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Author Topic: Coaming  (Read 1406 times)

Dekan

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Coaming
« on: July 31, 2010, 08:45:20 AM »

How would you make hatch coaming on a sheet ply Cabin Cruiser ?
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tobyker

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2010, 05:47:09 PM »

cut hole in deck
glue 1/4" strip under deck, outer edge level with deck edge
glue 3/4" wide thin ply verticaly to strip to give 1/2" coaming over deck
build superstructure to fit coaming.

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ministeve

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2010, 09:47:55 PM »

here here

me too  :-))
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2010, 10:58:04 PM »

Like this.

Peter.
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malcolmfrary

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2010, 09:05:56 PM »

Near enough, but you do get away with a small coaming on a large model with plenty of freeboard.  A small model or one with low freeboard benefits from a taller coaming if one can be fitted.  If it impinges on a window, it needs to be clear, at least in the window area.  It should also go without saying that the coaming, to be effective, has to be continuous all round the hole, otherwise its just a handy way to discourage the superstructure from being blown sideways.
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"With the right tool, you can break anything" - Garfield

Colin Bishop

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2010, 10:43:27 PM »

Never rely on a coaming to keep the superstructure in place, I've seen too many part company in rough conditions - often resulting in a sinking. Always have some sort of mechanical fixing such as a horizontal pin passing through both superstructure base and coaming.

Colin
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Peter Fitness

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Re: Coaming
« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2010, 11:51:28 PM »

Good points from both Malcolm and Colin. I, too, have seen superstructures blown off models - it happened to me once  :embarrassed:

In my experience, the height of the coaming is not critical, unless you are operating in North Atlantic type conditions  :o, even 12mm will keep water out, as long as it's continuous, and the superstructure is a neat fit over the coaming.

Peter.
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