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Author Topic: TT Victoria  (Read 14898 times)

Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #50 on: October 09, 2010, 10:44:36 AM »

I founds using a needle helps a lot..I now have the mast mounted on the hull..I have just the sails to fit and and the sail arm throws to sort out.... {-)

I still find it had to believe that you could build one in 3-4hrs even if you didn't count glue drying time...
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tigertiger

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #51 on: October 09, 2010, 01:15:03 PM »


I now use a strand of wire from a multi strand cable, and melt the end of the line slightly with a lighter after cutting.

The jumper line serves no purpose, I removed mine.
.

I used strand of copper from mutlistrand too.

And yes the spreader lines are decorative only.



I didn't enlarge any holes in the bowsies, but I did ream the holes to clean them.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #52 on: October 09, 2010, 04:14:16 PM »

Almost finished (I have left the decals and sail stiffeners off... I can fit them later) I just need to glue the rings to the jib and main boom... I will probably just put a spot of CA on them in case I need to move them later.

Is it worth checking for water leaks?
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #53 on: October 09, 2010, 06:33:27 PM »

I sat the Vic in a bath for 45mins no leaks found, but it lists to starboard by about 5 degrees ... So weather permitting she will have her maiden voyage tomorrow.

I will try and takes some pictures.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #54 on: October 10, 2010, 05:20:41 PM »

I forgot the camera... but the Vic had rigging problems anyway.

The jib rattled against the mast and the main did not seem to fill properly, as the sail rings caused the sail edge to bind on the mast and main boom, which prevented the main sail taking up a good shape...

I have fixed the jib problem, but I still have to sort out the rings binding, I may have to ditch them, as most of the other Vics I have seen just to use loops of cord  

  
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tigertiger

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #55 on: October 11, 2010, 01:00:16 PM »

If your kiciking strap is too tight it will stop the boom from swinging..

Tighten the adjuster at the top of the gib, this will pull the line at the foot of the jib boom tight, and the boom will shift forwards.
Or it could be that the jib boom is too high, adjust the line that connects the jib boom to the deck.


It is all about tuning your rigging now.
The basic geometry design is correct, honest.

If you start being radical you can find you magnify a non-existant problem. Then you tweek that, etc, etc.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #56 on: October 11, 2010, 03:25:31 PM »

Hi Tiger, I have sorted the jib out pretty much along the lines you have suggested..it's the main that giving me trouble now. The luff rings seem that little bit to small..crushing the the front edge of the sail against the mast... 
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #57 on: October 11, 2010, 06:33:16 PM »

Mine too - doesn't seem to make ant difference.  Cord loops do work very well, though.  It could be that the distance from the edge of the sail to the eyelet differs between examples.  I agree with tiger about keeping to the instructions as far as possible - they do work and keep you from trying to mend something that isn't broken.  The purpose of the kicking strap is not to force the boom down, but to prevent it lifting while allowing it to swing out when the line is let out, and if its tweaked too tight, it will prevent the boom from swinging in light wind.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #58 on: October 11, 2010, 06:48:11 PM »

Its going to be tested again tomorrow  :-)).... so I hope the the work I have done does the job...I must remember to take the camera this time.. :D
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #59 on: October 12, 2010, 02:12:26 PM »

The Vic sailed a lot better today. :-)) The jib is is still not working as well as it could.... it needs more work.

 
 
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #60 on: October 12, 2010, 03:13:08 PM »

The length of line between jib boom and deck should be 12mm according to the instructions I downloaded for mine.  Yours looks to be rather more.  Shortening the bit of string at the bottom will involve lengthening the bit at the top to avoid excessive mast movement.  This will cause the sail to be moved forward a bit, and will help clearances.
Rule of the road here is that the leading edge should be straight.  This is achieved by tensioning the luff line that runs up the leading edge hem.  This has the side effect of pulling the front end of the jib up, thus doing its best to pull the other end down in the manner of a see-saw.  In its turn, this places the rear edge of the sail under tension, which is not really wanted as it spoils the sail shape, and why I suggested fitting a leech line to support the back end of the jib boom.
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tigertiger

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #61 on: October 12, 2010, 03:39:15 PM »

If the rings are a bit tight, mine were, it will not really affect the performance as the wind will 'blow the sail out'. 
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #62 on: October 12, 2010, 04:06:44 PM »

I have reduced the height of the jib boom at its pivot point to an i" above the deck.... 12mm seem very low, I assumed that it was a misprint.

Where would you anchor the top of the leech line to?

I replaced the luff rings with loops of cord
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tigertiger

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #63 on: October 12, 2010, 04:28:15 PM »

12mm is fine

Luff rings are fine
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #64 on: October 12, 2010, 07:26:48 PM »

Ok I will try 12mm
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tigertiger

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #65 on: October 13, 2010, 03:31:14 AM »

My luff rings are still tight after several years.

