Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: materials  (Read 3795 times)

CaptVos

  • Guest
materials
« on: July 25, 2010, 07:35:25 pm »

hey guys getting ready to start my build of the Aunt Mary a twin screw river pusher off the mississippi!!! but i wondering after going to hobby lobby and looking at wood what thickness should i use? im at a loss..........also as for the glue they sell glue used for wood models but i dont know if that stuff is any good, i used the same brand when i did static models but it was the plastic use version, any suggestions?




CaptVos

p.s. the build will begin tuesday afternoon when i get back from the coast so expect pictures!!!!
Logged

destroyer42

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 332
  • Model Boat Mayhem Forum is the Best!
  • Location: Southend-on-Sea Essex U.K
Re: materials
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2010, 08:09:00 pm »

Hi CaptVos,
I built my towboat 1/32 scale using 6mm ply for the frames and hull sides 2mm birch ply for the underside as i needed it to be pliable because of all the compound curves underneath as I constructed it just like the real thing. The superstructure is 3mm plasticard.
Regards
Destroyer42



Logged

destroyer42

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 332
  • Model Boat Mayhem Forum is the Best!
  • Location: Southend-on-Sea Essex U.K
Re: materials
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2010, 08:12:47 pm »

Hi CaptVos,
Forgot to mention I used alphtic resin wood glue its waterproof. Also the hull was fiberglassed.





Logged

malcolmfrary

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6,027
  • Location: Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Re: materials
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2010, 08:14:02 pm »

If you haven't already found it, have a look at
http://www.towboatjoe.com/
where there is lots of useful stuff.
I have built some of my slab-sided boats from 1/8" ply offcuts from the hardware shop, with epoxy resin glue from the same place.  Not everything used in a hobby has to come from a hobby shop.
Logged
"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

CaptVos

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2010, 05:17:30 pm »

ok gotcha sounds good, i was just really hesitant to start this thing using some kinda glue that wouldnt work and the boat comes apart in the water! :} but i do appreciate the information, where can i get plasticard? also i saw that a guy on here i cant remember who wrapped his motors in copper tubing and put a pump to it and ran water through the tubing to cool the motors? and also electric fans to vent the hot air from the engine room and interior?



CaptVos
Logged

CaptVos

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2010, 02:03:59 am »

ok guys the hull has been completed and she is indeed water tight!!!! im beggining the super structure very soon and pictures of the hull will be up shortly, also do you guys think it is smart to paint the hull before installing the drive shafts and props or after? im having trouble deciding i think either way it will work. and any ideas for motors and electronics? and what size props? she is 18" long 8" beam and a 4" draft





CaptVos
Logged

derekwarner

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,463
  • Location: Wollongong Australia
Re: materials
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2010, 03:24:28 am »

CaptVos asks............do you guys think it is smart to paint the hull before installing the drive shafts and props or after?

Well ....100%  O0 yes to seal the hull internals at the earliest time after completing the internal hull building........but do you mean the internal or external hull surface?

If she is water tight I assumed that the hull externals were sealed & painted .........Derek
Logged
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

CaptVos

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2010, 05:08:53 am »

ok well the reason im asking is that the internals were sealing and good she is water tight, but that does answer my questions im trying to use contour putty to make it smooth and sanding the hull! its ok for my first build ill post pics for yall, electronics suggestions? i feel like such a noob for asking this
Logged

CaptVos

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2010, 05:40:02 am »

the hull...



Logged

geoff p

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2010, 03:21:13 pm »

CaptVos,
You mentioned water-cooling by wrapping pipes around the motor.
These are the pictures :
The copper tube on its own makes only line-contact with the motor and won't carry-off much heat.  The sheet brass carries heat from the motor via solder, to the tubing.

Soften the tube, then bend it around your thumb to get gentle curves.
Soft solder to brass shim and use LOTS of solder.


Slaster some silicon (heatsink) grease on the motor for a good thermal contact.



Bind it tightly to the motor, attach water-supply and go, go, go.

For the water pump, I'll suggest my write-up on my website http://www.purpletiger.com/geoff/model_boats/mistral/cooling_pump.MkII.html   This basically shows how I modified an aquarium air pump into a general-purpose water pump.
Logged

CaptVos

  • Guest
Re: materials
« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2010, 05:15:11 pm »

that is very interesting, but for some reason im thinking its not very effective? or is it? i was just thinking about installing duct work or something on my tug to vent the hot air out of scale locations on the super structure. but i still may give this a go just out of curiosity.  preciate the info updates are coming!





CaptVos
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.102 seconds with 22 queries.