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[Black Shoe]

I was fortunate enough to acquire a built "Amsterdam". The construction was done well, and the motor, shaft, screw, rudder, and rudder servo are still installed. Although the model could be freshened, and would look just fine, I'm inclined to modify the superstructure to create an entirely different tug. I'm not locked into the as-built school of thought, and although some may think this is sacrilege, (my apologies,) I was just wondering if any one else has built a different tug on "Amsterdams" hull? I wouldn't even mind if the scale changed, so long as the hull and deckhouse worked together.

Has anyone done this? Any photo's available?

Thank you!

[Black Shoe]

Well, gents, I couldn't stand it any more. First, here's my rationale; "Amsterdam" in the built kit that I acquired has one screw, one main motor, but two lofty stacks, fire fighting monitors, and some less than attractive life boats. It is a nice looking tug, but being a kit built bone stock, it's like an awful lot of other tugs out there.
I bought the RC parts I needed, ie 6 channel radio, (over-kill, but it'll operate more than one model, and I want to add a lot of effects to my "new" tug,) speed control, reciever, battery, and a couple FX on the way.

My first modification has been to eliminate the 01 deck, I intend to drop the pilot house to the top of the main deck house. A large single funnel will follow, with a couple of less futuristic masts. The main deck spray shield will be lowered slightly, lengthened, and the terminal end will have a concave curve, as opposed to the current convex curve. I realize the pilot house combing is convex, but we'll see how it goes. There's several more ideas rattling around in my head, but we'll see how this phase goes before I get too carried away.

[oldiron]

Interesting rebuild. It gives it a more "hunkered down" look. I'd do something with those anchors too. They were never right on the kit. Most people built them in "as kit" form, and they looked silly poking straight out the side rather than hanging down inside a pocket. A good size towing winch on the stern could help too.

John

[Black Shoe]

Thank you John.
I agree with the "hunkered down" look, which is some of the "attitude" I am going for. I also agree the anchors should be in pockets. Hanging out, they're just can openers ready to open up another ship, or snag a dock somewhere.
One of the things spinning around in my head is clearing the after deck of the structure, putting up another tow-line bow, and creating some interest with (as you said) a big winch, and some interesting deck gear under a slightly extended over hang. Cutting torches, a couple of lockers, some wire straps, come-alongs, a couple of drums, etc.

Regards,
Tim

[TugChief]

Hi John,

I had one of these a while back and it was a dog of a thing to drive.  I would recommend the following; Bow thruster fitted.  New ruder fitted, Becker, fish tail or even a steerable nozzle. The aft engine room casing is removed and the deck sealed as mine shipped a lot of water if ballasted down to the correct marks.

Do like the new 'low profile 'look though.  Very nice.

Darren.

[oldiron]

 Years ago a friend of mine built one and it had a bow thruster. Worked great. At the time mine had the standard model design rudder, wholly inadequate. Since mine was already running I didn't want to pull everything apart for a refit. However, I doubled the surface area of the rudder. Made a world of difference.
  Mine has a low aft freeboard and gets water over the deck, however, never had trouble with it getting in the "engine room". I have a coming around the opening that goes up into the engine room cover. Seems to keep things dry. by the way, the engine room cover is about a foot too high to be scale anyway.
  I've included a shot of Malabar's steerable Kort nozzle. It was built to the same design as "Amsterdam". I've also included a picture of the rudder on my
"Amsterdam". You should be able to se the extension aft with extra bracing on it.

John

[oldiron]

Below is Malabar's steerable Kort nozzle.

John

[bill somerville]

Hello iam a new member and have just received my Amsterdam tug. i have mostly build complete wood boats and have never built a boat with a pre formed hull. i have noticed that the bulkheads  do not fit the hull perfectly. has anyone else found this and what action was taken ? i typically use ca glue but was going to glass bulkheads in to position. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[oldiron]

Hello iam a new member and have just received my Amsterdam tug. i have mostly build complete wood boats and have never built a boat with a pre formed hull. i have noticed that the bulkheads  do not fit the hull perfectly. has anyone else found this and what action was taken ? i typically use ca glue but was going to glass bulkheads in to position. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 Bill:
 Welcome aboard. The pre formed hulls that now come with the Amsterdam kit have a degree of flexibly in them. I would expect the provided ribs would be correct and the hull would need to be tweeked a bit to fit the ribs. That said, some one on RC Groups bult this version of the model and they ran into the same problem with the forward ribs being a little to wide. That being the case snad/file the shape to a reduced dimension unti the fit properly.
 I've used ABS plastic plumbers cement available form such places as Canadian Tire to fasten wood to these types of hulls. I'm not sure if fiberglass would adhere well enough for reliability.

John

[bill somerville]

thanks for the advice i will give that a try

[bill somerville]

John i did see in the instructions that is said to use silicon along the bulk heads in the hull . i never thought of using silicon as an adhesive but maybe thats the way to go .

[oldiron]

John i did see in the instructions that is said to use silicon along the bulk heads in the hull . i never thought of using silicon as an adhesive but maybe thats the way to go .

  I can't say. Mine is an older version of the Amsterdam that used plank on frame construction. Could be right.

John