However, with the sail pulled only to one side the sail sits flat and smoothly against one side of the mast. It does not affect the sailing.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #66 on: October 13, 2010, 11:53:00 AM »

Quote
Where would you anchor the top of the leech line to?
This is an area where I deviated a bit from the instructions (page 13, fig 30).  I added a round 4 hole bowsie (or, to use technical term, a shirt button) to the luff line between the top of the sail and the hole where it goes through the spreader.  (2 holes) The top of the sail fixes to this (3rd hole), and the sail tensions against the luff line, which is effectively the forestay.  I took the leech line from that (4th hole) down to the boom, with another bowsie to allow adjustment, looping through the eyelet and back up to the bowsie.  Effectively, the entire sail assembly is now the forestay.

The 12mm is no misprint.  With the boom fittings spaced as per the manual, it becomes critical to keeping the clearance between the back edge of the sail and the mast.  It also gives the optimum slot between jib and main for running close hauled.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #67 on: October 13, 2010, 05:00:37 PM »

I lowered the jib boom to 12mm above the deck...It just looks wrong.. there is only about 2mm between the deck eyelet and the boom ring...Which if you build as per manual does not leave enough room for the rigging snap to work properly...

I will try it like that... but on most pictures,videos and Vic I have seen, the boom is roughly the same height as the main boom (2.25")...This fits with most yacht rigging info I have been told or read ....The picture on the front of the instructions shows the jib boom set higher than the main.....     
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #68 on: October 13, 2010, 10:26:07 PM »

I was always a bit uncertain about the snap - but mine just sits brushing the deck when close hauled and leaves the boom with about the right amount of offset so I never bothered to question it.  I didn't build mine, I just bought it second hand and got the manual to sort out bits that didn't seem right that the previous owner had left to get it working to my satisfaction. 
It was quite possible that with the rigging looking like badly hung washing, that the resulting lack of performance was the reason it was being sold.  On the other hand, all the bits of string might have been just thrown on to show that they were there to ensure a sale.  Looking at the strange and unlikely places that epoxy had been applied, or allowed to run to, I suspect the former.  Reading the instructions and following them transformed it from a plastic log into a good performer.
Q  Is your pivot line tied to the deck eye?  Mine goes from the boom fitting, through the deck Eye and back to the starboard cleat by the mast, where it is made off.  I took the 12mm to be the length of string from fitting to deck eye.  Should I feel the need to change things, I will use tiger's tip of clamping the line under the cleat.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #69 on: October 14, 2010, 08:34:39 AM »

I took the 1.5cm shown on my manual to mean the distance between the deck and the bottom of the boom..
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #70 on: October 14, 2010, 10:34:44 AM »

Page 15, fig 33 refers.  There should not be a snap between the forward boom fitting and the line going to the deck fitting.  It should just be boom fitting, line through deck fitting, then back to the cleat.
The running line should through its deck fitting, through the snap on the rear jib boom fitting, then via the adjusting bowsie to terminate at a snap in the forward boom fitting.  These two alterations will allow the correct height and close hauling, as opposed to the arrangement in your picture.
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tolnedra

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #71 on: October 14, 2010, 02:52:36 PM »

I concur with Malcolm's description of the jib boom arrangement, that's how mine is fixed up too. I bought my kit from a well-known 'yottie' who also made sails for model yachts, called Brian Wiles. Sadly he has passed away now, but I purchased a set of sails as well as the kit from him, all work superbly. He also advocated using ties for the mainsail as opposed to the supplied rings, all of which I heeded, and have had no regrets. (I still couldn't sail my 'Vic' as well as Brian sailed his though!)

Danny
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #72 on: October 14, 2010, 05:17:43 PM »

Sorry, but I cant see what difference it makes running the line to the jib front boom ring from the cleat, other than the height of the boom is adjustable without having to replace the front loop cord...

The two clip jib line does provide for a slightly larger bowsie adjustment range. As to it having any affect on the height of the rear of the boom, I don't see how there can be any difference .
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malcolmfrary

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #73 on: October 14, 2010, 06:12:51 PM »

When it is actually rigged according to the instructions, it will work as intended.  Ad-lib rigging, unless you know more than the designer, or are very lucky, will not.
The changes that I made to mine followed several years' experience involving designing and sailing my own, observing others, and listening carefully to advice.
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Dekan

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Re: TT Victoria
« Reply #74 on: October 14, 2010, 06:37:39 PM »

Malcolm, If I have problems I will put it back to standard..  :-))But I only copied the best sailing Vic I have seem  8)
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