it will.  Its a tradition, or an ancient charter.
The box on mine was originally epoxied in place, and shortly after replacing the totally inadequate standard servo with one of the high torque offerings from Howes, dismounted itself.  I refixed it using evo-stick blue "grab" adhesive.  No further problems.
Logged
"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Martin [Admin]

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 18,982
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #33 on: October 03, 2010, 09:29:04 PM »

Martin..I'm not sure what I'm going to glue mine in with..what do you think of my efforts ?.... Do you think the sail arm rigging will snag the RX? I had to mount it as high as possible as I didn't want any problem with range on the 2.4g Rx.

Did you have any problems with the rudder arm "flat" position..
 

Build looks very neat Dekan !   :-))
Yes, as Malc says, wrap up the rest of the radio box to prevent snagging.
 Another way apart from selotape. would be an oval sheet of clear, thin plastic with two cut-outs for the servos to poke through,
  allow a good 2 inches to overhang the radio box as there is plenty of room in the hull.


Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!"    -   Mayhem FaceBook Group!

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #34 on: October 03, 2010, 10:35:37 PM »

Thanks Malc,The plate idea sounds good Martin, I have checked the keel and rudder alignment,That seems ok.

I managed to turn the Rudder shaft.. I don't know how I'm going to stop it wandering back though :} ..I have never heard of Evo-Stick Blue...

Lots more building than I first thought... I thought it would be bosh bosh.... screw done!!! ok2
Logged

malcolmfrary

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5,551
  • Location: Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #35 on: October 04, 2010, 10:48:21 AM »

The good thing about the grab adhesive is that it sticks almost anything to almost anything else.  The bad thing it that it does this whether you want it to or not, also, it comes in a large dispenser, being intended for the building trade and found in the adhesive section of most hardware stores.  Also, its BLUE so is only suitable for out of sight joins.
Shaft waggling in rudder - allowing thin superglue to run down into the rudder might do the job.  An alternative might be to, having aligned it properly, carefully drill a 1.5mm or thereabouts hole through the rudder and shaft, and poke a length of brass wire of matching diameter through, glueing in place and smoothing off.  I haven't had the problem,so I'm only guessing.
Logged
"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #36 on: October 04, 2010, 04:14:14 PM »

Thanks for the info Malc.. I have spent the morning making a keel bearing spreader plate.I glued it in place with Uhu plus Acrylit glue, I have never used it before, it seemed to work ok.    I'm not sure about fitting the compression struts... lots of people don't seem to bother..

I have just finished gluing the lower part of the keel bearing tube in place with 1hr epoxy. I will have another look for the evo-stik glue.. the first time, I only found a woodworking glue in a blue bottle...

Is this the stuff?  http://www.bostik.co.uk/diy/product/evo-stik/serious-stuff-wet-grab

The shaft is only about 2.5mm dia so drilling a 1.5mm hole through it might be difficult.
Logged

malcolmfrary

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5,551
  • Location: Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #37 on: October 04, 2010, 04:32:19 PM »

Thats the stuff.  Works well as a motor mount fixing, as well.  Leaves a resilient layer to keep sound level due to motor vibration down.  When sticking to smooth plastic surfaces, probably best to abrade them a bit first.
Mine was a 2nd hand one that I refurbished, the original sail servo pulled out in anything more than a very light breeze, then the servo/radio box broke free when its mountings had to stand the much rougher conditions that were then available for sailing in after fitting the higher torque servo, and replacing the battery harness.  Very much a case of fixing one weak link and revealing the next.  For the last year its been a very reliable "take it to the pond and chuck it in and take it for a walk" boat.
For replacement/extra rigging, I prefer some stuff a mate gave me called "Ryobi Salmon Backing".  Its braided, strong, low surface friction and brown, so I can easily tell which I have changed.
Logged
"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #38 on: October 04, 2010, 05:05:49 PM »

Malc, I will get some tomorrow. How long does it take to dry? Any other potential problem I should attend to..

Have you had any problems with the keel  fixing ?.. The top of mine needs reshaping or padding out by about a 1mm as it does not go fully down to the bottom of the hull keel socket.
Logged

malcolmfrary

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5,551
  • Location: Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #39 on: October 04, 2010, 08:08:43 PM »

Grabbing is pretty instant, as you will notice when it goes where it shouldn't.  I would just look at the instructions on the tube before buying for the actual drying time, but like most adhesives, the longer you can give it before trying to move the glued item, the better.
Like I said, mine was a second hand one - I've never had any trouble in that area.  Just as well - the fin doesn't want to come out of the fin box anyway, if I really need to shift it I might have some trouble there.
Anything else?
It did seem to collect some water, this eventually turned out to be a minor leak at the base of the rudder tube (the joys of second hand!).  I had to cut a hatch in the rear deck to get access, give a generous smear of silicone rubber stuff in the affected area, and make a new cover from a bit of styrene sheet, a bit bigger than the hole, fixed with the silicone rubber, in the expectation that should I ever need access again, it will be an easy job to remove it.  It was probably this ingress of water that weakened the original glue.
I fitted a leech line on the jib as well.  It helps keep the jib in shape by completing the triangle formed by the luff line up the front, the boom across the bottom and then the leech at the back.
Logged
"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #40 on: October 04, 2010, 10:14:47 PM »

I have just "modified" my keel fin... it now fits the hull socket better... mine won't seize  :} I know very little about yachts...So I think that I will have to sail mine before I start modify the rigging.

I am on holiday this week so I hope to have it ready for the weekend  :-))..Unless I find anymore bits that don't fit 
Logged

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,004
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #41 on: October 05, 2010, 04:15:33 AM »

Some gluing things related to TT Victoria I discovered.

The radio tray came adrift from inside of the hull, with the servo forces.
I heavily scored the inside of the hull before re-gluing. Fine ever since.

The little white blocks for attaching the shrouds came off.
I re-glued them with same glue. Some came off a second time, and I re-glued. They never moved again.
I think the surface of the plastic needs to be primed with the glue before it can really stick. Perhaps a surface/chemical issue.
But like I said, after a couple of gluings no problem. I have seen people on other websites rush out and get brass fitting to replace the plastic. There really is not need.

The plastic fittings can slide along the boom and mast, as the epoxy may not bite.
I scored the mast a little and used more epoxy, on the side that the plastic will move to.
No problem now.

One more tip.
The knots, as shown in the plan, to tie around the cleats.
These are scale knots. I found they were hard to tie and came loose.
I now use the cleats as clamps, by using the holding screws to clamp the cleat down on the sheets and lines.
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #42 on: October 05, 2010, 09:24:56 AM »

Hi Tiger Thanks for the info.

What glued did you stick the radio Box in with? I'm going to use Plast Weld on the rigging eyelets and hopefully that will work first time. I have heard that CA takes a couple of gluings.

I'm not sure which way the rings move when in use... so I will put a fillet both sides. Thanks for the info on the cleats I will have to find out what sort of knot the serious racers use on their rigging
Logged

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,004
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #43 on: October 05, 2010, 10:04:45 AM »

I stuck the radio tray in with epoxy.

For the rings I used the cement that came with the kit.
It contains acetone.
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #44 on: October 05, 2010, 02:44:46 PM »

The ABS glue supplied in the kit, I have been told by a couple of people, is not very good..So I put mine in the bin..

I had the opportunity to try a couple of Micro Magic Racers this morning at local club(Swanley). Cheers guys. :-)) Aren't boaters nice people.

They were both built by Mike Weston, who lives about 50yrds from the lake! He is one of the top competitors in this class of racing..
Although the wind was very light, you could see the potential....Impressed does not seem a big enough word some how..

So maybe a Micro Magic will be my next purchase...
Logged

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #45 on: October 05, 2010, 07:26:43 PM »

I bought some Evo-stik Serious stuff grab adhesive( Blue Tube as per web photo) today...the the colour of the adhesive on my tube is white and does not seem to glue wood to ABS even if you leave 4hrs to set..It was still tacky and had a grainy feel to it

I would be surprised if my tube glued anything together... maybe they have changed the formula....Not recommend by me :((

In the end I glued the Radio box in with 1hr expoxy after keying the hull. It's not a 100% perfect fit but on a curved hull its probably as good as it going to be...
Logged

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #46 on: October 08, 2010, 05:55:03 PM »

 This stuff glues wood to ABS really well.... http://www.servoshop.co.uk/index.php?pid=ZAPPT12&area=ACCS....

The line suppled for the rigging is terrible soon as you cut it..... it unravels... I have spent about 4 hrs today on the masts and rigging and it's still only about half way there..A Sunday maiden voyage is not looking likely now :((  

Who knows how a beginner would cope building this kit...I suppose you could have ignored the issues I found with the keel and rudder but the rigging is not easy..Admittedly this is my first yacht... but I have modeled most type of model airplanes for more years than I care to think about..
Logged

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,004
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #47 on: October 09, 2010, 01:15:26 AM »

The line is fine if you follow the instructions in the book.

Put a drop of CA where you want to cut, and it gets drawn in to the line.
Then slash cut the line, this gives a needle like point to aid threading.

I CA and slash cut all my lines, even the ones that do not unravel, makes threading easier.


This was my first boat, in fact my first non-arifix type model, and I managed OK. But I followed the instruction book, religiously, as many beginners do.
The rigging is not 'difficult' it is just 'complicated'.
The tips I found out about (and mentioned in my posts above) were discovered when fixing things after a few days/weeks sailing.
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

Dekan

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #48 on: October 09, 2010, 08:27:01 AM »

Hi tiger. I have been doing that..... but some of the holes in the mast components are very small.... Did you enlarge any of them? ...I am following the manual to the letter but I still find it tough to rig.

Whats the purpose of the jumper line at the top of the mast?

Maybe building lots of "toy planes" :} isn't much help when building rc yachts...Theres a web site saying 3-4hrs to build the Victoria.... %%
Logged

BeefyJed

  • Guest
Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #49 on: October 09, 2010, 10:07:35 AM »

Some the rigging is really awkward, but I used a needle threader until I broke them all.

I now use a strand of wire from a multi strand cable, and melt the end of the line slightly with a lighter after cutting.

The jumper line serves no purpose, I removed mine.

Probably take 3-4 hrs if you've built one before.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4   Go Up